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http://www.azcarsandtrucks.com/1957goldenhawk.html
I'm sure you could get this beauty for $10,000 less than the RM auction, and it's a nicer car with a fairly recent restoration.
Auction prices are often not real market prices. If you take the time to hunt, rather than sit in an auction and drink cheap wine, you're going to make yourself a much better deal. About $35,000 is market correct for a very sharp SC GH, in my opinion.
I just saw a very decent '63 Avanti, with a re-paint in non-original color, go off for $11,000. Solid #3+ driver, outstanding interior, good fiberglass throughout, motor was typical leaker but ran well.
Also, what's a Paxton supercharger for an Avanti worth about? Maybe $1000?? This one looks rebuilt, the later type with multiple mounting holes, not the original type that Studebaker put on it.
They are located near which US city and state?
There is probably a local Chapter of the Driver's Club near them too.
Oh, the family has no interest in the parts. They just had a virtual warehouse of parts dumped on them. We are talking about buildings-full, not a few parts to sell. So this is a problem for them. I saw some pix, and there are definitely stacks of NOS parts in original boxes--but also old transmissions, engines, generators--lots of tired looking stuff. I saw a few cars stashed in the background--a '55 something (couldn't see beyond the grille) and what looks to be a 4-door Lark. There may be more cars, dunno. I saw bunches of steering wheels and fenders hanging from the ceiling. Photos weren't great.
Anyway, this is a boatload of stuff pretty much thrown into a couple of buildings. A big mess but you know, there must be treasures in there.
I have a Studebaker Driver's Club Roster at home and will find some names and phone numbers of members/clubs/vendors in that area when I return tonight. However, you will have to contact me through my website because I am not supposed to state the names and addresses here in the public forum.
Avanti always.
I'd be interested in forwarding names of BIG players to the owners, --buyers who could put up thousands of bucks and buy wholesale lots (and preferably with a big truck). I don't think this is an opportunity for swap meet types.
One problem with NOS parts supplies is that the NOS parts left over are often the ones that DIDN'T require replacement--that's why they are NOS--they are leftover stuff. Of course, that sometimes applies to those nice rare shiny metal bits, that alsos didn't break or wear out for decades.
So far as I know, there are no BIG players in Studebaker parts near Taxachusetts. They are as rare as conservative Republicans in that State. You should have your friends buy you a subscription to Turning Wheels Magazine and then contact a local drivers club chapter in that area. I suggest that you send images by E-mail of this treasure trove.
The name of Studebaker International has been mentioned in some of uplander guy's earlier posts. Another possibility is http://www.myersstudebaker.com/ I know those people because they were located in Los Angeles, California before it got too expensive to do business here.
I know a guy who said the judging at a Studebaker Drivers' Club national meet was stricter than at Hershey when he had the same car judged. Some of that, no doubt, is that at Hershey the judges aren't specifically Studebaker experts.
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?46179-another-type-of-Cand- y
I used to judge and it finally reached a point where I found it ridiculous (by my standards), especially when the cars were assembly-line products.
I think mass-produced cars should be judged by the same standards as the people who built them.
I used to dock cars that were over-restored, and people used to get *very* mad at me.
This nit-picking takes all the joy out of the hobby, in my opinion.
Shifty, Amen! I agree!
I really can enjoy looking at a perfectly-restored car, but an unrestored, excellent original does more for me. People definitely over-restore.
My '63 Lark Daytona Hardtop with R1 and Skytop scored 350 out of 400 at the last S.D.C. national meet I had it judged at, in 2002. I was happy with that.
However my pet peeve is cars that don't look the way they usually were back in the day. 3 out of 4 of the Chevs had continental tire kits? Nope, not here in Indiana.
Even the Ford is over done. Most people didn't have the hood ornament and the bumper reflectors mirroring the shape of the taillights.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
When I see Model A owners arguing over the shape of a bolt-head, I really want to be somewhere else. As if Henry Ford's workers didn't use whatever was on the shelf.
I believe I recall that color in 1956. Is it original paint or a repair? Andre 1969 has a website that shows original colors with their names. I don't recall I've ever seen this color in a car show on a 55-56 Chev. But it feels perfectly original. Not every Chev in 1956 or 57 was red, but a lot of red ones survived. There were lots of green-blue Chevs and there are several here in Midwest on the car show circuits.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I don't think anything makes a nice old car look more hokey than a set of fender skirts! I think it's more of a back east thing.
The only thing (in my not so humble opinion) that looks worse is a continental kit.
Continental kits are the worst.
I always complain how Chevys and Fords at old car shows are so commonplace, but I could really enjoy a '56 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe in a non-red color with no skirts, no continental kit, and no other exterior accessories...just the whitewalls and full wheel covers.
