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Take a 12" square of plywood with you as well. It'll spread the load if you have to use the jack on sand.
1 - Engine? (4 cyl or 6 cyl)
2 - Mileage?
3 - Does it get better when the engine warms up?
4 - You mention "could this be from not changing the oil", and the answer is of course yes, but how long and how many miles has it been? My 04 has 20k, so I would imagine you have to have at least that much. If you're driving in Miami city traffic and not changing the oil, this may be bad news...
how much do you think this will cost around?
tidester, host
Feel free to check out a couple other photo albums I've got out there...
My photos
Silver Lake State Park is probably about a couple hours drive South from Traverse City. I'm actually trying to find off-road locations in Michigan and so far, I can only attest to Silver Lake Sand Dunes.
Silver Lake State Park
The area around the entrance has shops geared to support the dune patrons. You can buy the necessary flags and permits. I suspect they also provide access to air-up your tires following your dune run (I think they recommend about 10-12 psi to lay the tires on top of the sand rather than digging in with harder tires).
The place from which we rented the Jeep is...
Sandy Korners
Really nice folks there and I highly recommend them if you want to get a feel for the place on your first time.
Here's a link to Michigan's DNR ORV Trail Maps. Unfortunately, it appears most are not for vehicles more than 50 inches wide but I think the U.P. may have more trails that allow for our Jeeps.
Michigan DNR Trail Maps
I hope you find a place to exercise your Jeep. I'm trying to figure out a way to take a mini-vacation and drive down to see Tom and ride the trails at Turkey Bay in KY. Tom and others here have posted some wonderful photos of wheelin' down there. I'd like to do a Jamboree but I just can't shell-out the necessary admission costs for myself and the rest of my family. I figure for that money I could drive down to KY and wheel with Tom.
I think forest roads are the best bet for us in Michigan but be sure you get a DNR off-road permit. I've heard the ticket can be rather steep so $16 is cheap insurance. Please let me know if you find any good places to off-road in Michigan.
Happy Jeepin'
I want to purchase a cargo carrier (hitch receiver-type), but want one to fold up so as not to have to take it on and off continuously (except of course when needing to open the rear door).
I thought initially the carriers themselves folded up, but saw on J.C. Whitney's site:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10108/s-10101/p-100000223425/med- iaCode-ZX/appId-5000002004437/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:1000002234255000002004437
This is a receiver bar that folds up, as opposed to the actual carrier folding up. Is this what I'm looking for? Also curious about the fold-ups having enough room in concert with the spare tire.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks, Randy
This is my first time posting on this board, but I have been a long time Jeep lover, having various jeeps over the last 14 years. Currently I have a 73 CJ5, and a 2006 Rubicon.
I've got about 750 miles on the rubicon with the I6, and I'm hearing a couple of noises that have got me a little concerned.
1. A rattling noise from the clutch/transmisson (6speed) area. It happens with the engine at idle, and the clutch engaged (pedal up). I'm figuring, that this may be a clutch disk cushion spring noise, which may be no big deal. The transmission also seems to shift a little hard at times, almost like the clutch is not releasing completely.
2. A possible engine ticking, which is most noticeable when the engine is around 1500-2200 RPM under light load (usually in 3rd or 4th when cruising down the road at ~35mph), but I can also hear it slightly at highway speed, even above the road noise of the MT/R's. If I accelerate hard, the noise seems to go away. The ticking doesn't get any better when the engine is warm either.
I brought the Rubicon in for service and had the mechanic go for a test drive, and he denied being able to hear the noise. ( He also was bringing the jeep up to over 4000 rpm with every gear shift until I asked him if he wanted to walk back!)
Then, I had the service manager go for a ride, and he said he could hear it loud and clear, but that it was normal for an inline 6 that has not been broken in yet.
I've owned a couple of the I6's before, and have never heard ticking this loud, and both of those had over 100K on them.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
-Tom :surprise:
Steve, Host
Although my 2.5L I-4 has an engine-powered fan drawing air through the radiator, I would not be surprised to see an electric fan in place of a fanbelt fan in the new Wrangler. I think the 3.8 has never had a belt driven fan because it has been installed only sideways in the front wheel drive minivans.
On another subject - regarding the 4WD connecting mechanism, I see a device on the front axle of my YJ that I have understood to be the 4WD locking mechanism (I presume this to be a sliding collar on a spline shaft). My understanding is that the transfer case is always connected to the front shaft and spins the front shaft and front differential. Disconnecting one of the front axles effectively disconnects the front end since the differential would be spinning the disconnected axle end. Is there an additional disconnect within the transfer case?
As always, thanks to all for outstanding technical discussions of Wrangler components.
Looking at the service manual, I see the "shift motor" which is a vacuum-operated solenoid that connects and disconnects one of the axle halves in the front axle of my YJ. It is an automated way of disconnecting the "hubs" to decrease wear on the front differential in 2WD mode. I don't think the original "MB" WWII jeeps had one, but I remember being able to buy manual hub connectors for the CJ's. If I recall correctly, YJ's were among the first 4WD vehicles that let you disconnect the front diff from the cab without having to go to the front wheels. However, looking at the TJ service manual (2000), I see no mention of a front axle disconnect system. Is there some other disconnect device for TJ front axles?
