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Please tell me you have found a cheap solution to this issue. This truck is paid for, and i can't see putting a new transmission in it, so a cheap fix would make it worthwhile, otherwise, i'm shopping for a new SUV.
How is the oil pressure at idle (600 RPM) when the engine is at operating temperature? If it is less than 7 lb., that is evidence the bearings have loose clearances. Engine oil pressure before the engine is at operating temperature means nothing.
I have a 97 chev blazer that is making whirring type noise ( seems to be comming from front driverside undercarriage with some vibration felt on driverside floor board ; over the last two years I have relaced both halfshafts ( fron axels) twice, new rotors/brakes, new wheel bearings twice on driverside and once on passager side, new U joints in main rear drive shaft; idler arm, driverside ball joints twice; passenger side balljoints once, new tires twice, new shocks front and back, I have taken it in for tire balance numerous times; with all mechanics advice still makes noise but has gotton louder the last few weeks; now I am preparing to drop front diffential and rebuild with bearing/seal kit; hoever I dont feel to enthusiasic or remotely sure if this is the provlem. This doen't include all of the other non related repairs I have done; WHAT A LEMMON! I paid way too much for it in the first place and then the value has dropped I suppose due to the poor reputation; I have poured $1000-$2000 total into it for repairs and it is still hungry; on the possitive side at least I am getting a lot of excercise. maybe I should just push it off a cliff rather than try and sell it and give someone else the pains and edless pit of repairs and $. Lesson learned; never judge a car by it's cover.
The whine or noise from the floor is probably coming from the 4WD transfer case. The transmission fluid in the transfer case should be checked and replaced at 10,000 mile intervals, and sooner depending on the use of the 4WD . NEVER use 4WD on sand or pavement and always use the same size tires with equal tire pressure on front and back. Good traction on pavement and uneven traction in sand will put a higher load on the unit and invite premature failure, sometimes within a few miles! The area around the transfer case selector switch should be inspected for leaks. Even if there is no evidence of leaks , the vacuum line assembly should be disconnected from the selctor switch and inspected for transmission fluid inside the vacuum lines. In August 2004, GM had a part number change on defective 4WD 3-port selector switches used on the transfer case with a green inspection mark. . The OEM switch should be replaced with the new 3-port switch which is GM part number 89059420 with a blue inspection mark . This switch fits the transfer cases on 1991 - 2005 Chevrolet S-series vehicles with 4WD. The vacuum lines are 1.) engine vacuum 2.) vent port and 3.) actuator (servo) vacuum line. The acutuator (servo) is located under the battery and it too can be defective. First determine if vacuum is getting to the servo before unit is replaced.
NOTE: When the fluid in the transfer case if changed, open the filler plug on the transfer case FIRST then open the drain plug and drain the transmission fluid. That is in case the fill plug is seized and cannot be opened. That will be rare but it is possible. Refill the transfer case with red Dextron III until transmission fluid it is at the filler plug level.The 1995-2005 S-series transfer cases should use green GM synthetic transmission fluid.
Sounds like it might be your halfshaft/driveshaft since it stops making noise when turning steering wheel; not a easy fix but neither is the hub bearing replacement; this repair could cost $600 or more if you take in in; but if you replace it on your own ( if you have the right tools) it would cost you $150-$300 for a new driveshaft depending on where you purchase it.
Thanks
On my 98 blazer I found out after replacing front drive axles, wheel bearings, 4x4 front differentail, ball joints, drive line universal joints etc. that it was still making noise and vibrating just as bad as before; I finally decided to remove the rear axles and found out the axle/wheel bearing had worn a deep grove in the rear axles; I purchased new rear axle shafts and bearings and installed them ( somewhat difficult process) and finally the problem was resolved; The vibration and noise was gone; I don't know if this is the problem with your blazer. I hope this helps
Thanks
Ammon
Kat
The fluid in the 4x4 transfer case on my 1991 S10 Blazer has never been changed and I see no sign of any leaks so I suppose the transmission fluid in the transfer case is probably just worn out. I changed the filter and fluid in my transmission recently and it was still bright red, meaning, it was good. I think the previous owner (my daughter) had the transmission fluid changed sometime since she bought the car in 1991. My 1991 S10 Blazer is in amazingly mint condition for a 18 yerar old car and even has the original spare and tire cover hanging on the tail gate.
Look on your glove compartment door for RPO code G80. If that code is on the RPO decal on the glove compartment door, you have the troublesome Gov-Loc differential.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
What should a new water pump cost, should it finally go out?
AC Delco 252-711 (new)
GM-88926225
$50
Rebuilt reverse flow water pumps vary from $35 - $50.
Note:
Chevrolet engines with a V-belt use a standard flow (cw) water pump.
And now for another problem.
Grandfather has a 94 GMC Sonoma. 4.3L vortec. We rebuilt the motor about a year and a half ago. it had spun a bearing and we bought it that way. Replaced the crank and had rods cut and new bearings all around. New knock sensor. Lately he noticed that at low RPM's the motor shakes pretty rough. plug on knock sensor was broke so i replaced it. same problem. this motor has a balance shaft in it and i fear it is something to do with that. any ideas are greatly appreciated. if more info is needed please let me know. once highway speed is reached shake goes away as long as you are on throttle. if pedal is in only a little shake is at its worst. i believe timing is good. 12 degrees one way or the other i dont remember. will check it again tomorrow. is my timing off? what should it be? truck still has plenty of power. blows smoke and smells real rich. please help.
A good source for used parts, converters included, is an eBay store named "s10warehouse".
I am in no way affiliated with these guys, other than having bought a LOT of used parts from them with very, very good service.
Haven't heard a peep in two years since changing the belt.
My Blazer has about 145,000 miles on it and the thermostatic controlled fan clutch which I think should be replaced even though it is not squeeking. That is because when the ambient temperature is over 95 degrees, the engine runs at 195 degrees but the engine temperature climbs to 200+ degrees when idling with the A/C on. I am not too concerned about the engine temperature but I feel like a new thremo-controlled fan clutch would keep the running and the idle temperature at 195 degrees.
The paint noise may be more rhythmic than what Blazeone is hearing though. The test, like you say, is to see if the noise goes away with some belt dressing.
The other clue was when starting out, no fan roar, which these little beasties are famous for.