It would be better if you contacted Jeep, then you would get the info in an email.
Just go to Jeep.com and do a search on "customer service." Find the link that says "Contact Jeep."
A form will pop up, and in the blank field near the top, just tell them that you want a "factory build sheet."
There is a field that needs to be filled out
where you type the last eight characters of the VIN.
Type in your email addy in the place they provide, and they will email you the factory build sheet. During regular business hours, I have heard of replies in as quick as 30 minutes.
It seems that my no-heat problem must have been trapped air in the heater line, somewhere. I checked Mac's suggestions and others, but had some suspicions about the line. I knew it was clear from my flushing activities, but it's not a simple matter to dislodge stubborn air pockets (I'm sure there's a neat trick beyond running your heater on high heat). Anyway, the heat is on and I must have the cleanest cooling lines in Oklahoma now! The hoses are also clean on the outside from compressing them trying to "burp" out extra air. Anyway, thanks for the tips!
Hmmm..... there is one other possible connection. I just replaced the factory stereo and speakers with a system from crutchfield.com. Maybe the Jeep's just happier now, and no longer withholding heat!
glad to hear you got your heat back without having to pull and replace the heater core. I know heat woudl be mandatory at my house today. Down to 24 last night. May not be cold for some places, but darn cold for GA.
Hey Every body, I am new to this but have been reading for a while. I have an 1997 wrangler with a 4 cyl. and an AX5 five speed. I am wondering if any of you know what happens if you remove the plug on the side of the transmission that says "do not remove"? And if there are any common reasons that transmission may leak its gear lube? This is my first post but I have enjoyed reading what you all have to say for a while now. Thanks for any info you may have.
If you remove ANY tags or plugs that say DO not remove, the DO NOT REMOVE police will hunt you down!
Seriously, I think that is a fill cap?
I have the same 97 TJ 4cyl with the AX-5. Where is your transmission leaking from - the transfer case in the middle or one of the differentials on the axles? My front is leaking a bit where the driveshaft comes into the diff, but not enough for me to tear it apart and fix it yet.
My 00 Grand had similar leaks as my TJ, but they were fixed under warranty. My transfer case has never leaked.
I wondered who those guys were that have been watching me since I removed that plug. I guess that must be like cutting the tag off a mattress.
The oil is all over the bottom of the skid plate under the transmission. I smelled it and could definitely tell it is Gear lube and not the ATF that is in the transfer case. The whole transmission is dry except around the bolts that bolt the lower rubber mount to the transmission. The drain plug is dry. The differentials are all dry with exception of the rear pinion seal but I thought that could just be from this oil blowing back on it while driving. I was thinking maybe the seal at the back of the transmission that cant be seen due to the transfer case being bolted up, may be leaking. I thought you guys may have had this problem before perhaps.
How do you like your TJ? This is my first and I love it.
I wish it had the 6 cyl when I was on the highway, but other than that, I love it. I've upgraded a few things on it, like the top and interior. Only modified the sway bar disconnects (I installed those and a sway bar - which it didn't have when I bought it!).
Still want to do a few things to it, but it will have to wait for a while.
Mine is a '98 4cyl manual as well. Most of us tend to agree with Paul in that regard. Buying used can limit your options, as it did mine. Still, I love it 95% of time (less so on uphill grades on highways). Or into stiff winds, which are more common here in OK than uphill grades! I've driven mine from OK back to Indiana on I-44 through the Ozarks, though - - and still love it. Standard soft top and half doors.
My mods are limited: BFG All Terrain T/A's (31 x 10.50) - no extra lift; Hella driving lights; nerf bars; the new stereo system. I don't think we count the replacement catalytic converter, radiator, or windshield. Even with just the four, driveability has never been an issue going to the larger tires. Any perspectives from others regarding this?
I am surprised how many of you have the same basic jeep I have. I also bought mine used and opted for the 4cyl. because of the price and future plans. I can see your point about stiff winds and highway use. I have learned to draft trucks to go over 60mph and in Florida we dont have many grades so that is not a problem. I have done some mods that have made it perform a bit better. First I installed a safari snorkel. That made a huge performance increase I think due to cold air induction and perhaps some ram air. Then I installed a throttle body spacer. Didn't notice much increase from that. Then I removed the mechanical engine fan and made and installed an electric fan to remove power draw from the engine. That also increased the performance pretty well. At that point wind was not an issue so long as the top was up and I could hit 80mph. Then I installed a procomp 4 inch lift and some BFG 33" MTs. Now I am back to drafting trucks. But it is alot more fun in the dirt and it looks cool. I had to change the axle gears to 4.56 and that helped alot but still not what it was. I think someday I will put in a Diesel or a 5.3 Chevy. If someday comes! For now the 4 cyl is doing fine.
you have more weight spinning around your axles, not to mention the added stresses on your brakes. The additional weight may be part of the problem.
