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I bought the car and live in San Francisco and the hills can be brutal. This issue started on one of the steepest hills in the city on Sunday. I had to stop at a stop sign. When I tried to re-engage the clutch, I put my foot on the gas - nothing. I floored the gas - nothing. After a total of a second or two, I started to roll backwards and stalled. This happend twice. Traffic building up behing me, I pulled the emergency brake, revved the engine and engaged the clutch before I disengaged the brake. I made it through the intersection but seem to have done some damage - the engagement point on the clutch has definitely moved.
My first thought was that gas wasn't getting to the right place to get me through the intersection. I took it to the dealership and they say it is all the clutch.
I am very frustrated that I am already faced with replacing a clutch at 9 months. I am having a hard time accepting that it is possible to burn out a clutch on a single hill (which is what the dealership is telling me) and I know that I am not a bad driver. If I were a bad driver, two of my other three other cars would not have lasted 7-9 years with over 125K without issue. My first car was bought with 60K and I had to replace the clutch after 75K - I wasn't the first person to learn on it.
Has anyone else had an issue like this? Is it really possible to burn out a clutch on a hill?
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota with a V8, 5 speed and 201,000 miles that I beat the ever-living hell out of on a regular basis since the day I bought it new...and the transmission has never let me down. I bought a 2008 Civic LX MT in July and haven't had any problems out of it yet either (just turned 6,000 miles on the odometer).
I couldn't find it in the manual. Does anyone know how to get this reset??? Thank you!
Yep, this sounds familiar...I now have just under 30K or 18,000 miles on my '08 Civic. The clutch friction point has definitely shifted recently as well. I've seen others comment on engine hesitation and mine does the same thing but also "bogs" when the clutch is let out. I sometimes have to re-find the friction point to get going and I've actually stalled the car a couple of times in traffic. The clutch is wearing prematurely and actually starting to chatter now because of this. I too have never burnt out a clutch in any of my previous vehicles and I've had a bunch over the years. Dealer couldn't find anything wrong....first time I took it in. 51 mpg is my best tank and personally I think it's running too lean (too much air, not enough fuel) and this is causing everything above.
Good luck!
Page #226 in the '08 Civic manual but not sure if you have a Civic.
1) Turn ignition switch to the ON position
2) Press SEL/RESET button repeatedly until the engine oil life indicator is displayed
3) Press SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life and the maintenance item code(s) will blink.
4) Press the SEL/RESET button for more than 5 seconds. The maintenance item code will dissappear and the oil life will reset to 100.
Good luck!!!
Not with my Civic but with other cars in the past...they need to replace the windshield again. Just a bad piece of glass, it happens. Just make sure they check the new glass to make sure it's OK.
Cheers
I purchased a 2008 civic ex last December, new off the lot...as I drove off the tire pressure gage came on...over the next 6 mos I had major issues with the car starting, making a horrible grinding nose at times when it started, of course it never did it at the dealership so I recorded it and they replaced the starter and alternator belt but that did not fix the problem. Other times I would turn the key and nothing happened, just kind of a purring noise. The car took on water twice, front floor carpet soaked after rain, the first time they found a leak and said the car was not sealed right, new carpet, second time, could not find the leak, new carpet and finally Honda agreed to replace the vehicle. 10 trips to the dealership, 3 times in a rental...numerous calls to Honda in California, they even offered to pay my extended warenty if I agreed not to complain about the car anymore. So now I have a new car, same model just different color. I still notice on occasion when I turn the key to start it, it does not turn over the first time, just makes that purring noise or no noise at all.... has anyone else had this issue?
Wow, pretty sad really. Re: the "purring noise" when trying to start it...never heard of it. Sorry, can't help but it's a little strange that with both cars you've experienced the same thing. Just so I understand, did Honda indicate that you weren't allowed to complain about the new car? It needs to go back to the dealer.
Good luck!
To explain better.."When you turn on your computer," you just can't just go right in a click on the internet and go? OK, it is the same with the computer in the car.
