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Any ideas??
Help, I do not know where to turn next or try to fix this problem. Has any one any suggestions? Thank you.
Anyhow, hope they resolve my problem once and for all. Because I really hate the frequent visits to the dealer's shop.
Thanx juju2...
I got my Tahoe from the dealer's shop yesterday. Today morning I encountered the same problem again. I'll take it to them today after work and we'll see.
...& Chevy...I cry your good days.
I am not sure why the MAP sensor would foul up but as now that is all I know to correct the issue.
Good Luck.
I am not sure why the MAP sensor would foul up but as now that is all I know to correct the issue.
Good Luck.
I do not know as yet for I have a bill to get my Tahoe back. Although I hope this fix's the problem, I am unsure. My brother said if the problem continues to start my cleaning the MAP sensor then continue to replace the sensors until the problem is resolved.
I wish every one luck in a well running vehicle. Myself included.
Recently I had a problem with the speedometer showing false readings. I received the recall for the cluster replacement. While I got the card a few months ago, I am out of the 70k mile warranty. However the little security light on the dash started to come at the same time. The factory alarm will arm as normal and will activate as designed, that little light never goes out while the car is in motion and the key in the ignition. Has anyone experienced this problem?
When I turn the key there is nothing, while using the remote the lights come on as normal and the car attempts to start but during the time the starter would normally be engaged the is nothing. It will attempt 3 times then stop. Could this be an intrusion alarm locking out the starter and fuel pump, be cause it doesn't sound like it comes on either.
When I try and start it, all lights come on as expected, makes all the same noises as usual, turns over just fine, but will not fire. Whenever I take it into the dealer it hasn't been cold enough to not start. They say there are no fault codes. One technition has heard of the problem and thinks it is the engine control module. But they cannot reproduce the problem to test it. The truck as a new battery (3-4 months old).
I guess my question is has anyone else had the issue? I am headed to Tahoe next week and thats the last place I want to be with a truck that won't start in cold weather.
Thanks
Mick
I am not a mechanic at all so sorry about the descriptions I may give.
She also notices the battery gauge "bouncing" back and forth alot. Can these two issues be related?
Any suggestions?
The service department at the Local dealer cannot find anything wrong.
-Zuzana
Replacing the fuel-fouled spark plugs was a start.
Replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter helped.
Cleaning her MAP sensor, MAS sensor, MAT sensor helped.
The winning replacement part was her "Ignition Distributor"
Replacing the distributor was the winning part to make her run even in below zero weather.
I wish every one luck in their automotive repair' s.
The Tahoe is in the garage after a complete tune up, replacement of sensors under the dash, replace fuel pump, and it still won't run.
Can you or your mechanic help me.
tccox1@hotmail.com
Another thing to check before fuel pump work is the fuel pressure. If pressure is low it can be an indication of failing pump but it can also be an indication of failing fuel pressure regulator.
Fuel pressure regulator can loose spring force that controls fuel pressure causing low pressure condition and poor fuel spray in the intake port. Pressure regulator is quite inexpensive to change compared to fuel pump.
Depending on the car dealer it seems they want to do the most expensive job first, which you pay regardless if it fixes the problem and then they start changing the other parts that can be the problem.
Have you changed spark plugs yet? They can be the problem too. I know they say you can go 100 000 miles with the factory installed plugs but I would, and have changed mine, already before 50 000 miles. Factory installed spark plugs seldom are the best you can get either as is the case with plug wires.
Start with the fuel filter, which if I remember right is located on driver side in about middle of the car on inside of the frame beam. Lucky you have a fuel filter as some other cars have fuel filter only at fuel pump itself. You could check the fuel pressure before changing the filter to see if it makes any difference.
If filter change does not help check / change fuel pressure regulator.
Fuel filter and pressure regulator change I think cost $200 or less. Fuel pump job I have seen from other posts cost $800 - $1000.
One thing that perhaps tells about filter problem is easy test to do. When the engine is cold and you would need to turn the key twice before it starts do this:
Turn the key only to make all instrument panel lights to come on, i.e. turn the key to ON but DO NOT TURN IT TO START. You should hear the fuel pump to operate for a couple of seconds. Now turn the key OFF and then turn it like you normally would start the engine and see if the engine really starts. This could indicate that indeed the fuel filter is restricting the fuel flow to the engine and you kind of need a "pre-charge" from the fuel pump before you are able to start the engine.
Arrie
The test showed that the system is draining 6.44 amps when totally shut off. This sounds high to me. What could be causing it?
I also get that whirring sound when driving and sometimes when I shut off the vehicle. Could that be indicative of the problem?
Please advise. Any direction or help would be greatly appreciated. I drive my children around in this truck and don't like being stranded at will. Plus wrecker fees are adding up!
6.44 amps is quite high though.
You could do following: Connect amp meter between battery negative and the ground cable. That is where you should see that 6.44 ams draining when everything is OFF and start testing every fuse and relay, i.e. take fuses and relays off one by one (replacing each if not problem) until you find the one that stops battery drainage. This way you can find the circuitry that is causing it.
It can also be that your alternator has started leaking in the ground (diode problem) and as the amperage is quite high this might be where I would start, i.e. disconnect all alternator wires to see if that is doing it.
