Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

geo9 · January 2006

It is simple to remove the whole mirror to replace
the glass. Pop off the plastic interior piece and
there will be 2 bolt/nuts. Unplug power cord and
its off the truck.

I have a link around here somewhere with complete
pics and instructions. Will post when I find it.........

clunker3 · January 2006

After hard stop when releasing brake and starting to roll a loud metal clunk occurs, feels as if being tapped from rear end. noise sounds to be comming from mid truck. Springs been checked ok and also brakes. Suggestion was motor shifting forward in mounts then back and the clunk was in the trans to drive line connection. Any ideas.

rkowal · January 2006

2000 GMC SLT Sierra 4X4 80000 mi
My truck has been doing this for the last 30000 mi. Checked the driveline and everything is okay. Haven't checked my motor mounts but I don't that is the problem. Other than it has been a great truck.

mongrel · January 2006

I own a 2005 Sil. 1500HD, I love the truck just not her stance. My Fiance made me proud the other day when she said we should lift the truck to make it look better. The lift kit would only be for looks so I would like something that wouldn't give my any troubles down the road. I was thinking a 3-4" lift and I'm not sure about tire size, stock is 245/75/16I was thinking maybe 285's. Also should I go with a sus.lift or body lift or combo of both. Any input on the in and out of this is appreciated.
Thanks.

04cad · January 2006

Thanks for the reply - when you mention taking off the whole mirror, are you talking about the glass and plastic piece that fits right behind and around the glass part? I would really appreciate the link if and when you find it. Thanks

p100 · January 2006

Keep in mind that lifting a truck such as yours 3 or 4 inches will drop your already poor fuel mileage by another 1-2 MPG. More air resistance, larger tires to spin. With gas prices supposedly going up as much as 60 cents/gallon by mid '06, you may want to reconsider.

ray6811 · January 2006

what is the best exhaust for a 2000 gmc serria 2500 long box

bigfur · January 2006

The BEST would really be an opinion only, and we all know what opinions are like. I have a Flowmaster that i like alot since its a little loud when you on the gas but more mellow when you let up, being i drive quite a few miles a day i like this. I know Gibson sounds good and so does Magnaflow. Check them out see what you like best.

mongrel · January 2006

I'm in the market for a different exhaust and I'm not sure which to brand to buy. I know the really isn't on brand better than the other really just up the buyer on which sounds best. I bought on for my last truck (duramax) and was really disappointed in it so I'm really want to do some research before I fork over the $. I was leaning towards Flowmaster or Magnaflow any advice?

bigfur · January 2006

Have Flowmaster on my truck as i said earlier, i love it. Sounds great when you are on the gas, but when you dont have your foot hard on the pedal it isnt that loud. I believe mine was the 40 series(???) so its not loud all the time.

fisher1630 · January 2006

Looking for an aluminum tranny pan for a 2004 sierra 1500 with 5.3L V8. What brands would you recommend, really want it to have a drain plug too. Oh and what model tranny would my truck have anyway I left my owner's manual in my brothers car and he won't be around for a while. Thanks for your help

bbkg · January 2006

I'm confused. If I add mods, they'll only benefit me but so far, before Torque Management kicks in to safeguard my transmission. That sucks. Now I can get a tune to remove all of it or some but run the risk of damaging my transmission down the line. From what's been posted this could still happen with the Transgo & Corvette servo if I'm understanding correctly. Is there anything I can do so I can enjoy my mods without worrying about Torque Management and my Transmission?

I won't be racing at all, just a daily driver. Is the TM that noticeable? Don't want to speed onto a entrance ramp and then loose power!

If there is no definite way, looks like I'll be a whole lot richer and riding stock.

2005 1500 4wd 5.3L Ext Cab

geo9 · January 2006

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123667

04cad · January 2006

Regarding the passenger mirror glass replacement on a 2004 Silverado. Received the mirror glass today, $107. for the mirror, $10. for shipping. Gently pried the black plastic and mirror glass out of the mirror body, unplugged the light wiring plug and the two heating element electrical connectors and plugged them in on the back of the new mirror glass, aligned the new mirror glass and popped it in. Total replacement time: less than 5 minutes. Total savings: $32. for the mirror glass and possibly $50. installation.

geo9 · January 2006

Easy huh?

noobie1 · January 2006

fisher;

I'm not sure they have what you're looking for but check out:

http://www.mag-hytech.com/

I have their differential cover on my truck; doubles oil capacity, claims 40 deg. cooler running temperature (even if it doesn't, it looks cool [IMHO]), powder coated, dipstick, temperature sending unit accommodation, 'O'Ring seal - a high quality piece of workmanship.
I talked to the guy on the phone early on a Monday morning; Had it in my hand the next day.

