I'm thinking about dumping mine at the end of break-in. Top Tier is for gasoline I think. GM apparently has a special requirement for oil though, and I'll have to check if major brands meet it. There was some talk of one of the synthetics exceeding Mobil 1, but don't remember which. I'm currently thinking Valvoline because of that very long warranty they offer, but will need to check just what is covered. I don't want an oil that will allow premature wear or failure of seals. You mention HVAC setting. Mine does not seem to be accurate for cooling, requiring a much cooler setting, 72-74, than I'm used to. Even though it is supposed to auto detect bad air, I keep set at recirculate to keep bad smells & pollen out, yet sometimes I get a bad whiff making me wonder how effective the filter is or if it is not completely shutting off outside air.
I ran my ~89 octane tank down a bit closer to empty before my Wed trip, couldn't reach the Shell station noted before and had to stop at a Sunoco on the NJ Tpke. I was getting about 28.8 mpg highway before the fill (zeroed at trip start on first highway leg). The overall average before the fill was about 23 on the DIC (21.9 via manual calc) for about 60/40 road-city driving.
I filled with 91 octane and paid up +24c/gal-too much!- more than the $2.70/gal regular. The rest of the trip on the tpke averaged only about 27.5 mpg which was a bit disappointing. Actually the better performance was with a no-name (East Coast) that I've used for years with no problems.
So, either I got a bad batch of gas on the tpke or my earlier conclusion on the advantage of 91 is not holding. I might do one or two more checks -if the price premium is right.
In an earlier life working for a refiner, the word was not to buy more octane than your car needed to run knock free. The rest of the "story" was marketing. I've followed that on about 5 vehicles since then with no problems. So maybe thats what I'll wind up doing on the LaCrosse.
In auto mode it should function like that. You can manually chose where it vents on CXS. Don't know about CXL, but probably if you have the dual zone system.
Generally the way the system works in auto mode is that with heat, the majority of the air should come out the bottom. As the cabin warms, cooler air will mix in up top to the dash vents. Only oif you manually set the vents to the dash should you get hot air out of them.
I had the seat module replaced in my 2011 CXS on October 9th. I almost hate to write this down for fear of jinxing things, but the seat has behaved perfectly ever since!
Two new things, though...
First, every fourth or fifth time I start the car, I hear a fairly loud clunking noise. My husband is convinced that it's a backfire-type sound - but it sounds more metallic to me. Has anyone else had this happen? Since it's such an intermittent problem, I haven't brought it in yet... any suggestions?
Second, I recorded my first CD to the hard drive last night. Love that feature, but was disappointed to see that it didn't take with it any of the artist/album/song info... did I do something wrong? Or have you all seen that, too?
Regarding, your new items, yes I've just started to note that 'clank' sound at start at about the same frequency. There seems to be no effect on driveabilty. I will check with the dealer on the next visit.
I have mainly transferred mp3s ripped from my own CD library and from previously purchased music from a Sony online music source in Sony ATRAC format, also converted to mp3s. These were in individual CD named folders and artist/album/song info was retained upon transferring them from a USB flash drive.
I hadn't tried direct recording from CDs to the HD (afraid without knowing the format used, it might not use a compressed format and could be using a lot of HD space). As I had a couple of spare minutes, I just sarted to record an album. It seems a bit slow so I stopped after the second track. The artist/album/songs were saved and played ok.
My 2010 CXS has the intermittant clanging / bang sound immediately as the engine catrches upon starting. The dealer wants the car overnight and I am putting it off until I need a service at 5,000 miles (tire rotation and oil change). I had it inspected once already at 1000 miles.
At 1600-1800 miles, the noise seemed related to morning cold starts. It still occured under all engine and ambient temp conditions, probably every 7th start.
Now, at 3100 miles, it has become infrequent and is one in about 12-15 starts. There is no noticeable correlation to temp.
Another poster claimed that his exhaust and a long baffle had to be replaced to rid his car of the problem.