I've just decided that if I'm going to go with bigger tires, I can forget highway driving and tow it with our Grand.
Here's what I've done with my green/tan TJ:
New Bestop Sailcloth softtop (black)
New black carpet
Black Tuffy Security Console
Alpine head unit
Kicker amp powering 6x9's in soundbar and MBQuarts in dash
Alpine amp powering JLAudio sub in sec console
30" BFG AT's
IPF h4 Headlight upgrade and IPF 968 driving/fog lamps
ToysbyTroy rock rails and steering skid
tow hooks front and rear (just for TOM! )
Removed plastic end caps
JKS Quicker disconnects
Homebrew quick disconnects for softtop hardware (allows me to take all softtop hardware off during the summer)
Cobra CB with arizonarockyroad antenna mount and firestik ii antenna
And I haven't EVEN gotten to the lift yet!
It is easy to see that these things are easy to modify. I still debate about what I want my final tire size to be. If I go with an OME lift, which will give me about 2.5-3", then what would be an ideal tire size for Canyon wheels - 33 x 10.5?
I am still working on making a deal on an 03 rubicon with the dual top group. The previous owner left the hard top on and never removed the soft top from the jeep. I was reading through the manual and noticed a warning that leaving both tops could void the warranty on the soft top. Can anyone explain what the problem is with leaving the soft top fully collapsed for an extended period of time?
Vibration can rub holes in it. Easiest way to see if there's a problem is to remove the hard top and erect the soft top. Shouldn't be a problem if the seller is serious about making a deal.
Thanks Mac! Is there anything else I should look for? Sounds like all i need to do is extend the soft top enough to make sure there are no holes or wear spots.
I have a '97 Wrangler 4cyl. 5-speed, 100,000 miles. Lately, I have been hearing a high pitch whistle noise coming from the engine. It starts after the engine has warmed up and fluctuates as I press or come off of the accelerator. It seems to have no effect on the engine performance. I took it to the Jeep dealer and they could not pinpoint the source of the sound. They said it might be that one of the fly wheels is coming loose. I was not very happy they could not figure it out. They were looking at the defroster which was stuck in the closed position (flap).They said it would cost $900.00 to fix the lever that was broken behind the dash. I decided against it and was wondering if I could drill holes on top of the dash down the two center vents, close off the vents and force the hot air up to the windshield.
Any thoughts on these two problems would be appreciated.
Make sure the seller still has the soft side windows. They would have been shipped in a cardboard box. Also, when erecting the top, be sure to locate the rear window bar that attaches to the tub. Good luck.
Are you sure it was a Jeep dealer and not a dope dealer?
You only have one flywheel, and if it's about to come off it won't be whistling to you first. Grinding, graunching, screeching are the descriptors that come to mind!
The whistling you described is often indicative of a vacuum leak. The flap or door that diverts the air in the heater housing to the various vents is controlled by a vacuum actuator. You might just have got lucky and find that your two problems are related.
Does the 97 Wrangler use a vacuum controller for diverting the vents or is it cable operated? I know my cousin's '97 sport has different controls (slide levers vs dials). I assumed they were fully manual, but leave it up to DC to use cables and a vaccuum assembly. Worst of both evils IMO :-)
-twylie
Edit: Agree with Mac that you need to find a new dealer; this one sounds pretty poor.
I know it is hard to believe but it was actually a very large dealership in NJ. To reiterate, the whistle noise in the engine area depends on whether or not I hit the accelerator. It does not matter if the Jeep is moving or not. If it is the vacuum actuator is it a big and expensive job?
I don't know the price of a vacuum actuator offhand, but it shouldn't take more than ten minutes to change. On the other hand, it could just be a split or dislocated vacuum pipe.
All of the other heat/AC controls work except the defroster. Would changing the vacuum pump solve the problem of the "flap" being stuck in the closed position and eliminate the noise? They said the lever was broken and would have to take the whole dash out to fix it. Aprox. cost $900.00.
There is no vacuum pump. The engine generates a vacuum in the inlet manifold, which is tapped to provide a vacuum supply for the various systems.
The noise isn't caused by the flap being stuck, it's probably caused by a leak in the vacuum system.
If the lever is broken it may be possible to just secure it in the correct position with a zip tie. They are correct in saying that to remove and replace the heater housing the dash components in front of it have to be removed first. However, you can access and work on the external components from the footwells.
I meant to write vacuum actuator. Is replacing the the vacuum system possible or neccesary? If I can live with the noise is it ok to leave it as is? What did you think about my idea of drilling holes on top of the dash over the two center vents, closing the vent flaps which would force air up to the windshield? Keep in mind this not my primary mode of transportation.
