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The truth often is that a third party part actually is better than a part from the OEM. I ALWAYS opt for third party part if it is available. A simple reason is that if their part does not work they will be out of business so they must make sure, for most of them, that they work as well or better as OEM part.
Car dealer shops can screw up countless times with poor quality parts and people keep coming back, until they are out of business when these people finally realize they need to buy something else, i.e. imports.
You did not say anything about the fuel pressure regulator. Was it tested? When you check fuel pressure it can be too low for two reasons. Your pump does not give enough flow/pressure or the pressure regulator is bad. As you very recently changed your pump already why not replace the regulator just to rule it out as a possible problem? I does not cost much. I have not changed it but I would expect the part to cost less than $30.
Who diagnosed that you have a fuel pump problem? Dealer shop? If so, make sure they do NOT also replace the fuel pressure regulator to make you a happy customer since it seems dealer shops are the worst ones to rip people off and do unnecessary repairs. Worst case would be that they only replace fuel pressure regulator and don't even touch the pump as they could be aware of the "real" problem and know they can get nearly $1000 from you for a $50 fix.
I know I sound pessimistic but this car fixing cheating crap is everywhere and you just need to look for yourself.
A fuel pump going out in two years is very rare occasion and just for that reason I would replace that fuel pressure regulator before going after that big job. You can do it yourself.
Arrie
My wife suggested the fuel pump not working properly and found this forum. Also, I should mention my fuel gauge needle all the way to the right at 3 o'clock ("full" is at 2 o'clock). Your remarks about the fuel pressure regulator sounds like it may be my issue. I've never heard of a fuel pump going out because a car sits (I could be wrong).
In the past, I started my old 1966 Mustang that sat in my sisters garage for 13 years!! I have an old Jaguar that I seem to be able to start after it sits for months at a time. Please help! Any advise is welcome. :sick:
Wet with fuel? Carboned up? Fouled out?
If it won't crank it means that the starter motor cannot crank the engine. As you say it tries to it most likely means your battery is almost all empty. You had it sit for a year, right?
Before doing anything else, based on your post you need to recharge the battery or perhaps even replace it. You obviously have another vehicle so give it a jump start.
It could be that there is nothing wrong other than not enough juice in your battery.
After you jump it or recharge battery and get good crank and if it still won't start post back and we can think of something else being the problem.
Depending on the vehicle they pull various amounts of amperage from the battery even when they just sit. In a year it does not take much and the battery goes empty. Unless, of course, you disconnect battery cable while it is sitting.
It also is that when battery is low enough that it still barely cranks the engine it might not have enough voltage for a good spark to fire up the engine.
I would try to jump it as I wrote above and think other options after that if needed.
Arrie
Any other suggestions?
now it cranks but won't start.
Trouble shooting basics:
1. Check that you have spark. Easiest way to do this is to take one spark plug boot off and insert an extra spark plug on it (can also do it for all spark plug wires separately). Then placing it against engine ground have someone crank the engine and observe if you have a good blue spark. You should hold the boot with isolated pliers or tape it on a wood stick to hold. If you have a good spark you have a good chance for a little electric shock if you hold boot by hand.
If you have spark then problem is with fuel delivery system unless your spark timing is all messed up. In that case the engine should show some kind of signs of trying to start though.
2. If spark is ok you need to check for fuel delivery in the engine rail. Go buy a fuel pressure gauge that screws in the service port of your fuel rail. When cranking the engine you should read 40-60 psi.
Fuel gauge should also have a bleeder line. Mine has a small diameter plastic tube that lets fuel pressure out from fuel system when a button is pressed. Very handy to use before working on the fuel system.
You can use the bleeder line to get a sample of your fuel entering the engine. If fuel really has gone bad perhaps you can sample it and see if it even burns.
Remember, as long as the spark works at the correct time and correct quality fuel is delivered in the engine it will run.
Check those for starters.
Arrie
For instance....
Is the starter engaging, and turning the engine, but the engine doesn't start running?
or, when you turn the key you hear click, click, and the starter doesn't engage and the lights dim?
