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Comments
7K miles - replace fuel filter because of leaks. Waranty
8.5K miles - rebuilt shifter to work properly. Assembled at factory wrong. Replace EGR valve. Wanranty
10.5K miles - replace EGR valve, replace fuel filter again because of leaks. Waranty
12.7K miles - Replace rear passenger widow regulator. Waranty
28K miles - EGR same story. Waranty
33K miles - F37 recall. Tremendous loos of engine power. No help at all from dealer.
56K miles - rear end develops loud whining sound. Dealer refused to deal with it. Call Chrysler area rep. "That's the way it's supposed to sound". WTF?
62K miles - Rebulit rear end. No replacement parts required. Just rebuilt to the way it should have been when it left the factory. No waranty.
75K miles - blew turbo boost hose. no waranty
78K miles - Rebuilt transmission. I've never had to rebuild a trany before at this mileage.
102K miles - replace rear driver side window regulator.
105K still own it but I'm really don't know why. As long as I don't have any more problems, the small truck/turbo diesel is the best concept I've seen. To bad Toyota doesn't take it up.
Bottom line. I love the concept but the Jeep/Chrysler combo has done a very good job of selling Toyota's. No more American made vehicles for me and I will advertise Chrysler's lousy quality to any one who will listen.
Chrysler deserves to go out of business, needs to go out of business and, with Fiat's reputation, will go out of business. It's just a matter of time.
I'm having trouble understanding why so many problems with one vehicle. I feel a bit guilty as I have only had the EGR and torque convertor problems both covered by warranty and a rental car furnished.
If the vehicle was still under warranty when you complained about the noise in the rear axle it should have been covered if you kept the paperwork. But again, that might depend on the willingness of the dealer to stick up for customers. My dealer bends over backwards to help his customers.
I am concerned with the trans rebuild. That is a very rugged unit and should not have gone out so soon. Mine is shifting a bit sluggish now between 2 - 3 but it is due for a full scale maintenance so I chalk it up to that. I have pulled trailer loads of firewood out of the woods and a heavy camper for long distances with no trouble from the trans.
I have had NO problems with my 2005 other then the recalls and the EGR. I must have been given the really good EGR at about 12k because it is still working perfectly at 106k and I have not done anything to it.
In sure hope this is the end of your troubles. From the sound of it you should have burned up all the bad luck by now.
I had countless repairs under warranty like you but different issues. None of the EGR valve issue. Issue at 62k under warranty had propeller shaft with universal joints replaced transfer case to front axle and at 65 k the same dealer did the same work again under warranty. This is when that sound FINALLY stopped completely. So I figure that was the problem area causing the sound. At 70k I had my last problem and hoped since so many things had been replaced that maybe I could count on another 70k of a reliable vehicle. So far so good. I take it in manana for the oil change and fuel filter separator unit replacement. And I will get a second opinion on the status of the brakes,shocks and struts needing replacement. You'd think I drove this thing over boulders and through rivers. It has macho torque and good towing muscle which I do not tow but 1k lbs. 12-16 times per yr 150 miles. But the rest of this is totally sissy city 4x rather than a real outback vehicle. Fortunately I found a real diesel mechanic 150 miles away and I am looking forward to his input because the dealers are impotent when it comes to servicing the crd, they literally know next to nothing and so I think that adds to the problems. Agreed this rogue automaker should be cast-sized and license pulled. Oh yeah buy American and bend over. Treasonous pigs. When screwing your fellow Americans to unjustly enrich yourself at our expense goes out of in-vogue, maybe we will have then true fellowship and a reformed economy based on quality goods and real morals. cheers
1. Provent system. Simple install, saves your erg valve and turbo from excess oil and gunk.
2. In tank fuel pump (from a 2002-2006 dodfe diesel ick-up). The CRD pulls the fuel from the tank, any minor air leaks and your dead in the water. this set up puts a light pressure on the system and saves wear and tear on your main pump plus overcomes the weaknesses in the stock fuel filter set-up. If you have a minor leak you will not breeak down.
