You just don't want to drive in high water like that, for several reasons.
No dissent here. After that incident, I know of one street I won't take in a rainstorm. It's a challenge finding a road that doesn't take on a lot of water here, but I'm better off now than when I was in a sedan. I don't intentionally seek a puddle, but sometimes you end up in one...
I have Amica. I expected that my rates would go up, but they just didn't. They've dropped slightly over time. One of the accidents was my fault (I ran into a post in a parking garage) and the other was not (I was rear-ended). It's a mystery to me why it didn't go up, especially after the garage one.
Cool. I guess the first time you were under whatever threshold they use for claims before they bump the rates up.
If the 2nd was not your fault, then that would be expected. The other guy's insurance would cover it, and his rates would be the ones potentially affected.
I'm a magnet for that - my Miata was side-swiped by a brand-new Saab with temporary tags, then my Forester was rear-ended by a Saturn with no ABS on a rainy day. Before that, my Escort was hit 3 times, the 3rd actually totalled it. :sick:
None of those ever affected my rates, because I was not at fault.
My son has a 2004 CR-V and changed to Nokian winter tires and says they are the best he ever had. He lives in Northern Michigan where snow is an issue. He has them on separate wheels and puts them on in the winter. I checked my "Discount Tire Store" and they said they can get them. They also said those were about the best you can buy. I had a 2000 CR-V and installed B.F. Goodrich Precepts all weather tires. They were far superior to the horrible OEM Bridgestone Duelers that came on the car. I will probably put Precepts on my 2004 when I require tires. It's a tough decision----too many choices. Good luck.
My CR-V with less then 5K has been to the dealer 6 times. First it was a high speed shimmy at 75 then it was OK at 80.
After two new tires, repeated balance of all wheels and checks by the dealer and district rep. it now wanders and pulls to the right. This makes it difficult to drive, but it does not shimmy anymore.
Back to the dealer next week for more evaluation and hopefully repair.
Has anyone else experienced this type of problem.
This is my third CR-V, 1998 and 2001 were perfect.
I've been posting this question all over the forum.... I just bought an 06 EX but found there's not a comfortable position to put my left foot. I believe this should be a common problem yet seems there's not much discussion on this. What do you guys do to solve this problem?
Perhaps it is not a common problem, as you allege, but just a personal quirk. I've been following this thread for a long time and never saw this. Frankly, I think you just need to get used to it as it's NOT a common "problem" at all.
Head down to the basement, grab a chunk of hardwood, start up the bandsaw, and sharpen your carving tools. Once you have a dead pedal shaped the way you like it, post pictures and installation instructions for everyone else.
I think the reason why you see little discussion on the subject is because there isn't really a "fix" for it. That's just the way the floor is shaped.
Sit inside and the first thing you notice is the impressive use of space. The front passenger seat could use more leg room, but the back seat is positively limo-like. Two 7 footers would be happy in that back seat, more so than the front seat, actually. No dead pedal for the driver, though at least it seems to have more room than the front passenger seat (I'm 6' and could not get comfy there when my wife drove).
My theory? People aren't driving them aggressively enough to require a foot on a dead pedal to hold them firmly in their seats. Even so, it would be nice to have a angled plane to rest your foot.
I took my new EX to a local Tire Kingdom store and asked if they have quieter tires. The store manager said the Duell (not sure about the spelling) tires that come with the car are already considered quiet tires. But I read in this forum some people talking about reducing the road noise by replacing with new tires and stuff, so, what are the tires you guys replaced with?
I am moving to the mountains of Colorado where there will frequently be heavy snow. Consequently, I am trading my accord for a 4-wheel drive vehicle. I am strongly considering the CR-V but have not been able to find any info about how it handles in snowy conditions. If anyone has any experience in this regard, I would appreciate some feedback before I make the purchase. If I don't get a CRV, I will probably get a Subaru Outback. Thanks.
Or maybe you had another 'V prior. If so, I would think the seating position of the 2G is different (at least a little). Perhaps you don't like either model's seating.
I drive a 1999 CR-V EX with RT4WD. In the six years I've owned the CR-V I spent three living in Rochester, NY (lots of snow), and three living in Indianapolis (not as much snow, but colder temps and more ice).