Every vehicle I have owned since 1980 (that has had a computer in it) I will put the key in the ignition, turn it to the accessory or run position wait 1001, 1002, 1003....
then start the car. You are doing 2 things when taking the time to start the car.
1. The fuel pump needs time to charge the fuel system. (when you turn the key on listen for a whiring or buzzing for a second or two.) If you don't understand then have a friend or relitive sit in the driver seat. With the door closed key off (best in the moring when the engine is cold) open the gas cap and listen for the fuel pump
when they turn the key on you should hear the pump spin up and stop 2-4 seconds.
If you don't have this extra helper and you can't hear with the door closed and windows up....... OK, OK roll down the window, if you still can't hear the pump, window down and gas cap open.... Still can't hear it... (your Deaf like me and....... Oh, crap I just about told you how old I am.......) I hope you get the jest......
2. The COMPUTER>>>> when you turn the key on to the run possition, (This is the one with the funny little pictures on the dash that light up.) The battery is now powering the electrical system. This is a good time to make sure the lights are working ( on the dash) and if done every morning (afternoon / evening for you Day Sleepers) After a few seconds the bell might stop doing that annoying ding....and a couple of those lights might turn off. NOW you are giving the computer a chance to
power up and talk to the engine and say " Ready to Start!" for those of you who think I am Crazy I was just using that as a medifor (OK, I can't spell either!)
I hope this enlightens everyone who reads it. If anyone has a question...(There are no Stupid Questions, just not all answers make everyone Happy...)
E-mail me at Apachedoc@aim.com.
Oh,yea that purring noise, because turning the car on too fast this might be the Evaportvie Emmissions System (EVAP) doing its' bleed thing to keep raw gasoline vapers escaping into the air and doing icky to the enviornment....
I agree that the fuel pump could be the creator of the noise (purring) but would suggest that fuel pressure should remain in the system (assuming all is in working order) and therefore you can start the car immediately. The pump shouldn't need to cycle and any pump activity is only to produce maximum pressure to the system as per the regulator. The injectors don't require full system pressure to release fuel into the system so the car will start fine...immediately. Keep in mind that ambient temps. between evening and early morning can be fairly drastic (where I live) and temps. have an effect on pressure and this may be causing the purring you refer to as the pump cycles (although it should be really hard to hear if it's working correctly).
As for the electronics, the system is almost instantaneous (milliseconds) and therefore there is no need to wait to start. Yes, your 1988 would have had an EFI system as well although less efficient than what is in the market today.
Just my opinion guys.
Cheers
When I go to start it from a cold start, it wont turn over. The only way to get it to start it to leave it cranking for several seconds.
My gas milage is not so hot. I only get 22-24 mpg (most of my milage is highway). This is very disappointing since I was getting 18-22 mpg with my 2007 Mazda CX-7 AWD SUV and turned it in soely because I wanted something with better gaas milage. I miss my AWD. Winters in Ohio suck.
My gas gauge is wacked. I'll have four little blocks on my gas gauge and in about 20 miles I will have none. I can go 10 miles from the time my light goes on to having no blocks. Is this normal? I am used to being able to drive for a bit with my light on.
The radio is staticy at times and sounds like I'm listening to it through a tin can.
When I brake sometimes the ABS goes off for a second. Eventhough I'm on dry pavement and do not appear to be slipping.
I contacted my dealership. I asked about the gas problems. The dealership said was normal. The fuel milage they blamed on it only having 3300 miles and said it hasn't been broken in yet and it will get better. She said the not turning over is probably because of my fuel (I have used a wide variety of brands of fuel without any change) and that it was nothing to worry about. I didn't even bring up the other problems because I figured I would just be blown off with some excuse.
Anyone else experience any of this?
