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2010 Equinox Trailer Harness
Does anyone know where I can purchase a quick connect trailer wiring harness for the '10 'Nox? It seems Chevy only wants to incloude it in their "trailer package" with the hitch and hardware.
I believe I found the open connector behind the driver side taillight. It has three wires which appear to be the correct colors for the brake and blinker lights. I really don't want to use a cut and splice after market harness.
Any help or sources are appreciated.
I believe I found the open connector behind the driver side taillight. It has three wires which appear to be the correct colors for the brake and blinker lights. I really don't want to use a cut and splice after market harness.
Any help or sources are appreciated.
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This makes me real mad - it is causing huge problems for me. If you have any solution or detailed knowledge about how to activate the trialer plug, please let me know ASAP using this forum. If you have a 2010 Equinox with a factory trailer kit, you might be able to help us ou and find out how to activate the wiring by looking into the fuse box and finding a plug-in at a position NOT MARKED WITH A FUNCTION ON THE COVER OF THE FUSE BOX, THAT IS ALSO NOT ONE OF THE TWO POSITIONS IDENTIFIED FOR BLADE FUSES FOR TRAILER LIGHTS. In my Equinox, all positions identified with funtions on the fuse box cover already have a fuse or plug-in in them, so simply putting a plug-in or fuse into a marked position in the fuse box seems unlikley to be the answer.
On the other hand, they sell the entire "Hitch Package" for $182.00. Hitch, receiver and ball, pin, clip, "fuses" and "relays". I'm told you can order the receiver with different offsets and different size balls, but they won't sell the harness and other electrical separate from the the "package".
Since the "package" includes the relays and fuses they must also provide instructions for any activion of the power.
I don't know, I may resell my hitch and go for the GMDirect package. Seems like the least path of least resistance.
I just installed a hitch on my 2010 Equinox, easy as pie. But I am in the same boat re the wiring. I can add a couple things to the discussion. The manual on p. 9-36 shows the fuses. In my vehicle, relay 57 is missing. There is also a relay missing (I think) just south of relay 60. There is no picture of this relay in the book, but the socket holes are present and in the right configuration. Fuses 17, 20, 23 are labeled in the book as trailer fuses. As stated above, these fuses are already installed. If someone can find some lettering of any kind on the plastic plug that is pinned to the chassis, I will try to locate the mate. I cannot find it in my catalog of industry standard connectors (Mouser). I cannot figure out why two adaptors would be needed. Seems crazy. What we really need is someone with the tow package installed who will unplug the adaptors, photograph them thoroughly (including the inside of any "converter" box that may be part of the system), and provide that photo--and also one of the fuse box, to the rest of us.
I did some more sleuthing with a meter and confirmed what dog19 wrote. There is no voltage on the 4-pin connector. The black wire is a true ground, however.
I also ran a continuity check between the yel, grn and brn wires at the plug and the fuse box under the hood. None of the three wires has continuity to any of the socket connections where the two missing relays plug in (missing on my LT model, that is). The one relay that is labeled apparently runs some cooling fan that my vehicle lacks.
My new hypothesis is that the black box in the back near the connector has inside of it a place for a relay and some extra fuses. I didn't feel like removing the nut on the far side of the box and removing it from the vehicle for inspection. I think the lid for this mystery box is held on by four screws that point downward when the box installed in the vehicle.
Regarding the unique connector: if we know the wiring, we can simply splice into the four wires just behind the connector using the common splice connectors made for the purpose.
1. It's 11/4" hitch, not 2". I presume this is because of the 1500lb limit on capacity. Not a big deal., hadn't intended to ahul that kind of load anyway.
2. No fuses or relays came with the package. There's no instruction in the guide to install fuses or a relay, so you have to presume everything is there already. I'm quite certain it is, because.......
3.The harness must be programmed by GM. :mad: You need to call the GM customer service center to have the vehicle programmed. One of the tools required is a scanner. I'm not sure what roll it plays, but I suspect this is a delear tool, so in the end you'll need to pay a visit there....and....
then they gotcha...I haven't called yet, but I surmise you'll have to pay a little service fee, probably in the neighborhood of $100 for the scan and to get programmed.
By the way, GMPartsDirect didn't include the receiver and hitch ball as indicated in the "package" but that's my issue with them.
By the way, the number on the electrical connector to attach behind the taillight...Pl-11. I'm fairly certain it's not P1-11, but P(small L)-11. The 11's are very distinct with the flag at the top.
Lesson learned here.....haggle to have it included in the sale or spring for the $350 as a dealer option
Can you describe the cable? You say that it must be programmed. Does this mean that it has some kind of box as a part of the cable in which something programmable is hiding? Or is the cable just wires? Someone said something about the cable coming in two parts with two separate part numbers. Is this true?
I know you've already had an aggravating day, so I'll quit peppering you with questions.
I have found a wiring harness made by Valley at Auto Anytime, http://www.autoanything.com/towing/69A4158A0A0.aspx. As I have not purchased or installed it I do not know if it works on the 2010.
Hope this helps out someone and they reply as to weather it works!!