The CR-V handles very well in the snow. If snow is on the ground constantly where you'll be living in Colorado during the entire winter (not true of either Rochester or Indy) then I'd suggest getting winter tires, as they will handle much better than any all-season tires. Look around for a set of steel wheels from an LX for your winter tires. The dealer might even have a set they pulled from an LX that the owner upgraded to alloys. They might even sell them to you fairly cheaply.
Did you look at any Subaru before getting teh CRV EX. I am comparing the CRV EX to Subaru and other 4wd vehicles and will be doing lots of snow driving, some into Albany/Amherst area where there is also lots of snow. I am trying to see which is better and if used would be preferabe just for winter. I am now driving an old manual Integra with plenty of miles and all season performance tires. Love the steering on the Integra and have test driven the subaru forester and outback, but not the crv yet. willing to look at others with stability control in that price range.
We live in Central New York and have a 2002 CR-V. It works great out here. We live at the top of a hill on a street that is the last to get plowed and we can always get up and down the street.
We bought the Yokohama(sp?) avid touring tires from Tirerack. They made a big difference in road noise but after about 40,000 miles the car is a bit noisy again. They are great in the snow and they seem to be a good value. I think they were $8 less per tire when we bought them than the deullers (sp?). rich
Did you look at any Subaru before getting teh CRV EX.
I did not. Years and years ago I owned a Subaru Brat and liked it, but probably won't buy another Subaru. Before the CR-V I drove a Geo Tracker 4WD (a very poor purchase decision).
A fulltime 4WD or AWD system will probably perform better in slippery conditions than the RT4WD system in the CR-V, because all four wheels get power all the time. Unless you're looking for a winter-only vehicle you should be considering other aspects, not just the handling in poor conditions. And the CR-V does very well in slippery conditions like snow, ice, and rain.
Subaru has come a loooong way from the BRAT. Back then it was rusty panels and full-locking 4WD with low range. Now it's double-galvanized steel or even aluminum and permanent AWD in a much more refined package.
But you can still count on them in the snow. Many models have heated seats, mirrors, wiper de-icers, limited-slip differentials, and weather band on the radio.
Honda offers most of those, but not all, and they limit heated seats to the SE model.
My Son who lives in N.Michigan where there is plenty of snow, has a '04 Subaru Baja and a '04 CR-V. Even after installing special Nokian winter tires on the V, the Baja is much better in the snow and ice. Like you said, I think it is the Baja's full time AWD vs. the V that transfers the power to the back when needed. Hope this helps. George
The reasons I probably wouldn't buy a Subaru in the future has more to do with interior space then with mechanics.
The Brat was a fun car to drive and did great on ski trips and rock climbing trips to Joshua Tree (I lived in S. California at the time). It was totaled in an accident, and the design of the spare tire mounted in the engine compartment above the engine probably helped to save my life.
The Geo Tracker was also fun to drive and did great in the snow, including getting me safely through a June blizzard in Bear Tooth Pass in Wyoming, but mechanically it was a piece of junk.
Sorry to hear about your luck with the Geo. I thought CR rated them fairly well for reliability?
Mine was a 1991 that fried it's ECU in 1998 with about 80,000 miles on it (which also took out the fuel injection system). That was after a history of problems, including a new clutch with less than 40,000 miles which was caused by a defective clutch cable. The dealer replaced the clutch, but not the cable, which means I was back at 65,000 for another clutch at which time they told me the cable had a recall and was being replaced, too.
The Tracker/Sidekick was redesigned in 1999. Even the 1999's are showing some "Fair" categories at this point, and a number of "Good" (average). They did rate the 2002 as "Reliable", but not the 2001 or 2003, which are basically the same.
Compare that to the Honda CR-V, which for 1997 thru 2004 models has a single Good rating (1998 - paint/trim/rust), and everything else Very Good or Excellent for all years. The CR-V also has a "Reliable" rating for all years.
"I am strongly considering the CR-V but have not been able to find any info about how it handles in snowy conditions. "
I own a 2003 CR-V, and comparison shopped the Subaru Forester. I have driven the CR-V in heavy mud and also in snow and ice conditions. It does fine. You always have to remember, with any vehicle, to slow down, drive carefully, and anticipate the starts and stops in cold conditions.