Running with a vacuum leak is not a good idea for various reasons, especially as it's so easy to fix.
I really don't see how drilling holes in the top of the dash will help. The defroster flap is a long way down from the top of the dash. You may be able to poke a long stiff wire (coathanger?) down there to hold the flap open. Wouldn't be my choice though. I'd rather attack the problem at the level of the heater housing.
Are you telling me if I fix the vacuum leak it should eliminate the noise and release the "flap" that is closed over the defroster. That is if none of the controls are broken.
As to the drilling of holes in the dash; there is indentation above the two center vents. My intention was to drill holes down to the vent channels, not to the defroster flap. Air coming up through the vents would be forced up through the holes to the windshield when the two vents are closed. This would be a last resort.
Let's take it back to basics. Unless I have the vehicle in front of me, I can't make more than an inspired guess as to what any particular noise might be. It might just be the serpentine belt squealing, though I doubt it.
What I'm telling you is that if the noise is a vacuum leak, then sealing it will stop the noise. If the vacuum actuator for the defroster flap is the cause of the leak, then replacing it will solve both of your problems. If the vacuum line to your defroster actuator is leaking, and the actuator is fine, then repairing or replacing the line will solve both your problems.
However, if the connection between the actuator and the flap is broken, then fixing a vacuum leak will only stop the noise (if that's what it is). It may be possible though, to lock the flap in the appropriate position with a zip tie or a screw.
I now understand what you mean about drilling holes in the dash, and like you, it would be my last resort.
Well, Jeep Buds, I am FINALLY going to get to go wheelin'! Yeeeeeeeeeehawwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!
Turkey Bay was closed the last two weekends due to saturated soil conditions. I was out of commission anyway two weekends ago with that bad wheel bearing.
It is KILLING me to go this long without some dirt under Thelma Jane's tires!
Mac is likely on the right track, based on my recent limited experience with my '98 heater issue. As an option, you might suggest the possibility of a vacuum leak to your dealer (or a new dealer as was also suggested). If you're moderately handy, you might consider the Factory Service Manuals as a great reference - especially since you note this is not your primary transportation. If you get into a lengthy repair, you wouldn't be forced to rush the job in order to get back on the road.
As I noted, after some trials and tribulations, my heat functions again. I finally attributed it to have air trapped in my heater lines which ultimately worked its way out. Interestingly, the FSM mentions that air in the system is expelled by going through several heat-up/cool-down cycles. It's important to continue to add coolant to the overflow bottle as needed, since failure to do so can result in more air being sucked into the system. That pretty much describes my actions. I can't help but wonder is there's a more direct way to free this trapped air, though? Everytime you flush and refill your cooling system, this would be an issue.
Glad to hear you finally fixed it. However, it's rare for an airlock to be the problem in a Wrangler.
It's generally the case that if, shortly after starting, both heater hoses are hot then the problem lies in the mechanics of the heater housing. If only one hose is hot then the problem is in the heater core, or the return hose is blocked or has collaped. If neither hose is hot then the outlet to the flow hose is blocked, or the hose itself is blocked or collapsed.
I've flushed and refilled many Jeeps and haven't yet had an airlock.
Its getting about time to replace the oem tires on my Jeep, so I've been looking at pricing.
I spend most of my time on the road, so quiet is good, but having said that, I don't want to end of with highway tires that would be useless in the snow & mud.
Does anyone know anything about the Goodyears Wrangler AT/D sold at Sams? The BF Goodrich is arguably the best looking of all, and of course Michelin is likely the best in quality.
I have owned the factory GSA's, BFG All Terrains, and BFG Muds.
I ran the All Terrains for only 6K miles, because I decided that really should have gone with the Muds to start with. I traded-in the AT's for the Muds.
Those AT's were really nice handling tires and were fair on the trails, but they were just not real good in mud. The tread wear was almost non-existent in those 6000 miles. They would be my tire of choice, if I weren't so much into off roading.
I also had the 31 x 10.50 size that you are talking about.
Be sure to use around 28 psi to get the best ride, handling, and tread wear, if you go with either the BFG All Terrains or the BFG Muds.
Comments
-Paul
Here's the rest:
236396 OCT 96 EZ Entry Seat Back Release Cable - Detached
082196A OCT 96 Wiring Harness - Connector Repair Package
050996 OCT 96 Brakes - Noise Explanation
26-10-96D OCT 96 Engine/Steering - Oil Capacity/Pressure Switch Revisions
261096 OCT 96 Service Manual - Revisions/Updates
182696 SEP 96 PCM - Erroneous MIL, and/or Driveability Concerns
235796 SEP 96 Carpet -Poor Fit/Slides
241396 SEP 96 Heater A/C - No Air From Panel Vents
689 SEP 96 Warranty - Emissions Component Update
190396 JUN 96 Power Steering Reservoir - Fluid Seepage
26-06-96A JUN 96 A/C - Vacuum Schematics Revisions
260696 JUN 96 Service Manual - Revision
241096 MAY 96 Heater/AC Housing - Water Leaks To The Interior
240896 MAY 96 AC Compressor - Growling Noise
140396 MAY 96 Fuel Filler Bezel Screws - Rust Prematurely
26-03-96C MAR 96 Steering/Suspension - Alignment Specifications Revisions
'96, '97, and '98 information could all be applicable, later information may or may not be.
