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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout
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the glass. Pop off the plastic interior piece and
there will be 2 bolt/nuts. Unplug power cord and
its off the truck.
I have a link around here somewhere with complete
pics and instructions. Will post when I find it.........
My truck has been doing this for the last 30000 mi. Checked the driveline and everything is okay. Haven't checked my motor mounts but I don't that is the problem. Other than it has been a great truck.
Thanks.
I won't be racing at all, just a daily driver. Is the TM that noticeable? Don't want to speed onto a entrance ramp and then loose power!
If there is no definite way, looks like I'll be a whole lot richer and riding stock.
2005 1500 4wd 5.3L Ext Cab
I'm not sure they have what you're looking for but check out:
http://www.mag-hytech.com/
I have their differential cover on my truck; doubles oil capacity, claims 40 deg. cooler running temperature (even if it doesn't, it looks cool [IMHO]), powder coated, dipstick, temperature sending unit accommodation, 'O'Ring seal - a high quality piece of workmanship.
I talked to the guy on the phone early on a Monday morning; Had it in my hand the next day.
-David
1. 1st service appt ---- replaced driver side shock >> no change.
2. 2nd service appt ---- replaced intermediate steering shaft >>> no change
3. 3rd service appt ---- replaced front end body mounts >>> no change
I'm no mechanic, but it sounds like it has to do with compression and/or flexing of the front end when you either go over a bump, or across uneven pavement. Dealer is stumped. They don't have any other ideas --- and are unsure what to do.
Does anyone have any other ideas? I've lived w/this for 7,000 miles now and frankly, it's very discouraging. I can't be the only one experiencing this type of problem.
Thanks in advance for any help.
spambots will get ya and I can send instructions !)
Too wordy to post here !
Do you have a reg cab, crew, or extended cab?
It makes a difference !
Basically you are looking for a brown+ and black-
wires just deadheaded in your headliner (over the
driver).........The relay is usually in the left
rear B pillar depending on what model you have.
Plus it involves putting a maxi fuse in stud #2
of your underhood fuse center........
EASY to do tho.................
This site has GENERAL but NOT clear info. on the
VYU plow prep. option
http://www.gmupfitter.com
Go to publications, then tech bulletins #27
be the steering gear box which was part of the problem
with our 2004 1500 Silverado.
OC
2004 Silverado replaced trying to get rid of the noise.
The intermediate steering shaft was also replaced but did
not solve the problem altogether.
OC
Thanx
My truck has abou 10,000 miles on it. I put a cat-back flow and K&N CAI on it at around 3000 miles. I am up to date on all services.
Around 5,000 miles I noticed a noise while driving down the freeway. It sounded like changes in pavement texture, I could feel it slightly in the pedals. Then I noticed it on city streets going 35-45mph. How do I describe it...like fruhhm....fruhhm....fruhhm...equally spaced. Best way to describe it is when you go through patches of rough textured concrete on the highway, you notice a little change in road noise with a slight "feel" in the pedals.
I know it is not the roads because it does it everywhere. Is this one of those infamous silverado problems that everyone has and never gets solved?
Bad tires? Bridgestone Dueler A/T. They have been rotated twice.
Something to do with the flows?
I would be trading a 2000 Silverado Sport Truck - been offered $8900 trade in: WITH THE FOLLOWING MODS
2000 Chevrolet Silverado Stepside 4.8 Liter 5 Speed Manual
---------------------------------------------------
This truck has 120,000 miles (I bought it at 24000)
K&N Cold Air induction system with a Granatelli MAF SENSOR
GIBSON HEADERS with a cat-back flowmaster exhaust system.
(THIS TRUCK SOUNDS AMAZING, TRUST ME, WHEN YOU HEAR IT YOU KNOW IT MEANS BUSINESS)
EATON POSI-TRACTION REAR END (LOCKS COMPLETELY UNDER 20 MILER PER HOUR)
20 inch very elegant wheels (NOT GHETTO)
BRAND NEW COOPER DISCOVERY HP 275/45/20 Tires (VERY PRICEY)
BELLTECH 2/4 Drop kit (Spindle kit which doesn't change ride quality at all)
Gas-adjust shocks in case you need to haul something in the bed
Black Rollup "Lite-rider" Tonneau Cover (VERY NICE, EASY TO ROLL UP AND DOWN, NICE FRAME NO SNAPS)
CHROME BILLET GRILL
--------------------------------------------------------
While yes, it is beginning to show signs of aging - squeaks, rattles, whines - IT RUNS GREAT - and it is paid for. I pay $1200 a year FULL COVERAGE STATE FARM. I am 23 years old.
My question is this - I have about 12K Cash saved - and my truck trade in offer today was $8940.
I'm looking at an 06 black SI NO NAV - for right at MSRP (19990) plus tax = $22k
OR
a 2004 WRX Impreza with 7800 miles for $20000 + TAX = 22500.
Is it being immature, and stupid to trade my nice custom, good running truck in now on a new (almost new) car, or should I invest a little money ($2k) and get my truck squeekless, smooth, and drive it for another few years until I can save more money to get an even nicer car?? OR should I just say goodbye to my reliable old beauty and get a new one??