Starter motor could be the source for problem too so disconnect the thick starter motor power cable from the battery to see if it helps.
Arrie
The issue was that the truck was difficult to start first thing in the morning. Once it was started for the day, I had no problem getting it started. In the morning, the starter would crank but the engine would not fire. I had replaced the fuel pump 5 years ago. For a while, I could get it to start by:
1) cranking the engine for three seconds;
2) turning the key to the off position;
3) turning the key to the on position ( not cranking ) for 10 seconds;
4) turning the key off
5) turning the key to the start ( crank ) position.
Once the car had been started in the morning, it had no problem starting for the entire day.
My mechanic thought that the problem was probably the fuel pump, but when he tested the fuel pressure, the results were within manufacturers specs ( 60 psi -- I think). He was uncomfortable recommending changing the fuel pump because it had been changed previously, it was recording the proper pressure, and it cost $800. Some of the other items might have been the distributor, the Fuel Injectors, the spark plug wires and other items. We both agreed that a new fuel pump for $800 with no certainty that it would remedy the problem, would be a risky venture.
I noticed that when I parked the truck on an incline with the engine higher than the gas tank, the truck would not start at all the next morning. I towed the car such that the engine was lower than the fuel tank. The truck started with no problem.
My mechanic recreated the hill scenario by parking the truck on an inclining rack over night and running the fuel pressure tests in the morning. The test results showed a much lower fuel pressure of 35 psi, way below the manufacturer's spec.
Armed with this new information, we both agreed that my mechanic should go ahead and replace the fuel pump.
Now the truck starts every time.
I have had this Suburban for over four years and have never ever had any problems. It has been a great vehicle.
Oh, I took the fuses for the fuel pump to have them checked and they said I would have to know what the OHMS were so they could be checked. Does anyone know what they might be?
Thanks
I don't know what they are but I don't think you need to know any more than whether they are blown or not. The pump will not function at all if the fuses are blown.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
When a fuse blows, it goes to infinite resistance since the small wire inside the fuse burns up, and there is no connection remaining between the two ends. If the fuse is still good, it has 'low' resistance. Just look to see whether the fuse indicates 'infinite' resistance...if so, it's blown.
If in doubt, just replace it since they are cheap. Alternatively, you can swap the fuse with another fuse of equal rated amperage (swap a 10 Amp fuse, with another 10 Amp fuse....do not swap a 10 Amp fuse, with a 15 Amp fuse). The amperage rating is the amount of amps that the fuse will handle before it burns up.
==========================
1999 Tahoe V8 2WD - problem with starting when cockpit is humid. cranks, fires, acts like it wants to start, but dies. Only happens when cockpit is humid.
Optional Information:
1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 350
Already Tried:
replacing rotor, cap, wires, plugs, unplugging in and pluggin in ECM connectors. All underhood stuff. Does not seem to have any bearing on what is going on under the hood, only if the interior is humid. In the morning is the most likely time that this happens, but also on a rainy day. It sometimes fires the first try, but if it does not and fires and dies, no level of repeat attempts works until it sits for a while. Battery is fresh, so that is not the issue. Have looked for this issue on message boards, and see a lot of folks describing this problem, but no causes identified. I'd like an answer quickly, but not willing to pay $$ to get a canned stupid response, and since this is the first time I've tried this service, I'll see what I get and then pay if the answer looks plausible.
==========================================
is this the same problem you encountered?? Is a new fuel pump the reccommendation based on symptoms? How hard is changing the fuel pump??
thanks
Michael
I have had my Suburban since 1999 and have replaced the fuel pump once in 2004 and once in 2008. It is a known weakness in the Suburban/Tahoe vehicles.
I had the replacements done by qualified mechanics both times as it is a tricky procedure. The part costs about $500 and the labor is about $300. The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank at the back of the truck. You need to drop the fuel tank ( best if it has very little gas in it ), replace the fuel pump, then re-install the tank. As I am not a professional mechanic, I was uncomfortable attempting this procedure on my own. I did not want to risk incorrectly installing a $500 part, then having to pay for the procedure all over again.
One way to see if the current pump is operating properly is to have your mechanic measure the fuel pressure that coming out of the existing fuel pump. The manufacturers' specification is around 60 PSI. If is is below that by a significant amount, then the fuel pump is not operating properly.
Good luck with your truck.
'
Hope that helps.
A wrong form easily can be that too low fuel pressure does not atomize the fuel spray and the engine won't start. Then, after you start it up with the starter fluid and it runs and engine is warm it will start normal way, until it sits and cools down.
An important thing with the fuel pump that needs to work correctly for correct fuel pressure is the fuel pressure regulator. Did you change that out? If not, that would be my next thing to do. It actually would have been one of the first things that I would have checked before changing everything else you have changed including that fuel pump.
Checking codes probably will not tell you anything since there is no sensor for fuel pressure. Have codes checked at a car part store, where they do it for free for you. Dealer or other shops charge about the same as a OBD II scanner cost, i.e. if you are considering taking your car to a dealer or other shop buy the scanner instead. It is easy to use and a very good tool to have. OBD II scanner works for all U.S. sold cars since 1997 I believe.
Arrie
Arrie