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2001 - 2006 Honda CR-Vs



  • tomsrtomsr Posts: 325
    If the CRV has hydraulic lifters they may need to pump up and cold weather makes it worse.Changing to a lighter 10w40 oil might help.I have had many
    Hondas and never experienced this noise.Of course I live in a warm climate.
  • I tow my 2000 CRV behind my motorhome. Parked next to another CRV owner the other day and had a discussion about the cars. He asked if I had received my recall notice affecting cars that were towed. Said that he had received notice very recently advising that if you had towed a CRV to return it to dealer for some front end part replacement. I have heard nothing from Honda and have found nothing on the web about this. Anyone know about it?
  • varmitvarmit Posts: 1,125
    Motor - This shouldn't be a problem for you. My understanding is that Honda did not completely spell out the towing instructions in early CR-V owner manuals. They gaffed the instructions for towing a CR-V with an automatic transmission. Follow the guidelines in your CR-V's manual as only early editions were incorrect.

    For information about this sort of thing, you can usually get answers from the folks at the CR-V Information Exchange. This particular issue was brought up there only a few days ago.
  • I have driven 4wd, awd (my old Audi Quattro) and currently my CRV. First, I think 4wd sucks in the snow! It is only good at keeping you from getting stuck from a stop. Since the wheels spin at the same rate, the only way it can go around a curve is by THE WHEELS SLIPPING! The las place you want to lose traction is going through a curve! My Audi Quattro could go through curves like a sportscar. The CRV? I was surprised how well it does. I have driven it in the same conditions as the Audi (around Lake Tahoe) and despite the cruder awd system, it did as well or better than the Audi. Better? Yep, the extra clearance helped. Furthermore, it drives a heck of a lot better than a 4wd in the snow. I have a coworker with a Jeep Wrangler and I bet my CRV could outdrive it on a snowy day. So, when people question the real time, they are always the ones that have never driven one in the snow! Oh, piston slap is usually a sign of bad tolerances. It can go away when the car gets warm, but it doesn't bode well for engine life. I would keep track of oil usuage as well. The CRV doesn't use self adjusting tappets. I had mine adjusted at 40K miles and it quited down the valve noise.
  • When I drove a 4WD over a foot of snow yesterday, the "drivetrain bind" delima is completely out of the picture, no problem whatsoever in making u-turns or cornering.

    With this kind of roads, only a true 4WD can sustain. Those automatic clutches or viscous couplings or traction controls can quickly be overused in this situation and can wear prematurely. These systems are ideal only on INTERMITENT slippery patches but reliability becomes at risk once the going really gets tough.
  • The reason why you don't feel driveline bind in deep snow is because the outer wheels are losing traction! With a viscuos differential, the fluid inside, not the tire, gets the slippage. It makes a lot more sense, don't you think? When driving in snow, traction is important and when you drive through a curve with 4wd, you lose it. My Audi had lockable front and rear differentials. I could lock up just the front, or lock up both so that it was just like a 4wd. I tried that and it drove like a truck, pretty bad. With it set to normal differential operation, it could drive way better than any 4wd truck. I don't know what kind of wear you are talking about with viscuos differentials. The only thing that can wear is the fluid in them, and that can last 90K miles or longer!!! The plates in them do not see any contact with other plates, they will out last the car. The Awd system in the CRV, like any other viscuous system, will easily outlast the car and give far better performance than a primitive part time 4wd system. I repeat, when I am negotiating a curve in the snow, the last thing I want is a vehicle that requires the outer tires to lose traction, so as not to suffer drivetrain bind! I appreciate traction.Try a CRV or any other awd vehicle. You will see that its performance in the snow will lay to waste any macho looking gas guzzling truck with 4wd.Been there, done it.
  • Say, I was wondering if anyone had complaints about the arm-rests on the CRV? I test-drove one and found that they were far too thin, and uncomfortable. My Corolla's are comparatively fat and wide. I'm concerned that on a long trip, this would be unacceptable. I habitually rest my left elbow when I drive.