My dealer claims to have never heard of this before. I don't have any confidence in Suburban Caddilac Buick of Troy.
I agree - no effect on driveability - I'll talk to my dealer, too, and will re-post with any response.
I, too, have transferred mp3s and all the info was retained. I'll try another CD this weekend and see if I have better luck. Everything plays just fine that I recorded yesterday, but it seems odd to not have the artist/song info...
Interesting - I'm at 1500 miles, and haven't noticed any real change in frequency. I shared this forum with my dealer, and will fill him in on these experiences to see if it can assist in diagnosing the issue.
They replaced the seat module... I don't use easy exit, and I'm the only driver, so the only thing I've noticed is that the seat doesn't randomly move on it's own before I get in anymore. So it's a perfect fix for me!
The CD I copied is just a regular music CD that was just released last week. I can't imagine that it wouldn't have the artist/song info embedded with the tracks. In any event, I am">link title going to try another CD today to see if I have more success. Will post an update later...
I have the seat update on my 2010 CXS and it works. When I turn off the motor and open the door the seat moves back to the far position. When I get to the car, open the door there is a slight pause (should be longer) before the seat moves to the set position. Getting out and hitting the buttons does not do anything.
Sometimes when I get in the seat has a touch farther to go and if necessary I correct by pausing the #1 button. The most it moves would be less than an inch.
The seat has a built in feature that will automatically stop if it hits something on the floor blocking the movement. I wonder if when I set down if this triggers the stop. Have not verified this.
I don't know what determines when it has arrived at memorized location. The remote puts mine in a very reclined position about 50% of the time. And I have ended up cycling the easy exit more than once. Instead of it deciding it was in the proper location, it decides to go back even farther.
Have you had the new program installed by a dealer. All that have had it installed and have reported here have no more problems. Seems to work as it should.
Sales of GM's Buick LaCrosse saw the largest percentage increase of all locally produced vehicles, with 4,432 delivered in October, up 37.3 percent from 3,073 in October 2009. (Source: Kansas City Business Journal )
Programed door locks to unlock automatically "driver door only" and tried setting it "Off". If I lock the doors and set the alarm with the fob, and the fob is in my pocket all the doors can still be opened by pulling the handles. How is this safe? Dealer could not correct the problem. Anyone approaching the vehicle on the passenger side can open the doors at their free will. Has anyone experienced this problem? I have a 2010 Lacrosse CXL.
Now that the point has been brought up, I suspect mine is operating this way. I shall have to check and make sure it is not sensing the presence of FOB at passenger side. That is I'll leave FOB at driver's door and see what happens. When you open driver's door is it unlocking all the others? You'd notice the lock button come up. I know that opening passenger door only, manually, autounlock set, it unlocks the rear doors presuming someone wants to get in rear. Since this would seem to be software programming it could certainly be another choice item. I'm still hoping someone will leak what OS is being used and how to access it via a laptop at USB port. At this point I'm beginning to worry that it is some Chinese system, proprietary at that.
Thanks, that is good to know. I shall also continue to hope there is some method of programming it with new firmware or possibly software. GM would be more likely to bring forth more updates/fixes.
I tested. Put FOB on ground by driver door. Unlocked and checked passenger side doors. Driver side, rear door will open and then automatically unlocks doors other side. Passenger side doors remain locked, all combinations unless your open rear driver side. Peculiar behavior of seat memory did occur. Open driver door, set moved ahead. Cycling through a second time moved seat to easy exit. I noticed that it seemed to be straining like maybe cold has made grease stiff. I heard the relay kick out when it stopped and it might not be quite as far back as normal. After that it ceased movement when cycling doors with auto unlock. This seems to hint of possible errors and also suggests that positioning related to FOB might be in conjunction with timer relays. This could cause it to stop at different locations depending upon interior temperature. I hope your locking system works this way, but not the seat memory. I currently don't have list of settings I've chosen.
Thank you for all of your responses. I check the manual, I can manually change where the air blowing out, but at auto mode, it works that way. I never has auto mode before.
