Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
General Intake / Exhaust Mods
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
As far as the Bolt-on air filter system, it's a big metal tube with a cone filter on one end and the other end bolts on directly to the throttle body. A round rubber cylinder secures the metal elbow on to the throttle body and a little adjusting is needed. A couple twists of a screwdriver and your done. The air filter cartridges drop right into the air box intake. I used those filters on my wife's Probe GT since the front has a factory air scoop.
Any questions, email me by double clicking on the blue Buffbaker. Thanks...
Also, if I use just a K&N filter replacement instead of changing the whole tubing with Gen II, I have been wondering if the MAF can get damaged if fine particles of oil get into it over time?
I have used the K&N with vehicles not using a MAF. Any comments or information on these two questions.
Reason I ask is that I used to live in Arlington, have many many friends in Denton County and surrounding areas. Plus, when I get some things wrapped up here in boring Missouri, we are moving to the Dallas area. I CAN'T WAIT!!!!!
Later.
I happened to notice a K&N ad the other day. It had a diagram with tight, swirling arrows on the outside of the filter and smoothly curving arrows on the inside. The caption claimed that the K&N filters "straightens" air flow for maiximum power or some such nonsense.
They've given up on trying to build credibility among knowledgeable people. There's no money in that. They're targeting a demographic that thinks that the moon landing was a fake but professional wrestling is real.
And they're more profitable than ever.
Brainstorm! Want some extra power? Solution: On a clear day with no smog alerts just remove your air filter. Do your little racing bit and then replace it back. Only backpressure restriction to deal with.
For those who are scared about particles stay away from dirt roads or construction areas. Or take one of those home fiberglass air filters cut out the blue, wad it up a little and stuff into intake use a big rubber band (bungie cord) to secure it to the perimeter of the housing. Can use in conjunction with ram air. That'll keep the big chuncks out without restricting flow...most of the tiny stuff just exits thru the exhaust valves..some might get mixed in oil and trapped in oil filter... for best results and most fun do this just before trade-in...wonder how many times this has actually been done?? probably lots.
A prime example of this is my car. I installed a K&N conical filter in the engine bay of my 96 Probe GT. Because the V6 engine generates alot of heat the car would actually lose power in hot spring/summer driving. But in the winter the car would definately be quicker.
The design of the mass air sensor also has alot to do with how much power that K&N filter will produce that you just installed. Some cars, like mine, have a archaic mass air sensor that is mechanical instead of electronic. Meaning at full throttle the mass air sensor will only let so much air into the engine. In that case the K&N does very little because only so much air can be pushed passed the mass air sensor. Most newer cars have electronic mass air sensors which don't have any mechanical moving parts. ON these, systems you will generally see a slight power gain.
With a drop in filter the most you may see is 2-5 hp. That's the typically range. With the K&N conical open air filters it's a mixed bag because of hot air. The best system would be to purchase a ram-air system or if nobody makes one then build your own ram-air system using a K&N filter. After I built a Ram-Air system for my car the power is noticeably improved in cold and hot weather.
$30 in tubing (and connectors), hose clamps, and funnels. There's a noticeable difference in power
even at low speeds because of the cooler air coming in.
-Tim
Also, when the vehicle is tuned to run well at speed, when the ram effect is present, how does it run at idle, when stationary?
Ram induction's great, but it's not usually a simple add-on.
a cold-air induction. I basically modified two
big funnels and placed them in the tow-hook holes (removed the tow hooks) in the airdam under the front bumper. I then connected two 1.5 inch I.D. tubes from the funnels to the air filter box. I cut a separate hole for the tube connection to the airbox, so I doubt the pressure is much higher than before (i.e. not much ram effect since the original air intake from the fender well is still there), just colder/fresher air. A true ram-air would be a closed system except for the ram intake.
I thought today's cars adjust the fuel/air ratio via the mass air-flow sensor and the oxygen sensor, meaning that if the mixture gets too lean, more fuel gets pumped in to enrichen it. I guess there could be a limit to that based on the fuel pump and the regulator, though. Based on the fact that I'm at high altitude (see below), I doubt that running too lean will ever be a problem for me.
The truck runs great at all speeds at this point.
Idle's fine and has more torque at driving rpm. There's this one really big hill I have to climb when going to work (it's a 9% grade for 1.5 miles, I live in mountainous Northern New Mexico). I can now do 63 mph all the way up the hill easily (this is at an altitude of 7000 ft, so it's not as trivial as it may sound) passing most other cars and trucks on the way. Before I could barely muster 57 mph.
