Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine also have many miles of dirt roads. Most are on standard maps and are still used by anyone getting from point A to point B. Connecticuts dirt roads are few in number and most are restricted. Too bad-I love driving dirt roads during any season. Enjoy California. I used to visit friends in Hement and Idlewild. Lots of good Jeep country up there but that was in the 70's. Probably changed by now. Go Easy, John
I do not live too far from either of those places. And I can tell you if you have not been there since the 70’s you probably would not recognize them due to the amount of building in Riverside County. When I moved to Corona it was to get away from the people in Orange County. I had open fields around me. After almost 12 years the open fields near me are gone. I have homes, shopping centers, golf courses and even a new fire station / police substation near me now. There are sill places to go in a Jeep, buy you have drive a little further.
OK. Longer explanation. Reflushed the system, including a flush of just the heater core and hoses, also a reverse flush through the h/c inlet hose back thru the water pump and out the bottom rad hose. Re-filled and tried my best to make sure everything was properly "burped"; no heat. I traced the cable from the temp control slider to what appears to be a mechanical connection to the blend valve (don't see evidence of a stepper, but maybe I need the FSM I ordered). It seems to be functioning unless there's some breakage inside the whole duct area with the actual blender valve. Thinking I'm just inept at refilling and burping the system, I also took it to a shop and had it re-flushed and re-filled by professionals. Still no heat. (I can only imagine it's pretty darned clean inside, though!)
As far as the cooling performance of the system, it seems to be working great. The new rad does let everything run a little cooler than the old OEM one, but not so cool to make me think the thermostat's stuck open (which is a new one). I think it's either a broken "flapper" inside the blend valve or perhaps some trapped air still in the heater core or lines which no one has been able to burp out. I guess I'm looking for some "eureka" event from Mac or someone based on my synopsis. Sorry it's taking me so long! On the other hand, Tom asked me to report back, and this a great group of Jeepers, so....?
Any ideas? (I really prefer to resolve this on "my own" with your help!) I know the dealers' kids gotta eat too, but there's this whole concept of the Wrangler being a simple vehicle and all..... Thanks!
I have a '97 Wrangler and have a problem with the air outtake for the windshield defroster. Air is being circulated but not coming out of the top. Has anyone had this problem and know of any remedies. Someone told me the "lid" to redirect the flow up is stuck in the closed position. Can a dealer fix this and how much?
Ok, so you have a '97 or '98, which are the only models that use a cable rather than a motor to move the blend door (it's an actual door or flap, not a valve). Just because the cable moves the lever on the outside of the heater housing, doesn't mean the blend door is moving on the inside.
If both heater hoses are getting hot then the heater core must be hot, therefore the problem is that air isn't being sent through the heater core. The most likely cause is that the blend door isn't functioning, but I guess there might be a dead possum in there. I think a blend door malfunction would head my list though.
Yes, the door or flap that directs the air isn't moving. It could be broken inside the heater housing, or it could be a control issue outside the housing, which would be easier and cheaper to fix. Yes, a dealer could fix it, and the cost could be anything from $0 upwards, depending on whether a control arm needs to be snapped back in place, or if a whole new heater housing is required.
I'd suggest it could be either a defective t-stat (I've had 2 new ones that were "bad" over the years) or possibly a bad/plugged water pump since I didnt' see a separate heater control valve coming off the cooling system (although it's mentioned in the troubleshooting below).
If your radiator hoses and hoses going to the heater core aren't getting hot, you can either test or replace the tstat to see if the problem moves in the system. Here are the troubleshooting items I found for no or poor heater performance.
INADEQUATE HEATER PERFORMANCE . THERMOSTAT FAILED IN OPEN POSITION 1 . Has a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) number 17 been set? 2. Coolant level low. 3. Obstructions in heater hose fittings at engine . 4. Heater hose kinked. 5. Some models with certain engines are equipped with a water control valve located on one of the heater hoses . This valve maybe defective. 6. Water pump is not pumping water to heater core. When the engine is fully warmed up, both heater hoses should be hot to the touch. If only one of the hoses is hot, the water pump may not be operating correctly. The accessory drive belt may also be slipping causing poor water pump operation .
resolution: 1 . Refer to On-Board Diagnostics in the manual text and replace thermostat if necessary. 2. Refer to Testing Cooling System for Leaks in the manual text. Repair as necessary. 3. Remove heater hoses at both ends and check for obstructions. Repair as necessary. 4. Locate kinked area and repair as necessary. 5. Refer to Group 24, Heating and Air Conditioning for diagnosis . Repair as necessary. 6. Refer to Water Pumps in this group. Repair as necessary. If a slipping belt is detected, refer to Engine Accessory Drive Belts in this group. Repair as necessary.