Just go to Jeep.com and do a search on "customer service." Find the link that says "Contact Jeep."
A form will pop up, and in the blank field near the top, just tell them that you want a "factory build sheet."
There is a field that needs to be filled out
where you type the last eight characters of the VIN.
Type in your email addy in the place they provide, and they will email you the factory build sheet. During regular business hours, I have heard of replies in as quick as 30 minutes.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Bulletins for 1997 Ford Truck F 150 4WD Pickup V8-330 5.4L SOHC VIN L EFI
Safety Recalls
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 01B77 OCT 01 Recall - Firestone Tire Recall Supplement
00S22 OCT 00 Recall - Fuel Line Inspection
00S14 JUL 00 Recall - Daytime Running Lamp Non-Compliance
98S18 AUG 98 Recall - Rear Spring Clip installation
98S14 JUN 98 Recall - Wheel Lug Nuts Loose
97S81 OCT 97 Recall - A/T Shift Cable Defect
97S86 OCT 97 Recall - A/T Shift Cable Retention
96S49 DEC 96 Recall - Rear Tire Inflation Pressure Label Update
96S62 DEC 96 Recall - Seat Belt Anchor Bolt Inspection
96S53 SEP 96 Recall - Brake Pedal Pushrod Retainer Inspection
General Recalls
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 98B33 APR 99 Campaign - Coolant/Cylinder Head Replacement
96B05 NOV 96 Campaign - Spare Tire/Wheel Assembly Replacement
Service Bulletins
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 04-5-7 MAR 04 Body - Front Window(s) Pop/Thump Noise at End of Travel
03-26-1 JAN 04 A/T - 4R70W Needle Bearing/Race Kit Service Tip
03-23-2 NOV 03 Body - Exterior Mirror Glass/Motor Service Tips
03-20-3 OCT 03 Emissions - MIL ON/DTC's Stored/Check Fuel Cap Lamp ON
03-18-1 SEP 03 Keyless Entry System - Service Tips
03-15-13 AUG 03 Steering - Tie Rod End Inspection Procedures
03-14-8 JUL 03 A/T - Cooler Flushing Service Tips
03-14-4 JUL 03 Ignition System - Engine Misfire Diagnostic Tips
03-11-6 JUN 03 Electrical - Wiring Soldering/Crimping Tips
03-2-4 FEB 03 Body - Driver Side Window Binds When Operated
02-22-1 NOV 02 Engine Controls - Engine Surge/Rolling Idle/DTC's Set
02-21-1 OCT 02 A/T - Torque Converter Access Plug Dislodges
02-21-4 OCT 02 Body - Roof Ditch Material Cracking
02-21-13 OCT 02 Engine - Cylinder Head Straightedge Surface Check
02-20-8 OCT 02 A/C System - Diagnosis and Service Tips
02-17-6 SEP 02 A/T - Inadvertent Shift Interlock Disabling
02-16-4 AUG 02 Audio System - Whining/Buzzing Noise From Speakers
02-11-4 JUN 02 Aluminum Engine - New Cleaners/Service Tips
02-3-5 FEB 02 Tailgate - Squeaking/Binding Condition
02-2-3 FEB 02 Engine - Aluminum Block/Head Machining
02-1-4 JAN 02 Engine Head Gasket - Approved Replacement Procedures
02-1-9 JAN 02 Engine Oil - Oil Recommendations/Applications
02-1-6 JAN 02 Wheels/Tires - Road Force Measurement Equipment
01-24-6 DEC 01 Engine - Oil System Priming Procedures
01-23-6 NOV 01 Engine Coolant - Propylene Glycol Recommendations
01-21-5 OCT 01 Engine - High Idle/Sticking Throttle
01-21-6 OCT 01 Hood Lamp Switch - Revised
01-21-8 OCT 01 Starting System - No Crank/No Start Condition
01-20-5 OCT 01 Driveability - Vacuum Leak Detection
01-19-2 OCT 01 Rear Brakes - Grabbing On First Few Applications
01-18-2 SEP 01 Outer Door Panel - Cracking
01-16-6 AUG 01 Transfer Case - Multiple Electrical Malfunctions
01-15-7 AUG 01 A/T - Fluid Application Charts
01-15-6 AUG 01 Heater Core - Repeated Failure
01-10-11 MAY 01 Bi Fuel System - Component Identification
01-10-6 MAY 01 Bi-Fuel System - Compuvalve Replacement
01-10-12 MAY 01 Wire Harness - Terminal Repair Kit
01-9-8 MAY 01 Door/Tailgate - Corrosion
01-9-7 MAY 01 Emissions/Engine Controls - Driveability Diagnosis
01-7-3 APR 01 Fuel Pump - Whine Heard Through Radio Speakers
01-1-11 JAN 01 Sliding Rear Window - Water Leaks to Interior
00-26-1 DEC 00 Engine - Rough Idle/Noise When Cold
00-23-10 NOV 00 A/T - In Line
.........continued in next post.