    Anyone else have comments on this?

    Thanks in advance!
  • The passenger needs an arm rest too. That can be fixed. The big problem are the seats. Now, I am sure some will argue that seat comfort is subjective, they like them, etc. But the fact is the seats are terrible! The seat bottom is too short,giving insufficient support for your thighs. The rest of the seats are hard and uncomfortable as well.On long trips, you will be squirming. My wife loves her CRV, but she refuses to travel long distances in it, viewing it as a torture chamber.My brother has a '99 CRV and he feels the same way.Anything longer than 30 minutes is bad. In fact, for commuting, my wife said she rather drive her CRV than my '96 Impala SS because "The Impala SS is too comfortable- the bad seats in the CRV keep me from falling asleep on the way home!". Three different people, same opinion.BTW, I have driven up 14 hours straight in the CRV, so I KNOW what long distance driving is all about!
  • bailiebailie Posts: 12
    I also have driven long distances many times and now have over 30,000 miles on my CR. I find the seats to be very supportive and comfortable over long distances. I guess your right it's very subjective.
  • I'm looking for a 2001 CR- EX-5 speed. I previously owned a civic wagon, which I thought was the greatest car ever built. Currently I own a civic sedan, but my two big dogs don't like the back seat, so...
    1) what kind of mileage are people REALLY getting (why is it so much purer than the previous civic wagon--I used to get 38-40 MPG and my current sedan--34 MPG?)
    2) how much stuff can the CR REALLY carry and tow? (I saw a segment on a news magazine show that said the CR load carrying capacity was poor) and
    3) what about the roll-over safety concern with the vehicle being 8 inches off the ground
    4) a dealer told me the driver couldn't get an armrest with a 5 speed--is this right?
    5) is it worth it to get a dealer installed radio/cassette/DC player with the upgraded speakers or would it be better to go to a car audio place--does anyone have the Honda system? What do you think of the quality?

    This is my first time on one of these message board things, so thanks in advance for your help.
  • I average about 25mpg with my '99 ex. I have gotten as poor as 19 driving in the snow and as high as 28 on the highway. My old civic hatch back used to get in the mid 30s but then it weighed less, and was much more aerodynamic.

    As far as hauling stuff, you can trailer 1000 lbs. It will carry five adults and their gear fine. How much do you need to carry? It will easily out haul your Civic.

    Any vehicle can roll over under the right conditions. Keep this in mind. A higher center of gravity increases your chances of rolling under the right conditions. That said, I have heard of few CR-Vs rolling and those that did were hit by other vehicles, which caused them to roll. Even it those cases, the occupants were not seriously injured.

    The dealer doesn't offer the armrest, but you can add it aftermarket.

    Go with an aftermarket audio upgrade. Much more bang for the buck.
  • varmitvarmit Posts: 1,125
    Seats and armrests - I've got the 5 speed CR-V and yes, they do not come with a driver's armrest. Honda maintains that it would get in the driver's way. You can purchase one from an aftermarket vendor, but they cost about $100. The passenger side one is cheaper (about $30-40)as it does not require the bracket inside the seat. Personally, I don't recommend either. I installed the passenger's side armrest and found out the hard way why Honda doesn't include one. The arm rest prevents the seatback from folding all the way down to create the "bed" on EX and SE models (it hits the post of the folding console). I've rarely used this as a bed, but I do use it when toting lumber, piping, etc. Most folks won't care, but it bugs me. My wife and I find the driver's seat to be comfy, but she's not fond of the passenger's seat. The lack of adjust in the seat bottom must make a big difference to her. My recommendation to people having trouble with the seats has always been to adjust them so that you are sitting bold upright. That worked for my wife.

    Cagney1 - I'm getting 25+ mpg out of mine. I drive 65% highway and 35% town roads in my daily commute. I've been recording it for over a year now.

    Last time I checked the CR-V was rated for up to 900 or 1,000 lbs. That's pretty good, but the roof rack is limited to 75 lbs, which is kinda shabby. Towing is only 1,000 lbs. I frequently transport two greyhounds in mine. I've also loaded it with 800-1,000 lbs of people and hiking gear, but I don't tow anything. You might like the Subaru Forester or Ford Escape if you'll be towing.