If the auto mode on your LaCrosse is programmed like the H-body's unit, it also changes which vents the air comes from based on the sunlight load detected by the sensors. If it's on automatic speed control, the fan speed may even change. It also changes the operation based on the outside air temp; I've had mine switch to windshield/floor operation when the outside temps were in the low 30s.
Essentially you have a three part program: Fan speeds Air vent choice Temperature control
You pick the temperature control and the unit varies what comes out and where based on the temps it gets from the return air through the little holes on the dash along with the temperature of the air it's blowing out through the system.
You can leave the fan speed on auto or you can change the blower speed and the system relinquishes control of that auto feature.
You can leave the airflow direction on automatic or you can manually pick which way you want the air to flow.
There also is a choice of vent taking in outside air or recycling some air from inside the cabin. You can demand venting by pushing the right button or setting. The unit in automatic mode may select recycle on its own to try to adjust cabin temperature when it deviates widely from the requested temperature.
rainman5542, Will you please e-mail me with your VIN, complete contact information including a telephone number to get a hold of you, and current mileage. I would like to look into this for you. I look forward to your response. Christina GM Customer Service
Over the weekend, I copied another CD. It worked great - all the artist/song information came along with every song. I thought it must just have been the first CD that I tried - some quirk in the CD itself.
However, the next time I started the car, it wouldn't stop trying to read the HDD, and then rebooting the system. It would come back up, play 2 - 5 seconds of a song, then reboot again. It kept doing this no matter what I did - I tried switching to radio (all 3 bands), turning the stereo off, turning the car off and starting it again - nothing worked. It kept rebooting the hard drive and trying to read it until I completely erased the HDD! It still kept trying to read the HDD until I shut the car off. The next time I turned it on, it behaved normally again. I then reluctantly copied another CD (not the troublesome one, but a 3rd option) - it has behaved fine since then, but I'm not happy with how the weekend went. I have a call in to my dealer to see what they can figure out... any thoughts? (I confess, I haven't searched the boards to see if anyone else has had this problem - so I'm sorry if I've missed a post that's on-point).
Reading a review in Road & Track about the 2011 Audi A-8 I was beginning to wonder if GM will offer a V8 Lacrosse. The Audi weighs a hefty 4,395 lbs, does 0-60 in 4.8 seconds yet is able to get 17/27 mpg. Wow! What a car.
According to R&T ”new this year is direct fuel injection for the 4.2-liter 4-cam V-8, output of up to 372 hp and fuel economy rises to a ridiculously frugal 27 mpg highway, the last number no doubt helped by the tall 0.67 ratio of the new 8-speed automatic’s top gear. It’s a sweetheart of an engine, with near-instantaneous throttle response and a clean, mechanically pure sound, so smooth that vibration levels don’t seem to rise in step with increasing revs.
our test A8’s adaptable air suspension possesses multiple ride/handling/response personalities Even at its most aggressive, the ride is not overly firm and there’s ample grip from the 265/40R-20 Goodyear Eagle F1 summer tires (a stand-alone option on our test car, along with the striking 20-in. alloys), to the tune of 0.88g.
Our test car had the optional 22-way leather seats and the Bang & Olufsen 19-speaker 1400-watt sound system that must be heard to be believed.” Read more at http://www.roadandtrack.com/tests/car/2011-audi-a8
As you likely know a HDD is nothing but a storage device. That is to say that you might have a failing HDD, but I suspect the OS or whatever controls it because of the symptoms you have mentioned. A big question would be, "where is the OS stored?" OS are installed to the HDD with nearly all laptops and tower computers. Something may have corrupted the code needed for it to work. You say you erased the HDD. Technically I'd bet it only erased the portion of the HDD designated for copying music, the 11GB portion. I don't know what a swap actually changes out. It might be the entire unit, radio, nav, CD/DVD player are all bundled as one. You might try a couple of other things to narrow the problem. It might be an issue with reading CD/DVD. So try recording music to the HDD via the USB port & the audio in line. Unfortunately it sounds like the problem might be intermittant which makes troubleshooting difficult. You might also try the different formats that it claims are acceptable. At least you will learn whether that functions at all. Hint, M4A is the same as MP4 without video, so if you have available such, just rename the extension to M4A and copy to medium that will copy to vehicle HDD. Have you tried just playing the troublesome CD in vehicle? Listen for any anomalies such as skips. I have learned that I will not get a good copy using ACC because it times out and copying stops. I wonder why they did not have a power over-ride to allow it finishing the record process. I appreciate any knowledge you can pass back.