3. I replaced my stock air filter with a drop in AFE dry high flow air filter. It is much more efficient than stock and a little less efficient than a K&N, but no oiling and all you have to do is vacuum it occassionally. I personally do not like the mess of a K&N and they void warrenties because over oiling can hurt your engine.
4. Transgo shift kit, a pretty easy install and like $40. gives you firmer shifts.
5. GRD eco tune, they fine tune your computer to get the most out of your CRD, can increase your MPG by 2 to 4. gives you more power.
6. Sedimentator, this was just a neat little thing I came across it is a pre -fuel filter. Has no element just a drain pitcock. The fuel swirls through it seperating the larger particles and water before going to the main pump.
I would only do this with the along with the in-tank pump because without it you wold be putting more stress on the original pump.
7. I put on an ARB front bumper, mainly because I only carry liability insurance and I like a true ramming bumper over the plastic. It also makes the Liberty look a bit more masculine.
8. I run Amsoil synthetic oil in everything.
I am getting around 24+MPG around town and 30+MPG on long trips.
Hope this helps: Bob
You are fortunate to have found a mechanic that is aware of this.
After doing much research within 30 days of buying my 2006 CRD I put in the in-tank pump, Provent system, Transgo shift kit, high flow ait filter and had the computer re-programmed by Green Diesel.
this was all preventative measurements do to reading articles written by backyard CRD mechanics.
Bob
Now the real interesting thing or two that I have learned is that whenever a dealer has one of these engines, other dealers are clamoring to buy it from them. Why? In one case of an oil consumption issue, the liners in two of the cylinders were out of round, yet the engine had never over heated and had been properly care for.
Chrysler, under FIAT's guidance intends to use engines from this same company, V.M. Motori, in their cars and in some domestic offerings. I would be real leery about buying one of these.
p.s. does anyone know how to check the codes on the 06? I've tried the on of ignition thing and it doesn't seem to work. Engine light has been on since hubby changed the turbo and changing gears at the wrong time at lower speeds. I figure he has knocked off a wire or something.
Other wise you can buy your own tester for under $100.
It can read your codes and reste the check engine light.
Another trick that May work is to disconnect your battery for at least 10 minutes (I do it for overnight) and it should reset the computer to the Factory settings.
I have a call in to my favorite mechanic at the Jeep dealer. This guy is sharp, he was sent to school for the CRD as soon as the dealership learned it was coming out. This dealer works hard at keeping the five star rating. My mechanic has changed one EGR in 117k miles so you know he put in the right one first time. His work under warranty has been flawless. He will know what to make of this.
I suspect something is mis-communicating between the engine computer and the body computer. It might be shifting the transmission to a low gear and turning on the 4LO light. I am just guessing because I can't be there when it happens. You said NO GO so that could mean a couple of things.
Like uncle bob suggested let the Libby sit with the battery off overnight and hopefully the problem will go away. Please let us know either way.
Good luck with that problem, glad you like your CRD, I sure like mine and all of my friends who have driven like its agility compared to their bigger units or its quickness compared to their small cars.
This might be just a transmission bug. I was made to believe it could not (should not) go into 4 lo unless the 4 lo lever was pulled up. If that is correct then I suspect it is the transmission shifting to a lower gear.
Hopefully leaving the battery off with cure this problem before the engine or transmission is seriously harmed.
and are you using a good synthetic fluid?
I recoment putting in a Transgo shift kit, next time you change the trans fluid, it is not very hard to do and costs under $50 if you shop around.
Another thing you might check is your motor mounts.
put on your parking brake, have someone stand next to the open engine compartment (never in front of the car) and give it come gas. (not much) in both forward and reverse. The engine should remain stable. If it tries to lift up out of the car, you have a broken mount.
the reason I am thinking this is enough movement might cause it to shift into 4-low. I kinda doubt it, but it' a free check!
