At least your warranty is going to expire during the same year it is supposed to. I always end up purchasing the extended warranties and have yet to get to 4 years before I go over 100,000 miles. The Taco will be 3 years old in 2 weeks and it has over 127,000 miles. And I still have 2 more years on the note!
Silly question, really, but how long should you expect to get on a clutch (I know - driving habits and type of driving can change things considerably)? I haven't had any problems with either vehicle, but should I be starting to think about putting away enough to cover one?
It really is a "How long is a piece of string?" question. However, I can't think of any downside to putting some money away to cover future maintenance of any sort. If it's not the clutch I guarantee it'll be something else!
Uh, think that question over a minute, and remember who you are asking.
I have never owned a vehicle long enough to wear out the clutch. I have hardly had them long enough to get the tires rotated.
I think it's "Mac time." My GUESS is that with proper driving habits and not a lot of stop and go driving, where you are going through the gears all the time, you could expect to get 100K or more out of the clutch. You have over 100 K on your Jeep, right? You've never had to replace the clutch, have you?
I think you will get some warning before it goes completely out on ya. It will begin slipping a little at first.
I've seen anywhere from 120k-220k out of clutches in our family. Granted we're flatlanders for the most part. Not slipping the clutch to hold a hill or leaving in engaged at a light are both big contributors to shorter life.
Other bad habits include slipping the clutch too much when moving off, and resting the left foot on the clutch pedal when driving. Doesn't do it much good to be submerged in mud either! Usually the hardest technique to master is the hill start.
Mtngal and twylie obviously have things pretty well sorted. I guess we'll have to wait a few years to see if tsjay's got it!
What about resting your hand on the gearshift knob? I've long heard that doing that wasn't good for the drivetrain, but don't know if it's an urban legend.
Urban legend I think. I suppose I could construct an argument for extra wear on the selector forks etc., but it really comes down to just being a bad driving habit. The control input device that requires the most physical movement on the part of the driver is the steering wheel, which is why it is the correct place to keep your hands when they're not required elsewhere.
Manufacturers have finally come to realize this as can be seen from the number of controls that can now be operated from, or close to, the steering wheel.
I guess that I should concentrate on getting my dash gauges fixed and not worry about the clutch at the moment. It's nice to know that it will slip and give some warning when it goes. I have over 111,000 on the odometer on the Wrangler and 127,000 miles on the Taco and original clutches on both. In fact, I've never had to replace a clutch, though I've only had over 100,000 miles on one other MT vehicle.
Also thanks for the info about resting your hand on the gear shift. My other half has a tendency to rest his hand on the gear shift in the Taco but not in the Wrangler. I don't because it is too much of a reach for me.
Speaking of resting places for elbows etc. - do you suppose DC will ever put an elbow rest on the Wrangler's full doors that is in the right place for elbows? I find the height of the half doors just right for me, but the full doors are too high. If I drive for any length of time with the steering wheel at it's top spot my arms get tired. I've found that if I lower it down some I'm quite comfortable.
I wouldn't have gone out of my way to buy a Wrangler with a tilt steering wheel, but I'm so glad I got it that way. Next time I'll definitely put it on my "must have" list.
Mac mentioned that hill starts are the hardest technique to master in driving a vehicle with a manual tranny. That's the truth, but even that becomes second nature with just a little experience.
One trick that probably almost everyone in here has heard of is the old emergency brake trick.
Set the hand brake when you come to a stop on a hill and are waiting for traffic to start moving again or the light to change. With the emergency brake engaged, you should be able to let off the foot brake without the vehicle trying to roll backwards. Go back to the gas pedal with the right foot, keeping the clutch in with the left foot. When it's time to go, just ease out the clutch and feed a little gas, as if you were doing a normal take off. When you first feel the vehicle starting to try to move forward, let off the emergency brake. Then, you are on your way.
With the gearing on a Jeep, and with the good low end torque of the 4.0 engine, you can skip the emergency brake thing, and you can just keep the brake on with the right foot. When it's time to go, just start out with the clutch, and as soon as you feel the Jeep trying to go forwards, let off the brake and get on the gas. The engine has enough power, even at idle RPM, to get the Jeep rolling from a dead stop without bogging down and dying, if you come out nice and easy with the clutch.
Well, Buds, I guess I lost track of some miles, because instead of hitting 36K on the way home from Turkey Bay today, I hit it on the way TO Turkey Bay. I must have looked at the odometer reading at work, before driving the 27 miles home yesterday. Anyway, no more warranty.
Heck, that ain't no biggie. Thelma Jane ain't gonna give me any problems anyway, so who needs a warranty?
I never felt the need to use the emergency brake trick to start on a hill until I went to San Francisco. Then I really appreciated knowing about this technique!
By the way, my Noble Black Steed started right up this morning after sitting for 3 weeks. While all I did was drive to a trailhead located on a paved road, I'm sure he was delighted to get going. I'm still constantly amazed at how reliable it had been (even if the dash gauges did go out when I ran over a rock).