Which V-8? It would seem the Cadillac Northstar Aurora would be a candidate. But for reasons uncertain, I read that they decided to not do any further development of that engine. One stated reason was they could get as much power out of a lighter V-6. This engine was available in two sizes, the 4.6L and a downstroked version of 4.0L. Both wanted premium fuel except later versions of 4.6L did not require it. I don't know how they accomplished that. The 4.0L had a compression ratio of 10.5 which is low compared to 3.6L V-6. Both V-8's have dual overhead cams. The development that was said not to occur would be the direct injection and probably the individual coils. With those changes they likely could have upped the compression ratio to that of 3.6L for greater efficiency, if it would stand the extra strain. I had the 4.0 version in a 96 Aurora and for its day it was quite powerful, rated at 250HP. I don't know what the 4.6 is currently. I was seeing 27 MPG driving 70 MPH. Local driving I was getting 19MPG, which would drop if caught in stop and go traffic. It was a very smooth engine, so smooth that it prompted a number of passengers to ask, "Do you have a V-8?"
$78-$84,000 for an Audi A-8 vs. $32-$38,000 for Buick Lacrosse? Seems like an unfair comparison. The GM CTS coupe with the 500+ HP V-8 seems like a better pair to look at. The Lacrosse price point appears to be aimed at Chevy/Ford plus rather than Audi/Mercedes/BMW minus in one person's opinion. Down the road we may see Park Avenues, Supers, Rivieras or other name plates with V-8's like the CTS and price points closer to $60-$70,000 rather than the $30's for Lacrosse (and Regal). When GM learns to walk again, they can then run in that race again with high end Buicks and certainly Cadillac can stomach that price point with their targeted buyers group. Long term and initial quality is the objective to regain the original stature and allure for high end cars. Buick pricing between Chevy and Cadillac is right where it belongs, again in one man's opinion only.
After I did as asked, I was puzzled to get a private email reply that simply said "take the car to the dealer". I had previously posted of my intent to do that once service was needed (oil change and tire rotation at 5k miles). I have under 3100 miles now. On a cold start today, at 60 degrees in my garage, it "clanged". Two starts following, about an hour apart, with under 3 miles driven, no noise.
Since others have reported this and had dealers fix it, why is there allegedly NO info in the service database? GM clearly has some training gaps and needs to create a culture of service which starts with LISTENING to customers.
And a little research shows that GM did offer a 5.3 liter, 300-hp V8 in the 2008/2009 LaCrosse Super. (I didn't know they had such an animal, I thought only the Lucerne came in the Super variety.) That engine delivered a respectable city 16 mpg and 24 mpg Hwy but was not carried over to the 2010 LaCrosse. Perhaps the green movement had something to do with that or is a front-wheel drive V8 a poor combination of weight distribution, handling and performance? Nonetheless, I’m still in awe of the Audi V8 delivering 372 ponies while sipping only one gallon per 27 highway miles. Pretty impressive I would say.
I was at the Buick dealer this past Sunday sitting in the various Lacrosses they had on the lot. Being Sunday, I couldn't start or test drive any of the cars....but I did notice one very disturbing thing. EVERY SINGLE LACROSSE I sat in and raised the seat had the seat motor practically DYING as it tried to lift me. In fact, not one of them would raise all the way if I was sitting in the seat. I would have to remove myself from the car and then raise it the remaining part of the way.