Sorry to hear about your problems and I'm sure you'll track it down soon (through process of elimination if nothing else :-) )
Just had my dealership call and tell me they just received 3 of them in today. I will try to go by tonight or mabye tomorrow to test drive one. Hopefully he knows what he is talking about and they are still on the lot to test.
I'm sitting on an off-ramp this morning waiting to turn and I get rear-ended (pretty hard-my neck's sore) by some twerp in an old Cavalier sedan. I wasn't even all that mad; I just motioned them to follow me up the road, and then signaled them to follow me in to a gas station...they kept on going past the station! I got their tag number, so hopefully the police will find them (shouldn't be hard to spot a blue early 90's Cavalier with a now SQUASHED bumper and shattered headlight!). No real visible damage to my Unlimited, though; small scuff on the bumper, and the tailgate appears to be a little out of alignment now (I'm guessing they bounced off my spare tire). Unbelievable, my Jeep's still a week shy of it's 6 month birthday. Oh well, I figure even if the police don't catch the guy, his Cav got hurt a LOT worse than my Jeep did, so that seems only fair. Hopefully the rest of the day won't be a downhill slide from here.
Yup, I hugged my Jeep today (it saved my [non-permissible content removed]!)
That's not good. Glad to hear you weren't badly injured, but you might want to get yourself checked out in the next couple of days all the same.
You might also want to check out the tailgate more thoroughly. It's quite common for it to be badly damaged after the spare takes a hit, it just doesn't show until you take the wheel off.
Another nice reason for body armor - go ahead hit my 3/16" inch steel with your plastic and fiberglass body!
Glad you are okay, but like mac said, get yourself checked to make sure all is good. Those neck injuries have a way of coming back to really hurt if you're not careful.
You're right, I suppose it could be kinda caved in behind the spare...I'll have to pull it this weekend and take a look. I've already got an appointment to go to a claim center on Monday to get it evaluated. Even if my tailgate's toast, I still made out way better than that Cavalier did! ;-)
I had decided to have the toe-in set and just live with my bent tie rod for a while.
When they got the weight off the front end to do the alignment, the guy grabbed the left front tire and shook it. There was a BIG TIME wobble, which means the hub bearing is shot. The bearing is integral to the hub assembly, so no such thing as just changing out a bearing: the whole unit must be replaced.
Guess how much that part lists for? I checked with the DC dealer that I do business with, and the parts guy said the list price was $305!!!! The Autozone price was $329. I always get a discount at the dealership, and the parts guy told me I could get the part for $225. I told him to go for it, but he has to get it in from a warehouse in St. Louis. Might have it as early as Tuesday.
I'm not going to whine about the part failure, after all the miles Thelma Jane has seen on the trails. She Jane is only four years old and has only been off roaded during the last three years. I go virtually every Saturday, so Thelma Jane has as many trail miles on her as most ten or fifteen year old Jeeps!
I stay out of mud and water whenever I can, but it cannot be totally avoided at Turkey Bay. I'm sure water and mud have a lot to do with that bearing failure.
It was so nice of that parts guy to discount the part that much for me. It's not like I buy thousands of dollars worth of parts or anything.
You see so many negative posts about car dealerships, but I have been well treated at two or three different places. It's just a matter of establishing a good relationship. If you go in with a chip on your shoulder, you are probably not going to be given the best of treatment.
Definitely see someone. While whiplash can be just a minor pain in the neck, it can also be something worse.
One of the reasons I called my '98 Sport my Noble Black Steed is that something along those lines happened when he was about 6 months old. My other half was calmly driving, minding our own business in the carpool lane. A compact pickup tried to change into our lane right in front of us - I'm sure he didn't look. The Jeep climbed the curve on the wall (I thought we would roll but we didn't - my other half did a great job of keeping the wheels straight) and we scraped both the wall as well as the pickup. We drove away while the other guy had to wait for a tow truck (of course, the other guy's insurance ended up having to pay over $4,000 repairs - all of it just body work). Wranglers are very tough vehicles.
I have seen posts on a Jeep website where people are replacing their hubs with a part that only costs about half as much as even the discounted price I am paying.
Mac, or anyone else who has some knowledge on the subject, are they most likely getting as high quality as original equipment? Who is the supplier for the OEM hub?