No, the TJ has a regular front axle with no disconnects, neither at the hubs nor at a halfshaft. In two wheel drive the front propeller shaft is disconnected within the transfer case, but will rotate when the vehicle is in motion because it's being driven by the front axle. In reality, having unlocking hubs does little to reduce wear, tear, or gas mileage, and adds to mechanical complexity.
It's unusual for a request for help to go unanswered in here. Guess not many folks checked the board yesterday.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
We need more than one photo in your album, Mtngal.
Steve, Host
I have a 2006 wrangler unlimited with the I6 and it makes the same noise. My dealer says its normal and could be the injectors. Hope he's right. Thanks
Mac24...I know you do your own rotations with every oil change each 3,000 miles. I haven't, yet, purchased the necessary jack stands and I'd like to get a good jack so until then, figured I'd just pay Discount Tire to do it. I used your advice to follow the manual on my Wrangler and Liberty by doing the forward cross with the spare on the right rear. Do you agree/disagree with the Discount Tire guy's 4/32 tread depth limit on including spare or not? Seems plausible. Based on his comments, I plan to check and compare tread depths and keep including the spare until that "limit" is finally observed.
Firstly, I'd be very unhappy when the Discount Tire guy didn't do what I specifically asked for in terms of a tire rotation. Second, I doubt that a 4/32" (1/8") difference in tread depth will cause a problem on either your Wrangler or Liberty. You don't want a practically worn out tire and a brand new one on the same axle, but he's taking it to the other extreme.
However, referring to the quote at the top, the whole idea of including the spare in a regular rotation is that "limit" will never be reached. One tire will always have 3k less than the others, though it won't always be the same tire, and that amount of wear won't come close to being a problem.
I just checked the Sears site and they have a 2 1/4 ton floor jack complete with a matching pair of axle stands, on sale for $27.49. That's just over half a tank of gas, and probably less than you paid Discount Tires for the rotation on your Jeeps. Just a thought.
I borrowed it from a friend to take 5 tires to StLouis, less than 200#'s bent the shaft in it and so I paid him for it, and put in a heavier shaft.
it said it was rated at 500 pounds, made by larin.
if you know anyone with metal working skills, you could probably build a nice one cheaper than buying a lightweight one.
Jeff
looking forward to a warm weekend, the soft top needs to go back on soon!!
I just put warn bumpers (front and rear with tire carrier) on my 97 TJ and they look SICK! If you are thinking about bumpers I definitely recommend warn.
Remember when toy trucks were metal?...ahh the days.
Personally, I was a huge fan of "Stompers". (Which were, ahem, really plasticky)
BTW...something I just learned...regular HTML markup seems to work fine here. If you have a big picture to post on the board (like the one I used here) just give it a width setting in the URL code that the board uses. (example: width='320') This way, it won't blow the forum up past the ads and everything to the right.
The rattling noise may be something else, as I seem to have it too. It happens at idle, and at the first touch of throttle. It may not be the same as what you have, but it might be. Seems to be much worse in cold temps. There is a person in the problems solutions thread that said they had the same thing. I read on a grand cherokee post that someone with a similar issue had some heat/ac components replaced, which temporarily fixed it. I'm about to take the dash completely out, as it's driving me nuts...
Here is a picture of Elliemae parked in front of my future driveway.
The BFG ATs seem to work pretty well around here, but we don't often get really icy conditions (and when it's that bad, I stay home!). By the way, it's snowing right now, so I might have an interesting time getting to work tomorrow.
I wouldn't recommend this rig for the highway but it should be fine for getting to the lake or river on the backroads. If you go the homemade foam route, the blocks tend to fly off when you hit bumps - the ones for sale usually have separate straps to tie the foam to the roof.
Steve, Host
I feel like you do in that I'll keep it forever. Do things to it I couldn't afford when I had my 89. Maybe a v8, even. Heated Bestop seats. Streetable lift, etc.
My extended family was/is in Phoenix. I would go a couple of times per year to Mesa to see them until they passed away. I couldn't believe how fast it was growing. Drove up to Flagstaff in a rental last time. Made me sad, as lots of places asked "do you have a 4wd? There's lots to see if you do". May have to road trip back down sometime.
If you get the 65th anniversary, are you getting the new green? I would think black will roast pretty good in the AZ sun...
I then bought the round 6" mirrors from Autzone(as suggested by the guys that sell the bracket). Worked out pretty well. I can't wait for the warm weather to get here and stay for good. I'm ready for topless /doorless Jeepin'
-Dan
Does anyone know of a good running board that does not require drilling?
http://www.jeepit.com/images/rubi-mirror2.jpg
Your doors are restrained from opening too far by straps. To remove a door, release the strap then remove the nut from each of the two hinge pins. Carefully lift the door from the hinges, then remove the appropriate fuse to prevent the interior lights from coming on.