Perhaps the seat motors are struggling because they are being used without the engine turned on? Can't think it would matter....both my Camry and Fusion have no problem raising me (and I'm only 180 lbs). But this would be a true deal killer if the simplest thing like the seat motors won't work from day one.
I just tried mine. The car has sat since 10 am, and it's now 9:15 pm. It did slow down at the end of the travel (I'm about 7 lbs heavier), although it didn't sound as if it was struggling too too much. When I started it up, it was a little better. At no time did I feel as though I would have to get out of the car to allow it to travel the full distance up. If you did, it could be that the cars have been sitting on the lot for a few days and the batteries are a little weak.
I got the same response to a private e-mail. This was unlike the situation on another forum (different issue than the "clang") where a GM rep assigned a "case" # and there was a bona fide follow up and problem was solved.
My dealer has seen this start-up "clang" issue and is working with another owner on diagnosis. If I find something out, I'll post.
There does seem to be some sort of disconnect. I was told to take FOBs to dealer and have them tested for memory issue. Technician told me FOB remembers nothing and only identifies to vehicle which FOB/driver is present for locating seat position.
Referring to an earlier post, I have noticed the past two weeks, when I start my 2011 LaCrosse (4,200 miles), that there is a noticeable clanging noise coming from what appears to be the muffler area. It also happens infrequently during the day when the car is started. I took the car into the dealer last night, and he said they could not duplicate the clanging sound, after being left overnight. He said there is a bulletin out on the fuel injector making some noise, but I don't think this is the same issue. Anybody else have additional information on this issue?
The last three reviews posted in the right panel are extremely negative and reflect poorly on the LaCrosse. I cannot understand why a person in their right mind would test drive and buy an automobile and then bash it so mercilessly. If I were GM I would take back the car with no questions asked under the 60-day money back guarantee program. Who needs customers like that?
If the car is not right for you then you should not buy it. Just as I would not buy a Ford 150, not because it is a bad automobile, but because it is not right vehicle for me. I have no desire or need for a truck so I would not buy one. The same goes for the LaCrosse, if the lumber support, ergonomics, visibility, NAV or the tires are not to your liking then move on to another model or to another brand. Buying a shoe one size too small and then complain is as illogical as buying a LaCrosse and whine about every aspect of the car. Haterz!
I remember a couple of years ago a cell phone company dropped some of its customers because they complained too damn much and could never be satisfied. It costs money to be always responding to petty or phantom issues so I believe GM should pay these people to go away. They are killing an otherwise very well designed and manufactured automobile.
Comments
I'm currently thinking Valvoline because of that very long warranty they offer, but will need to check just what is covered. I don't want an oil that will allow premature wear or failure of seals.
You mention HVAC setting. Mine does not seem to be accurate for cooling, requiring a much cooler setting, 72-74, than I'm used to. Even though it is supposed to auto detect bad air, I keep set at recirculate to keep bad smells & pollen out, yet sometimes I get a bad whiff making me wonder how effective the filter is or if it is not completely shutting off outside air.
Most of the car I have, heat comes out at the same vent as air
I filled with 91 octane and paid up +24c/gal-too much!- more than the $2.70/gal regular. The rest of the trip on the tpke averaged only about 27.5 mpg which was a bit disappointing. Actually the better performance was with a no-name (East Coast) that I've used for years with no problems.
So, either I got a bad batch of gas on the tpke or my earlier conclusion on the advantage of 91 is not holding. I might do one or two more checks -if the price premium is right.
In an earlier life working for a refiner, the word was not to buy more octane than your car needed to run knock free. The rest of the "story" was marketing. I've followed that on about 5 vehicles since then with no problems. So maybe thats what I'll wind up doing on the LaCrosse.
Two new things, though...
First, every fourth or fifth time I start the car, I hear a fairly loud clunking noise. My husband is convinced that it's a backfire-type sound - but it sounds more metallic to me. Has anyone else had this happen? Since it's such an intermittent problem, I haven't brought it in yet... any suggestions?