Hah, I remember when I was first learning to drive stick... While we don't have many hills to speak of in Edmonton there are a number of surprising ones. Got stopped at a red light right at the top of one, feeling nervous, car filled to capacity with family. Light turns green, let foot of brake and enthusiastically gave a wee-bit too much gas. Surprisingly I didn't stall, instead I ended up shooting out of the intersection, peeling the tires and just about giving the ol' folks whiplash. Man, that was some fun... ;-)
You've got me to thinking about getting a Jeep and joining you. I've recently decided to sell my bike, since I don't ride it very much these days.
I've been looking at a small used car lot that will have one or two at a time. I have noticed the prices on these Jeeps are considerably higher than what the three major online valuation services say. One Jeep in particular is an '88, I think, it has square headlights, Sport with 145k, 5-speed and 4 banger and pretty much nothing else. The body appears to be straight, I couldn't find any signs of damage, with no rust except on the tailgate. Now, the asking price is $5,500, but Edmunds says dealer retail should only be $1,500 in "average" condition. The other two, kbb.com and nada.com, are also considerably lower. What gives?
I don't know, but that Jeep is NOT worth that kind of money! Not even CLOSE!
Keep looking. You will find one sooner or later at a reasonable price.
You really oughta try to get a TJ (97 or newer). They don't require any mods to be a pretty good trail rig! The coil springs flex like crazy compared to the leaf springs of the YJs (87 - 95).
The YJs can become super good on the trails, but they require mods.
For the money they were asking for that 88, you could get a four banger TJ.
If you DO get a YJ, get at least a 91 or newer, so you will have fuel injection. (Well, that's the year the six cylinder got the fuel injection, but I think the four was fuel injected earlier than that.)
You get on those steep hills at Turkey Bay with a carbuerated engine, and you will have a tough time keeping it running.
Also, if you can get a 93 or newer, they have an external slave cylinder for the clutch, so they are easier to work on if you need clutch work.
I will keep my eyes open and will shoot you an email if I see a good deal on a Jeep for ya. What's your price range?
CHEAP!!! Realistically, I'd like to get one under $5k if I do buy one. I'm undecided about the whole thing. I've been riding motorcycles for 28 years and have always had one in the garage for 24 years. I've never been without one the vast majority of my life, I'm only 34. I started riding when I was 6 years old!! So, the thought of being without a bike depresses me since they have been such a big part of my life. However, I haven't put 500 miles on my bike this year and I don't think I did last year either. I catch a lot of grief from my wife everytime I want to go for a ride 'cause she feels as if I am leaving her home 'stuck' with the boys. I can appreciate those feelings, that's why I am considering a Jeep. I think the boys, Benjamin age 6 and Barrett age 3, would love offroading. It's something I can do with the boys without Janna feeling 'stuck' at home.
What I am looking for: I don't really care whether it is the 4 cyl. or 6 cyl. Unless I happen to stumble across a nice one with low miles, I probably will trailer it to TB. So the 4 banger's lack of highway power is not a concern for me. Surely the 4 banger will have enough power to pull the Jeep in 4-low? As far as options go, manual tranny and little else. If it has a hard top, that's OK, but not specifically wanted. It would be great if someone has already put larger tires on it and even a small lift, but I don't want to pay extra just because someone has put a 10" lift on it, unless it's cheap of course. I would like the interior to be in decent shape as well as the mechanicals. I don't want to have to rebuild the thing before I take it out the first time. Then again, depending on what's wrong with it, if the price is cheap enough, I'd consider it. Is this a clear enough picture of what I am looking for?
I'd appreciate you keeping your eyes open for one. Thanks for the info. on the different years.
For your purposes, the four banger would fit the bill nicely. There is absolutely NO disadvantage to the four cylinder engine out on the trails, and some would say, because of their lighter weight, they are actually an advantage. I often wheel with guys that have four bangers, and they go anywhere that they would be able to go if they had the six cylinder engine. That good old low range in the T-case multiplies the torque enough that even the four banger has plenty of power.
You are RIGHT ON THE MONEY about the Jeep being a family thing. I guarantee you that your kids would absolutely love going wheelin' with you in a Jeep, and I often see "moms" enjoying it too. I love to see whole families out there enjoying themselves. Even if Mom doesn't get into it, at least you are getting tbe boys out of her hair for a while, right?
I still say try to get a TJ. It will cost ya more initially than getting an older Jeep, but you won't have to do anything to it to make it capable of most of the territory at Turkey Bay.
If you could go around $6,000, I am pretty sure you could get a 97 or 98 four banger TJ (that would be the SE model).
I will definitely help ya find a Jeep!
Jim, glad ya posted in here, and I hope you will make yourself at home here.
The folks in here are some of the nicest folks you will ever meet on the Net. We all try to help each other, and there is no flaming, like you so often see on other web sites.