-David

myred95 · January 2006

HI! I just bought a '95 GMC Sierra ext cab 4WD 150K+ miles in very nice shape and have three issues I would appreciate some helpful hints on. #1: I beleive the front brake rotors are out of round as it vibrates when I apply the brake and I can feel it through the pedal. Having not looked at a shop manual yet, how much trouble is it to replace rotors on a 4wd? Issue #2: The drivers side 60/40 power seat will not move forward with the easy access feature. I have to use the power to move it forward. Pass. side works fine. Issue #3: The heat/ac control for vent/def/floor/etc. only blows out the dash vents. I have no feeling in the knob of detents for positions or do not hear vac. shifting to the various positions. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank

03kw · January 2006

Replace spark plugs, 100k mls is best case scenario. I only have 3k mls on my 05' but will change mine early. Probably by 50k. For wires I like Accel, they have low ohms per foot. Try useing STP complete fuel system cleaner. I use it about every 6 months in all my vehicles, it works! I have an ext cab 1500, 5.3alum block, 4.10w/locker, modified hi-cap air box w/k&n filter, air-raid intake tube, fm50d single in/dual out,I use synthetic oil.My fuel mlg is 17.2-18, 40% hwy. That's in Co. Lol I hope this helps.

firesource · January 2006

have an '05 1/2 ton Crew Cab Silverado. At about 8000 miles, I began to hear a rattle / clunk in the front driver side area on uneven pavement.

1. 1st service appt ---- replaced driver side shock >> no change.
2. 2nd service appt ---- replaced intermediate steering shaft >>> no change
3. 3rd service appt ---- replaced front end body mounts >>> no change

I'm no mechanic, but it sounds like it has to do with compression and/or flexing of the front end when you either go over a bump, or across uneven pavement. Dealer is stumped. They don't have any other ideas --- and are unsure what to do.

Does anyone have any other ideas? I've lived w/this for 7,000 miles now and frankly, it's very discouraging. I can't be the only one experiencing this type of problem.

Thanks in advance for any help.

sierraupland · January 2006

I know this question has been asked somewhere in here but i can't find it. Anyway's I'm looking to see what what are the different tire sizes i can fit on my 04 1500 Sierra ext cab 2wd? I have 235/70/r16 but want something bigger. I a lot of on road driving but occasionally go in the back country as well. Thanks

bigtexstarg · January 2006

I am having the same issues. Have you added any new tire/ rims or nerf bars. I was told theta the nerf bars are rubbing against the frame or metal so I had them welded but it continues.

white6 · January 2006

I bought a set of factory Suburban take-offs: 265-70-17. I expected a small hit to ride quality, but they actually ride and drive much better than the 245-75-16 that came on the truck. Tires are Bridgestone Dueler AT. I also used a handheld Predator tuner to fix the speedometer error, since these new tires are significantly taller than what came on the truck. Using the 87 octane tune to slightly improve power and tranny shifting.

chrisw8 · January 2006

My,2003 Chevy Silverado 4x4 x-cab is having this clunking noise any time i go over a bump or rail road crossing, It feels like theres something loose or broken.My tkuck only has 6400 miles on it.The noise or feel is comming from the steering wheel i can feel it right throught the colum. any help ? Thanks

sebring95 · January 2006

Sounds like the int. steering shaft problem pretty much everyone else has had. Take it to dealer, they will fix.

nikitavom · January 2006

i HAVE A 05 SILVERADO 2500HD AND WITH THE SNOWPLOW PREP PAKG IT COME S WITH THE AUX. LIGHT SWITCH. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO FIND THE END TO THIS WIRE? I SEARCHED JUST ABOUT EVERYWHERE?

geo9 · January 2006

Open up your e-mail addy (In your profile only-or the
spambots will get ya and I can send instructions !)
Too wordy to post here !

Do you have a reg cab, crew, or extended cab?
It makes a difference !

Basically you are looking for a brown+ and black-
wires just deadheaded in your headliner (over the
driver).........The relay is usually in the left
rear B pillar depending on what model you have.

Plus it involves putting a maxi fuse in stud #2
of your underhood fuse center........

EASY to do tho.................