00-23-8 NOV 00 Starter Solenoid - No Crank/No Start Condition
00-9-1 MAY 00 A/T Cooler - Fluid Leaks at Radiator
00-9-5 MAY 00 Inner Fender Well - Rear Fender Well Dented/Dinged
00-1-7 JAN 00 MIL ON/Trouble Codes Stored/Driveability Symptoms
99-26-9 DEC 99 Fuel Economy - Customer Expectation vs. Vehicle Usage
99-25-6 DEC 99 Brake Rotor - Incorrect Discard Thickness Specification
99-25-2 DEC 99 Engine - High Idle Speed/Throttle Sticking
99-24-2 NOV 99 Locks - Lock Service Packages Available
99-23-4 NOV 99 EVAP - DTC's P0442/P0455/MIL ON/No Driveability Concerns
99-22-2 NOV 99 Wire Harness - Terminal Repair Kit/Wire Splice Procedure
99-19-6 SEP 99 A/C - Identification of Non Approved Refrigerants
99-19-4 SEP 99 Brakes - Vibration/Inspection Service Tips
99-18-5 SEP 99 A/T - 4R70W TCIL ON/Code P0782/Delayed/No 2-3 Upshift
99-16-4 AUG 99 Ignition Key - Hard To Remove From Ignition Cylinder
99-14-3 JUL 99 Front Differential - Moaning Noise In 2WD Mode
99-12-8 JUN 99 A/C - Whistling Noise When Driving With A/C OFF
99-11-1 JUN 99 Comprehensive Noise/Vibration/Harshness Procedure
99-12-10 JUN 99 Paint - Rough Texture
99-9-6 MAY 99 A/T - 4R70W (Remanufactured) Delayed or No 2-3 Upshift
99-8-15 MAY 99 Interior Door Trim Panel - Replacement Tip
99-8-16 MAY 99 Motor Oil - Viscosity Grade Recommendation
99-6-5 APR 99 Side Doors - Wind Noises
99-5-3 MAR 99 A/T - Cold Fluid Level Checking
99-5-4 MAR 99 Frame - Service Kit Availability
99-4-3 MAR 99 PCM - Reprogramming Out of Vehicle
99-3-2 FEB 99 M/T - M5OD Vehicle Will Not Go Into Reverse
99-2-3 FEB 99 Windshield - Water Leaks
98-26-2 JAN 99 Fuel - Volatility Related Driveability Concerns
98-26-6 JAN 99 Roof - Depressions/Sinks Rearward Of Front Doors
98-25-9 DEC 98 Interior Trim - Vinyl Surface Repair Tips
98-24-6 DEC 98 Electrical - New Terminal Grease Released For Service
98-23-12 NOV 98 A/T - Multiple DTC's Stored Diagnosis
98-23-25 NOV 98 EVAP Line - MIL Illuminated/Trouble Code P0455
98-23-10 NOV 98 Engine - Lean Driveability Symptoms
98-23-1 NOV 98 GEM Module - Water Intrusion
98-21-21 OCT 98 Engine - Fast Idle Speed/MIL ON/DTC P1506 Set
98-21-17 OCT 98 Parking Brake Control - Rubber Bumper Stop Available
98-20-10 OCT 98 Exhaust System - Buzzing/Rattling Noise
98-18-2 SEP 98 Paint - Materials For After Warranty/Warranty Repairs
98-17-1 SEP 98 Seat Leather - Cleaning Procedure Tips
98-16-8 AUG 98 A/T - Main Controls/Separator Plate/Gaskets Usage
98-16-9 AUG 98 Alignment - Toe Setting Procedure Tip
98-16-17 AUG 98 Floor Mat - Installation Procedure Service Tip
98-16-12 AUG 98 Fuel Rail - Fuel Leaks At Spring Lock Coupler
98-16-10 AUG 98 Seat Back Recliner - Inoperative
98-16-18 AUG 98 Vinyl Floor Mat - Installation Tip
98-15-17 AUG 98 Child Safety Seat - Revised Tether Kit
98-15-12 AUG 98 Evaporative Emission Canister - Components Availabilit
98-14-5 JUL 98 Steering Column - Clunking Felt Rocking Steering Wheel
98-12-5 JUN 98 A/C - Filtering Refrigerant After Compressor Replacement
98-11-7 JUN 98 Rear Axle - Chattering On Turns Or Cornering
98-10-15 MAY 98 Transfer Case Shift Lever - Buzzing Noise
98-9-20 MAY 98 A/T - E4OD 4-1 Downshift During Forced 4-2 Downshift
98-9-15 MAY 98 ABS - Lamp ON/DTC B1342 Stored
98-9-13 MAY 98 Body/Frame - Water Leaks Causing Electrical Problems
98-9-9 MAY 98 Fuel Injectors - Non Warranty Reimbursement Testing
98-7-4 APR 98 Engine - New Gasket Sealer
98-6-13 MAR 98 A/C - Cold Air Felt On Passenger Floor In Heat Mode
98-6-11 MAR 98 Engine - Stall/Hesitates/Surge/MIL ON/Codes Stored