Best of luck: bob
Other then that there have been no problems I can attribute to the Jeep itself. I had a fuel problem one time. Left the house in cold weather, got five miles away and........no power. It could run at about 35 mph. I suspect the filter was due for a change so it was partially clogged, but worse yet I think there was water in the fuel. I limped to a truck stop about 15 miles away and added a double helping of Howes diesel treatment. Tired of pulling off the road every time a car came from behind, I went inside with the engine idling, doors locked, and had a bowl of soup. I always keep a spare key in my pants pocket. By the time I came out the Howes had done its thing. I got in and the power was back. So now I add it at least every other tank even in summer and ALL fill ups in the winter.
I have good luck using 20% biodiesel IF I add the Howes every time. I like knowing the pump and injectors are getting proper lubrication that the missing sulfur USED to take care of. It runs great on it, I don't notice any great difference in mpg so I use it every chance I get. It can't be bad news if I have driven 116,000 miles using it.
I hope they can get this little dynamo cleared to pass emissions for more Jeep vehicles in the future. I have talked to a lot of Wrangler owners who would dearly love to have that engine in a Wrangler. That would be an awesome stump jumping, rock crawler with almost 300 pounds of torque at just 2000 rpm!
My only challenge is winter cold and living off the grid I cannot plug in the block warmer all night so I have to start the generator and run the block warmer off of it. Hey even the gasoline generator does not like to start in the cold. I have used gas treatment like heet but the engines just do not want too wake up and start in the early am cold. Happy holidays to all.
Not 1500k's after the warranty expired, my turbo charger died. I did everything by the book in the way of regular maintenance so I was very disappointed in Jeep/Chrysler for not stepping up to the plate and honoring the warranty. I would have been okay with them offering me 50%. The total cost of this repair was north of $3500. CDN.
Apart from this unfortunate incident, I have to say that this vehicle is top drawer. I also use the recommended Mobil One oil and have done so since day one.
I now have 185,000k's on this vehicle and am looking for a new battery. I had the original checked and its at half, only cranking out 350 amps. So I am in the market for a new one, just doing some due dillegence in which brand to get, although the original has worked out just fine, so I might look at a dealor item.
If anyone has a suggestion, I'm listening.
Thanks
Paul
By the way. Dealers no longer have the filter cannister by itself. The only way it comes is with the whole heater-primer housing. When they told me $140 I almost choked. I ended up getting one from O'Reilly auto parts. $30 even there. I sure wish there was a simpler, less expensive option. And, it would suit me fine if the new one was about two inches shorter so it would slip out without removing the whole housing.
Thanks, grider.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29090
I stumbled across a SUPER oil, fuel, air filter deal. WIX filters, it's a direct buy at dealer cost through the Dodge ram diesel forum, I just bought 12 wix oil filters, (6 for my Jeep and 6 for my Dodge Ram for $50.43 delivered. My Dodge filters are usually over $12 each. Here they are under $5.
Have your wix filter numbers ready and go to:
www.order.filter1.com (might have to search around for a few minutes if it does not come right up)
Click "HERE" (if current customer) (which you are)
Enter "moparts" for customer #
Enter "moparts" for password (all lower case letters)
click "Login"
Click "go to quick order form"
Enter your Wix numbers and quantity needed.
You should have your WIX filter numbers handy before you start.
Shipping is FREE if order is over $50
The lack of lubrication must be addressed as well, what type of oil were you using? Do you allow it to idle for a minute or 2 before shutting down the engine? Might consider replacing the oil pump as well.
there are also used engines on EBAY from time to time, or you can try autowreckersonline.com for a used one.
Best of luck: Bob
thanks
My bet is either one of the pulleys that guide the belt or the AC compressor bearings.