    You should always be concerned about rollovers in any vehicle. It's no joke. However, the danger comes from the fact that a rollover creates a higher risk of being bounced around in, or even ejected from the cabin. Wear your seat belt and you'll significantly reduce the risk that a roll over will be anymore harmful than a similar "upright" accident.
  • varmitvarmit Posts: 1,125
    Oops, sorry for the duplicate info. Beatfarmer posted while I was still hunt-n-poking at the keyboard!
  • Hello. I purchased some remote entry transmitters off of ebay. They arrived with programming instructions, but I am not having luck so far. Basically, the instuctions say to sit in the car, turn on the ignition (not to the point of starting engine), hit the lock button on the remote, turn of ignition and then follow this same procedure four times total. On the fourth time it sounds as if all the doors are locking, but then the remote doesn't work. I've also tried another website but couldn't download the program to my outdated computer. So, can someone give me program guidelines over the message board. I really appreciate it.
  • reiner4reiner4 Posts: 24
    Not sure if these are the same programming steps you have, but the following is per the Honda Security System Manual I received with my '99 EX... here ya go.....

    Step 1: Disarm security system
    Step 2: Turn the ignition key to the 'ON' (II) position
    Step 3: Press the 'LOCK' or 'UNLOCK' button on the remote control transmitter
    Step 4: Turn the ignition key to the 'OFF' (0,I) position
    Step 5: Turn the ignition key to the 'ON' position
    Step 6: Press the 'LOCK' of 'UNLOCK' button on the remote control transmitter
    Step 7: Turn the ignition to the 'OFF' position
    Step 8: Turn the ignition to the 'ON' position
    Step 9: Press the 'LOCK' or 'UNLOCK' button on the remote control transmitter
    Step 10: Turn the ignition to the 'OFF' position
    Step 11: Turn the ignition to the 'ON' position
    Step 12: Press the 'LOCK' or 'UNLOCK' button on the remote control transmitter.
    a) The power door locks cycle to indicate programming mode. The Status LED illuminates simultaneously for 1 second
    b) To terminate the programming mode at this point , either turn the ignition key to the 'OFF' position or leave the remote's button untouched for over 10 seconds. To program the remote, perform steps 2 - 12
    Step 13: Press the 'LOCK' button of each remote (one at a time) to be stored in memory.
    a) The power door locks cycle to confirm each entry
    b) A button on each remote control transmitter to be programmed must be pressed. Perform the programming step within 10 seconds for each remote or else the programming mode will terminate.

    - Only 4 remotes can be stored in the system's memory
    - For steps 2 - 12, each step must be completed within 5 seconds. For Step 13, within 10 seconds for each remote
    - All remotes to be programmed must be on hand
    - A non-programmed remote will work for this procedure
    - Turn the ignition key to the 'OFF' position to complete the programming procedure.
  • Thanks so much for the programming assistance. I did get my door lock/unlock functions to work using that method. My trunk release does not work and I am open to any suggestions re that. I did fail to mention that I have the LX model, which may have something to do with it. Thanks again.
  • For the Hatch the button has to be held for at least one second before it will open.

  • When I purchased Honda Security system for 98 CRV I was told by Honda that the original remotes cannot be programmed to operate alarm, only the 2 included in the alarm kit could. Is this true?

  • Thanks to Beatfarmer and varmit for the info.

    Other things: How does the car handle? Are folks generally satisfied?

    Is the back door a pain to open with the window and then the door?

    Has anyone towed a small tent camper with a CRV?