Jim, my new bud from Mayfield, Ky. Mayfield is on the other side of LBL from where I live, and he is only about 40 miles away from Turkey Bay.
Jim saw me in the members spotlight and saw that I was from Greenville, Ky, so he sent me an email. That's how Jim and I got hooked up.
We have still not yet met in person, but, hopefully, that is going to change, and Jim will meet me at Turkey Bay and ride shotgun in Thelma Jane some Saturday before too long.
As you can see from his posts, Jim is in the initial stages of Wrangler Fever.
Unless you're really lucky, $5K will realistically only buy you the opportunity to spend a lot more, just to keep it running. If you want decent mechanics, interior and body you'll likely have to spend a more. Paying a little more, maybe $7k for a '97 TJ, would pay dividends in so many ways. Better chassis, suspension and coil springs, to name but a few. A 4 cylinder will do just fine off road.
I miss my motorcycle too. However, having had so many friends and acquaintances injured (and a few killed) by circumstances beyond their control, I decided not to push to see the point where my luck would run out. While I'm comfortable with my own skills, the behavior of some other drivers truly scares me. On several occasions I've seen the tragedy of lost limbs when a car driver has pulled out right in front of an oncoming motorcyclist. Another friend had his back broken when he was rear-ended while sitting at a red stop light. While defensive driving should always be practiced, it can't always save you from the actions of others. Purely my decision though.
I just wanted to post a link (with our hosts gracious permission) to an amusing video clip. A little something for all us Jeep owners (and wannabe owners like myself)!
Now, keep in mind that the clip is about 10MB in size so you may want to reconsider if you're not running on broadband. Also, there has been at least one report of a person having issues after trying to access that link... in which case this is an alternative link:
It was great, it even snowed. I ended up getting a grand cherokee 4x4 as the wranglers were all gone. Oh well I hit some really nice offroad trails one in particular was great. It went along the snake river for 20+ miles and saw 2 eagles, lots of bison and elk. I bet 30% of the vehicles i saw were jeeps of some kind. even the person cleaning our room in Jackson had a wagoneer. I did chat with a guy that had a very nice rig similar to Tom's. He was going to the national forest to hit some trails. This guy had a hard top and the rear window folded up is this standard on hardtops? Wish a could have stayed longer and got my hands on a wrangler. If any of ya'll ever go up there take the drive up to the northeast entrance to Cooke City, that whole drive is terrific, lots of animals, trees and mountains.
Welcome home!Sounds like a great trip. Glad you had a good time.
You said the guy's hard top window "folded" up??? The rear window on hard tops swings upward when you open the back end, if that's what you mean. The back window raises up and the tail gate swings out.
This may sound crazy to some but check out ebay motors its through their web page. Plenty of wranglers listed some at very good prices. I purchased my 98 grand this way. I think i got a good deal. After winning the bid I went to inspect the vehicle and then ran a carfax. Only then did i complete the transaction and have been very happy with the purchase. You might check it out and see what ya think....Jeff
What a lovely sounding trip! I do know that most people who live full time in Jackson drive some type of 4x4 - my sister's family has about 4 Suburbans. One of these days I'll head up there with my Wrangler and explore all those lovely dirt roads and trails.
As far as bikes vs. Wranglers go - I'm like mac. I loved owning a little bike when I was living in Texas, riding those back roads out in the middle of no-where and using almost no gas. But it was the first thing I sold when I decided to move back to L.A. I just couldn't see driving the SoCal freeways so unprotected.
Girls can enjoy off-roading too. Get the Wrangler,leave the kids with a baby sitter, then take your wife with you on an easy dirt road out to some beautiful, isolated spot and enjoy a wonderful, romantic picnic lunch...
Love that clip! I waited until I got to work - my home connection is dial-up and slow due to poor telephone lines, but work is super fast.
Our local paper had a photo a couple of years ago of a hummer rolling down in our nearby OHV area. It looked like someone tried to take one up one of the motorcycle trails and it didn't work. Of course, the driver makes a huge difference in many situations - Tom could get through places where I would get stuck, since he has a great deal more experience than I do with the really rough stuff.
mtngal Here is a link to a arm rest for full steel doors. Seems too expensive though. http://tinyurl.com/neoy Did you check for a recall on your dash lights? There is a website that explains how to fix it yourself also. Have you seen that? If I come across it I will post the link.
Hill starts with a manual tranny There is also the heel to toe technique. You put your heel on the brake and slowly push the gas with your toe. You can also just start your Jeep in gear and go. I have used that a lot off-roading.
I assume they are water proof but was wondering if it was recommended to treat the fabric or windows w/anything for added protection. For instance there are a couple of products to clean, treat and protect the canvas sails on my Hobie Cat. Not sure if the same theories would apply to the soft top.