I checked Autozone, remember, and they wanted $329.99. I will have to review those posts again to see where people are getting those low priced hubs.
Also, a Jeep Bud talked to a guy who deals in auto parts, and that guy said he could get my a hub for about $130. According to THAT guy, the hub for a 98 Grand Cherokee is the same part as for the 01 Wrangler. The price is MUCH lower for the Grand. Guess that happens a lot? Just gotta know which parts are interchangeable and ask for the cheaper one???
Does anyone know if Timken HA597449 (01 Wrangler) is exactly the same part as Timken 513084 (98 Grand).
I found a website, teamautoparts.com, that lists BOTH of those part numbers I mentioned, HA597449 and 513084 for the front wheel hub/bearing assembly for a 2001 Wrangler. They list the Timken HA597449 for $106.10 and the BCA/National 513084 for $149.50.
Are either of those as good as the OEM part? Does Timken or BCA supply DC with the OEM parts?
It appears that Timken and BCA both make a part number 513084. Can that be right? The same manufacturer makes the exact same part under two differnent part numbers for the same application???
Now I R REALLY CORNFUSED!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S. The above doesn't make sense without putting it with the previous posts, so let me explain.
Part numbers HA597449 and 513084 are both made by Timken and are both listed for the 2001 Wrangler front wheel bearing. So, Timken makes two part numbers for the same application and uses part numbers HA597449 and 513084.
Depends how deep you want to get into it really. Timken is a long established manufacturer that used to be 'all american'. Many things have changed in recent years, though that doesn't necessarily mean for the worse.
Personally, I'd opt for the cheapest and check it more often than you have been doing. That will give you a benchmark to decide what to do when your other one goes (and trying to keep out of mud and water will help too!).
While I think of it, try and straighten that tie rod before you have the toe-in reset. It's much easier for it to carry on bending if it already has a bend in it.
The cheaper replacement will be a 'pattern' part. It probably won't come from the original supplier to DC, but it will be a dimensionally correct copy. The bearings in it could come from a variety manufacturers, whether you use an OEM or pattern part. It's just unfortunate that you can't easily change the bearings alone.
On the bright side, the front bearings usually last a lifetime unless you contaminate them.
Too bad. It was great in the 70's. I went to stay with several longhaired friends in Laguna Beach in 73. We were re-building a trimaran that sank off Mexico. My friends thought they were going to make it to Hawaii. These were the old hippie days. Using nails instead of screws:). I then went to Balboa Island to stay with other friends from the East Coast and that was getting very crowded but alot of fun. Then I headed to Hemet (sp?) and to Idlewild and it was great. Dogs ran free, the air was clean, I was very single, few people and ideal for a Jeep. I would not recognize the places but they probably would not recognize me either. But I still have an adventureous spirit- me and my Jeep of course. John
The hair may be gone, and the times may have changed, but your Jeep would be instantly recognisable to anyone from the 70's. The only others in current production that I can think of would be the Mini and the Beetle.
John - when was the last time you were out here? You wouldn't recognize any of the beach towns, or for that matter, most of SoCal. You would probably feel right at home around Frazier Park - it is one of the few areas that hasn't changed much over the years.
While it wasn't much of a test, GiGi handled the snow covered streets of my subdivision this afternoon. There's about an inch or 2 of snow here and it is SO beautiful! The road didn't seem icy at all, just a little snow covered, so there was good traction. She didn't even wiggle her tail at the spot that is often icy. It'll be interesting to see what conditions are like tomorrow morning, though.
I was in Newport Beach about 8 years ago. Very built up!!!! I have an old friend who bought a house on the beach in 68 for $70000. We laughed at him at the time. I was in Vermont Friday and Saturday staying with friends in Felchville, pop.600. It was lightly snowing and then became crystal clear at night. Beautiful. You could smell the wood burning stoves and hear no noise and it was completely dark. Roads were slick but no problem. Just drove slow. It made me wish I had the soft top on. I would have put it down, heater full blast, driving slow on those old roads and had even more fun. But I had the hard top and still had fun. Then I drove across Vermont (Sat AM @ sunrise thru New Hampshire) to Cape Cod. Went to Coast Guard Beach for a few hours and returned to Connecticut. About 14 wandering hours in the Jeep and I had a good time. The first snow is exciting-at least it is in Vermont. Have Fun-John
What would be a good basic winch that could handle a TJ in a place like Turkey Bay? I could opt for the 9.5ti from Warn, or I could be more practical and get something perhaps not as feature-laden. I was thinking about the 8000 or 9000i.
