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http://tinyurl.com/ylbluo6
more info on installation here...
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=169765
I bought quite a few items from them...
Name is OEMPlus Auto Parts Plus Inc., Laguna Hills, CA 92653
They work great! I also bought a flip down storage bin under the headlight switch, however that installation requires some bending and removing of braces so that the storage bin closes properly.
Oemplus.com has "customer's review" section and in there you will find up to date installation procedures. I am proud to say that they have published some of my installations procedures there.
Whatever you do, DO NOT unplug cables that lead to the seat. Unplugging some of them may deploy seat air bags (if so equipped). Cables are long enough so that if you just remove 4 bolts that hold seat rails and tilt the seats backwards (with rails attached), you have sufficient access to install those drawers.
I have also "plugged" the top of the dash a/c outlets with storage tray from them because the front windshield a/c-heater outlet is sufficient and 2 of them in the same area is, in my opinion, an overkill... ( that installation is a bit tricky, though)....not to mention that in FL humid climate the top of the dash board outlet blowing cold air fogs out the windshield from the outside, when a/c blower is directed into that area...
That's not right, are you sure the settings for recirc etc are correct. IIRC you should cut off outside air if the windshield starts to fog ( a common problem in the snowbelt when getting in with wet clothing on); check your manual for correct settings.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Read my post more carefully, I've said the windshield fogs outside (not inside) the car... you would be correct assuming the windshield fogs inside the car..but, if the windshield starts fogging out outside, you have to turn the windshield wipers on!
So, my post stands as is...trust me, I know what I am talking about....the OUTSIDE humidity is the problem here....manual does not cover this issue and in European VWs, there is a storage tray up there while here, you have additional a/c outlets there. The storage tray (from oemplus) comes with foam padding that effectively covers (plugs) and insulates the a/c-heater top of the dash outlets.
http://oemplus.com/index.php?main_page=product_reviews_info&products_id=256&revi- ews_id=154
It does rain in Florida during the humid season, doesn't it? Sometimes pretty hard, I hear.
As for fogging on the outside of the window, don't Jettas come with wipers? :P
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Anyway you toss it, the removal of the center top a/c-heater outlets (as pictured in the previously sent link) was a good idea for my application and climate.
The regular windshield vents, located at the bottom of the windshield, are sufficient. No need to have 3 vents in that area anyway; windshield vents, upper dash board vents and middle vents (above radio) is/are, in my opinion, an overkill.
I understand you you'd rather have the storage tray and that's fine, of course. But the large square vent is there for a different purpose than the ones that defog the windshield.
I hate a/c and blowing cold air into my face and some like the opposite. There are plenty other options how to cool or warm the car "indirectly"... but generally, the most comfortable setting is: cool head - warm feet!
I wonder for how long will VW have this configuration in the production line....
And the noise - I don't know if it is the tires or what, but the road noise is totally ridiculous. It has Continental tires on the alcantara (sp?) 5 spoke wheels. Very noisy.
I wish I could just bring it back but that won't happen.
If anyone has any thoughts about these two issues, please let me know. I have never had a car which I wanted to get rid of so quickly!
As for road-noise. I have had some tires which get noisier as they wear down. Sometimes, I have been able to get the quietness back by rotating the tires. (make sure they spin the other direction.... if your tires are not directional)
What's the cold tire pressure? Try bumping it up to 34 psi or 38 psi?
Tires do get noisier as they age. If you keep the car long enough to get a nesxt set of tires, maybe check tire-rack reviews and see which ones are the quietest.
Car has the 17 inch wheels/tires? FWIW, switching to 16s should increase mpg a tad.
Also are you trying to keep the rpms as low as possible without lugging the engine? I understand that's the way to get max-mpg, at least if you stay near the torque-peak of the engine. You might want to look up the torque curve for your engine to see where the "sweet spot" for rpm is.
ps - by the time a gas-engine car has about 10k miles, it will have achieved its peak mpg, according to my experience & understanding..
At 13,000 miles I am getting 29 mpg city (09 Jetta Wagon Tdi - 6 speed manual) - the first 10,000 miles it wasn't that high...highway mpg is in the 40s, if I drive the speed limit.
With manual, watch the RPM or change the display to show you what consumption/mpg the engine has at certain RPM and shift accordingly.
So far I like the car except the low ground clearance and the moon-roof.
Can't wait for that Subaru Forester (diesel) hit these shores....anybody has an update on that?
How is this price? What is the real world MPG on gasoline models?
In my area, diesel fuel is often $0.25 GA higher than gasoline and diesel vehicles like the Jetta TDI cost more too. I figure that TDI's MPG payback over a less expensive gasser Forester 2.5X Premium will take 3.5 Years at 14K Miles/Year. Higher mileage drivers will see a quicker diesel payback.
It is NOT the cost of the fuel which makes a diesel attractive. It is the EFFIENCY of a diesel that makes it the very best choice.
I am still loving my $0.05/mile on my TDI.... yes that is 5 cents per mile average over 120,000 miles.
