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No, but the subject has been discussed. It might be time to bring it up again.
I'd love to give your show a good "listening to"... I'm sure it is interesting
Wouldn't know, I've never heard it.. Seriously though the feedback is kinda funny, there are days where we don't get any calls and I just run through my list of topics that I pick in advance and they get really good feedback from people who just sit and listen to the show. Frankly I prefer when we get calls, then I can just be myself and talk to someone about cars.
>No, but the subject has been discussed. It might be time to bring it up again.
What station is the program aired on?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
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And if they streamed it, I could rip your show for listening at a reasonable hour. :shades:
Any idea how to even start the diagnostics? :shades:
Bummer, dude!
1. Do the door locks work with the key FOB?
2. Are these all factory installed remote start systems, or are some/all of them after market add ons?
No, in fact a lot of the people can't get into their cars at all.
2. Are these all factory installed remote start systems, or are some/all of them after market add ons
Factory systems.
Good thought, now how would you "prove it"? Then, how do you fix it if that is the case?
so, like Steve said, you almost have to work from the other direction. When you have an active failure, systematically remove a possible source of interference, 1 at a time, until the fob works..
if you can do that, maybe then you can reverse engineer a solution!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Before we left, the waiter told us if we couldn't start our bikes, just roll them down the road a couple hundred meters and try again.
Sure enough, he was right. We couldn't disarm the ignition lock via the key fob, but on a Harley, it can be done manually by entering a code through the blinker switches. One guy with us tried that and was able to start his bike before moving it. The rest of us just followed the waiter's suggestion.
I have no idea what the antenna array was for or what it was transmitting.
Another phenomenom that can occur is rectification. The cell tower's signal couples onto wiring or the key FOB receiver's antenna. It is then rectified (converted to direct current, DC) and the resultant DC bias can overwelm the front end of the receiver.
Either case can be fixed simply by moving the vehicle out of range of the cell tower.
Yea, and it's getting to be more of a common occurrance.
Here is one that was figured out a few years ago.
http://www.watertowndailytimes.com/article/20100527/NEWS03/305279999
So you have 2 ways to go about diagnosing. 1 is try to get the car to tell you (though I would not be surprised if there was nothing to tell, since the car would think the fob was not there).
Actually the car knows the fob is there, but the signal from the automatic doors keeps being detected and the car goes into "anti-scan" to prevent some theif from being able to trick the car into unlocking. To most owners who have a key as well as a key fob, they simply have to open the door with their key, and then the can start their car. They would only report that the key fob doesn't work at random times. Keep in mind the proximity to the door sensor will change with each visit to the store for most people so they may not associate the failure events with one specific location.
Now to "prove" it. Connecting a fully functional scan tool, which means the top of the line Snap-On's, Bosch MDS or the actual O.E. equipment where the tech has full access to the immobilizer and the remote keyless entry (RKE) functions would be required. In a lot of cases only the O.E. tool will give the tech access. Drive the car to the reported problem location, "open a window" and see what the car will report to the tool as different functions are observed. If the car goes into anti-scan you will see that reported in data and of course the fob will be inoperative.
To get a car started that keeps tripping, the store just needs to turn off their doors for a little bit, some cars as little as 30 seconds, others as much as two minutes.
The shopping cart anti theft systems are a bit like a hidden fence for your dog, except they don't shock the person who is taking the stores cart, they just lock up the wheels. These systems operate a 9K hz, way too low to be of any concern for RKE, and even TPMS systems.
http://www.gatekeepersystems.com/sol_cc_cc_how_it_works.php
And if you complain, the stores will hide behind the FCC and will refuse to pay towing charges.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The people in the store would likely have no idea this really is occurring, to them the person would look like they are trying to scam the store. If you thought someone was trying to scam you, how would you react?
To them, they see hundreds of cars go in and out successfully, and occasionally see someone who has a broken car. Having someone off the wall blame them for a car having a problem would simply not make any sense to them.
Then we have the other problem, "the who's going to pay for this" dance you expose. Most people have towing on their insurance policies, and then many others have AAA etc. So the towing price is mute. For the tow companies, some consumers will turn around and blame them for the service, as if the tow truck drivers are supposed to know everything there is to know about vehicle electronics. Heck, it may take a month or two of calls for one company to even begin to realize that a pattern is even occurring, let alone get to the point that something near a given store is to blame at all.
The biggest problem is now that this is here, someone could simply google and find this thread. The reaction will be to blame a store first without any proof or confirmation if the reason they couldn't get into their car is this particular problem or not. To confirm it, simply go get your car after hours when the doors are turned off, or ask the store again if they could briefly turn the sensors off. Once confirmed, just simply park far enough away from the door sensors and everything will be fine.