Do be careful, if the rubber hose gets caught it can pull your hand in. Use a piece long enough you can hold it to your ear with one hand and leave at least two feet between your other hand and the end of the hose you are moving around under the hood. Keep it away from the belt.
Having a problem again with the EGR valve. have a code 401 come up.is asking for a up date for the system. Phone dealer ship do not know any soft ware up dates for the EGR.
They think that it is the tubes between the EGR and engine need cleaning out.
Any ideas?
anne
The CRD is a basically a great little vehicle, however some last minute cost cutting by Jeep and meeting smog requirements, took a really super vehicle and implanted several problems. The "Lost Jeeps" forum has several articles by backyard CRD mechanics who have brought their CRD's up to their potential. Many have made their own provent like systems for penny's. And they work just about as well but with a little more maintence.
There are a few "Musts" (as I consider them) IF you want to keep your CRD running for 300k miles and increase your fuel miliage. the provent (or something like it) tops the list. second is to put in the "In Tank" fuel pump that was cut out to save manufacturing $$. A fuel pump from a 2002-2005 Dodge diesel pick up fits right in and is cheap on EBAY. The wiring is already there under the carpet behind the drivers seat. Currently your CRD pulls fuel to the engine and the cheap guitar clamps on the fuel lines are prone to leaks, which can cause stalling. with the addition of the in tank pump/sender you have a pressurized fuel system which eliminates this problem and saves wear and tear on the very expensive engine mounted pump. A high flow muffler is a worthwhile improvement. The Green Diesel ECO Tune is a bit expensive @ $450 but it will increase your power and give you 2 to 4 more MPG. A Transgo transmission shift kit, is a pretty simple install and costs about $35, it will make your shifting more positive.
If you intend to keep your crd for several years and do alot of towing youwill need a heavy duty torque converter, suncoast makes the best but it is $1,000 give or take a couple of hundred.
The transmission is a weak point in the CRD, although it was designed for a dodge truck, it simply cannot handle the high torque of the CRD engine.
For those who which to remain "stock" There is a procedure referred to as "Blowing it's nose" to clean out some of the sludge (that the provent system will remove). What you do is go to a freeway onramp or an open stretch of road, stop, down shift, and then excellerate at full throttle (do not go past redline on the tach) until the black smoke that will come out of your tail pipe clears up.
Hope this helps: Bob
hope that this doesnt happen again. the price was $260.
They did have a grand cherokee diesel in 2010.
It is a pre filter without an element. It swirels the diesel in a little chamber seperating the water and larger particles which settle to the bottom and you periodically drain it via a little drain plug. This prolongs the life of the main fuel filter considerably.
I regret to inform you the CRD could not be certified to pass emissions for the year 2007. There was still a lot of high sulfur fuel at the pumps which would burn too dirty to pass emissions, so Chrysler had to discontinue the CRD in the Liberty. NOW, if all the pumps had the ultra low sulfur we now have, I am certain the CRD could have been marketed a few more years.
There are some diesel powered full size Grand Cherokees out there. But it will be hard to find them. I believe only or two years of that were built. That has the Mercedes diesel in it. I believe it was called blue tec. The NADA site only lists 2007 and2008 as having the 3.0L diesel in the Grand.
A 3.0 L turbo diesel will be available in the new Grand Cherokee but it will be more expensive then a used one of course. That one will have a Fiat inspired engine that makes 406 LBS of torque.
Good luck hunting.
Here is my experience with the 2.8 vm motori inside the Liberty.
I have used 100% BIODIESEL since my Liberty came off the container in 2005, (I live in Hawaii) I have produced BD for many years, I know how. My Liberty has a vague childhood memory of what Dinofuel is. &years of BD, and has now about 70 000 mi driven on 100% BD.
BD means ABSOLUTELY NO MODIFICATIONS to the car necessary.
Today my CRD still sounds like when it was new, has plenty of power, as on day one, the mileage, however, was never great. The amount of smoke when you floor the beast, is a little less, yes.
