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Comments
-Paul
2006 JEEP WRANGLER POWER TRAIN:CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Recall Date: 05/03/2006
Summary:
ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER LINKAGE ROD MAY BREAK. THIS MAY NOT ALLOW DISENGAGEMENT OF THE CLUTCH WHEN THE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED.
Consequence:
UNINTENTIONAL VEHICLE MOVEMENT, INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCE, AND ENGINE STALLING COULD OCCUR WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER LINKAGE ROD FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON AUGUST 7, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.
Potential Units Affected: 6876
I called them when I first read this, which was some time ago. I did not have the "click" problem but wanted to know if my Jeep fell into the recall dates. They said that my Jeep was made a month or so after the recall date. A bad batch..maybe but now I hear a click and wonder if that is the sound it makes when it is defective..?
Any help would be appreciated
Mac may have an idea as to what it is, but I know I sure don't.
My 97's clutch is very quiet and works like a champ!
-Paul
"Hydraulic Cluth Fluid - Manual Transmission - The clutch hydraulic system is a sealed maintenance free system. In the event of leakage or other malfunction, the system must be replaced." The engine compartment illustration shows no reference to a clutch fluid cylinder.
When I look inside the engine compartment, I see a small cylinder next to the master brake cylinder. The small cylinder cap embossment says "Use DOT 3 Brake Fluid Filled to the Neck Line". I followed the tube from the cylinder down to a metal cylinder attached to the transmission. From these observations, I've deduced this is the clutch fluid cylinder.
Question #1 - Is the owner's manual wrong and the clutch fluid system is not "sealed" or am I observing some other element of the vehicle I'm unaware?
Question #2 - Inside the cylinder is a removable, cone-shaped rubber bladder pointing down into the fluid reservoir with a very small hole at the end of the cone. Do you check the fluid level with the rubber bladder removed or should you add fluid to the inside of the rubber bladder cone cavity while it's emersed down into the reservoir fluid?
I'm asking these questions since I'm starting to think my novice manual shift skills have improved and I can no longer blame myself for "harsh" shifting. Granted, I suspect Jeeps are not going to be nice and smooth like a small car but I do get a catching feel in the gates of the shifter itself in gears 1 to 3. I wondered if the clutch pedal isn't fully disengaging the clutch as I feel slight resistance in the shifting to 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears and borders on being slighty "scratchy" trying to move through those lower gears. 4th, 5th, and 6th seem smoother and the stick seems to smoothly drop into each of those positions.
I will take it to dealership for warranty check on my transmission concerns (just read previous post about slight whining noise with clutch not depressed while in neutral...failing throwout bearing??). Just wondered if there's some obvious low-fluid issue I can address first myself. That's what lead me to seeing that clutch cylinder and not seeing it mentioned in the ower's manual let alone how to properly read/adjust the fluid levels in there with that rubber bladder inserted.
The most difficult part for most people is learning to do a hill start. It's easier on a vehicle with a hand brake of course.
If the hydraulic reservoir needs topping up then you have a leak, which is rectified by replacing the the master cylinder/slave cylinder/hose assembly. Fortunately, your warranty will cover it at present.
Actually, if you have got a six speed that could be the problem if five speed clutch components are being used.
Otherwise, I'm not really sure. The release bearing is a fairly large item and it's hard to imagine it becoming worn to the extent that the fork will contact the pressure plate. Possibly an issue with the clutch fork pivot?
The pivot should be a ball head stud, so make sure someone hasn't replaced it with a bolt. As the piston stroke can't grow on its own, it can only be changed by being replaced with a different item.
The master/hose/slave is supposed to be one sealed unit, but there are some conversions out there to replace the slave on its own. It should be obvious if the slave has been changed, and if so that may be the cause of the problem. I have no reference for the stroke length, so comparison is the only real check.
Four rotors, which if they need to be replaced will be cheaper at the dealer (i.e. free), and you won't have to pay any labor either.
No it's not normal, which is why your warranty should take care of it.
Your JEEP has Chryslerfied.
Enjoy.