That said, the Subaru is clearly the better vehicle in snow. It has full time AWD, and limited slip differentials. The CR-V does not have LSD (the mechanical, not the drug!). The important thing to remember is to not depend upon the technology - your brain is the best driving technology in any vehicle.
The Subaru is too small for me. Others have a different opinion. Test drive both, and be sure and bring the family to ensure there is enough room for all.
I am considering purchasing a Honda CR-V for light towing (3 comfort (i.e. heavy) bicycles on a hitch bike rack) and cargo space. I would prefer to buy the 2WD because it gets better gas mileage. I won't drive off-road but I do live in a Chicago suburb so I'll be driving on slick roads during the winter. I'm not worried about deep snow because the roads are usually plowed. (I have yet to have any problems on winter roads with my Civic.) Am I making a mistake by not getting the 4WD? Has anybody had experience driving the 2wd on roads with ice, snow and sludge?
It's fine to look at holdback and the price of accessories at various web sellers, but instead of bogging down in percentage mark-ups for various options when you do your deal, you may want to focus instead on your out the door price.
That way you're just negotiating one number instead of half a dozen.
...but if someone would have a solid idea on how low each item (...base; splashguards; cargocover; armrest...)has been reasonable I could have a specific starting floor to begin at. The MSRP's would obviously be the ceiling of the range to work with.
And what about those Fees ??? What would be fair ??? (assuming they were 99% profit to the dealer)
This website, Edmunds.com, has information on invoice price on the vehicle. The link at the top of the page to H and A Accessories (http://www.handaaccessories.com/) will give you an idea of how cheap you can get the accessories you want for your CR-V. Also remember that the prices probably do not include installation charges, which can be expensive.
Tax, Title, and license fees depend on where you live. They're usually not negotiable. The destination charge is not negotiable. "Documentation" fees also vary, and are sometimes negotiable. Any other fees are profit for the dealership and you should refuse to pay them.
Hello guys! I plan to buy 2006 CRV soon and will buy all the accessories I need from handa-accessories.com since they are much cheaper even after the shipping cost (I choose ground shiiping)included. My question, can dealers play with the installation price? I just called 2 dealers and ask them for the accessories installation price and I got different price for each accessory :confuse: . Where I can get a good information about how much I should pay for each accessory? I'm excited to get a new car, but the homework is really overwhelmed me. Any help would be appreciated.
Where I can get a good information about how much I should pay for each accessory?
The installation charge is all labor, so it may vary from dealer to dealer. H and A Accessories also provides links to the install instructions. Many accessories are easy to install. Download the install instructions and decide which you feel comfortable installing, and which you think are more than you can handle.
When I bought my 1999 CR-V I got the accessories for cost and installed for free. I purchased the CR-V through a buyers plan offered by the Credit Union where I bank that allows you to deal directly with the Fleet Salesperson. I paid about 1/2 way between invoice and MSRP (there were waiting lists in 1999 for the CR-V, especially the 5 speed manual transmission and "Hoosier" red here in Indiana).
We finally had a little snow here in Denver, so I was able to test how my CR-V (2005 EX, Auto, AWD) handles in it. It did fine on the ride home, and then I took it to an empty parking lot to see what its limits were. (I'm a very conservative driver on the streets.)
I was able to kick in the ABS pretty easily, though it hadn't happened on the drive home. I spent a lot of time driving the car pretty fast (for a parking lot) and then making a sharp turn. Every time, something else kicked in - either the stability or traction control - and it really did keep the car right on track, pointed where it was supposed to go. (I could tell it kicked in because it comes with a heavy pulsing, like ABS except not in the brake pedal.) What a great car. I wasn't able to make it do anything dangerous at all.
(Note: I wasn't driving 45 or 50 miles an hour or anything. But I don't commute on the highway, so this was a completely adequate test for the snow driving conditions I generally face. I was doing turns in the parking lot much faster than I would normally do them even on dry pavement.)
I was able to kick in the ABS pretty easily, though it hadn't happened on the drive home. I spent a lot of time driving the car pretty fast (for a parking lot) and then making a sharp turn. Every time, something else kicked in - either the stability or traction control - and it really did keep the car right on track, pointed where it was supposed to go. (I could tell it kicked in because it comes with a heavy pulsing, like ABS except not in the brake pedal.) What a great car. I wasn't able to make it do anything dangerous at all.