The instructions for the factory hitch shows how to unscrew the drain plug in the spare tire well. GM # 20807039 threads to the hitch plug and plugs into the receptor plug in the right floor area, underneath the cover. GM # 10364351 receives at the hitch plug and terminates into the standard 4 wire trailer plug, screwed to the left of the hitch receiver - which is 1 1/4"!
My argument with GM is the little hitch they send is rated at 400 # Tongue / 3,500 # GTW with statement "consult your vehicle owner's manual for maximum trailer weight for your specific vehicle..." SO, those of us with 2" accessories - bike racks, carriers, tailgate grills, etc. are being told it matters and that we have to spend $40 for an "adapter"....
So much for a Fascist government bailing out the UAW for wages and benefits at GM plants idled for 8 months..... Did anyone note only 1/3 of GM is in America?? Or, that it has been illegal for over 20 years (FASB 106...) to fail to account for and fund all retiree benefits during the working active year of accrual of those benefits??
NOW, even when we find better hitches than the cheaparse unit GM gets from THULE, we have to have our dealer program for electricity to power our trailer lites?? Did they forget any 6th grade delinquent can splice into the Brake lite, Left and Right turn signal. My suspicion is the LED lites on most trailers will not add enuff load to disrupt anything anyway......
I’ll quote from the directions that came with the hitch.
“Note: Installing this Trailer Harness system requires programming of the vehicle. This is done with the Service Programming System in TIS2WEB. The installer needs to call the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC). The TCSC will update the vehicle calibrations in TIS 2WEB
Tools Required
Scan Tool
Service Programming System (SPS-TIS2WEB)
Also Required
Call TCSC (1-800-826-6860) to obtain programming instructions
You must have the vehicle’s VIN that will be upgraded:”
:sick: crp1011 – I tried calling that TCSC number above but they are closed until Monday.
:confuse: wangltz – that is a harness that has to be spliced onto the tail light wires. Go to a dealer and ask to read the operating manual. I forget exactly where I read it, but messing with the wiring can affect the air bags electronics. It seems the electronics on the vehicle have been designed so tight, that any extra draw may impact normal operation.
I can tell you that is not the best deal aftermarket deal on the street, especially since it is a class II hitch. (Even though the vehicle can handle more than a class II). I have an aftermarket Class III sitting in my garage right now and I paid less than that price for it.
:surprise: newobie said – SO, those of us with 2" accessories - bike racks, carriers, tailgate grills, etc. are being told it matters and that we have to spend $40 for an "adapter"....
To my knowledge, a bike rack does not require brake and blinkers so, no, you do not need the harness adn you can get an aftermarket hitch--unless you are going to tow. If you can wait a week I’ll cut you a deal you can’t refuse for a hitch since I’m sitting on 2 right now.
Did they forget any 6th grade delinquent can splice into the Brake lite, Left and Right turn signal. My suspicion is the LED lites on most trailers will not add enuff load to disrupt anything anyway......
yea, but I’m not voiding my warranty for a few bucks.
Thank you for quoting the instructions. It's a bizarre thing to have done, IMHO. The fact that they ask for the VIN suggests a level of vehicle feature tracking beyond anything I have ever heard of. The instructions seem to say that the installer needs both a scan tool and a device called a "Service Programming System (SPS-TIS2WEB)." And then he still has to call into the Techline Customer Support Center to give them the VIN and get further instructions. This is a mind-boggling, Byzantine process for such a simple addition. My guess is that if I can get a technician to hook up the required gear and program the computer, voltage will be sent to the connector in the tire well, whether or not I have their cables installed. I wonder if they will quiz the installer to be sure I have purchased the correct cabling. If they refuse to reprogram the computer unless I buy their cable, I will be very put out.
Splicing into the lighting wiring will probably work, but there are some potential drawbacks. There might be some minor dimming of the tail and brake/turn lights. Depending on the trailer, it might even push the limit of the fusing, and a larger fuse would probably push the limits on the wiring. I am doubtful that it would affect the airbag circuit, but I can believe that the factory would suggest this possibility. They don't want anyone messing with any part of the system without their permission, that's clear enough.
Full details mwill be known shortly.
You would think they could program the computer remotely. They can open the doors, sound the horn, flash the lights and (in some models) gradually slow the car in the case of its being stolen. There is no technical barrier to what they can control, really. It may be that the purpose of supplying the VIN is to allow them to do the actual programming remotely. But then I don't see why a scan tool is needed.
If GM goes under, who takes over the OnStar system?
Is there an OnStar privacy policy anywhere? Could the Feds require GM to allow them access to OnStar GPS data? Could a sufficiently adept PI gain access to that data?
Okay, I am rapidly descending into conspiracy theory and paranoia--which I am not very susceptible to, usually. My feeling is that it's all good and that they mostly have our best interests in mind.
RUNOX would you consider letting everyone know where you got your deal on your hitch?
I hunted high and low and this is the best deal I could find.
GMPartsDirect.com - $180 for hitch and harnesses, $30 shipping and handling
You can also get just the harnesses here, P/N 10364351 for $51.72 and P/N 20807039 for $29.30. List price is about $120 for both.