98-5A-51 MAR 98 Brakes - 4WAL Repeat Repairs/Technical Assistance
98-5A-11 MAR 98 Brakes - Elimination Of Sanding Rotors And Drums
98-5A-5 MAR 98 Hub-Mount Brake Rotor Machining Equipment
98-5A-4 MAR 98 Lug Nuts - Proper Installation/Torqueing Procedure
98-5A-12 MAR 98 Vehicle - Towing Behind RVs Guidelines
98-5-8 MAR 98 MIL ON/DTC P0503/Erratic Speedometer/Shifting
98-4-19 MAR 98 A/T - E4OD TCIL Flashing/DTC's 62/628/1728 Stored
98-5-2 MAR 98 Tires - Company Customer Assistance Telephone Numbers
98-3-3 FEB 98 Paint - Surface Defect Removal Without Repainting
98-2-7 FEB 98 Air Conditioning - Musty/Mildew Type Odors
98-1-13 JAN 98 Bumper - Rust Staining
97-26-19 DEC 97 PCM - MIL ON/Multiple DTC's Set/Driveability Concerns
97-26-13 DEC 97 Right Rear Wheel Cover - Discolored/Pitted
97-25-5 DEC 97 Blower Motor - Chirping/Squeaking
97-25-8 DEC 97 Engine - Rough Running/MIL ON/DTC'S Set
97-24-23 NOV 97 Engine - Stall During Transmission Engagement
97-24-13 NOV 97 Remote Keyless Entry - Diagnostic Service Tips
97-23-13 NOV 97 A/T - E4OD New Case And Extension Housing
97-22-17 OCT 97 Clutch - Hard to Depress/Premature Slave Cylinder Wear
97-22-1 OCT 97 EGR DPFE Sensor - Voltage Range Revision
97-22-7 OCT 97 Wheel Hub - O Ring Service Tip
97-20-15 SEP 97 Universal Joint - Greasable Design Availability
97-19-19 SEP 97 A/C - No Airflow From Floor Vents
97-19-20 SEP 97 A/T - E4OD Main Regulator Booster Service Tip
97-19-11 SEP 97 Heater Core - On Car Pressure Test For Warranty Claim
97-17-25 AUG 97 A/T - E4OD New Design Reverse Clutch Assembly
97-17-2 AUG 97 Rear View Mirror - Reattachment
97-17-1 AUG 97 Sheet Molding Composite - Body Repair
97-17-23 AUG 97 Transfer Case Shift Lever - Buzzing/Growling Noise
97-16-11 AUG 97 A/C - Condensate Dripping Onto Passenger Floor
97-15-21 JUL 97 Engine - Stalls When Transmission is Engaged
97-15-24 JUL 97 Exhaust System - Vibration Or Boom
97-13-23 JUN 97 A/T - E4OD Slip/Bump on 1st to 2nd Gear Upshifts
97-13-21 JUN 97 Driveline - Clunking or Grunting Noise
97-13-22 JUN 97 Driveline - Vibration/Noise at Highway Speeds
97-13-18 JUN 97 Radio - Whining Noise on AM Band With A/C ON
97-12-13 JUN 97 A/T - Low Transmission Fluid/Shift/Engagement Concerns
97-11-11 MAY 97 A/T - AODE/4R70W Erratic/Prolonged 1-2 Shift
97-11-21 MAY 97 A/T - E4OD First Gear Ticking Noise
97-11-5 MAY 97 Remote Antitheft Personality Transmitter - Reprogramming
97-15-5 MAY 97 A/C - Refrigerant Oil Refill Capacity
97-10-5 MAY 97 A/C - Insufficient Cooling/ Compressor Failure
97-10-10 MAY 97 Front Axle Tube Vent - Lubricant Leak
97-9-17 APR 97 Climate Control - Loss of Temperature Control
97-9-8 APR 97 PCM - Reprogramming Tips
9786 APR 97 PCM - MIL ON/DTCs From P0300 to P0308 Set
97410 FEB 97 A/T - E4OD Cooler Bypass Valve Service Tip
9747 FEB 97 Frame - Rivet Replacement with Bolts Service Tip
9735 FEB 97 A/C - R134a Tracer Dye and Three O Ring Spring Couplers
97310 FEB 97 Frame - Popping or Creaking Noise
962618 DEC 96 New Locking Fuel Caps - Available
962612 DEC 96 Torque Converter - Cleaning and Replacement Guidelines
962518 DEC 96 Power Point Access Door - Breaks
962523 DEC 96 Spark Plug Wires - MIL ON/DTCs P0300 Through P0308 Set
962521 DEC 96 Steering Column - Clunk Noise
962525 DEC 96 Vehicle Rattle and Squeak - Summary of Concerns
962418 NOV 96 A/T - E4OD Forward Thrust Washer Revision
96249 NOV 96 A/T Torque Converter - Leak Test Procedure
96246 NOV 96 Electrical Diode - Identification and Replacement
962410 NOV 96 New Digital Transmission Range Sensor - Service Tip