Second, I recorded my first CD to the hard drive last night. Love that feature, but was disappointed to see that it didn't take with it any of the artist/album/song info... did I do something wrong? Or have you all seen that, too?
Thanks!
I have mainly transferred mp3s ripped from my own CD library and from previously purchased music from a Sony online music source in Sony ATRAC format, also converted to mp3s. These were in individual CD named folders and artist/album/song info was retained upon transferring them from a USB flash drive.
I hadn't tried direct recording from CDs to the HD (afraid without knowing the format used, it might not use a compressed format and could be using a lot of HD space). As I had a couple of spare minutes, I just sarted to record an album. It seems a bit slow so I stopped after the second track. The artist/album/songs were saved and played ok.
At 1600-1800 miles, the noise seemed related to morning cold starts. It still occured under all engine and ambient temp conditions, probably every 7th start.
Now, at 3100 miles, it has become infrequent and is one in about 12-15 starts. There is no noticeable correlation to temp.
Another poster claimed that his exhaust and a long baffle had to be replaced to rid his car of the problem.
My dealer claims to have never heard of this before. I don't have any confidence in Suburban Caddilac Buick of Troy.
I, too, have transferred mp3s and all the info was retained. I'll try another CD this weekend and see if I have better luck. Everything plays just fine that I recorded yesterday, but it seems odd to not have the artist/song info...
Thanks for your reply!
Let me know.
Thanks for your reply!
Will the seat still do easy exit?
Does it move ahead before you get in?
There are lots of posts about the clunk as you likely know by now.
What type of CD did you copy to HDD? I copied a double to HDD, stamped CD, and info was retained, but not certain of quality.
The CD I copied is just a regular music CD that was just released last week. I can't imagine that it wouldn't have the artist/song info embedded with the tracks. In any event, I am">link title going to try another CD today to see if I have more success. Will post an update later...
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f21a669/38#MSG38
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f21a669/39#MSG39
Sometimes when I get in the seat has a touch farther to go and if necessary I correct by pausing the #1 button. The most it moves would be less than an inch.
The seat has a built in feature that will automatically stop if it hits something on the floor blocking the movement. I wonder if when I set down if this triggers the stop. Have not verified this.
That is I'll leave FOB at driver's door and see what happens.
When you open driver's door is it unlocking all the others? You'd notice the lock button come up.
I know that opening passenger door only, manually, autounlock set, it unlocks the rear doors presuming someone wants to get in rear. Since this would seem to be software programming it could certainly be another choice item.
I'm still hoping someone will leak what OS is being used and how to access it via a laptop at USB port. At this point I'm beginning to worry that it is some Chinese system, proprietary at that.
Passenger side doors remain locked, all combinations unless your open rear driver side.
Peculiar behavior of seat memory did occur. Open driver door, set moved ahead. Cycling through a second time moved seat to easy exit. I noticed that it seemed to be straining like maybe cold has made grease stiff. I heard the relay kick out when it stopped and it might not be quite as far back as normal. After that it ceased movement when cycling doors with auto unlock. This seems to hint of possible errors and also suggests that positioning related to FOB might be in conjunction with timer relays. This could cause it to stop at different locations depending upon interior temperature.
I hope your locking system works this way, but not the seat memory. I currently don't have list of settings I've chosen.
Thank you
It also changes the operation based on the outside air temp; I've had mine switch to windshield/floor operation when the outside temps were in the low 30s.
Essentially you have a three part program:
Fan speeds
Air vent choice
Temperature control
You pick the temperature control and the unit varies what comes out and where based on the temps it gets from the return air through the little holes on the dash along with the temperature of the air it's blowing out through the system.
You can leave the fan speed on auto or you can change the blower speed and the system relinquishes control of that auto feature.
You can leave the airflow direction on automatic or you can manually pick which way you want the air to flow.
