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Do not ask about warranty on the phone. Make an appointment for the repair. This makes you a customer, not just a "looky-lou" bugging them on the phone.
Look for the old mellow dude in service. He is probably the one who can help you.
I had a cat. replaced at a Dodge dealer (brand new high volume bright shiny place). Three days in the shop. I paid the whole bill.
A month later the truck was still not running right. Stopped in to an old Chrysler Dealer. Red brick and wood floors. Some of the furniture looked like it was from the 40s.
They told me the wrong Cat. was on the truck and was causing the problem. They replaced the Cat. muffler and tailpipe, tune-up and an oil change. No charge. Took about 40 minutes.
Good luck,
150 deg. and 190 degs
If you drive through it everything is fine. If I go to the mall and park it for a while it starts all over again. Going down the road it only last for 300 - 400 yards. Watching the temp change it goes away before 210 on the gage.
Any ideas?
Scott
It has all the aerodynamics of a brick with a sail.
13-15 mpg is about all it will ever get.
Anybody that tells you they do better just lie.
The same motor in a Cherokee will do about 20 mpg.
You pay to play.
Probably terminal.
You can watch it die a slow and painful death.
It would be better to do a Dr.K on it.
1 high velocity 240 grain 44 caliber round in the throttle body should do the trick.
Looking for any advice.
Any ideas?
Any advice? :confuse:
Generally, the nice thing about the 32RH transmission is that it reached the peak of it's development with the Wrangler. With the exception of rare QC problems which will usually show early in its life, the 32RH can usually be expected to last the life of the engine, which can easily be up to and beyond 250K miles.
The exceptions are when it's contaminated, usually by water, when it's abused, usually by overheating, and when its servicing is neglected.
Servicing is simple, cheap, and often ignored. It consists of fluid and filter changes, preferrably at 12k mile intervals, with band adjustment at the same time.
That's it!
If you want some extra insurance, especially if you tow, then add a transmission cooler and external filter for less than $100 in parts.
Had the relay and fuses that you replaced actually failed, and if so, did the new ones fail too?
No, relay and fuses ended up being fine and the new ones haven't failed.
I take it you're using a link to bypass the relay. So, it sounds as if the circuit from the relay to the blower is good, and if the relay is also good, then the fault lies in the circuit that activates the relay. In that case, the most likely suspect is the switch itself. Just use a multimeter to check it.
Failure of the slow speeds is usually related to a resistor failure, but a faulty switch may also do it. If you're lucky a new switch will fix both issues, but check it before changing it. If it's not the switch, it'll be an open circuit in the wiring between the switch and the relay.
Finally, although it's unlikely your tires will fall off, you should get it checked out as soon as possible. It shouldn't be too expensive to fix and it won't get better on its own.
A faulty CPS should throw a code. At least check before replacing it.
It is not safe.
Who ever said it is safe is an idiot.
You need to find another dealer to fix this thing the right way.
A drive line problem that is so bad the whole car shakes can kill you.
It's an unusual failure and I'm wondering what caused it in the first place.
Hah! That is so true.
-Mike
I have a 2005 Wrangler Unlimited with 22,000 miles. I've always had the dealer doing oil/lube every 3,000 miles but I wanted to start doing routine maintenance myself. I did the oil change using Quaker State Synthetic 4x4 "Torque Power" (sale at Menards got me into it) with a new Quaker State oil filter.
Here's my question...I wasn't sure exactly the "right way" to do the lubrication part of the process. I'd like to know the proper way to do a "lube job" on a vehicle.
I bought Pennzoil Premium Wheel Bearing 707L Red Grease to be sure I met the manufacturer specifications in the user manual (Pennzoil fact sheet showed it being used for all wheel and chassis lubrication and meeting the specs in my user manual for chassis lubrication). I bought a grease gun and a rubber extension tube.
During my first attempt, I found maybe five or six zerks on the bottom sides of steering control arm component joints which I cleaned and gave a few pumps. I noticed the rubber covering on each (are those called bushings?) bulge a little with each pump of the grease gun. I didn't want to do more than a few pumps of the handle for fear I was "stretching" that rubber "balloon" and might damage it.
1 - Should I pump in the grease until I see the rubber cover start to expand or is that already too much if it starts to expand?
2 - Should I keep pumping until I see some old grease come out from somewhere?
3 - Should I keep pumping until I see new grease come out to indicate I've "flushed-out" the old grease?