If you're interested in the complete package, adding the receiver, ball and pin - $219 + $30 shipping. Again this is the GM OEM "trailering package".
http://chevrolet.dealerfit.com/store/chevrolet-equinox-trailer-hitch-package-pro- - - - - - d691_31220.php
My options are: 1) go in without any wiring and hope they can and will program it as is; 2) get a standard trailer connector pigtail and splice it into the four wires just behind the pigtail connector already present in the Equinox before I take it in for programming. Hmm. Not sure what to do. Any advice?
$80. Is $80 worth jeapardizing the warranty. Not in my eyes. Not with something like 13 onboard computers. Besides, Have seen how small the space is where you want to splice the wires? Good luck.
GMPartsDirect.com - P/N 10364351 for $51.72 and P/N 20807039 for $29.30.
Don't buy from them. Return of parts to them is difficult and expensive, and the item is labeled non-returnable, so you risk much. They will provide no phone number to talk to them. They billed my credit card immediately after I ordered and before I got the item so I cannot block payment.
They will credit you account for the amount of the charge and not charge you interest while they investigate your claim. :mad:
I stopped doing business with anyone on the net that does not list complete details on returns, their contact address and phone info. :lemon:
Hope this helps and GOOD LUCK!
So I will purchase the harness from my local dealer and talk my salesman into getting things programed when I get the hitch installed.
This just seems like a BIG deal just have lights on a trailer the few times I will use it, but one must take care of that WARRANTY!
Thanks for all the great imformation from everyone and DRIVE SAFE :shades:
Part no. 19169825 is the trailer hitch kit for the 2009 Equinox. As I have stated, the 09 harness does not fit the '10 electrical connector. The '09 hitch will fit the '10 Equinox, the harness will not. One of two things happened. GMPD shipped the wrong trailer kit, i.e. one for the '09 Equinox, not for the '10, or you ordered the '09 kit. Check your paperwork, if the order is for the '10, I have no doubt GMPD will exchange it and pay for your end of the shipping.
The 2010 trailer hitch does not come with fuses and relays, as they are installed at the factory.
Since I live 2 hours from where I bought my Nox ( it was the only dealer left with a '10 Nox on site with the features I wanted and would clunk my '97 Grand Cherokee due to the July run on lot stock), I tried a couple of local dealers for activation first. They wanted $120 to activate the harness since I did not buy from them, so I collared my sales guy and he squared everything with the service guy. My dealer was really accommodating and didn't even questionmy purchase and installation of the hitch.
The programming took a bit over an hour but this was because this was the first activation this dealership had to perform. They had to hook the scanner to the dashboard connector and program it from there. The reason they mention calling the Chevy Customer Center is to get the codes to program in and so Chevy has a record of the activation.
Note, while I bought the GM trailer hitch kit with the harness from GMPD, I installed an aftermarket 2" receiver before I went and the dealer didn't question it.
If anyone wants a 11/4' hitch drop me a note. $100 and that includes shipping.
As I mentioned before, there are no fuses or relays in the '10 kit. They are included in '04-09 kits, but not this one.
To attach the connector behind the tail light, reach behind with your left hand to steer the open end toward the gap in the body wall and to get a little leverage behind the connector. There is only one opening that fits a hand, you'll find it. Take the erase end of a pencil and gently spear the backside of the harness connector and maneuver it toward the open connector. Once you get it lined up gently press the connectors together. I doesn't take a lot of pressure to snap them together.
There a round rubber seal that closes the plug hole you opened up in the tire pit. Work the rubber gasket from the top and it pops right in. I put a little silicone caulk around the gasket from under neath just to keep salty winter moisture from getting up into the hole. It is a ripe spot for rusting if not protected further.
The GM hitch has a welded ear for securing the trailer end connector. The aftermarket hitches do not. To put the hitch on you need to remove a little hatch bottom center of the bumper cover. It snaps out. With the hatch off and the hitch on, you find the GM harness has a fitting on the end where it secures to GM hitch. It has 2 screws/ holes. I held it to the under side of the bumper cover right next to the receiver. There is nice gap there and the GM fitting fits perfectly. I drilled two holes that match the fitting and used the small bolt and nut to secure it the bumper cover. The cover is very rigid at the point. I then used a couple of plastic ties and secure the harness wire to the top side of hitch bar hidden the bumper cover so all i=s out of sight and secured from bouncing around.
Remember that little hatch you remove from the bumper cover ? When all is done, that hatch snaps right back on the bumper cover and completely hides the hitch. Just unsnap it whenever you need to use the hitch. Just make sure the trailer connector is set as far back as it can go under the bumper cover.
I am interested in your extra hitch.
Since the forum states "Your personal security is important to us, so please do not post your email address in a message." how do I contact you to get some additional details?
Now that I have an Equinox ordered, I am thinking I will negotiate the dealer either turning on the trailering option upon delivery or allow me to bring it back in for programming after I purchase the hitch. I am interested to know if it has to be installed prior to the programming or if the programming can be done prior to the hitch installation.