I noticed VSC applying brakes when wheels lock up in a turn without applying brakes. If you turn off the VSC, turn the wheel to one side and stomp on the gas, the car will do doughnuts like a true RWD :-) With a little bit of coaxing, I was able to send it into a 4-wheel power slide. FUN!!!
Well, until today, I was content with my FWD, which I bought for two reasons: 1. I am cheap; and 2. I rarely drive in snow that is heavier than a few inches on the road, and as you note, they are usually plowed.
Today was different. Here north of Boston, we had a storm that intensified into a thunder blizzard for about 90 minutes just as we all had to get to schools to pick up kids (it was unexpected, and schools were open).
Snow came down about 5 inches on top of a previous 5 inches within about 90 minutes, so there was about 8-10 inches on the roads (somebody decided to wait until it ended to plow).
I had real a tough time. The traction control kicked in even when crossing ridges of snow at intersections; hills were impossible (it was wet and icey underneath).
So today, at least, I regretted not getting 4WD.
But a question: is 4WD really going to move smoothly through 10 inch snow or so, and even up hills?
I am cheap too. That being said, with all due respect, you were foolish to buy a vehicle known primarly for all wheel drive in a 2WD version IN BOSTON!!!!! What were you thinking? I live in Pittsburgh and here you have to special order the 2WD CR-Vs (and Explorers and everything else...dealers can't sell 2WD versions so none stock any). This was clearly a case of being penny wise and pound foolish. Particularly since CR-V IS the way to get AWD on the cheap! It and Subaru and RAV4 ARE the efficient AWD vehicles.
I live in Pittsburgh...similar to Boston with bad winters and steep hills...and my new '05 CR-V SE was a champ yesterday in the storm. A champ. Right up my steep driveway...vroom!
It's tough to sell a fairly new vehicle. I guess you're stuck for at least a while but I'd plan to make the switch to AWD soon in Boston.
Comments
No dissent here. After that incident, I know of one street I won't take in a rainstorm. It's a challenge finding a road that doesn't take on a lot of water here, but I'm better off now than when I was in a sedan. I don't intentionally seek a puddle, but sometimes you end up in one...
I just watched one of those "Amazing Videos" shows where the cars get washed away. :surprise:
-juice
Anybody help this fella out?
If the 2nd was not your fault, then that would be expected. The other guy's insurance would cover it, and his rates would be the ones potentially affected.
I'm a magnet for that - my Miata was side-swiped by a brand-new Saab with temporary tags, then my Forester was rear-ended by a Saturn with no ABS on a rainy day. Before that, my Escort was hit 3 times, the 3rd actually totalled it. :sick:
None of those ever affected my rates, because I was not at fault.
-juice
They also said those were about the best you can buy.
I had a 2000 CR-V and installed B.F. Goodrich Precepts all weather tires. They were far superior to the horrible OEM
Bridgestone Duelers that came on the car. I will probably put Precepts on my 2004 when I require tires.
It's a tough decision----too many choices.
Good luck.
Thanks for any feedback.
After two new tires, repeated balance of all wheels and checks by the dealer and district rep. it now wanders and pulls to the right. This makes it difficult to drive, but it does not shimmy anymore.
Back to the dealer next week for more evaluation and hopefully repair.
Has anyone else experienced this type of problem.
This is my third CR-V, 1998 and 2001 were perfect.
If you enter PTTR in the "Search Discussion"
you will find many entries that address this.
Good luck.
I think the reason why you see little discussion on the subject is because there isn't really a "fix" for it. That's just the way the floor is shaped.
Yep, found it here:
ateixeira, "The Forums Test Drive Team" #30, 9 Jul 2003 2:42 pm
Excerpt:
Sit inside and the first thing you notice is the impressive use of space. The front passenger seat could use more leg room, but the back seat is positively limo-like. Two 7 footers would be happy in that back seat, more so than the front seat, actually. No dead pedal for the driver, though at least it seems to have more room than the front passenger seat (I'm 6' and could not get comfy there when my wife drove).
My theory? People aren't driving them aggressively enough to require a foot on a dead pedal to hold them firmly in their seats. Even so, it would be nice to have a angled plane to rest your foot.