No. The electronics are well shielded and with the use of bias voltage carriers, and twisted pair communication busses external normal EMI wont shut down a car.
Good - solve the no start and the obesity problem in one fell swoop.
(When I crash into storefronts, I always use the bee in the car excuse myself).
I'm planning ahead in case my Buick decides to act up on me some day with unintended acceleration! Excuse: it was the radar for the door openers or the infrared sensor for same and its decoding circuitry. :sick:
With the drive-by-wire setups in cars and the increased electronics, side incursion sensors, lane departure sensors, frontal spacing sensors for the cruise control, sensor for the automatic this-n-that..., etc., I want to know what to look for as I shop for a car. I want to know that a key will still work in the door and a key will still work in the ignition for starting. :surprise: But what about my question if systems can be disrupted while driving.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
What about it? Until the day comes when we have verifiable proof of an event, the expectation at this time is that it's not going to happen. Can you turn your car off with your fob? (No) What happens if you throw the fob out the window while your driving down the road, does the car stop? (No)
If you insist on a car with a conventional key, then make sure you get one in your hand and use it when you go for a road test. If you don't like or want to trust a Smart Key, then your going to have to choose a different car in some cases. The smart key technology is making cars more secure, but like everything in there is world there is always going to be a learning curve associated with new technologies.
Eric means well, he dosen't know how things have changed.
"If you use synthetic in your older engine, you'll notice that your engine will get noisier?" ---say WHAT?!
"you will develop oil leaks because synthetic oil can slip through smaller spaces"---say WHAT?!
When I started to leave, I noticed my fob wouldn't unlock the car door until I was about 6" from the door handle.
My question is, if anyone knows the answer... Is there some sort of jamming device used at locations where blasting is done, to prevent stray signals from prematurely detonating the explosives? If so, is it FCC approved?
I'm just curious...
Click BOOM "What's wrong..." Click BOOM "...with this..." Click BOOM "...darned fob??" Click BOOM
:P
Which brings to mind another source for a lead though in one of those parking lot scenarios if it was an emergency. Often there are medical offices nearby to malls, and any dentist office, hospital etc X-ray dept might lend out a lead blanket for a few minutes... with a substantial deposit.
Sure am glad I can't afford all this pushbutton start crap..I have been skeptical about it from the start and here is just another example that not all new tech enhances our lives. It just seems wrong to not to have to use a key, in the ignition first and then push a start button if you want...like the first Miatas or? had. I forget...
the tinhat crowdpeople buy to keep the Federal Reserve from finding out what their credit limit is. :shades:There are devices out there to jam cell phone communications. But they are illegal for the general public to possess.
However, I'm not sure how useful that would be in a blasting area. Theoretically, the RF (radio frequency) emissions from the jammer could set off the blast as easily as a cell phone, maybe even easier because the jammer probably puts out a lot more power/energy than a typical cell phone.
Ya left out the pyramid!
RMF???
No, don't need lead. Aluminum foil will work fine for shielding/reflecting far-field RF energy. So will copper. Or steel. Also, it doesn't have to be solid. A mesh or screen will do, depending on the frequency of interest.
The space blanket host referred to usually has a thin layer of aluminum deposited onto one side to reflect heat back towards the occupant.
Sure will, so long as the mylar has a metallic coating on it. Plain old mylar is transparent to RF - it's the metallic coating that gives it it's shielding capability.
Anyone here use an EZ Pass for automated toll collection? Mine came in a ESD (Electrostatic Sensitive Discharge) bag. Looks dark grey, but you can see through it. Put your Ez Pass in it and it can't be read.
In fact, while they may work, I still suspect that not as affectively. if someone was trying to get into their car at that mall and they tried a roll of tin foil outta their shopping cart and that didn't work, I would put my money on the lead.
But of course I might lose it all the same..(the money)
Sure is interesting though to read about things like this...it is not a simple world we have anymore...not even close..
In fact, while they may work, I still suspect that not as affectively.
That's a bit of "over-generalizing"...
Think about it in terms of things you can see.
A tent will keep you dry in a rainstorm, up to a point. Overload the capacity, say, by turning a fire truck hose on it, and the occupants are going to get wet.
From a radiation standpoint, generally speaking, the denser the metal, the more effective it is at blocking radiation. Dental office X-rays are pretty intense, and that's why a lead blanket is used in that instance.
If you're attempting to avoid minor RF radiation, something as lightweight as perforated aluminum foil may suffice. It all depends on things like the power of the signal/radiation and frequency, but srs 49 is much more qualified than me when it comes to specifics...
I wonder if it really works?