Although it doesn't make sense, money-wise, to restore them, I always enjoy seeing a lower-line model at a Hershey meet....like a '58 Bel Air, or '53 Ford Mainline. By the looks of most old car meets, all the manufacturers ever made were brightly-colored hardtops and convertibles!
I think a car which looked good with fender skirts--they were a factory option--was the '70-72 Monte Carlo. To me, that car's lines looked very natural with skirts and they didn't make the car look too bulbous/heavy.
Look how nice the 1959 Silver Hawk flathead 6 is. No power steering pump, power brake booster, electric window or seat motors. The spark plugs are in the top of the cylinder head where you can change them in 5 minutes plus you can easily get 20 miles to a gallon of gas.
A Chevy 210 did the job as well as a Bel Air hardtop and the 6 cyl engines were more than enough to please most people.
Back then, people were more practical. They didn't "need" sunroofs, NAVI, leather etc. Air Conditioning in most parts of the country was a luxury and people wouldn't pony up the extra 400.00.
A lot of people looked at power windows as "just another thing to break".
My parents always bought Buicks. The 1951 Roadmaster they bought new was kept until 1966 when they replaced it with a spiffy new Skylark that they kept until my mother died in 1993. I remember as a kid, I thought the factory A/C was a wonderful thing. Crank windows and manual brakes that worked fine.
When a family friend bought a new Chevy II, I remember my mother saying..." She will be paying on that car for three years!"
Back in those days, a 24 month term was common and a 36 month term was considered foolish.
Now, the norm is 60 months with some people going 84 months which is worse than nuts!
But flatheads are kinda cool. They can idle at 350 rpm and with an overdrive transmission, can get fairly good mileage. Very simple to work on as long as you don't break head bolts.
It was on a Pontiac. Luckilly an old timer was there who knew how to bail a 17 yer old kid out of a jam.
So the old guy takes some rope, cuts it into small lengths, and stuffs the rope into the spark plug holes and let's it drop down into the cylinder. Then he gets a socket wrench, grabs hold of the pulley nut, and turns the engine over by hand. Well the rope, bunched up on top of the piston, gently presses the head off the block!
So, he sacrificed a head to save the block.
The rope trick sounds like it might have worked on that Ford!
Interesting, some of the tricks these old timers picked up along the way!
The Studebaker steering provides a pretty good mechanical advantage steering so you really don't need the power if you have a light motor up front. Although it is a bit slow, it steers true. My mother had a 1975 Mustang that needed constant correction when driving straight ahead at speed and had to get the ball joints serviced or replaced on a regular basis too.
A few issues ago in Turning Wheels, someone asked about converting standard brakes to power and was advised not to bother with that unless there was a junk parts car near by.
The Studebaker Champion 6 is very smooth and quiet, even if it is not strong. I don't need to go faster than than 80 mph in a 50-year old car. I had two Larks with that motor and never had to adjust or grind the valves. The ease of maintenance was wonderful compared to my Commander where I have to pull the battery and battery box to change the spark plugs on the driver's side and then try to get the plugs in around the power steering hoses. I had to get the hydrovac power booster rebuilt again a few months ago and will install a new electric window motor in the passengers side door when I get the motivation.
My army surplus 1960 Lark was the most maintenance- free car I ever owned and the three speed with overdrive transmission made the car quicker and is still my favorite transmission.
About the best conclusion I could make on the subject would be that a flathead 6 car might be "less difficult" to steer than a big V8, but still not easy by any means.
After all, power steering was developed for trucks.
Back in the 50s, people were used to not having power steering, so you won't hear contemporary complaints in 50s car magazines very much.
My opinion of the easiest 'old American car' to steer? Chrysler Airflows--due to the unusual engine placement.
Old time mechanics were a lot smarter than I might have given them credit for being. At least most of them.
I was around a lot of mechanics in my youth. My dad was always going to different mechanics asking them how to do, what to do for repairing farm equipment, and even cars, etc. I realized that as much of a do-it-yourself mechanic he was, he was always clear that others knew more. He made use of that knowledge.
It's amazing how smart some of those guys were. They didn't have texting, email, and the WWW to share through. But they learned and shared some of what they learned.
The low idle speed of the Studebaker flathead made me recall my brother teaching me to drive when I was 10,11,12? or so. I already drove tractors. But he put me in his 1950 Ford in third gear. Had me start it and let the clutch out slowly. Who needs first and second. It pulled itself right out of the bog down. I even remember it was on the lovers lane road near our farm, a little used gravel road in between the 1-mile spaced roads characteristic of Indiana in our eastern area of the state.
And, our 1950 Studebaker had a 6-cylinder. I recall dad calling it an L-head motor.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1. Deliberately cross-wire the spark plug wires so that the engine would backfire through the carburetor, blowing dirt out of the float valve when it got stuck.
2. Putting your palm over the carburetor when the choke didn't work and then cranking the engine by shorting out the solenoid with a screwdriver (got you out of walking when your car wouldn't start on a cold cold day because the choke was frozen open). You need to have the ignition key to the "ON' position for this to work.
