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HELP
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Platinumson responded to the questions I asked, but I can not view or print the complete response.
I now know not to include my email address, thank you for your guidance.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I can not see the balance of the discussion it ends abruptly
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks again,
David
:confuse:
Holy hostility, Batman! I'm no fanboy of car dealers, but where did OP mention even telling the dealer about the problem? Did I miss something?
Just found and read this message board. I wasn't able to relate to anyones post, though...
SOOOO im posting here and have hopes of getting some answers so I don't go into the repair shop w/a blindfold on and my arms crossed.
My car is jumping--bad! The crank shaft sensor was replaced about two yrs ago so im HOPING and THINKING it's not that. *I think this current problem is something to do w/another sensor.
When driving, my car will ride smoothly and then the RPMS suddenly go sky high (4-5rpms whether im driving 20-70mph. I have noticed it happens more so on the street vs freeway). At times while driving on the freeway I'll make it from point a to point b running what I call "rich" since the car seems like it's being forced to drive. RPMS will stay at about 4-5 the entire time.
At times when stopped at a red light my car takes a long time to get the "umph" and GO! So again, the same sorta issue as mentioned above w/the jumping.
Also, I have smelled a burning smell on occasion. Not all the time but it's there. This 'issue' may have nothing to do w/the accelerating problem but at the same time it may.
Pls forgive my long post.
Anyone...!??! Thanks a ton for any input in advance
Denise
Seems if you take it out of Park and put it back in Park, it will start and all elec power is restored.
Anybody experience that or have any thoughts concerning it? We have had it in for service several times. Battery and ignition system check out fine.
Thanks!
2002 sante fe gls model.
Does anyone know what parts I need and the schematics/steps to replace this, the dealer is quoting like 2 grand to do otherwise.
Thanks in advance
Please get back to me ASAP so my parents can make their 7 hour drive home safely. Thanks
Has anyone else heard of this problem or know how I can fix it?
We bought our 2011 V6 AWD Sport in March 2011 and I have 12,000 km on it March 2 2012.
4 times the battery has been dead when we go to start it.No reason we can find/light left on/door ajar.Anyway.It happened again on Wed. I put the charger on it and finally got it to start.
I had lights flashing on the dash/chimes & bells going off.I shut it off and restarted.Each time I did this, less lights would come on or different lights would come on.By lights I mean the idiot lights on the dash. My check engine light was flashing but after another restart it went solid.
I needed to go to town a 64 km round trip but my gas gauge was showing empty and range was blank.I had just filled up on Monday and had only driven maybe 150 km.There was a strong smell of gas. As I was driving, the engine light would flash intermittently.The gas gauge started to move up* but my range remained blank.I called my dealership and they towed it in.I am still waiting to hear what codes if any it gave them.All they have said is that I have several issues. This was said before they had it in the shop
About 1 month ago my fuse for the Cig lighter and charge blew. Figured it's 9 years old and it's the first fuse to blow, so wasn't a big deal. Now it's blown again, should I be concerned it's something more serious? I use a TomTom GPS, but haven't noticed any problems until recently.
Thanks!
It sounds like similar problem with slightly different symptoms. It doesn't show up in their diagnostics which makes no sense. It's probably just a bad board.
also my fuel gauge has not worked for 2 1/2 years. Have to figure miles as to not run out of gas. Can wiggle the battery cable and the fuel gauge works until you let go of it. have tightened as much as i can. my check engine light never goes off. it has been on for 2 years. Can't afford to take an almost new suv to the shop every time a dummy light comes on. I will never own another.
Thanks!
Two weeks later as my nephew was taking my niece's children to school the car starts doing it again. Then failed to start at all after he turned off the car. (This is after a new tank of gas is put in.) This time he pulled the car to the side of the road and called me. I have the car towed home. We get it off the tow truck and it runs just enough to get it into the driveway and dies, again with hardly any power. Engine light is on. I put the reader on it and it comes up with P0350. Bad primary or secondary coil. A few months prior to this event I got a misfire code on cylinder 3 so, I replaced both coils. (I figure its like headlights, one goes out, replace both).
Here is a weird thing. While trying to start the engine. 5 second burst. I get no spark to the spark plugs. However, when we turn the power off the coils discharge to the closest ground sometimes the valve cover, sometimes to the spark plug. ???
Actions to date:
Tested the coils with ohm/volt meter. Both coils check out. the book calls for a resistance between 17-23K (thousand) ohms. Both coils are at 16.4 K ohms. Spark plug wires are positive for conductivity. New plugs.
Replaced the crankshaft timing sensor and the positioning plate that is on the crankshaft. (the notch in the crankshaft positioning plate that fits over the woodruff key was so worn, that it was allowing the plate to rotate between 7 and 15 degrees and, was also flopping side to side so that it could possibly hit the sensor)
Replaced timing belt
had a mechanic come over and test the ignition pulse to the fuel injector
Had the ECU repaired. They found a bad ignition pulse driver in the ECU.
Put the ECU back into the car. Didn't need to re-flash the ECU because the pulse driver was all that was replaced.
Ok, with all that done we checked the ignition timing again this time with the meter. I get a reading of 4.65 volts from the crankshaft and camshaft however, not at the same time. I was trying not to have to disassemble the car to verify that the initial repair was good. I was wondering shouldn't both the crankshaft and the camshaft be firing a signal at the same time? It appears to be about 45 degrees from the crankshaft to the camshaft pulses.
I did the dls-assembly back down to the crankshaft again.
Put the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center) found the front balance pulley timing was off by about 100 degrees (could this be causing no spark?).
There are two camshaft timing marks (they are aligned to the valve cover markings) visual inspection of the cams confirm that they are in fact correct,
There is a timing mark on the crankshaft positioning plate and there is 1 one the crankshaft. Both of those are aligned together with the timing mark on the block.
The rear balance timing mark is correct to the block.
Ok, with all that said I am about to re-assemble the engine. I put the front balance pulley on the timing mark. Re-did the belts. and just about to button this puppy back up. Did I miss anything? Or are there other actions I need to check? And does anyone happen to know why this may have initially started in the first place??