96225 OCT 96 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Assembly Replacement
962210 OCT 96 Windshield Washer Hose - Trapped By Hood
96221 OCT 96 Windshield/Interior Glass - Fog/Film
962114 OCT 96 A/T - 4R70W Extension Housing Leaks
962115 OCT 96 A/T - E4OD New Design Overdrive Clutch Piston
962117 OCT 96 A/T - E4OD Unique Parts Application
96217 OCT 96 Front Door Weatherstrip - Loose or Detached
962113 OCT 96 Front Drive Axle - Clicking and Grinding Noise
96208 SEP 96 A/C - New O Ring Applications
96207 SEP 96 A/C O Ring - Availability and Applications
962012 SEP 96 Door Lock Rod Mechanism - New Service Part
96201 SEP 96 Paint - Codes and Colors/Cross Reference
961716 AUG 96 Front Bumper - Cracks/Rusting
961718 AUG 96 Interior Lamps - Inoperative/Intermittent Operation
96166 JUL 96 Instrument Cluster - Recalibration Service Tips
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Hmmm..... there is one other possible connection. I just replaced the factory stereo and speakers with a system from crutchfield.com. Maybe the Jeep's just happier now, and no longer withholding heat!
-twylie
Seriously, I think that is a fill cap?
I have the same 97 TJ 4cyl with the AX-5. Where is your transmission leaking from - the transfer case in the middle or one of the differentials on the axles? My front is leaking a bit where the driveshaft comes into the diff, but not enough for me to tear it apart and fix it yet.
My 00 Grand had similar leaks as my TJ, but they were fixed under warranty. My transfer case has never leaked.
-Paul
The oil is all over the bottom of the skid plate under the transmission. I smelled it and could definitely tell it is Gear lube and not the ATF that is in the transfer case. The whole transmission is dry except around the bolts that bolt the lower rubber mount to the transmission. The drain plug is dry. The differentials are all dry with exception of the rear pinion seal but I thought that could just be from this oil blowing back on it while driving. I was thinking maybe the seal at the back of the transmission that cant be seen due to the transfer case being bolted up, may be leaking. I thought you guys may have had this problem before perhaps.
How do you like your TJ? This is my first and I love it.
There no plugs on a Wrangler that have to be removed for regular maintenance marked "Do Not Remove". Kind of obvious really.
:~)
Still want to do a few things to it, but it will have to wait for a while.
-Paul
supposed to get down to 14 tonight in CT
Just waiting for that first BIG snow to come.
Then I can drop her in 4h and have a little fun on some back roads
-Dan
Mine is a '98 4cyl manual as well. Most of us tend to agree with Paul in that regard. Buying used can limit your options, as it did mine. Still, I love it 95% of time (less so on uphill grades on highways). Or into stiff winds, which are more common here in OK than uphill grades! I've driven mine from OK back to Indiana on I-44 through the Ozarks, though - - and still love it. Standard soft top and half doors.
My mods are limited: BFG All Terrain T/A's (31 x 10.50) - no extra lift; Hella driving lights; nerf bars; the new stereo system. I don't think we count the replacement catalytic converter, radiator, or windshield. Even with just the four, driveability has never been an issue going to the larger tires. Any perspectives from others regarding this?
Gary
No problem, just change the final gearing as necessary.
I've just decided that if I'm going to go with bigger tires, I can forget highway driving and tow it with our Grand.