Do you have an option for Honda dealerships where you are? I'm so sick of the dealers just brushing off the problems that consumers encounter instead of spending the time to investigate and repair. The fuel mileage is not right. My '08 Civic gets close to 40 mpg and has since day one. Tell the dealer to "re-flash" the ECU, and I mean the shop foreman and/or service manager, not the service writer that obviously doesn't have a clue. The hard starting is also abnormal and it may be addressed with the advice above. If not, tell the dealer to check the fuel pump pressure and volume although they should be doing that given the symptoms. Your car should start instantly, with almost no cranking and cranking as you describe. All of your electrical problems (radio feedback and poor sound, your gas guage etc.) might be related but the dealer needs to address them. The ABS is likely urrelated to the radio and the fuel guage but they had better address it since it is potentially a safety issue. Borrow a loaner car (preferably a 2009 Accord demo) and don't give the keys back until you are completely satisfied. Tell the dealer that if all items aren't addressed this time with a reasonable explanation, that you will escalate your concerns to Honda USA. Infact, maybe do that first if you think that the dealer is going to waste your time again. Perhaps they would like to contact me so that I can assist with the repairs???? I can't believe it and hope that anyone else that views this is equally as frustrated...and it's not even my car....my '78 civic was a much better car that my '08 so I'm using your problems as a bit of a sounding board....sheeesh!!!
Good luck and let me know the outcome.
Paul :mad: :mad: :mad:
With those types of problems, you should go to other dealers until you find one that will service you well. The service department gets paid from Honda for factory warranty repairs, and some dealers will be happy to hustle for the cash no matter where you bought the car. I'd do this instead of complaining to your first dealership. Might as well find a dealer that actually believes in service, then complain so that somone handles your problems begrudgingly.
The gas gauge is ridiculous. 20 miles left when on 4 blocks---something is out of calibration. I can get all the way down to zero blocks before it runs out of gas.
I am disappointed also.
My 06 got about 45 mpg on highway and 32-33 locally My 09 (with now 8000 miles) get 40 mpg highway and 29-30 locally. This is my major complaint and I plan to take it to the dealer I bought it from this week.
I plan to talk to the dealer about some of the comments posted by another person in response to the same question I am responding.
I was disappointed that the hood did not have any sound insulation on the 09 but don't know how much it would affect the noise level.
However, FYI, I learned on my 06 that I should replace the tires with the same as the OEM tires (Bridgestone) or lose MPG. I changed to a Yokohama tire and my mpg immediatedly went down about 10%. Six thousand miles later, my tire dealer removed the Yokohama tires and replaced them with the new OEM tires. My mileage immediately went back up 10%.
Ernest1934
Good luck to you at the dealership. Regarding the tires and the difference in mileage, likely the OEM tires had a higher inflation pressure than the others??...and by the way, there is absolutely no need to stick with the OEM brand in order to get the best mileage....anyway, I have to go to the dealership and see if my 08 Civic is ready.
Cheers,
Paul
I bought my 2009 Civic in November of last year and I'm having the same starting problem. In fact, I found your post while doing some research to see if this is a common occurence. I was unhappy (*and* happy) to see your note. I first took my car in at 319 miles, and now, today, at about 2000 miles. (Yes, I drive a lot.)
My car does a similar thing in the morning, particularly if I've driven it some distance the day before. If it cranks *at all*, it takes MUCH longer than it should -- at least first thing in the morning. (To note: twice now it didn't crank at all, but the dash lights came on.) Throughout most of the day, it generally starts quickly, but I tend to think it cranks one too many times. I've taken it to one dealership. They are more than happy to help, but they have no idea what is wrong. (They *did* acknowledge that it cranks too much.) I just received a call from the dealership, and they're putting in a NEW (albeit, refurbished) battery. (Goodgod!)
Also, I did notice my gas mileage seemed awful with my first tank or two. That seems to have fixed itself, at least with the tank I monitored recently.
I have not, however, had the same issues with my radio or my ABS. With ANY of the problems you're having, I suggest going to another dealership. These problems can cause major damage down the road ... and once you're out of warranty, you're, uh, up the creek without a paddle. I'm taking my car in as frequently as possible. That way its documented in case this turns into something scary (and hairy) down the line.
Or, maybe it's the curse of being named Liz?
Signed,
Liz in California
Does anyone know of the noise though, it sounds like plastic is rubbing together or something, but mine only happens when I am on a bumpy road or dirt road.
PLEASE HELP
What seems to be going on and will the solution be $$$
As far as the wipers go, that is normal. They all have that "click".