I was looking at it in the box over the weekend and was hoping there would be some way to keep that brand new shine & look to it. I'm sure the hard top in the winter will save a bit of wear & tear but any ideas for that summer sun and salty beach air?
Also, how much wear can one expect from the wind while driving at speed on the highway?
best product I've found for soft tops, plastic, and vinyl is called 303 Protectant. Any of the major catalogers carry it. You can sometimes find it at marine supply stores as well. It's got UV protection and is not as oily as Armor All (which I don't use or recommend).
Yeah, it's a pretty funny one. Although I suspect it's more the driver than the vehicle in this particular case (I would guess that airing down a little might have helped)... Did you get sound while watching it? The music is quite hilarious...
drosketer, I thought all H1s came with a rear locking diff. It doesn't look like it was engaged in that video. I saw a H2 out on a trail in CO. I wanted to see if he would go up this long steep hill climb but he wasn't around when we were by it.
Texasjeep, Not certain, but I don't think so. My brother drives an H1 (older model, '97 I think) and one of his plans is to install a locking diff (and wouldn't he be in for a surprise). Apparently it will (or is) offered as an option on new models.
Not really sure on H's in general, but the H2 is not as off-road worthy as its predecessor...
On a more humorous note, I can say with some certainty that the H1 has a MPG rating that's even thirstier than a Wrangler (except the lucky buggers get a diesel engine)! :-) Andrew
I recently 2-3 months ago, purchased a 97 TJ SE for under 7,000. It was in decent shape, though the top needed replacing.
Even if the interior is a bit worn, it isn't too much work to buy a new carpet kit from JC Whitney and install it yourself. It's pretty easy (once you remove the seats). Took me about 1.5 hours with lots of breaks and kids asking questions about whether I knew what I was doing.
You can get decent seat covers anywhere virtually (I got some from Savage Dodge in PA - Mopar parts at 20% off).
If you want to offroad it, I wouldn't really even worry about it too much. Look at some of the pics Tom has in his gallery. You gonna get wet and muddy anyway.
The only thing I had to do mechanically was to get an exhaust manifold serviced and replace the catalytic converter (it broke after we bought it). If you find an early TJ (97-00), I'd check the mileage and if it is under 80,000, have the exhaust system checked for leaks. Under 80,000 and a Jeep dealer should be able to fix any problems. Mine has 85,000 so I missed the cutoff by 5,000. Oh well.
I also had to fix a valve head cover leak, but did that myself this weekend. Most of the bolts were so loose I could loosen them with my fingers. Think I found the leak! But I redid the gasket and tightened them up securely (55 in lbs - per spec) so that problem is gone.
Granted, I'm also doing some additional stuff that is running up the price tag a bit (new top, bikini top, stereo system/soundbar, new Canyon wheels (coming tomorrow!!!!) and tires. Still can't decide between 30x9.5 or 31x10.5. Any votes here?
I'd vote for whatever you can get a good deal on. If it's a "run around town" Jeep, the 30 tires will be friendlier on gas mileage and handling. If you think off-roading is in your future, maybe some 31" ATs. 31's will fit on the majority of TJs with minimal to no issues, especially running the Canyon rims. Depending on the gearing on your SE, any larger tires than are on it may mean a performance hit that you feel initially. Might be another good reason to stay at 30" tires. eBay and some of the Jeep sale boards often have the 30" GS-As (which were factory) for pretty cheap. They are actually a decent street tire and aren't bad offroad unless you get them in the mud. I swapped mine onto my Explorer which is a daily driver and they have been almost as good as the Michelins that came off.
If you don't already know the gearing on your Jeep, there should be a metal tag attached to one of the differential cover bolts. SOmewhere near the end you'll see some numbers like 307 355 373 or 411. That represents the installed gear ration. If it's 3.07 (not even sure they offered the SE with that ratio, though), I'd say stick to the 30" or else you'll feel like you lost a gear or two. Any of the others will be tollerable to good with the 31's.
Thanks for the input. My concern was the 'feel' on the road driving. I knew with bigger tires, it would probably feel a bit more sluggish. My daughter wanted a 'higher Jeep' but I'm not willing to put a lift on it right now as I'm worried enough about her turning abilities in it without raising her CG with a lift. The wider/bigger tires I think will be a better way to go since I doubt she'll be doing any serious offroading in the area (What's mud again?).
I'll check the gearing ratio tonight. I assume I look on the pumpkin differentials. Is that tag on the front or rear or both?
Liked the looks of the elbow rest, but as you say, they seem awfully pricey for what you get. Maybe someday, after we replace the seats in the Taco (or replace it completely).
The last time I looked a couple of months ago, the NHTSA's web site listed a TSB on the dash lights, but not a recall (sigh). I looked at the page that talked about how to fix them and had just about decided to give it a try. Then one of my (engineer) co-workers gave me an article about how much it can cost when do-it-yourself projects get out of hand, like stripping bolts, etc. So I thought I'd leave it for the pros to do. Especially since I think it could get real expensive real quick, if I screw it up!