    Any other ideas I should consider?? What are folks UNhappy with about the CRV? Thanks a lot!
  • quecoqueco Posts: 2
    OK, I'm still looking and here's my latest question....
    Honda CR-V, Subaru Forester or Toyota RAV 4? Please feel free to send answers to my
  • danl1danl1 Posts: 5
    Check this UK link. About halfway down the page.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Front end looks good but what's with the 140 bhp? The current motor already puts out 146.
  • varmitvarmit Posts: 1,125
    Cagney1 - Handling is very much like a modern minivan. It's better than most SUVs, but not quite as sharp as your average sedan. Basically, the only time you might have a problem is during emergency situations. Make sure you take advantage of the higher seating/better visibility to avoid those situations.

    The back door is great for my uses. I tote around two large dogs all of the time. I can lift the glass to give them air without allowing them to get out. The fact that it is hinged on the passenger side is problem for people who must load the car while parked at curbside. However, it's also easier for the driver to operate when getting out of the car and walking to the back (I don't have to walk all the way around the car and side step the door when it opens).

    Sorry, I've never towed anything. I do know of someone who tows an ATV frequently. I think they use it for their profession. They're comfortable with towing.

    Also take a look at the Forester, the new RAV4, and the Tribute.

    Queco - I'll email you as comparisons tend to get these forums a bit rowdy.

    Danl1 - Sorry to burst your bubble, but that photo is a standard CR-V with a bunch of aftermarket equipment added to it. If you like the look you can buy most of that stuff.
  • The steering feel is crisp and handling is quite good for an SUV. Body roll is appearent but not excessive. It tends to understeer when pushed hard (typical of most vehicles today). Doesn't lose its composure on rough surfaces.

    Don't tow either. Check for hitch reviews and trailering reports.
  • I've started the search for a small SUV. Been reading on all the chat lines and there is no eutopia. Rav4 feels small. Liked the drive of Escape, but scared of Ford/Mazda 1st car debut. I bought that before (MX6) 93 - one car listed as one not to buy. But it's lasted 9 years. Read CRV is scheduled for body change. Should I try to wait? I like Honda's reliability. How about the Highlander (Toyota) that I've read some about? Any help is appreciated. Looking for reliability, comfort, cargo space, not necessarily towing capability.
  • Hi guys,

    I have bought a 2001 CR-V SE for my wife and it has 6900 miles on it. CR-V is in excellent condition and has all the extras. However, my wife wants to have an Accord 2001 LX 4Cyl. So we're considering the idea of trading in this CR-V for the Accord. Could anyone tell me the pros and cons (besides losing money) and how to get a good trade in value from the dealer? Any ideas as to how much the trade in value will it be for this CR-V?
  • varmitvarmit Posts: 1,125
    Looking for reliability, comfort, cargo space, not necessarily towing capability.

    Reliability removes the Escape/Tribute from the list (zoom, zoom, boom). Cargo removes the RAV4 (actually there is space in there, you just have to remove the seats). That leaves comfort and cargo space.

    I'd recommend the CR-V or Forester. Both are reliable, safe, economical, and reasonably comfortable. The CR-V has the edge in price, backseat space, and cargo, but the Forester has a longer list of luxury options, good engine, and better AWD. Problems: The CR-V is loud and the Forester is ugly. The Highlander would be a great idea, but it's going to be considerably more pricey than the mini-utes. Good luck.

    rfarhaj - Try to sell your CR-V rather than trade it in.
  • Haven't been here for awhile.

    Is there any news on the updated 2002 CRV?

    Appreciate any responses...thanks?
  • Looking to buy an SUV. As well as being my compute car I want to go off road. No boulder chiming just gravel, rocky, rutted desert roads.
    Any input with personal experience would be greatly appreciated. I have one more criteria, the SUV has to weight less than 3500 bbs as I intend to tow behind my Motor Home.
  • varmitvarmit Posts: 1,125
    Basset3 - Sorry nothing new. I wouldn't expect reliable news until Summer of this year.

    Wantto4 - Depends on the terrain. The RAV4 has little ground clearance to overcome the rocks and ruts, but the option of a limited slip diffy might make it a better choice for sand, loose gravel, and/or mud. However, if traction is not your biggest worry, then the CR-V's better ground clearance would give it the advantage on uneven terrain. Both serve well as daily commuters.
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