-juice
Of course, I also think it needs an entirely new seating position.... but, after seven years, I'm used to it..
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Or maybe you had another 'V prior. If so, I would think the seating position of the 2G is different (at least a little). Perhaps you don't like either model's seating.
I'm sure the BF Goodrich tires are more quiet, as they are more passenger-car oriented.
Shop for a touring car tire, meant for quiet travel at high speeds.
-juice
The CR-V handles very well in the snow. If snow is on the ground constantly where you'll be living in Colorado during the entire winter (not true of either Rochester or Indy) then I'd suggest getting winter tires, as they will handle much better than any all-season tires. Look around for a set of steel wheels from an LX for your winter tires. The dealer might even have a set they pulled from an LX that the owner upgraded to alloys. They might even sell them to you fairly cheaply.
Good luck.
And.. strangely enough... I find the seating position almost exactly the same...
But, maybe they are slightly different.. and I just don't like either of them... as you suggest..
I did total the first one... maybe I got a big knock on the head... :surprise:
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
rich
rich
I did not. Years and years ago I owned a Subaru Brat and liked it, but probably won't buy another Subaru. Before the CR-V I drove a Geo Tracker 4WD (a very poor purchase decision).
A fulltime 4WD or AWD system will probably perform better in slippery conditions than the RT4WD system in the CR-V, because all four wheels get power all the time. Unless you're looking for a winter-only vehicle you should be considering other aspects, not just the handling in poor conditions. And the CR-V does very well in slippery conditions like snow, ice, and rain.
JM2C
But you can still count on them in the snow. Many models have heated seats, mirrors, wiper de-icers, limited-slip differentials, and weather band on the radio.
Honda offers most of those, but not all, and they limit heated seats to the SE model.
-juice
Hope this helps.
George
I was there for the Detroit show the last 2 years. NAIAS 05 wasn't that bad, but 04 was so cold I can still feel the chill. Brrr.
If I go this year I'm going to rent a car and really see Detroit, check out the Henry Ford museum and stuff.
Any how, I'm sure a RT4WD model does the trick up there.
-juice
So that's where the one Baja sold in Michigan is!!
-juice
The reasons I probably wouldn't buy a Subaru in the future has more to do with interior space then with mechanics.
The Brat was a fun car to drive and did great on ski trips and rock climbing trips to Joshua Tree (I lived in S. California at the time). It was totaled in an accident, and the design of the spare tire mounted in the engine compartment above the engine probably helped to save my life.
The Geo Tracker was also fun to drive and did great in the snow, including getting me safely through a June blizzard in Bear Tooth Pass in Wyoming, but mechanically it was a piece of junk.
-juice
Mine was a 1991 that fried it's ECU in 1998 with about 80,000 miles on it (which also took out the fuel injection system). That was after a history of problems, including a new clutch with less than 40,000 miles which was caused by a defective clutch cable. The dealer replaced the clutch, but not the cable, which means I was back at 65,000 for another clutch at which time they told me the cable had a recall and was being replaced, too.
The Tracker/Sidekick was redesigned in 1999. Even the 1999's are showing some "Fair" categories at this point, and a number of "Good" (average). They did rate the 2002 as "Reliable", but not the 2001 or 2003, which are basically the same.
Compare that to the Honda CR-V, which for 1997 thru 2004 models has a single Good rating (1998 - paint/trim/rust), and everything else Very Good or Excellent for all years. The CR-V also has a "Reliable" rating for all years.
There's no comparision.
I own a 2003 CR-V, and comparison shopped the Subaru Forester. I have driven the CR-V in heavy mud and also in snow and ice conditions. It does fine. You always have to remember, with any vehicle, to slow down, drive carefully, and anticipate the starts and stops in cold conditions.
That said, the Subaru is clearly the better vehicle in snow. It has full time AWD, and limited slip differentials. The CR-V does not have LSD (the mechanical, not the drug!). The important thing to remember is to not depend upon the technology - your brain is the best driving technology in any vehicle.
The Subaru is too small for me. Others have a different opinion. Test drive both, and be sure and bring the family to ensure there is enough room for all.