I hear ya on those DIY jobs. I was nervous about fixing my valve covers, since I had never done it before. Obviously whoever had it before me didn't have the right tools either since all the bolts were anything but stripped - they were all hand tightened!
If you want to tackle it properly, just make sure you have the right tools for the job. Proper tools, and taking your time to make sure you get it right are the best things you can do. Do you have a Hayne's manual or a FSM?
I am almost positive that the gearing would be 4.11 on Paul's Jeep. I think ALL SE's get the 4.11 gearing, but maybe automatics get something else. ( I'm sure the five speeds have the 4.11 differentials. )
yes, the tag should be on the pumpkin. On mine, I didn't see a tag on the front diff, but on the rear, it's on a bolt about 4 o'clock looking from the rear of the Jeep.
The gear ratio is the number of teeth on the ring gear divided by the number of teeth on the pinion gear.
The pinion gear rotates once per revolution of the drive shaft, so in a 4.11 gear set, the driveshaft and pinion gear make 4.11 revolutions for one revolution of the ring gear. The back tires turn once per revolution of the ring gear.
The higher the numerical value of the gear ratio, the higher the engine RPM for a given speed (as long as the transmission is in the same gear). So, you get better acceleration with a higher numerical number for gear ratio, because the engine turns over more times, generating more power.
Think of pedaling a ten speed bike. In first gear, you can get going much easier from a dead stop, but your legs are pumping faster than they would be in 10th gear. Eventually, your legs are pumping as fast as they can pump, and you need to switch to the next gear, if you want to go faster.
It's crazy, but a higher numerical value for a gear ratio is actually a lower gear.
Paul - the 4.11 gears would be preferredw since it is going to give you more "pep" when accelerating. Worse for gas mileage, but bad mileage in a Wrangler is a relative thing - just a matter of how bad it is...
WOW, have I been away that long? took me over an hour to read 131 post. Everything is great here in BAMA. Tazz is topless, doorless & ALL clean. I enjoyed reading all the post, keep'um coming. TOM, hope RA is doing better. I have 2 dogs myself. I went to my local Jeep dealer recently. they have closed up. So I guess i will have to order my JEEP STUFF online.
Yeah, I know what you mean about the interior. I don't want anything fancy by any means, IMO mud and leather or even nice fabric don't go together. I want all of the gauges to work or at least be servicable without completely replacing everything. Eventhough I may not use it on the road, I do want the speedo and odo to work and a tach is a must. Allthough that can be added cheaply enough. I don't want broken down seats, worn covers are OK, I can put new covers on. A rubber mat is preferred, was that even offered?
One thing I forgot to warn you about if you get a YJ is to stay away from the Peugeot transmission! They are nothing but trouble!!!! I am trying to find out for ya which years the YJs had those things.
Thanks for the warning! Was that tranny an auto or manual? I am looking at manuals only.
I've been looking at various lift kits for both YJ's and TJ's. The prices are higher for the TJ's, understandably due to the coil spring suspension. I have found the spring over axle lifts which appear to be the easiest and least expensive way to lift one, using the stock springs. Any drawbacks to one of these. Don't get me wrong. I'm not afraid to mod one, I just don't want to spend a couple grand on a lift kit when some spacer blocks, longer U-bolts and longer travel shocks will do the same job.
I'm still a little unclear as to just how much more capable a TJ is. For example, will a YJ with a 3.5" lift and 33" tires be just as capable off road as a similar TJ? I've also noticed most of these companies suggest a CV driveshaft. I know what they are talking about, but are they really necessary?
Another thing I have picked up on, exhaust manifolds. I have read several ads where the seller stated that the manifold had been replaced. I have never replaced a manifold in any vehicle, well except for performance reasons. Is this a common problem in a Jeep?
Comments
At least your warranty is going to expire during the same year it is supposed to. I always end up purchasing the extended warranties and have yet to get to 4 years before I go over 100,000 miles. The Taco will be 3 years old in 2 weeks and it has over 127,000 miles. And I still have 2 more years on the note!
Silly question, really, but how long should you expect to get on a clutch (I know - driving habits and type of driving can change things considerably)? I haven't had any problems with either vehicle, but should I be starting to think about putting away enough to cover one?
I have never owned a vehicle long enough to wear out the clutch. I have hardly had them long enough to get the tires rotated.
I think it's "Mac time." My GUESS is that with proper driving habits and not a lot of stop and go driving, where you are going through the gears all the time, you could expect to get 100K or more out of the clutch. You have over 100 K on your Jeep, right? You've never had to replace the clutch, have you?
I think you will get some warning before it goes completely out on ya. It will begin slipping a little at first.
Mac????
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
You da man!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-twylie
Mtngal and twylie obviously have things pretty well sorted. I guess we'll have to wait a few years to see if tsjay's got it!