Any other symptoms that you can describe?
We're replaced the battery, had it to the dealer 3 times, and even to a specialized auto elecrtic shop but no one has any ideas nor do they find any codes on the computer.
Any ideas as we now have a vegicle that is unreliable and yet can't afford to buy a new one and to sell this lemon.
What I would do, is to connect a fused test wire from the starter solenoid...to back inside the car. Get yourself a volt meter, so you can measure the voltage on that wire when you have the failing no-start condition.
If you have 13+ voltage on that test wire solenoid when you turn the key, and the starter doesn't turn then you have proved you have a starter/solenoid problem and replace that unit. If you don't have 13+ voltage, then you are not getting the necessary voltage from the 'control' circuitry. You need the electrical schematics from your car to prove, but suspect key switch or possibly the security system doesn't like your key anymore. Try a different key.
Unfortunately since it is intermittent, you will have to do some of the diagnostics yourself or you'll have this problem for a while until this intermittent problem becomes more permanent and the shop can see the failing condition after you have it towed to the shop.
Several mo. ago we had a problem with it not starting at all, it would act like it was going to start but just didn't keep running. It had been very humid out. Several hours later, we tried to start it & presto, it started. Did the same thing the next day-wouldn't start and then several hours later it did. Took it to a dealership. They keep it for a week and it started like a champ-of course! Suggested it might be the fuel pump, but nothing for sure since they couldn't get it to repeat. Told us about hitting the underneath and keeping more than 1/4 tank of gas in it. Brought it home, no problems since until today-after a weekend of rain, ice & snow (again lots of moisture in the air...) Tried to start it several times, with no success and then several hours later-it started again. Any known problems with moisture and what to do about it? Any other thoughts?
If you can then have the idle air valve checked.
Arrie
Thanks Ed
As I talk about the idle air valve in my previous post that might be you problem too.
Easy test to perform: When you first run the car after the first easy start and then shut it down for more than 10 minutes open the throttle just slightly when you try to start. If it helps you have probable idle air valve problem.
Now, I don't know if your car has the electronically controlled throttle. If it does it does not have an idle air valve but still throttle opening is controlled for idle speed. If slightly opening the throttle at start helps and it is an electrically controlled throttle it probably means the throttle is sticky at close to closed position and idle air control does not work. In this case simple cleaning of the throttle could be a fix but it could also mean that the throttle control step motor has gone bad.
You also can have a heat sensitive mechanical binding issue with the electronically controlled throttle. This would explain why it starts easily cold and just 5 minutes after shut off but you have trouble if it sits more than 10 minutes after driving.
When you shut the engine off the engine heat will increase throttle temperature faster than the throttle body. This means throttle can become too wide inside the body if tolerances are too tight or some other way binding. When car sits only 5 minutes throttle has not heated enough yet to bind but after 10 minutes it would be and already aged and weakened controlled can not move it easily any more. When car sits long enough the throttle and the throttle body reach same temperature and throttle moves easily again.
Now, above is just a theory but could be true too.
Arrie
Have someone turn the key for you holding it at start position and give the starter motor a small bump with a hammer or something. If it is starter solenoid related, which is build in the starter motor itself, a bump could get it cranking. This would mean that your starter motor has a sticky starter solenoid.
Another thing to do is to move the gear shifter to neutral for starting. The park switch could be little odd adjustment not allowing start when the shifter is in park position. Moving shifter to neutral could allow it to start as it should be able to start on neutral too. If this helps then you need the park switch adjusted on the gear shifter.
Arrie
Any help would be appreciated. This problem 1st appeared in Dec. of '08.
Arrie
I had a Chilton manual for my truck, but I have misplaced it (UGH !)............
Could someone share some of their mechanical prowess ?
Normally you would drive the vehicle to an autoparts store, and they would check the alternator under load with the engine driving the alternator. I had a 97' and went thru 2 alternators over 10 year period, so I'm personally suspect of the alternator. What you may want to do, is drive your vehicle over to some different parts center, and get a 2nd opinion on the status of your alternator (while it is in the vehicle).