4 - How many zerks should I be finding on the front end of a Wrangler?
5 - Are there any zerks in the rear end I need to lubricate?
6 - Are there any places I need to grease that don't have zerks and you just have to rub it on?
7 - I see zerks on top and bottom of the front wheel hubs where the axle connects to them...I squeezed some grease into those but in hind-sight wondered if those are the "wheel bearing" zerks and I shouldn't have done that.
You guys are always so helpful that I should have asked first before trying but I didn't know what to ask until I got under the Jeep and tried it. Thanks for any help.
-My jeep will out of nowheres start shaking really bad. To the point where I have to stop. The whole thing shimmies violently its hard to keep the stearing wheel under control. I cant take it on highways anymore. Does any one know what to do about this?
Have you done anything to it? Lift, new tires, balance, rotation, etc?
Specs on it would help.
My first inclination is to rotate and/or balance the tires. After that, check all steering components (track bar, drag link, tie rod (and ends), etc for looseness and tighten up to proper torque spec.
-Paul
At times JEEP will shake for different reasons.
Some times more violently than others.
Most often these shakes are because JEEP misses the dirt.
If you and JEEP do not spend enough time off road Jeep will have Dusty Trail Withdrawal Shakes. DT's for short.
Whenever JEEP gets the DT's it is best to head for the trail. If there is no trail near just jump a curb and let JEEP wander across any unpaved surface. This will delay the sever DT's but is only a stop-gap measure.
For a long term solution it is best to cancel you insurance throw away you tags and drivers license. Rip off JEEP's top and leave the paved surfaces behind.
Topless in the dirt is best for JEEP and Jeeper.
You and JEEP will be much happier.
...or balance your tires.
JEEP forever...forever JEEP.
As per post 974, check all steering components for looseness
Check tire pressures
Go to "Jeep Wrangler" (the main discussion in this forum) and search under "death wobble" for many posts - recently post 22851 and others nearby
Lifts can aggravate wobble
1 - I usually pump until it expands, then give it two or three more depending on how swollen the boot is.
2 - No, but don't worry if grease does come out. Just stop pumping at that point.
3 - No, because it's not flushing all the old grease out, just lifting the boot at its weakest point.
4 - Seven (from memory).
5 - No.
6 - Not really. You can grease handbrake and t/case linkages if you want, but it will retain dirt/grit and may do more harm than good.
7 - Those zerks are for the joints and not the wheel bearings (which are sealed). You were correct to lube them.
Occasionally you'll find 'u' joints that have been replaced with one that have a zerk. If so, then grease them until it starts to come past the seals. Same applies if you find zerks in the slip joints on the propshafts.
Don't worry about a boot splitting when you're pumping. It just means the boot was at the end of its life anyway, and better it splits when you can see it rather than on the road when you can't.
In addition, asked a previous question about my blower fan only working on high. I replaced the resistor pack behind the glove box, but I still have the same problem, and from reading through the posts, it seems that I have to replace the switch, but I'm not sure where this is located, or what part I need to get.
Thanks for the help; I finally have a place to go to get some good advice on how to work on my jeep.
its a 1998 wrangler sahara with full doors...
i am told i will not need a throwout bearing. is this correct???
i also believe, i need a pilot bearing as i have changed these on every old manual trans i have changed.
will i have any problems with an upgrading to a centerforce 2 clutch?? any chance of it blowing out my slave cylinder?
thanks in advance for any advice
cheers
If not, LEAVE IT ALONE.
If it is, the OEM Jeep pieces should work fine.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
another thing...my rubi does not like maintaining highway speed up a CA Highway 15 incline without down shifting.
these are the reasons i am considering replacing the clutch.
thanks & cheers
It's normal to have to change down on an incline as fifth is effectively an overdrive gear.
If changing the clutch will give you peace of mind for the journey.........go for it.
i have taken your advice before and it was right on.
so would it be in my best interest to change it?
P.S. would it help my fuel economy any?
i have taken your advice before and it was right on.
Flattery is always appreciated!
Clutch life is related to both load and technique.
At 90k your clutch could either be close to the end of its life, or barely halfway through.
However, I think it would be in your best interest to change it, regardless of the condition of the clutch. If you don't you'll be worrying about it every time you hit a hill or a headwind, which is going to really spoil your trip.
Finally, it'll only help your fuel mileage if your present clutch is already slipping.