Good luck!
Yes, same thing with mine. 2008 Civic. At about 15,000 km's, the right front wheel bearing came loose to the point where the brake backing plate was rubbing on the brake rotor and it made a screeching noise and vibrated. The dealer tech road tested it and said nothing wrong. I insisted they drive it again with me in the car and they heard what I was complaining about. They tightened it (probably should have replaced the bearing assembly) and then had the audacity to tell me me that I had a separated tire...that was not their problem. Nice try.....it wasn't a tire but seemed fine afterward. There were no notes for this specific complaint or a work order opened for some reason.
And, most recently, (approx. 35000 Km's) when the car hit any type of ridge in the road, it took off in either direction....highway or city driving. It had been gradually getting worse and I suspected that the right rear bearing assembly or a suspension piece was loose. Again, it was tightened. Nothing was replaced (I checked) and there was nothing indicated about something being loose on the work order. As well, they deflated my tire pressure from 40 to 30 psi for some reason but anyway, it doesn't change lanes by itself any longer so we're all a little safer. My mileage has dropped significantly (expected when you drop what the tire manufacturer's recommended pressure by 10 psi), so I'll reinflate the tires in the next couple of days.
The bottom line for you is that there is something loose. You should take to a dealer immediately to have inspected. Be sure they note the complaints regarding suspension noise and/or steering issues on your work order. Just my opinion but something tells me that Honda has a problem that could cost them a great deal of money if there are enough complaints or worse, injuries. It may sound dramatic but having a wheel assembly come loose on the highway would also be fairly dramatic.
Incidentally, I have been a licensed mechanic for close to 30 years. Almost hate to say it to a fellow Civic owner but my 978 Honda Civic was a better car than my 2008.
Hope this helps and good luck!
I haven't been on in a while!! I hope the new battery fixes your problem. At least they tried something. This is the second time now.... I just took my car in ( and left it there overnight, but of course it started fine this morning and so they won't even look into what is wrong. I took it to a different dealership in hopes that they would actually do something. They say the radio works fine (in their garage... they should really take it for a drive) and they blame the bad gas milage on the "winter" blend gases that the gas companies are using. They make me feel like I'm crazy. I'm really not.... I've had two people witness the starting problem, lol!! I guess I'll wait a little longer till something major goes wrong. I just worry because lemon laws run out in one year and I worry that I have one. This isn't my first new car, but it's the first one I've ever had problems with.
Thanks for the post! I'll have to see about how it reacts if I drive far the night before. I didn't notice a trend, but I do drive a lot too! I have 5000 miles and I've only had my car since October.
Liz!!
The Sandman
My new concern is TSB 08-044 on the cracked engine block. My concern is that with the used engine going into my car I may not be eligible for the "goodwill warranty" that honda may provide if I have a future problem with a cracked engine block. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions on this? I feel like I should be getting an entire new engine, but don't know if that is going to happen.
And you feel you should get a new engine? Heck, why not ask for a brand new car? IMO you are being totally unreasonable.
Still a great little car.
The Sandman
Can you tell me how you found this information about '08 Civic T.S. B. possible cracked engine block around cooling chambers?
Thank you
teeva
is slower to warm than I like. Also, in very cold weather (which doesn't happen much here
in Washington) the windshield or dash made lots of crackling noise until it warms up.
Anyway, my question is on two separate occasions when I went to shift the car into park to get out the shifter knob and shifter shaft were very warm to touch. Is this normal?
These are just some of the problems incurred in 24,000 miles.
Better check your recall list!
The Sandman :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
hot day with the sun just hitting the shifter right but today my daughter gets in and the
passenger door makes this horrible noise when she opens it and we look and the door is
flush at the top but off about a half inch or inch on the bottom front so it is rubbing the surrounding area. Wierd!
So I guess I will take it in this week for the first time. I have had it (3500 miles) 9 months but only drive a few miles to work and it has never had its first oil change so I guess we'll knock out two birds at once.
Haven't had any real issues yet besides this door thing. Been happy with it so hope it
lasts a long time.