Not even a hybred can match that. (you would have to replace the batteries at least once which is several thousand dollars!!!)
The only "con" I can thing of is the lack of heat in the winter. The engine is soooo effiecent that there is not much heat generated into the engine-cooling system. Hence, when the outside temp is below 0F, one should expect little or no heat from the vents for about 10 miles of driving.
Some people may think that the need to use special synthetic engine-oil is a 'con'... however, since the OCI (Oil Change Interval) is 10K miles, I dont mind spending about $45 for an oil/filter change.
I typically drive me vehicles into the ground. I keep them over 10 years. (Long enough to save up enough cash to buy another one.)
1. Low ground clearance
2. Sun/moon roof generates too much heat in FL sunshine.
I have removed top dash board A/C vents and replaced those with a storage tray (when A/C was on, it was fogging out front windshield from the outside). I think new models don't have those outlets there anymore - not sure though.
I change my oil and oil filter myself every 7 K miles because I drive daily short trips (less than 3 miles one way).
I still would prefer Subaru Diesel for more versatility and better ground clearance. Once you own a Subaru, you are a Subaru "material" for ever!
I intend to put a one inch spacer to raise the Sportwagen TDI after warrenty expires due to overabundance of caution. I'm not alone in this.
The "TDI Forum" has lots of aftermarket solutions for radios, navigation, and DSG info which is highly detailed.
I wish the Sportwagen had the options that the Golf TDI has.
One inch spacer is what I will be doing , as it will not impact the driving personality in the least and 6 1/2" is far better than 5 1/2.
does anyone think i got a good price on a fully loaded sportswagen SE 2010 sold for 24576. OTD after taxes and fees 26664. hopefully i did it was below the TMV. This was in the bay area, ca
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Share your vehicle reviews
1. 2011 Jetta Sportswagen S
2. 2011 Ford Fusion SE
3. 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5S
I will keep the vehicle for 3 years or around 75K miles. Which would you choose between these 3 cars? Gas mileage isnt a concern. I do have a wife and 2 kids who will be taking a few trips a year in it with me as well as riding around town in it. Thanks for any input.
new bodywork.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I'm in the market for a new car and have been considering the Sportwagen. I'm debating whether it is worth my while to go for a TDI or consider the SE. I currently drive less than 10K miles per year and I would say 75% are city miles. I drove an SE model and was a little disappointed with the engine. Unless you put the pedal to the floor from a dead stop, the car seems to hesitate before it gets going.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
I am planning to buy sportwagen. I have two questions
1. Does RNS-510 navigation system in vw support dvd playing while driving. Normally it would stop playing when the vehicle is moving. I saw a hack on youtube that shows how to make it play even while moving? has anyone tried that. I do not see a point in advertizing that it can play dvds if its not going to work while moving.
2. I am thinking of the cornsilk beige interior. The car salesman told me that it gets dirty on the armrests etc. Is it so? Any experience related to that will help me.
2. Everything gets dirty the same way, but beige shows it. This is the downside, the upside is that it looks better, and doesn't get as hot. I personally prefer black, because it doesn't show dirt, but I know that it is just as dirty as beige.
Mico
You mean the first 10miles of driving?
Thanks...
lb/ft of torque. The cost is $499.
I read previous posts regarding installing/replacing the sunroof wind deflector. I
originally ordered a Weathertech deflector and could not get it to fit. I contacted
the supplier who contacted the German manufacturer and they told me that the
deflector for the Tiguan would fit. It was a simple installation and gives enough
clearance that I did not have to remove the OEM pop up wind screen.
I have had my 2009 SW TDI for just over 15 months and my only major issues
have involved numerous unwanted interior noises. I have had the car back to
the dealership 4 times trying to solve a creaking noise coming from the passenger
side of the sunroof. It is about 80% solved but still creaks over rough surfaces
at low speeds. Other unwanted noises that have been solved include "buzzing"
and rattling in the doors and one of the B pillars. I also find that the sound when
closing the doors and rear hatch are not a solid thunk, but more of a tinny sound.
Thanks..
It should be fine with all seasons and will do better than most SUV's if you give it 4 snow tires.
Thanks..
If you want a comparo in your case, visit Dealers on a Sunday so that you'll not get hassled, and jot down the VINs for models you wish to compare. Give your insurance agent the VINS and they'll likely be able to run your numbers.
Thanks..
Two years later, after all the research, we're getting rid of her and going back to an SUV. Just need more passenger space. So sad!
I am planning on using it commercially and putting around 72k miles a year on it if its cargo area is adequate. Do you think the sportwagon is a good option for this, or would you recommend another vehicle? I am a little concerned about build reliability and cost of repairs.
The sportwagon seems to be the most cargo space with the best mpg currently from my research so far. Thanks.
I had my rear passenger lock go out about 6 months after buying the car, and recently my driver door is showing the same symptoms. I'm about 3k miles from the warranty expiring and am going to have the lock replaced ASAP. But I'm wondering if this is a widespread problem or if it's just my vehicle since it was one of the first Sportwagens. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Kim