Bottom line, I have good news for BD users. Of course, you have to be handy.
Firstly, Biodiesel is NOT straight Vegetable Oil.
It is chemically altered, it is a solvent, and here is the source for potential problems.
If you start using 100% BD things will go bump in minor ways, but NEVER doubt the engine. It is fine.
What will go bad first, is the fuel gauge sending unit....BD dissolves SOME plastics.
next problem the turbo air hose from turbo to intercooler. then again, there was a problem with that anyway, because Mopar went to a different material.
The fuel filter needs replacing, and that is a procedure you need to be familiar with, because this is a prime example how not to design a fuel system. Air starts entering here, because the fuel filter seems to be in the suction line. Mercedes puts it into the pressure line and then you see fuel dripping, that's all the problem you will have. Don't even try to replace the fuel filter from underneath the car, simply take the fuel filter mount off the firewall.
The EGR failed, but it failed in Dinofuel CRD's as well.
The preglow and injectors never gave any problem. The high pressure pump, no problem.
the engine, no problem.
hoses to the fuel filter are now starting to disintegrate, they lasted 7 years.
On my mercedes that is now 26 years old, the rubber hoses are still perfect.
All in all, I think that the Vm motori 2.8l is a good engine, and the CRD is a good injection system, and they can definitely be run on BD, but the way our engineers packaged it into the chassis, paired it with a marginally suitable transmission (remember the recalls w the torque converter) results in a car that requires the owner to take some initiative, if necessary. Lets put it that way.
Fun to drive, no question about that, I'd be hesitant though, to call this car a great automotive solution for the everyday commute, thinking about the rather mediocre fuel economy, overall.
Lastly, please consider, that there is an abundance of smart talking people out there who don't know really what BD is, have never produced it, never used it for many years, and still act like they know everything about it. Not to get political here, but the amount of mis- and disinformation about alternative fuels that's out there is also mindboggling.
Regards!
ON THE OTHER HAND...I went about 70 000 miles at 20 mpg thusly used approx. 3500 gal BD which cost me between $1 and $1.20 per gal to produce (not counting the time and A LOT OF IT that was) ..3$ a gal of dinodiesel when I started to $5.40 where we are now in Hawaii......figure that out..at a median price per gal of $4.20 ..
that is $14700 I would have paid at the pump minus $3500 that's the amount I paid for the BD I produced...I saved $11200 over 7 years.
considering the money i used to constantly refine the production, is not accounted for , the time, the dirt and grime, the frustration with restaurants about collecting, obtaining methanol, hydroxide .....
I tell you, my friend of common sense, I leave it up to you to draw the right conclusion. In addition...HAWAII! think of the temperature! Biodiesel heaven! lots of restaurants with cooking oil. Below freezing temperatures will cause BD to crystallizes MUCH SOONER than dinodiesel. Add that to the big picture and it will kill the BD idea instantly.
More to the point, I just dropped the tank to finally replace the sending unit, and what I found inside the tank.....after I used the best clearest, well prefiltered BD I was able to make, was gunk, gunk, gunk.
Please let me add 2 warnings, if you will. The SVO and biodieselers, not being well organized on the island, but hearing from each other on occasion, it is known to me that prolonged use of SVO will cause coked (sticky) rings and engine failure. EVENTUALLY. Partial remedy: use dino diesel and drive like hell to burn off deposits, but wouldn't you rather sit with the family and not worry?
secondly, there was this secret recipy of adding ATF, petroleum and who knows what else to SVO to make it more fluid. BAD IDEA. A guy here lost BOTH W123 mercedes that way.
So, once the fuel gauge works again on my CRD, and is back together, I will definitely sell Mr. Liberty, too bad you guys are not in Hawaii, since I was reading frequent posts in this forum, by people who are looking for one. Not that I am dumping it, because of BD usage, no, it runs great sounds great has power...but I need something with better mileage.
best regards, good luck all!