Either go to another dealer, or contact DC directly.
There should be information in your Owners Manual on who and how to contact.
My front rotors are gauged (from wheeling and getting stuff stuck). I haven't replaced em since I got the TJ, so I'll be putting on some good quality rotors from NAPA and getting some good performance brake pads (since I have larger tires).
I don't think the quality of the pads coming from DC is really that good. We had a similar problem with our old Grand Cherokee.
For the cost of some new rotors and pads (less than $150 or so), you can swap out your front rotors and not even deal with DC about it. It'll likely happen again if you do deal with them.
-Paul
Chrysler is going broke again.
Getting ready to raid the corp. again.
Maybe some day JEEP will be owned by Jeepers again...
Sounds like you talked to a good guy, trying to do the right thing.
Sometimes big companies tend to get rid of the good guys.
Good luck, really hope it works out.
However, as you've continued to run your Jeep when it was indicating a terminal problem, is there really much point in fixing the gauge issue? Having an accurate gauge is only useful if you're going to take notice of it. :sick:
Does the starter engage and spin the crank?
You also are wondering if it is the fuel pump.
Are you getting fuel at the injectors?
Ignition module.
If you have no spark that is where I would start.
Do you really not have spark or can you just not see it.
If you are trying to look at spark in the daylight it's pretty hard to see.
If you have a friend dumb enough have him hold the spark plug while you crank the engine over.
Have a cold beer handy because if you are getting spark you will need a peace offering.
It is also a good thing to be faster or bigger than this x-friend.
Just as a guess I think the most likely problem starting up one of these fine JEEPs after a 3 month hibernation would be the fuel.
I would try priming the vehicle.
Try pouring a little fuel down the throat and crank the engine over.
If it starts then a lack of fuel is the problem.
You might have to do this several times.
Remember gasoline is dangerous.
Use only a little and use common sense.
It can hurt you as bad as a friend that you just subjected to electrical shock.
Good luck.
Burntup
Dead battery? Checked
Does it turn over?
Spark? No? Check the wiring from the battery. Rodents sometimes eat through or if your battery had issues, the acid could eat through em. Trust me on this one.
Do you have gas? If so, how much was in there? Check the schrader valve on the driver side and see how much gas, if any comes out.
But it sounds more electrical than anything. With no spark, I'd suspect: Battery, wires, distributor, starter. If your Jeep as a distributor, open it up and check for broken parts in the cap.
-Paul
auto trans, genuine gas hog. Has anyone foung a way to improve gas mileage.???? Clue me in.
So what mpg are you getting? How are you calculating it, and have you checked the accuracy of your odometer?
Best mileage will be obtained by a combination of vehicle condition and driving technique.
Clean air filter, clean and correctly gapped plugs, properly inflated tires, brakes that aren't dragging, synthetic lubricants, etc., etc.
Aftermarket accessories like bumpers, tire carriers, winches, roof racks etc., all contribute to poorer mpg through added weight and wind resistance.
You don't have to drive slowly everywhere, but heavy braking and acceleration will hurt. Good driving technique includes anticipating traffic and stop lights. Keep rolling at all costs, and keep top speed below 60mph. Use A/C and electrical accessories sparingly.
So again, what mpg makes you consider your '02 a gas hog?
Doubtless we'll now be constantly hearing that someone read on a forum 'somewhere' that '06 TJs definitely only have a 12/12 warranty. :shades:
I am an experienced driver and use correct driving policies. Still no change in mileage. I have driven Jeep products for many years, and find this one to be the worst in gas usage, am just looking for any tech way to improve it.
-Paul
I disagree. The 3.73 is very well matched to the characteristics of the automatic transmission when used with tire sizes up to 31".
Even if an increase of 3-4mpg were possible, it would take a very long time to recover the expenses incurred for the purchase and installation of the parts required for re-gearing two axles, even at todays gas prices.
The Wrangler's floor gets pretty hot as it is. Without carpets you couldn't put your bare feet on it. Allowing it to get many times hotter won't benefit you in any way.
Very Helpful!