Here's what I've done with my green/tan TJ:
New Bestop Sailcloth softtop (black)
New black carpet
Black Tuffy Security Console
Alpine head unit
Kicker amp powering 6x9's in soundbar and MBQuarts in dash
Alpine amp powering JLAudio sub in sec console
30" BFG AT's
IPF h4 Headlight upgrade and IPF 968 driving/fog lamps
ToysbyTroy rock rails and steering skid
tow hooks front and rear (just for TOM!
Removed plastic end caps
JKS Quicker disconnects
Homebrew quick disconnects for softtop hardware (allows me to take all softtop hardware off during the summer)
Cobra CB with arizonarockyroad antenna mount and firestik ii antenna
And I haven't EVEN gotten to the lift yet!
It is easy to see that these things are easy to modify. I still debate about what I want my final tire size to be. If I go with an OME lift, which will give me about 2.5-3", then what would be an ideal tire size for Canyon wheels - 33 x 10.5?
-Paul
-Paul
I am still working on making a deal on an 03 rubicon with the dual top group. The previous owner left the hard top on and never removed the soft top from the jeep. I was reading through the manual and noticed a warning that leaving both tops could void the warranty on the soft top. Can anyone explain what the problem is with leaving the soft top fully collapsed for an extended period of time?
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks again
Any thoughts on these two problems would be appreciated.
Thank you
-twylie
You only have one flywheel, and if it's about to come off it won't be whistling to you first. Grinding, graunching, screeching are the descriptors that come to mind!
The whistling you described is often indicative of a vacuum leak. The flap or door that diverts the air in the heater housing to the various vents is controlled by a vacuum actuator. You might just have got lucky and find that your two problems are related.
-twylie
Edit: Agree with Mac that you need to find a new dealer; this one sounds pretty poor.
Thanks
I don't know the price of a vacuum actuator offhand, but it shouldn't take more than ten minutes to change. On the other hand, it could just be a split or dislocated vacuum pipe.
Thanks
The noise isn't caused by the flap being stuck, it's probably caused by a leak in the vacuum system.
If the lever is broken it may be possible to just secure it in the correct position with a zip tie. They are correct in saying that to remove and replace the heater housing the dash components in front of it have to be removed first. However, you can access and work on the external components from the footwells.
Thanks
I really don't see how drilling holes in the top of the dash will help. The defroster flap is a long way down from the top of the dash. You may be able to poke a long stiff wire (coathanger?) down there to hold the flap open. Wouldn't be my choice though. I'd rather attack the problem at the level of the heater housing.
As to the drilling of holes in the dash; there is indentation above the two center vents. My intention was to drill holes down to the vent channels, not to the defroster flap. Air coming up through the vents would be forced up through the holes to the windshield when the two vents are closed. This would be a last resort.
Thanks
What I'm telling you is that if the noise is a vacuum leak, then sealing it will stop the noise. If the vacuum actuator for the defroster flap is the cause of the leak, then replacing it will solve both of your problems. If the vacuum line to your defroster actuator is leaking, and the actuator is fine, then repairing or replacing the line will solve both your problems.
However, if the connection between the actuator and the flap is broken, then fixing a vacuum leak will only stop the noise (if that's what it is). It may be possible though, to lock the flap in the appropriate position with a zip tie or a screw.
I now understand what you mean about drilling holes in the dash, and like you, it would be my last resort.
Turkey Bay was closed the last two weekends due to saturated soil conditions. I was out of commission anyway two weekends ago with that bad wheel bearing.
It is KILLING me to go this long without some dirt under Thelma Jane's tires!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
It's generally the case that if, shortly after starting, both heater hoses are hot then the problem lies in the mechanics of the heater housing. If only one hose is hot then the problem is in the heater core, or the return hose is blocked or has collaped. If neither hose is hot then the outlet to the flow hose is blocked, or the hose itself is blocked or collapsed.
I've flushed and refilled many Jeeps and haven't yet had an airlock.
I spend most of my time on the road, so quiet is good, but having said that, I don't want to end of with highway tires that would be useless in the snow & mud.
Does anyone know anything about the Goodyears Wrangler AT/D sold at Sams? The BF Goodrich is arguably the best looking of all, and of course Michelin is likely the best in quality.
I'm going to bump up to 31x10.5 in size.
Any suggestions?
I ran the All Terrains for only 6K miles, because I decided that really should have gone with the Muds to start with. I traded-in the AT's for the Muds.
Those AT's were really nice handling tires and were fair on the trails, but they were just not real good in mud. The tread wear was almost non-existent in those 6000 miles. They would be my tire of choice, if I weren't so much into off roading.
I also had the 31 x 10.50 size that you are talking about.
Be sure to use around 28 psi to get the best ride, handling, and tread wear, if you go with either the BFG All Terrains or the BFG Muds.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?