:--)
Steve, Host
Manufacturers have finally come to realize this as can be seen from the number of controls that can now be operated from, or close to, the steering wheel.
Also thanks for the info about resting your hand on the gear shift. My other half has a tendency to rest his hand on the gear shift in the Taco but not in the Wrangler. I don't because it is too much of a reach for me.
Speaking of resting places for elbows etc. - do you suppose DC will ever put an elbow rest on the Wrangler's full doors that is in the right place for elbows? I find the height of the half doors just right for me, but the full doors are too high. If I drive for any length of time with the steering wheel at it's top spot my arms get tired. I've found that if I lower it down some I'm quite comfortable.
I wouldn't have gone out of my way to buy a Wrangler with a tilt steering wheel, but I'm so glad I got it that way. Next time I'll definitely put it on my "must have" list.
One trick that probably almost everyone in here has heard of is the old emergency brake trick.
Set the hand brake when you come to a stop on a hill and are waiting for traffic to start moving again or the light to change. With the emergency brake engaged, you should be able to let off the foot brake without the vehicle trying to roll backwards. Go back to the gas pedal with the right foot, keeping the clutch in with the left foot. When it's time to go, just ease out the clutch and feed a little gas, as if you were doing a normal take off. When you first feel the vehicle starting to try to move forward, let off the emergency brake. Then, you are on your way.
With the gearing on a Jeep, and with the good low end torque of the 4.0 engine, you can skip the emergency brake thing, and you can just keep the brake on with the right foot. When it's time to go, just start out with the clutch, and as soon as you feel the Jeep trying to go forwards, let off the brake and get on the gas. The engine has enough power, even at idle RPM, to get the Jeep rolling from a dead stop without bogging down and dying, if you come out nice and easy with the clutch.
NEVER USE THE CLUTCH TO HOLD THE JEEP ON A HILL!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Heck, that ain't no biggie. Thelma Jane ain't gonna give me any problems anyway, so who needs a warranty?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
By the way, my Noble Black Steed started right up this morning after sitting for 3 weeks. While all I did was drive to a trailhead located on a paved road, I'm sure he was delighted to get going. I'm still constantly amazed at how reliable it had been (even if the dash gauges did go out when I ran over a rock).
Andrew
I've been looking at a small used car lot that will have one or two at a time. I have noticed the prices on these Jeeps are considerably higher than what the three major online valuation services say. One Jeep in particular is an '88, I think, it has square headlights, Sport with 145k, 5-speed and 4 banger and pretty much nothing else. The body appears to be straight, I couldn't find any signs of damage, with no rust except on the tailgate. Now, the asking price is $5,500, but Edmunds says dealer retail should only be $1,500 in "average" condition. The other two, kbb.com and nada.com, are also considerably lower. What gives?
Keep looking. You will find one sooner or later at a reasonable price.
You really oughta try to get a TJ (97 or newer). They don't require any mods to be a pretty good trail rig! The coil springs flex like crazy compared to the leaf springs of the YJs (87 - 95).
The YJs can become super good on the trails, but they require mods.
For the money they were asking for that 88, you could get a four banger TJ.
If you DO get a YJ, get at least a 91 or newer, so you will have fuel injection. (Well, that's the year the six cylinder got the fuel injection, but I think the four was fuel injected earlier than that.)
You get on those steep hills at Turkey Bay with a carbuerated engine, and you will have a tough time keeping it running.
Also, if you can get a 93 or newer, they have an external slave cylinder for the clutch, so they are easier to work on if you need clutch work.
I will keep my eyes open and will shoot you an email if I see a good deal on a Jeep for ya. What's your price range?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
What I am looking for: I don't really care whether it is the 4 cyl. or 6 cyl. Unless I happen to stumble across a nice one with low miles, I probably will trailer it to TB. So the 4 banger's lack of highway power is not a concern for me. Surely the 4 banger will have enough power to pull the Jeep in 4-low? As far as options go, manual tranny and little else. If it has a hard top, that's OK, but not specifically wanted. It would be great if someone has already put larger tires on it and even a small lift, but I don't want to pay extra just because someone has put a 10" lift on it, unless it's cheap of course. I would like the interior to be in decent shape as well as the mechanicals. I don't want to have to rebuild the thing before I take it out the first time. Then again, depending on what's wrong with it, if the price is cheap enough, I'd consider it. Is this a clear enough picture of what I am looking for?
I'd appreciate you keeping your eyes open for one. Thanks for the info. on the different years.
You are RIGHT ON THE MONEY about the Jeep being a family thing. I guarantee you that your kids would absolutely love going wheelin' with you in a Jeep, and I often see "moms" enjoying it too. I love to see whole families out there enjoying themselves. Even if Mom doesn't get into it, at least you are getting tbe boys out of her hair for a while, right?
I still say try to get a TJ. It will cost ya more initially than getting an older Jeep, but you won't have to do anything to it to make it capable of most of the territory at Turkey Bay.