If the alternator checks out okay, then you need to put a test light on the current draw off the battery, and start unplugging fuses to find out when the current draw stops. Something could be sitting there with a constant couple amp drain and draining the battery down. Start w/engine off, key off, and try to figure out if there is any current draw, and if so, which fused circuit it's on.
You could have a relay with fused points, providing voltage all the time to something that shouldn't have power when you turn the key off.
I know this is over a year old, But I am having the same problem with My Tahoe, Won't start unless it's sitting in the hot sun. I took it to 3 mechanics including the dealership and they all said come and get it, we can't fix it.
I was wondering if you ever solved the problem?
Regards,
Colin
Anyway, now, I have to replaces the rotors/brakes on the front end - it is metal-on-metal now
I hope you find a fix for your situation, and maybe, you will pass the findings on
Take Care
David
I've been having problems when starting my 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe (147000 miles). This doesn't happen all of the time, but when it does upon turning the ignition there is a loud POOF that comes from the engine, with rough idling, and then turns off (then white smoke). I would wait a couple of seconds and turn the ignition again and it turn over fine. It happens with cold/hot starts, and morning or night. I've taken it to the shop to get a diagnostic test, but nothing was found wrong. The only thing I could think of is that some gasoline is sitting somewhere in the throttle body. Then again I'm no mechanic. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Dennis
I have the same problem on a 2004 Tahoe LT I have installed two new batteries, two new starters, and a new negative ground lead. The car will start if I shake the negative ground lead. Everyone I have contacted with this problem has unloaded the car but I only have 54000 miles on it and it has a great ride and is roomy. GM dealers don't seem to have a clue. Thanks.
Terry
When you start it next time when it normally would not start on the first try turn the key to ON position for 3-5 seconds and then to OFF position. Turn key to ON position again for 3 - 5 seconds and then OFF. Now turn key all the way to START position and see if it starts.
Above procedure charges the fuel rail. When you first turn the key ON the fuel pump will start running but it stops after 2 - 3 seconds if engine does not start. Doing above key to ON position a couple of times will run the pump and should assure you have enough fuel pressure when you actually then start it on the third time.
If your car really starts on the third time after two "charging" cycles with the key then your problem indeed seems to be fuel pressure issue.
Fuel pressure issue can be caused by two things, the fuel pump going bad or fuel pressure regulator going bad. Third one could be clogged fuel filter but that should cause some other problems that just starting issues.
Get your fuel pressure checked especially for the moment you are turning the key for the first time. You should see fuel pressure at normal running pressure above 45 psi. Pressure requirement in your car might be different but I think it should be something from 45 psi to 60 psi.
Arrie
Could be any number of factors, battery, corrosion/loose terminal connections, bad starter or solenoid, key switch (particularly if you have a big ring of keys/weight hanging), security chip programming, etc.
Nice to find a hard failure, where they can meter to find exactly where the problem is. Else, you have to throw parts at intermittent problems, and that can get expensive fast.
My truck gets progressively more difficult to start, the longer it sets. On mornings when the truck was driven the previous evening, it will start no problem, but will run rough (really rough - will die at idle) for 15 minutes or so then smooth out and run fine once it has warmed up. IF I let the truck set for a full 24 hours or more, it won't start. In the past, during hard start episodes, I could get it to start if I cranked and cranked and cranked (cooling the starter and cables with water on occasion). When it would start, it would act flooded (lots of smoke and sputtering) - then again it would smooth out eventually and run fine. After the initial hard start, subsequent starts during the day would be uneventful. During one of the hard-start episodes, I confirmed spark with a timing light and tried to use starting fluid with no luck. Pulled plugs and they were a mess, so I replaced them.
The motor is a rebuild with about 30,000 miles on it. The fuel pump is a couple of years old. It has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, ICM, and I have the upper intake off now to replace the fuel pressure regulator (thinking the fuel would leak by during the time between starts).
Am I looking in the right place???