This site has GENERAL but NOT clear info. on the
VYU plow prep. option
http://www.gmupfitter.com
Go to publications, then tech bulletins #27

nikitavom · January 2006

opened email addy thanks all help appreciated.

picklesorvie · January 2006

It could be the intermediate steering shaft. GM has replaced lots and lots of these items. It might also
be the steering gear box which was part of the problem
with our 2004 1500 Silverado.
OC

picklesorvie · January 2006

It could be the steering gear box. We had the one on our
2004 Silverado replaced trying to get rid of the noise.
The intermediate steering shaft was also replaced but did
not solve the problem altogether.
OC

crfphilbert · January 2006

I currently own a 2005 25ooHD duramax diesel and was planning on putting exhaust stacks through the bed on my truck. I was wondering if anyone has done this and if the have ran into any problems with voiding warranties because of the stack or hole in bed.
Thanx

gearhed · January 2006

My 2003 Chevy Silverado Z71 ext cab, 21k miles, is making a small clunk thru the steering wheel at times. I can live with it, but will any serious damage happen if not fixed? What's the worst that can happen? The steering shaft or steering gear box seem to be common units replaced under warranty.

m_boise · January 2006

Hello. I have noticed this noise for some time now, but I thought I would drop it here and see if any of you have an explanation.

My truck has abou 10,000 miles on it. I put a cat-back flow and K&N CAI on it at around 3000 miles. I am up to date on all services.

Around 5,000 miles I noticed a noise while driving down the freeway. It sounded like changes in pavement texture, I could feel it slightly in the pedals. Then I noticed it on city streets going 35-45mph. How do I describe it...like fruhhm....fruhhm....fruhhm...equally spaced. Best way to describe it is when you go through patches of rough textured concrete on the highway, you notice a little change in road noise with a slight "feel" in the pedals.

I know it is not the roads because it does it everywhere. Is this one of those infamous silverado problems that everyone has and never gets solved?

Bad tires? Bridgestone Dueler A/T. They have been rotated twice.

Something to do with the flows?

texsun · January 2006

I put 265/75/16 Liberator ATs on stock rims on a '99 Sierra. No rub, good ride. Daughter owns the truck now.

covah23 · January 2006

Even noises could be almost anything. Drive down a flat (or flat-ish ) highway. let go of the wheel and see it it drifts to one side. do it several times in different lanes, since most roads are crowned in the middle. If it drifts, you may have and alignment, rim or rim issue. My flowmasters had a rumbling that pulsed. Just exhaust noise, not a problem. but it's hard to spell a sound, I know.

dowright82 · February 2006

Hey guys - about a week ago I posted about considering getting a new car, between a new 06 si, or a impreza wrx.

I would be trading a 2000 Silverado Sport Truck - been offered $8900 trade in: WITH THE FOLLOWING MODS

2000 Chevrolet Silverado Stepside 4.8 Liter 5 Speed Manual
---------------------------------------------------
This truck has 120,000 miles (I bought it at 24000)

K&N Cold Air induction system with a Granatelli MAF SENSOR
GIBSON HEADERS with a cat-back flowmaster exhaust system.
(THIS TRUCK SOUNDS AMAZING, TRUST ME, WHEN YOU HEAR IT YOU KNOW IT MEANS BUSINESS)
EATON POSI-TRACTION REAR END (LOCKS COMPLETELY UNDER 20 MILER PER HOUR)
20 inch very elegant wheels (NOT GHETTO)
BRAND NEW COOPER DISCOVERY HP 275/45/20 Tires (VERY PRICEY)
BELLTECH 2/4 Drop kit (Spindle kit which doesn't change ride quality at all)
Gas-adjust shocks in case you need to haul something in the bed
Black Rollup "Lite-rider" Tonneau Cover (VERY NICE, EASY TO ROLL UP AND DOWN, NICE FRAME NO SNAPS)

CHROME BILLET GRILL

--------------------------------------------------------
While yes, it is beginning to show signs of aging - squeaks, rattles, whines - IT RUNS GREAT - and it is paid for. I pay $1200 a year FULL COVERAGE STATE FARM. I am 23 years old.

My question is this - I have about 12K Cash saved - and my truck trade in offer today was $8940.

I'm looking at an 06 black SI NO NAV - for right at MSRP (19990) plus tax = $22k

OR

a 2004 WRX Impreza with 7800 miles for $20000 + TAX = 22500.