There also is a choice of vent taking in outside air or recycling some air from inside the cabin. You can demand venting by pushing the right button or setting. The unit in automatic mode may select recycle on its own to try to adjust cabin temperature when it deviates widely from the requested temperature.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Will you please e-mail me with your VIN, complete contact information including a telephone number to get a hold of you, and current mileage. I would like to look into this for you. I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I would like you to look into my issue, too (which is the issue I originally posted, to which rainman5542 was replying). Can you help me?
Over the weekend, I copied another CD. It worked great - all the artist/song information came along with every song. I thought it must just have been the first CD that I tried - some quirk in the CD itself.
However, the next time I started the car, it wouldn't stop trying to read the HDD, and then rebooting the system. It would come back up, play 2 - 5 seconds of a song, then reboot again. It kept doing this no matter what I did - I tried switching to radio (all 3 bands), turning the stereo off, turning the car off and starting it again - nothing worked. It kept rebooting the hard drive and trying to read it until I completely erased the HDD! It still kept trying to read the HDD until I shut the car off. The next time I turned it on, it behaved normally again. I then reluctantly copied another CD (not the troublesome one, but a 3rd option) - it has behaved fine since then, but I'm not happy with how the weekend went. I have a call in to my dealer to see what they can figure out... any thoughts? (I confess, I haven't searched the boards to see if anyone else has had this problem - so I'm sorry if I've missed a post that's on-point).
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
Reading a review in Road & Track about the 2011 Audi A-8 I was beginning to wonder if GM will offer a V8 Lacrosse. The Audi weighs a hefty 4,395 lbs, does 0-60 in 4.8 seconds yet is able to get 17/27 mpg. Wow! What a car.
According to R&T ”new this year is direct fuel injection for the 4.2-liter 4-cam V-8, output of up to 372 hp and fuel economy rises to a ridiculously frugal 27 mpg highway, the last number no doubt helped by the tall 0.67 ratio of the new 8-speed automatic’s top gear. It’s a sweetheart of an engine, with near-instantaneous throttle response and a clean, mechanically pure sound, so smooth that vibration levels don’t seem to rise in step with increasing revs.
our test A8’s adaptable air suspension possesses multiple ride/handling/response personalities Even at its most aggressive, the ride is not overly firm and there’s ample grip from the 265/40R-20 Goodyear Eagle F1 summer tires (a stand-alone option on our test car, along with the striking 20-in. alloys), to the tune of 0.88g.
Our test car had the optional 22-way leather seats and the Bang & Olufsen 19-speaker 1400-watt sound system that must be heard to be believed.”
Read more at http://www.roadandtrack.com/tests/car/2011-audi-a8
A big question would be, "where is the OS stored?" OS are installed to the HDD with nearly all laptops and tower computers. Something may have corrupted the code needed for it to work.
You say you erased the HDD. Technically I'd bet it only erased the portion of the HDD designated for copying music, the 11GB portion.
I don't know what a swap actually changes out. It might be the entire unit, radio, nav, CD/DVD player are all bundled as one.
You might try a couple of other things to narrow the problem. It might be an issue with reading CD/DVD. So try recording music to the HDD via the USB port & the audio in line. Unfortunately it sounds like the problem might be intermittant which makes troubleshooting difficult. You might also try the different formats that it claims are acceptable. At least you will learn whether that functions at all. Hint, M4A is the same as MP4 without video, so if you have available such, just rename the extension to M4A and copy to medium that will copy to vehicle HDD.
Have you tried just playing the troublesome CD in vehicle? Listen for any anomalies such as skips.
I have learned that I will not get a good copy using ACC because it times out and copying stops. I wonder why they did not have a power over-ride to allow it finishing the record process.
I appreciate any knowledge you can pass back.
It would seem the Cadillac Northstar Aurora would be a candidate. But for reasons uncertain, I read that they decided to not do any further development of that engine. One stated reason was they could get as much power out of a lighter V-6.
This engine was available in two sizes, the 4.6L and a downstroked version of 4.0L. Both wanted premium fuel except later versions of 4.6L did not require it. I don't know how they accomplished that.