-powerisfun
P.S. I also have a K&N filter which was put in a few days after I bought the truck (it's now 13 months old, 11,000 miles).
It includs conical filter, MAF, and everything you need to replace the factory airbox, at a LOWER PRICE than K&N.
It's called the KKM True Rev Induction kit.
Heres the URL:
Ford Performance at Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports
Address:
http://www.kustomz.com/index.html
I love the growl under the engine that the cone filter makes! However, ike the previous post I did have to get used to it.
I can't really say the car really feels that much faster, but I did smoke a pre-99 V-6 Mustang today! He couldn't even catch me!
I also recently installed a mini-turbo muffler on my car. I really loved the sound the engine made after I installed it, (However I can't hear the engine anymore since I added the KKM two days ago, and I kinda of miss it.)
However, I am probably going to have my resonator removed tomorrow to get more sound out of my Cougar and get a little more flow.
It's the pay me now or pay me later deal. The first time you do it, provided everything is dust free, it probably won't cause any noticeable damage to your mill. But, the more you do it the more chance you have of sucking in contaminates.
If you are smart, then you won't do this. If you don't care, then you can do it a time or two. If you are dumb, then do it a whole bunch of times.
I recommend that anyone who adds a cone air filter should remove their resonator also.
I really think that growl under the hood is just an indicaton that your engine isn't able to use all the extra air it's sucking in.
My car is also noticeably faster on the highway. I often race my buddy in his BMW 528i.
He alway's beats me, But since my mods he notices that it takes him longer to catch me now.
How would you feel if somebody was stuffing dead bugs in your mouth???
20.5 MPG a 1mpg increase.
I drive 70 miles a day w/ 50/50 city/hwy driving.
Thanks,
Manny
Nick
I have not seen any - lacking that, its all hype - and imagination of the benefits. Most factory stuff is pretty good in my opinion. I do not buy aftermarket - most has bad quality and does not fit etc. Wheels out of round, etc etc.
Good brands (off the top of my head): Vortech, Griggs, K&N, Steeda, Hurst, Taylor, Cervini, etc. etc. etc...
Bad brands (my opinion and others I've talked to): Cincinnati Composites, MAC, Excessive Motorsports
See? Ask around, do your research, and make your decision.
My car club rented a dynometer for a 12 hour stretch this past summer, to test hp ratings at the wheels. We took a completely stock NX2000, and tested it with the stock airbox in place. We then let the car cool, and installed a Jim Wolf Technology cone air filter, which uses a K&N brand medium. This piece comes with a brushed aluminium airhorn intake, which smooths the airflow, and may be responsible for some of the gains. Remember that a simple drop-in K&N filter is a completely different kettle of fish, and will be comparable to stock.
I expected 2-3 hp, at the most. We were all shocked to discover that the filter alone created an additional 6 hp @ the wheels!
I tested my car, which also has an aftermarket (freer-flowing) exhaust header, and the combination of these two bolt-ons produced an additional 13 hp @ the wheels.
Your own results WILL vary, this is subject to many other variables, but for the SR20DE engine, the JWT POP is a very well-engineered intake, and worth every penny.
Has anyone had a K & N filter long term?
The worst that can happen is that if you over-oil your K&N filter, you can cause the oil to collect on the elements in your MAF sensor. You can clean it with a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol.
I have had no such problems.
dont know about the vette or viper
but im pretty sure anything with RAM Air has a K&N filter
You only have to buy one element and all you have to do is clean in about every 10K to 15K miles with a $10 cleaner/conditioner kit sold by K&N. Basically you clean it with a spray on cleaner, then wash the filter with a garden hose to wash the debris off, then use the conditioner oil to re-moisturize the filter. Thats it. It takes about 15 minutes to clean and reinstall the filter and the $10 cleaning/conditioning kit will last you 3 to 4 years.
How many of these things to you think they would actually be able to sell?
Except for the 1 you would buy.
I think you've been watching to many re-run's of the A-Team lately.
later...
The unit really makes a noticable difference on this vehicle, as the original intake is very restrictive. A bonus-the Induction noise is deep and throaty , but not intrusive. The installation is not quite as simple as the company claims, due mostly to very confusing directions. However, this part fits very well.(More than I can say for some aftermarket parts I've used in the past) Expect to pay around $200.00 from mail order catalogs.