If you could go around $6,000, I am pretty sure you could get a 97 or 98 four banger TJ (that would be the SE model).
I will definitely help ya find a Jeep!
Jim, glad ya posted in here, and I hope you will make yourself at home here.
The folks in here are some of the nicest folks you will ever meet on the Net. We all try to help each other, and there is no flaming, like you so often see on other web sites.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Jim saw me in the members spotlight and saw that I was from Greenville, Ky, so he sent me an email. That's how Jim and I got hooked up.
We have still not yet met in person, but, hopefully, that is going to change, and Jim will meet me at Turkey Bay and ride shotgun in Thelma Jane some Saturday before too long.
As you can see from his posts, Jim is in the initial stages of Wrangler Fever.
You guys help me find him a Jeep, OK?
Welcome to Edmunds Jeep Wrangler, Jim!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I miss my motorcycle too. However, having had so many friends and acquaintances injured (and a few killed) by circumstances beyond their control, I decided not to push to see the point where my luck would run out. While I'm comfortable with my own skills, the behavior of some other drivers truly scares me. On several occasions I've seen the tragedy of lost limbs when a car driver has pulled out right in front of an oncoming motorcyclist. Another friend had his back broken when he was rear-ended while sitting at a red stop light. While defensive driving should always be practiced, it can't always save you from the actions of others. Purely my decision though.
Good luck with your search!
I just wanted to post a link (with our hosts gracious permission) to an amusing video clip. A little something for all us Jeep owners (and wannabe owners like myself)!
Video link
Now, keep in mind that the clip is about 10MB in size so you may want to reconsider if you're not running on broadband. Also, there has been at least one report of a person having issues after trying to access that link... in which case this is an alternative link:
Alternative Link
Enjoy,
Andrew
ps - the subject title is a direct quote off a Hummer site where I found a link to this little gem. Gotta love the music...
You said the guy's hard top window "folded" up??? The rear window on hard tops swings upward when you open the back end, if that's what you mean. The back window raises up and the tail gate swings out.
Glad to have ya back with us again!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
As far as bikes vs. Wranglers go - I'm like mac. I loved owning a little bike when I was living in Texas, riding those back roads out in the middle of no-where and using almost no gas. But it was the first thing I sold when I decided to move back to L.A. I just couldn't see driving the SoCal freeways so unprotected.
Girls can enjoy off-roading too. Get the Wrangler,leave the kids with a baby sitter, then take your wife with you on an easy dirt road out to some beautiful, isolated spot and enjoy a wonderful, romantic picnic lunch...
Our local paper had a photo a couple of years ago of a hummer rolling down in our nearby OHV area. It looked like someone tried to take one up one of the motorcycle trails and it didn't work. Of course, the driver makes a huge difference in many situations - Tom could get through places where I would get stuck, since he has a great deal more experience than I do with the really rough stuff.
Here is a link to a arm rest for full steel doors. Seems too expensive though.
http://tinyurl.com/neoy
Did you check for a recall on your dash lights? There is a website that explains how to fix it yourself also. Have you seen that?
If I come across it I will post the link.
Hill starts with a manual tranny
There is also the heel to toe technique. You put your heel on the brake and slowly push the gas with your toe.
You can also just start your Jeep in gear and go. I have used that a lot off-roading.
I assume they are water proof but was wondering if it was recommended to treat the fabric or windows w/anything for added protection. For instance there are a couple of products to clean, treat and protect the canvas sails on my Hobie Cat. Not sure if the same theories would apply to the soft top.
I was looking at it in the box over the weekend and was hoping there would be some way to keep that brand new shine & look to it. I'm sure the hard top in the winter will save a bit of wear & tear but any ideas for that summer sun and salty beach air?
Also, how much wear can one expect from the wind while driving at speed on the highway?
Link to their site: http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=protectant
-twylie
Armor All was the only vehicle product I could think of, but had also heard it was oily.
Andrew
I usually get my 303 at the local whitewater store or at the hot tub place. It runs about a dollar an ounce here.
Steve, Host
I thought all H1s came with a rear locking diff. It doesn't look like it was engaged in that video.
I saw a H2 out on a trail in CO. I wanted to see if he would go up this long steep hill climb but he wasn't around when we were by it.
Not certain, but I don't think so. My brother drives an H1 (older model, '97 I think) and one of his plans is to install a locking diff (and wouldn't he be in for a surprise). Apparently it will (or is) offered as an option on new models.
Not really sure on H's in general, but the H2 is not as off-road worthy as its predecessor...
On a more humorous note, I can say with some certainty that the H1 has a MPG rating that's even thirstier than a Wrangler (except the lucky buggers get a diesel engine)! :-)
Andrew
Even if the interior is a bit worn, it isn't too much work to buy a new carpet kit from JC Whitney and install it yourself. It's pretty easy (once you remove the seats). Took me about 1.5 hours with lots of breaks and kids asking questions about whether I knew what I was doing.