I notice Warn has to housing types. One has everything in a nicely shaped housing. The other has a separate box-like thing. What's the difference between the two?
Also, what kind of line and what kind of fairlead would ya recommend?
How many winches do you want to buy in the next 15 years or so?
I bought the 9.5 Ti not because I needed 9500 lbs capacity, but because it is so well sealed against moisture and so well constructed that it should last a lifetime. It was reliability that I was after.
I figured I might as well spend the bucks for a good one and then be done with it.
Sorry, Pal, but someone else will have to answer your technical questions. The 9.5 Ti is the only winch I have ever owned, so it's the only one I have experience with.
I went by what was being said in Jeep message boards and by what little understanding I had about the differences.
I'm sure an 8000 would be a good winch too, and it would probably last a long time also.
You could go to Warn's website and read about the different models.
I just liked the looks of the 9.5 Ti, it was the "latest and greatest" model at the time of my purchase, and it was getting rave reviews.
I did like that thermal indicator feature that warns you when to stop pulling before you burn up the motor. Not having any prior experience with winches, I just thought it sounded like a good feature to have. I mean, come on, shouldn't a Warn winch "warn" you????
I agree. I'd LOVE to have the latest and greatest, but the L&G habit gets really pricey, esp for stuff like that and electronics.
So in respect for my other half, I want to add it, but keep the expense such that it won't blow her away when I get a winch. Tough for me to justify the higher price winch right now. I guess I need to get edjamakated before I decide anything!
Anyone have advice on buying a replacement lens for for spare-tire carrier brake light? Local dealer tells me lens is not sold separately and insists I must buy an entire assembly for $163.00. Jeep is an '01 TJ. Thanks!
You can usually contact some of the 4x4 places online, like quadratec or jcwhitney, or 4wd.com. they may carry spare parts. You can also check out various 4x4 shops in your area. When people upgrade to larger tires, the 3rd brake light is usually pitched for a solution that will fit the larger tires on back. I saw a 3rd brake light assembly at my local shop this weekend. You can also try salvage yards.
You can find it, just think of where Jeep parts would be.
here is your brake light assembly, if you want to save a few bucks on shipping I'll be most sellers would take the lens out and throw away the rest if thats what you want.
there are several others, none have bids on them, you must be the only person wanting one, seems like anytime I want something, so does everyone else.
I've got a 3rd brake light and mount assembly in my basement waiting to go to the landfill. Email me your mailing address and I'll send the lens to you.
I told you somebody would have something they don't need any more!
twylie, you always seem to come through, just like Mac and Tom. I know we tell Mac this a lot, but let me tell you that I appreciate all you do to help this group from advice, to parts, to whatever. Your insight has helped me on countless times and I just wanted to express my gratitude for it.
I am planning on buying a new vehicle next year and doing lots of research in the mean time ('05 Wrangler Unlimited vs. '05 Nissan Frontier vs. '05 Tacoma). Can anyone tell me if a forward facing baby seat AND a booster seat will fit in the back seat of an Unlimited at the same time? I haven't test driven one yet, only wheeled in a friend's CJ-5 (AWESOME), and need to know for my two girls to ride with me on a daily basis - plus four wheeling.
Comments
Glen
Kevin
As far as the cooling performance of the system, it seems to be working great. The new rad does let everything run a little cooler than the old OEM one, but not so cool to make me think the thermostat's stuck open (which is a new one). I think it's either a broken "flapper" inside the blend valve or perhaps some trapped air still in the heater core or lines which no one has been able to burp out. I guess I'm looking for some "eureka" event from Mac or someone based on my synopsis. Sorry it's taking me so long! On the other hand, Tom asked me to report back, and this a great group of Jeepers, so....?
Any ideas? (I really prefer to resolve this on "my own" with your help!) I know the dealers' kids gotta eat too, but there's this whole concept of the Wrangler being a simple vehicle and all..... Thanks!
Thanks
If both heater hoses are getting hot then the heater core must be hot, therefore the problem is that air isn't being sent through the heater core. The most likely cause is that the blend door isn't functioning, but I guess there might be a dead possum in there. I think a blend door malfunction would head my list though.
Good luck!