Honda website lists the following for MSRP's:
21,595....... base
550......... dest chg
63 ..........splashguards
189 .........cargo area cover
139 .........drivers side armrest/compartment
22536................ total
==========================================
What's the best deal that one can honestly expect the dealership to sell me this vehicle ?
What are the approximate percentage 'mark-ups' for the base... and then also for each option ?
Is there a tool anywhere on the web that would have these percentages for this specific CR-V ?
Of the BS fees (proccessing fee; convience fees; document fees...etc...)what would be a fair amount to have to pay ?
No trade involved.
Any other tips, suggestions, & help is certainly welcome !!!
I thank you, in advance, for your help !!!
It's fine to look at holdback and the price of accessories at various web sellers, but instead of bogging down in percentage mark-ups for various options when you do your deal, you may want to focus instead on your out the door price.
That way you're just negotiating one number instead of half a dozen.
Check out Confessions of a Car Salesman too.
Steve, Host
And what about those Fees ??? What would be fair ??? (assuming they were 99% profit to the dealer)
Thank you & everyone again !!!
Convenience fees? Sorry, it's not convenient for me to open my wallet for junk fees.
Steve, Host
Tax, Title, and license fees depend on where you live. They're usually not negotiable. The destination charge is not negotiable. "Documentation" fees also vary, and are sometimes negotiable. Any other fees are profit for the dealership and you should refuse to pay them.
Good luck.
The installation charge is all labor, so it may vary from dealer to dealer. H and A Accessories also provides links to the install instructions. Many accessories are easy to install. Download the install instructions and decide which you feel comfortable installing, and which you think are more than you can handle.
When I bought my 1999 CR-V I got the accessories for cost and installed for free. I purchased the CR-V through a buyers plan offered by the Credit Union where I bank that allows you to deal directly with the Fleet Salesperson. I paid about 1/2 way between invoice and MSRP (there were waiting lists in 1999 for the CR-V, especially the 5 speed manual transmission and "Hoosier" red here in Indiana).
Good luck.
I was able to kick in the ABS pretty easily, though it hadn't happened on the drive home. I spent a lot of time driving the car pretty fast (for a parking lot) and then making a sharp turn. Every time, something else kicked in - either the stability or traction control - and it really did keep the car right on track, pointed where it was supposed to go. (I could tell it kicked in because it comes with a heavy pulsing, like ABS except not in the brake pedal.) What a great car. I wasn't able to make it do anything dangerous at all.
(Note: I wasn't driving 45 or 50 miles an hour or anything. But I don't commute on the highway, so this was a completely adequate test for the snow driving conditions I generally face. I was doing turns in the parking lot much faster than I would normally do them even on dry pavement.)
I noticed VSC applying brakes when wheels lock up in a turn without applying brakes. If you turn off the VSC, turn the wheel to one side and stomp on the gas, the car will do doughnuts like a true RWD :-) With a little bit of coaxing, I was able to send it into a 4-wheel power slide. FUN!!!
Today was different. Here north of Boston, we had a storm that intensified into a thunder blizzard for about 90 minutes just as we all had to get to schools to pick up kids (it was unexpected, and schools were open).
Snow came down about 5 inches on top of a previous 5 inches within about 90 minutes, so there was about 8-10 inches on the roads (somebody decided to wait until it ended to plow).
I had real a tough time. The traction control kicked in even when crossing ridges of snow at intersections; hills were impossible (it was wet and icey underneath).
So today, at least, I regretted not getting 4WD.
But a question: is 4WD really going to move smoothly through 10 inch snow or so, and even up hills?
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I am cheap too. That being said, with all due respect, you were foolish to buy a vehicle known primarly for all wheel drive in a 2WD version IN BOSTON!!!!! What were you thinking? I live in Pittsburgh and here you have to special order the 2WD CR-Vs (and Explorers and everything else...dealers can't sell 2WD versions so none stock any). This was clearly a case of being penny wise and pound foolish. Particularly since CR-V IS the way to get AWD on the cheap! It and Subaru and RAV4 ARE the efficient AWD vehicles.
I live in Pittsburgh...similar to Boston with bad winters and steep hills...and my new '05 CR-V SE was a champ yesterday in the storm. A champ. Right up my steep driveway...vroom!
It's tough to sell a fairly new vehicle. I guess you're stuck for at least a while but I'd plan to make the switch to AWD soon in Boston.