3. When adjusting valves, split the firing order into two halves and write them in chalk on the inside hood. So 153624 for a six cylinder was
153
624
What this told you was that you adjust #1 when you see #6 lifters both closed...and so on through all six of them.
4. If your anemic 6V battery was too weak to crank your car in the cold, you just took it out of the car and brought it in the house for 1/2 hour and warmed it up---often cranked much better after that.
5. A collapsed or stuck hydraulic lifter could often be revived by putting a pint or so of automatic transmission fluid into the engine oil. ATF is highly detergent.
6. Driveshaft imbalance and vibration could often be cured by tightening a hose clamp around the driveshaft, and rotating it time and again until the weight of the clamp's bolthead served as a balance weight. Sometimes this took you 3 or 4 tries (you turned it 90 degrees each time if the first one didn't work).
7. You could often remove and even install a fan belt that was in a tight spot by inserting a piece of wood under the belt and hitting the starting with a remote starter button---the belt would jump off, and also jump back on. Very slick.
I learned the hard way that to pull the rear brake drums with a puller, you better leave the nut on the end of the axle or it might flare at the end and won't be able to get the nut back on after you replace the brake shoes..
The good news is you can cut the flared end off with a hacksaw.
The bad news is that it will take a couple of hours to do it.
And I lerned the AT trick only my guy poured half of the can into the carburator while the car ran. Smoked like hell and the stuck lifter was cured.
But the scariest one was watching a old guy pour WATER into the carb of a carboned up Buick. You should have heard the noises that came from that old Buick and you should have seen the black crap that came out of the exhaust!
It ran like a top afterwards.
His caution to me was to not pour the water in too fast or it would shatter a piston.
We once told a guy that the fastest way to blow out carbon and increase power was to come down a long hill in second gear, switch off the ignition, count to ten and turn it back on. He believed us.
He enjoyed the explosion so much that he spent the next few days scaring people and rattling windows until he finally blew the muffler apart!
Todays cars are no fun.
While Studebaker flatheads were gutless, the engines made by Packard and Hudson of that type had tremendous torque for their day. Hudson did quite well in early NASCAR and stock car racing, and really well in road-racing, using those old flatheads. Even today, you can see old Hudsons on the vintage race circuit and believe me, they can move out.
HAd another "old timer" tell me a story about a night he was driving his 1955 Oldsmobile flat out going through Montana. Not a car in sight and he was cruising along at 100 MPH or more. Real smart with the tires they made at the time.
He looked in his rear view mirror and saw the headlights of an approaching car! he figured it was a cop so he backed off a little but not much.
The car quickly narrowed the gap. He just couldn't believe his eyes when he saw it was a Hudson! He watched the Hudson't tailights fade out of sight!
Those Oldsmobiles were no slouches so that took something to do that!
Oldsmobile built a car in 49-50 people called "Bubble Coupes". They were basically a Chevy with that overhead valve Olds engine.
One of the fastest cars of all were the 1955 Buick Centurys. Nothing more that the smaller Special with the Roadmaster engine. At a recent car show, I saw a 2 door post Century with a stick shift. Nothing fancy. All black. Small hubcaps etc.
It looked fast just sitting there. I think the CHP used these.
At any rate, in a smooth highway, would an old suspension be acceptable today?
I never hesitated driving it anywhere but I knew it's limits.
I would cruise at no more than 70 leaving more tnan ample room from other cars.
I didn't push it through corners and I respected it's age.
Once when a guy ran a red light, I had to make a panic stop and it did fine.
Still, it was a floaty old Buick and I kept that in mind!
I believe that is true and I do it to my own motor from time to time. The water steam cleans the valves and combustion chambers.
We once told a guy that the fastest way to blow out carbon and increase power was to come down a long hill in second gear, switch off the ignition, count to ten and turn it back on. He believed us.
We used to do the same thing with Jeeps when I was in the army in Germany. Sometimes we did it in a tunnel, which scared the hell out of the "rads."
In Re flathead vs. OHV: The OHV engine has an advantage when high octane gasoline is available because it can have higher compression and a better combustion chamber. The "L-head" engine is something like an overhead cam engine because the camshaft pushes in a direct line to the valves without going through push rods and rocker arms. Both L-head and overhead cam engines are quiet and can attain high rpm's before "valve float" becomes a problem. The overhead cam engine has the best features of both engines.
The increased octane in gasoline had a lot to do with increased engine performance in the 1950s. The Studebaker Champion 6 had only 80 horsepower in 1950, but was up to 100 -103 hp. by 1955. By comparison the 1950 Ford V-8 was rated at 100 hp in 1950. The OHV engine did not have a great advantage over the L-Head engine until the octane rating of gasoline increased which made higher compression possible..