You can get decent seat covers anywhere virtually (I got some from Savage Dodge in PA - Mopar parts at 20% off).
If you want to offroad it, I wouldn't really even worry about it too much. Look at some of the pics Tom has in his gallery. You gonna get wet and muddy anyway.
The only thing I had to do mechanically was to get an exhaust manifold serviced and replace the catalytic converter (it broke after we bought it). If you find an early TJ (97-00), I'd check the mileage and if it is under 80,000, have the exhaust system checked for leaks. Under 80,000 and a Jeep dealer should be able to fix any problems. Mine has 85,000 so I missed the cutoff by 5,000. Oh well.
I also had to fix a valve head cover leak, but did that myself this weekend. Most of the bolts were so loose I could loosen them with my fingers. Think I found the leak!
Granted, I'm also doing some additional stuff that is running up the price tag a bit (new top, bikini top, stereo system/soundbar, new Canyon wheels (coming tomorrow!!!!) and tires. Still can't decide between 30x9.5 or 31x10.5. Any votes here?
If you don't already know the gearing on your Jeep, there should be a metal tag attached to one of the differential cover bolts. SOmewhere near the end you'll see some numbers like 307 355 373 or 411. That represents the installed gear ration. If it's 3.07 (not even sure they offered the SE with that ratio, though), I'd say stick to the 30" or else you'll feel like you lost a gear or two. Any of the others will be tollerable to good with the 31's.
-twylie
Thanks for the input. My concern was the 'feel' on the road driving. I knew with bigger tires, it would probably feel a bit more sluggish. My daughter wanted a 'higher Jeep' but I'm not willing to put a lift on it right now as I'm worried enough about her turning abilities in it without raising her CG with a lift. The wider/bigger tires I think will be a better way to go since I doubt she'll be doing any serious offroading in the area (What's mud again?).
I'll check the gearing ratio tonight. I assume I look on the pumpkin differentials. Is that tag on the front or rear or both?
-Paul
The last time I looked a couple of months ago, the NHTSA's web site listed a TSB on the dash lights, but not a recall (sigh). I looked at the page that talked about how to fix them and had just about decided to give it a try. Then one of my (engineer) co-workers gave me an article about how much it can cost when do-it-yourself projects get out of hand, like stripping bolts, etc. So I thought I'd leave it for the pros to do. Especially since I think it could get real expensive real quick, if I screw it up!
If you want to tackle it properly, just make sure you have the right tools for the job. Proper tools, and taking your time to make sure you get it right are the best things you can do. Do you have a Hayne's manual or a FSM?
-Paul
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-twylie
BTW, mine is a 5 speed. Of those ratios, is one considered the 'best'?
-Paul
The pinion gear rotates once per revolution of the drive shaft, so in a 4.11 gear set, the driveshaft and pinion gear make 4.11 revolutions for one revolution of the ring gear. The back tires turn once per revolution of the ring gear.
The higher the numerical value of the gear ratio, the higher the engine RPM for a given speed (as long as the transmission is in the same gear). So, you get better acceleration with a higher numerical number for gear ratio, because the engine turns over more times, generating more power.
Think of pedaling a ten speed bike. In first gear, you can get going much easier from a dead stop, but your legs are pumping faster than they would be in 10th gear. Eventually, your legs are pumping as fast as they can pump, and you need to switch to the next gear, if you want to go faster.
It's crazy, but a higher numerical value for a gear ratio is actually a lower gear.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-twylie
took me over an hour to read 131 post.
Everything is great here in BAMA.
Tazz is topless, doorless & ALL clean.
I enjoyed reading all the post, keep'um coming.
TOM, hope RA is doing better. I have 2 dogs myself.
I went to my local Jeep dealer recently.
they have closed up. So I guess i will have to order my JEEP STUFF online.
KEEP JEEPIN
BAMA
Roll Tide!
Mac? Do you know? Anyone???
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-twylie
Anybody else know much about YJs? Let's help steer Jim away from a "bad year."
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I've been looking at various lift kits for both YJ's and TJ's. The prices are higher for the TJ's, understandably due to the coil spring suspension. I have found the spring over axle lifts which appear to be the easiest and least expensive way to lift one, using the stock springs. Any drawbacks to one of these. Don't get me wrong. I'm not afraid to mod one, I just don't want to spend a couple grand on a lift kit when some spacer blocks, longer U-bolts and longer travel shocks will do the same job.
I'm still a little unclear as to just how much more capable a TJ is. For example, will a YJ with a 3.5" lift and 33" tires be just as capable off road as a similar TJ? I've also noticed most of these companies suggest a CV driveshaft. I know what they are talking about, but are they really necessary?
Another thing I have picked up on, exhaust manifolds. I have read several ads where the seller stated that the manifold had been replaced. I have never replaced a manifold in any vehicle, well except for performance reasons. Is this a common problem in a Jeep?