Is it being immature, and stupid to trade my nice custom, good running truck in now on a new (almost new) car, or should I invest a little money ($2k) and get my truck squeekless, smooth, and drive it for another few years until I can save more money to get an even nicer car?? OR should I just say goodbye to my reliable old beauty and get a new one??

I'm plannin on going to law school in 9 months. So thats a factor.

Picture of my truck HERE

I NEED SUGGESTIONS AND PRO/CONS

insurance on both the new cars would SKYROCKET to $2200 a year.

HELP ME!!! LOSING MY MIND THINKING ABOUT MY DECISION

sebring95 · February 2006

Keep the truck unless you're going to be driving a ton of miles where the gas savings might pay off. Your truck isn't going to lose much value from this on out. You may have to start sinking some cash into repairs but it's always cheaper to keep what you have. That insurance hit is enough to convince me.

dowright82 · February 2006

(EMOTIONAL SIDE COMING OUT)

Even if I'm 23, single, just graduated college??
I'm only young once right??

I'm making okay money for my point in life i guess - not at all bragging, just want to give you all the details for informational sake

I have 10k saved in cash

I did the numbers and even factoring the insurance hit,

I'm making about $42k a year, but planning on going to law school next year, so I'm only allowing myself 12 months to pay off my new car (if thats what I decide).

Even at 12 months - a new subaru payment (brand spankin new) after my 10k down and 8k trade in (would rather sell it to someone) my monthly payments (once again, at 12 months) would be $716 a month - then after a year, DONE.

On a used 2004 subaru, they would be $333 a month

this must be added to the additional $78 a month insurance.

does that change anything? or am I just young and stupid?

martyz · February 2006

Sounds like the steering shaft. Mine acted-up the same way around 20000 mi. If it is still under warranty, they should fix it for free.

jerrywimer · February 2006

That doesn't change anything- you're still out the ~$9k value of the truck, the $10k savings, plus whatever the car payment is. Don't forget that since either of the vehicles you are considering are fairly new, they are still going to be losing a large part of their value for the near future. And most financing requires full coverage auto insurance on the financed vehicle.

You didn't say whether you have full coverage on the truck, but since it's paid off you could conceivably go to liability-only and save even more money. So by keeping the truck you eliminate the cost of a monthly payment (even for only a year), keep $10k in the bank, and still have the ~$9k value of the vehicle that is going to depreciate very slowly at this point.

Basically, if the truck runs good, is fairly reliable, and you don't expect to have to drive the replacement vehicles enough to save you enough to cover the money spent on them, and you've been happy with the truck so far (looks good, by the way!), it's probably a better deal just to keep it.

In the end though the decision comes down mostly to what makes you happy, because money ain't everything!

sebring95 · February 2006

Obviously the emotional side has to play into this. Financially, your truck is the best option. Why not drive the truck another 12 months and stash the cash away that you'd be using to pay off the new car? You don't lose the depreciation on anything that way and you have a lot more flexibility along the way. But sometimes you've just gotta feed that "want" side more than your needs and nobody can give you advice to change that.

dowright82 · February 2006

Yeah - the responsible side of me agrees - and says hey, keep the truck awhile - then the other side says, what if (even if it seems perfect condition) something does go wrong soon - then I really will have a tough time getting rid of it.

I know I drive it really hard - but I do maintain it perfectly - its the paranoid side that expects something terrible to happen anytime - solely due to the high miles etc.

I don't haul anything ever. I usually (on a friday night) end up with 2 of my friends riding with me (one straddling the shifter uncomfortably, but out of choice to ride with me instead of drive) and the only thing I have used it as a truck for is moving furniture once a year and getting talked into moving all of my other friends junk because I'm the TRUCK GUY.

I really appreciate all this feedback guys, keep talking! Thanks so much

mcphck · February 2006

Hello all, new member here. I just recently purchased my first Chevy Truck, and I love it. Of course, even though its a great truck, I feel the need to modify it, performance wise at least.

I have been thinking of doing the following mods, and would like some opinions:
Cold Air Intake System, K&N or Airraid
Granetelli Mass Air Meter
Throttlebody spacer
Gibson Extreme Truck duel side exit exhaust
Hypertech Programmer for the ECM

Those are the definites. Im not looking for just stupid power, I want improved gas mileage as well. I travel on average 60-80 miles/day. I also thought of doing an engine mod that reroutes the anitfreeze hose that goes through the Throttlebody, and was wondering if anyone has done this, and how it worked, or if I shouldnt do it at all. I might also consider a new throttlebody, but again, Im looking for the best gas mileage possible. I dont beat the hell out of the truck, I just want it to be the best it can be. Considered a hyperground system as well.