If your radiator hoses and hoses going to the heater core aren't getting hot, you can either test or replace the tstat to see if the problem moves in the system. Here are the troubleshooting items I found for no or poor heater performance.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE . THERMOSTAT
FAILED IN OPEN POSITION
1 . Has a diagnostic trouble
code (DTC) number 17 been
set?
2. Coolant level low.
3. Obstructions in heater hose
fittings at engine .
4. Heater hose kinked.
5. Some models with certain
engines are equipped with a
water control valve located on
one of the heater hoses . This
valve maybe defective.
6. Water pump is not pumping
water to heater core. When
the engine is fully warmed up,
both heater hoses should be
hot to the touch. If only one of
the hoses is hot, the water
pump may not be operating
correctly. The accessory drive
belt may also be slipping
causing poor water pump
operation .
resolution:
1 . Refer to On-Board Diagnostics in the
manual text and replace thermostat if
necessary.
2. Refer to Testing Cooling System for
Leaks in the manual text. Repair as
necessary.
3. Remove heater hoses at both ends and
check for obstructions. Repair as
necessary.
4. Locate kinked area and repair as
necessary.
5. Refer to Group 24, Heating and Air
Conditioning for diagnosis . Repair as
necessary.
6. Refer to Water Pumps in this group.
Repair as necessary. If a slipping belt is
detected, refer to Engine Accessory Drive
Belts in this group. Repair as necessary.
Sorry to hear about your problems and I'm sure you'll track it down soon (through process of elimination if nothing else :-) )
-twylie
Blake
Yup, I hugged my Jeep today (it saved my [non-permissible content removed]!)
Marcus
New aftermarket bumper, hmmm...(slyly rubbing chin).
Marcus
You might also want to check out the tailgate more thoroughly. It's quite common for it to be badly damaged after the spare takes a hit, it just doesn't show until you take the wheel off.
Glad you are okay, but like mac said, get yourself checked to make sure all is good. Those neck injuries have a way of coming back to really hurt if you're not careful.
-Paul
You're right, I suppose it could be kinda caved in behind the spare...I'll have to pull it this weekend and take a look. I've already got an appointment to go to a claim center on Monday to get it evaluated. Even if my tailgate's toast, I still made out way better than that Cavalier did! ;-)
Marcus
When they got the weight off the front end to do the alignment, the guy grabbed the left front tire and shook it. There was a BIG TIME wobble, which means the hub bearing is shot. The bearing is integral to the hub assembly, so no such thing as just changing out a bearing: the whole unit must be replaced.
Guess how much that part lists for? I checked with the DC dealer that I do business with, and the parts guy said the list price was $305!!!! The Autozone price was $329. I always get a discount at the dealership, and the parts guy told me I could get the part for $225. I told him to go for it, but he has to get it in from a warehouse in St. Louis. Might have it as early as Tuesday.
I'm not going to whine about the part failure, after all the miles Thelma Jane has seen on the trails. She Jane is only four years old and has only been off roaded during the last three years. I go virtually every Saturday, so Thelma Jane has as many trail miles on her as most ten or fifteen year old Jeeps!
I stay out of mud and water whenever I can, but it cannot be totally avoided at Turkey Bay. I'm sure water and mud have a lot to do with that bearing failure.
It was so nice of that parts guy to discount the part that much for me. It's not like I buy thousands of dollars worth of parts or anything.
You see so many negative posts about car dealerships, but I have been well treated at two or three different places. It's just a matter of establishing a good relationship. If you go in with a chip on your shoulder, you are probably not going to be given the best of treatment.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep lately?
One of the reasons I called my '98 Sport my Noble Black Steed is that something along those lines happened when he was about 6 months old. My other half was calmly driving, minding our own business in the carpool lane. A compact pickup tried to change into our lane right in front of us - I'm sure he didn't look. The Jeep climbed the curve on the wall (I thought we would roll but we didn't - my other half did a great job of keeping the wheels straight) and we scraped both the wall as well as the pickup. We drove away while the other guy had to wait for a tow truck (of course, the other guy's insurance ended up having to pay over $4,000 repairs - all of it just body work). Wranglers are very tough vehicles.
Mac, or anyone else who has some knowledge on the subject, are they most likely getting as high quality as original equipment? Who is the supplier for the OEM hub?
I checked Autozone, remember, and they wanted $329.99. I will have to review those posts again to see where people are getting those low priced hubs.
Also, a Jeep Bud talked to a guy who deals in auto parts, and that guy said he could get my a hub for about $130. According to THAT guy, the hub for a 98 Grand Cherokee is the same part as for the 01 Wrangler. The price is MUCH lower for the Grand. Guess that happens a lot? Just gotta know which parts are interchangeable and ask for the cheaper one???