The 4.0L had a compression ratio of 10.5 which is low compared to 3.6L V-6.
Both V-8's have dual overhead cams.
The development that was said not to occur would be the direct injection and probably the individual coils. With those changes they likely could have upped the compression ratio to that of 3.6L for greater efficiency, if it would stand the extra strain.
I had the 4.0 version in a 96 Aurora and for its day it was quite powerful, rated at 250HP. I don't know what the 4.6 is currently. I was seeing 27 MPG driving 70 MPH. Local driving I was getting 19MPG, which would drop if caught in stop and go traffic. It was a very smooth engine, so smooth that it prompted a number of passengers to ask, "Do you have a V-8?"
Down the road we may see Park Avenues, Supers, Rivieras or other name plates with V-8's like the CTS and price points closer to $60-$70,000 rather than the $30's for Lacrosse (and Regal). When GM learns to walk again, they can then run in that race again with high end Buicks and certainly Cadillac can stomach that price point with their targeted buyers group. Long term and initial quality is the objective to regain the original stature and allure for high end cars.
Buick pricing between Chevy and Cadillac is right where it belongs, again in one man's opinion only.
Since others have reported this and had dealers fix it, why is there allegedly NO info in the service database? GM clearly has some training gaps and needs to create a culture of service which starts with LISTENING to customers.
I personally would like clarification of what Chistina means by "I'll look into it".
By the way, who's your servicing dealer? Mine is Suburban Caddy Buick of Troy
And a little research shows that GM did offer a 5.3 liter, 300-hp V8 in the 2008/2009 LaCrosse Super. (I didn't know they had such an animal, I thought only the Lucerne came in the Super variety.) That engine delivered a respectable city 16 mpg and 24 mpg Hwy but was not carried over to the 2010 LaCrosse. Perhaps the green movement had something to do with that or is a front-wheel drive V8 a poor combination of weight distribution, handling and performance? Nonetheless, I’m still in awe of the Audi V8 delivering 372 ponies while sipping only one gallon per 27 highway miles. Pretty impressive I would say.
I was at the Buick dealer this past Sunday sitting in the various Lacrosses they had on the lot. Being Sunday, I couldn't start or test drive any of the cars....but I did notice one very disturbing thing. EVERY SINGLE LACROSSE I sat in and raised the seat had the seat motor practically DYING as it tried to lift me. In fact, not one of them would raise all the way if I was sitting in the seat. I would have to remove myself from the car and then raise it the remaining part of the way.
Perhaps the seat motors are struggling because they are being used without the engine turned on? Can't think it would matter....both my Camry and Fusion have no problem raising me (and I'm only 180 lbs). But this would be a true deal killer if the simplest thing like the seat motors won't work from day one.
Is it because the engine needs to be turned on?
joe
It is. Many people brag about getting similar FE out of their Vettes.
I just tried mine. The car has sat since 10 am, and it's now 9:15 pm. It did slow down at the end of the travel (I'm about 7 lbs heavier), although it didn't sound as if it was struggling too too much. When I started it up, it was a little better. At no time did I feel as though I would have to get out of the car to allow it to travel the full distance up. If you did, it could be that the cars have been sitting on the lot for a few days and the batteries are a little weak.
My dealer has seen this start-up "clang" issue and is working with another owner on diagnosis. If I find something out, I'll post.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
If the car is not right for you then you should not buy it. Just as I would not buy a Ford 150, not because it is a bad automobile, but because it is not right vehicle for me. I have no desire or need for a truck so I would not buy one. The same goes for the LaCrosse, if the lumber support, ergonomics, visibility, NAV or the tires are not to your liking then move on to another model or to another brand. Buying a shoe one size too small and then complain is as illogical as buying a LaCrosse and whine about every aspect of the car. Haterz!
I remember a couple of years ago a cell phone company dropped some of its customers because they complained too damn much and could never be satisfied. It costs money to be always responding to petty or phantom issues so I believe GM should pay these people to go away. They are killing an otherwise very well designed and manufactured automobile.