I look forward to all opinions, and all the great feedback. Thanks in advance.

geo9 · February 2006

MC....Welcome to the forum!

Before you go buying all those $pendy parts which IMO are
about worthless. Do a PCM burn or a handheld tuner to
wake up that 6.0 !!!!!!!!!!

I have a Hypertech 3 handheld in my 04 2500 hd 6.0 and
it works great!
I use my truck for heavy towing, snowplowing and hauling.
The only problem is the Hypertech unit will NOT overide
the darn "torque mgmt.".
It has a lot more grunt and giddy-up tho along with a
few more MPGs on the cheapest gas I can find !

For a PCM burn check out the "Jesse tune aka Wait4 me" PCM burn tune thats been posted on the GM truck sites......$80 bucks!
Westers is a good burn too but pricey at $400? bucks.
Hypertech 3 is around $250
The Diablo preditor handheld WILL do what the Hypertech
unit does PLUS override/modify the torque mgmt.! $350

For me since the GM Tech 2 can "see" the PCM burn and I
am under warranty and want NO hassle when I break something
towing or plowing I can just pull the tune out!

I would start there before I do anything else !

obyone · February 2006

I also thought of doing an engine mod that reroutes the anitfreeze hose that goes through the Throttlebody, and was wondering if anyone has done this, and how it worked, or if I shouldnt do it at all. I might also consider a new throttlebody, but again, Im looking for the best gas mileage possible.

I've done this mod. I didn't particularly like the idea of heating up the intake air beleiving that cooler/denser is better. Didn't notice much of a difference before and after. Then again it's the cumulative effect of all the mods that really make the difference.

white6 · February 2006

Check ebay, your 2004 Silverado uses the same Predator tuner that 04 Corvette and 04 GTO use. Search for 04 predator; gto, corvette, or silverado. They are sold weekly for around $250. I bought one of these primarily to correct the speedometer error after mounting larger tires. I also loaded the 87 octane "performance" tune. Main advantage is getting rid of torque management and improving transmission performance. I saw a small increase in mileage, too. You can actually custom-tune your air/fuel ratio and spark advance in addition to transmission shifting/timing and torque management, if you want to really get into it. Or you can just use the "canned" performance tune built in... just remember that it is pretty conservative (liability and all). It also has real-time monitoring of sensor and engine parameters (O2 sensors, timing advance, long and short term fuel trims, throttle sensor, coolant and air intake temp, etc.)

mcphck · February 2006

I guess I should have mentioned that my truck has the 5.3L V8 in it. I wanted a diesle, but it just didnt work out this time.

geo9 · February 2006

A 5.3? Heck, they really DON'T have a torque mgmt. issue
like the 6.0 & 8.1s!

My bud has a 04 1/2 ex-cab 4x4 5.3 and he can BLOW my 6.0s
doors off. Bone stock too !!!!!!!!!!!!!

But when it comes time to tow 10k lbs. the 6.0 really shines!

Best bang for the buck...........A tuner of some sort!

blackburn3 · February 2006

Hello, I'm looking for a water leak in a 1999 GMC 2500, I have replaced the windshield but still have water coming in. The water has only been coming in on the drivers side after it rains, the next step the shop is going to take is to remove the hood and all wiper controls and then move to the fenders to look for cracks in body seams and worn or cracked gaskets. Any help to pinpoint this would be great

dowright82 · February 2006

Google search for "NELSON PERFORMANCE TUNE"

Its better than the hypertech/diablo/fill in the blank.
Volant Makes the best air intake for hp/$ ratio.
Granatelli is an ABSOLUTE NO NO. On a dyno you gain about 3 hp. The factory intake system is allready good to go for about 650 CFM - the granatelli would be usefull if you were pushing upwards of 500 hp.

Long Tube headers are the best upgrade you can do other than the NELSON TUNE. Also might consider a comp 212/218 .525 lift CAMSHAFT - at least 30 hp increase.

Trust me on this - I LIVED performance Silverado for a few years, its all I did.

NELSON TUNE NELSON TUNE NELSON TUNE.

On the dyno, the throttle-body spacer is also crap.

p100 · February 2006

I knew you did not have a 6.0 liter engine, because you could not get it on a 1500 series truck in '04. Only 1500 HD had them. Now they offer a Vortecmax 6.0 in regular 1500 series.

Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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