Does anyone know if Timken HA597449 (01 Wrangler) is exactly the same part as Timken 513084 (98 Grand).
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Are either of those as good as the OEM part? Does Timken or BCA supply DC with the OEM parts?
I R CORNFUSED!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Now I R REALLY CORNFUSED!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S. The above doesn't make sense without putting it with the previous posts, so let me explain.
Part numbers HA597449 and 513084 are both made by Timken and are both listed for the 2001 Wrangler front wheel bearing. So, Timken makes two part numbers for the same application and uses part numbers HA597449 and 513084.
Personally, I'd opt for the cheapest and check it more often than you have been doing. That will give you a benchmark to decide what to do when your other one goes (and trying to keep out of mud and water will help too!).
Feel free to expound more on that part number/price issue. You think the VERY SAME part can be had for about a third of the list price of OEM?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
On the bright side, the front bearings usually last a lifetime unless you contaminate them.
3.5 RE Suspension Lift
1 inch BL
Shrockworks Rocksliders
33x10.5x15 BFG ATs
That puppy sure looks GOOD! And, she looks like she is READY FOR TURKEY BAY!
So, when you gonna bring her down here????
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
:--)
jts
While it wasn't much of a test, GiGi handled the snow covered streets of my subdivision this afternoon. There's about an inch or 2 of snow here and it is SO beautiful! The road didn't seem icy at all, just a little snow covered, so there was good traction. She didn't even wiggle her tail at the spot that is often icy. It'll be interesting to see what conditions are like tomorrow morning, though.
I notice Warn has to housing types. One has everything in a nicely shaped housing. The other has a separate box-like thing. What's the difference between the two?
Also, what kind of line and what kind of fairlead would ya recommend?
-Paul
I have canceled my order at the Jeep dealer and ordered one at NAPA. I can get it for $139.95 instead of $225!!!
The NAPA part has a lifetime warranty, so how can I go wrong?
Thanks, Mac, for you input!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
How many winches do you want to buy in the next 15 years or so?
I bought the 9.5 Ti not because I needed 9500 lbs capacity, but because it is so well sealed against moisture and so well constructed that it should last a lifetime. It was reliability that I was after.
I figured I might as well spend the bucks for a good one and then be done with it.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I think the 9.5 has better water protection, but how 'bad' in comparison are the other models?
-Paul
I went by what was being said in Jeep message boards and by what little understanding I had about the differences.
I'm sure an 8000 would be a good winch too, and it would probably last a long time also.
You could go to Warn's website and read about the different models.
I just liked the looks of the 9.5 Ti, it was the "latest and greatest" model at the time of my purchase, and it was getting rave reviews.
I did like that thermal indicator feature that warns you when to stop pulling before you burn up the motor. Not having any prior experience with winches, I just thought it sounded like a good feature to have. I mean, come on, shouldn't a Warn winch "warn" you????
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
So in respect for my other half, I want to add it, but keep the expense such that it won't blow her away when I get a winch. Tough for me to justify the higher price winch right now. I guess I need to get edjamakated before I decide anything!
-Paul
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-Paul
You can find it, just think of where Jeep parts would be.
-Paul
I check it almost before I check retailers.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1- &item=7938758818&category=33716
here is your brake light assembly, if you want to save a few bucks on shipping I'll be most sellers would take the lens out and throw away the rest if thats what you want.
there are several others, none have bids on them, you must be the only person wanting one, seems like anytime I want something, so does everyone else.
jeff
Do covers protect them or do they trap moisture inside?
Jeff
If its ok to leave my winch outside unprotected, can can I leave my blender & toaster outside too, I'm running out of counter space?
I think the concern is more about submersion of the winch than exposure to weather.
Tom
Have yuo hugged your Jeep today?
-twylie
-twylie
Steve, Host
twylie, you always seem to come through, just like Mac and Tom. I know we tell Mac this a lot, but let me tell you that I appreciate all you do to help this group from advice, to parts, to whatever. Your insight has helped me on countless times and I just wanted to express my gratitude for it.
-Paul
Sorry, but I don't have the info you need, but I didn't want you to think we ignore people around here.
Someone will be around to help you before too long, I guess. Maybe none of us know the answer, so you might just have to "test drive" to find out.
You'd better be prepared to have FUN like you have never had with any other vehicle, if you get a Wrangler!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?