I'm plannin on going to law school in 9 months. So thats a factor.
Picture of my truck HERE
I NEED SUGGESTIONS AND PRO/CONS
insurance on both the new cars would SKYROCKET to $2200 a year.
HELP ME!!! LOSING MY MIND THINKING ABOUT MY DECISION
Even if I'm 23, single, just graduated college??
I'm only young once right??
I'm making okay money for my point in life i guess - not at all bragging, just want to give you all the details for informational sake
I have 10k saved in cash
I did the numbers and even factoring the insurance hit,
I'm making about $42k a year, but planning on going to law school next year, so I'm only allowing myself 12 months to pay off my new car (if thats what I decide).
Even at 12 months - a new subaru payment (brand spankin new) after my 10k down and 8k trade in (would rather sell it to someone) my monthly payments (once again, at 12 months) would be $716 a month - then after a year, DONE.
On a used 2004 subaru, they would be $333 a month
this must be added to the additional $78 a month insurance.
does that change anything? or am I just young and stupid?
You didn't say whether you have full coverage on the truck, but since it's paid off you could conceivably go to liability-only and save even more money. So by keeping the truck you eliminate the cost of a monthly payment (even for only a year), keep $10k in the bank, and still have the ~$9k value of the vehicle that is going to depreciate very slowly at this point.
Basically, if the truck runs good, is fairly reliable, and you don't expect to have to drive the replacement vehicles enough to save you enough to cover the money spent on them, and you've been happy with the truck so far (looks good, by the way!), it's probably a better deal just to keep it.
In the end though the decision comes down mostly to what makes you happy, because money ain't everything!
I know I drive it really hard - but I do maintain it perfectly - its the paranoid side that expects something terrible to happen anytime - solely due to the high miles etc.
I don't haul anything ever. I usually (on a friday night) end up with 2 of my friends riding with me (one straddling the shifter uncomfortably, but out of choice to ride with me instead of drive) and the only thing I have used it as a truck for is moving furniture once a year and getting talked into moving all of my other friends junk because I'm the TRUCK GUY.
I really appreciate all this feedback guys, keep talking! Thanks so much
I have been thinking of doing the following mods, and would like some opinions:
Cold Air Intake System, K&N or Airraid
Granetelli Mass Air Meter
Throttlebody spacer
Gibson Extreme Truck duel side exit exhaust
Hypertech Programmer for the ECM
Those are the definites. Im not looking for just stupid power, I want improved gas mileage as well. I travel on average 60-80 miles/day. I also thought of doing an engine mod that reroutes the anitfreeze hose that goes through the Throttlebody, and was wondering if anyone has done this, and how it worked, or if I shouldnt do it at all. I might also consider a new throttlebody, but again, Im looking for the best gas mileage possible. I dont beat the hell out of the truck, I just want it to be the best it can be. Considered a hyperground system as well.
I look forward to all opinions, and all the great feedback. Thanks in advance.
Before you go buying all those $pendy parts which IMO are
about worthless. Do a PCM burn or a handheld tuner to
wake up that 6.0 !!!!!!!!!!
I have a Hypertech 3 handheld in my 04 2500 hd 6.0 and
it works great!
I use my truck for heavy towing, snowplowing and hauling.
The only problem is the Hypertech unit will NOT overide
the darn "torque mgmt.".
It has a lot more grunt and giddy-up tho along with a
few more MPGs on the cheapest gas I can find !
For a PCM burn check out the "Jesse tune aka Wait4 me" PCM burn tune thats been posted on the GM truck sites......$80 bucks!
Westers is a good burn too but pricey at $400? bucks.
Hypertech 3 is around $250
The Diablo preditor handheld WILL do what the Hypertech
unit does PLUS override/modify the torque mgmt.! $350
For me since the GM Tech 2 can "see" the PCM burn and I
am under warranty and want NO hassle when I break something
towing or plowing I can just pull the tune out!
I would start there before I do anything else !
I've done this mod. I didn't particularly like the idea of heating up the intake air beleiving that cooler/denser is better. Didn't notice much of a difference before and after. Then again it's the cumulative effect of all the mods that really make the difference.
like the 6.0 & 8.1s!
My bud has a 04 1/2 ex-cab 4x4 5.3 and he can BLOW my 6.0s
doors off. Bone stock too !!!!!!!!!!!!!
But when it comes time to tow 10k lbs. the 6.0 really shines!
Best bang for the buck...........A tuner of some sort!
Its better than the hypertech/diablo/fill in the blank.
Volant Makes the best air intake for hp/$ ratio.
Granatelli is an ABSOLUTE NO NO. On a dyno you gain about 3 hp. The factory intake system is allready good to go for about 650 CFM - the granatelli would be usefull if you were pushing upwards of 500 hp.
Long Tube headers are the best upgrade you can do other than the NELSON TUNE. Also might consider a comp 212/218 .525 lift CAMSHAFT - at least 30 hp increase.
Trust me on this - I LIVED performance Silverado for a few years, its all I did.
NELSON TUNE NELSON TUNE NELSON TUNE.
On the dyno, the throttle-body spacer is also crap.