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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • bigbutrbigbutr Member Posts: 111
    Well, I had heard of dangers of getting water in an engine since I was a previous owner of a Jeep CJ-7, so I didn't keep trying to turn it over once I realized what had happened. That in itself probably saved me from a major repair bill. Now I'm praying that there's nothing serious with the tranny. Thanks for all the input. I'll let you know what happens.
    Steve
    Panama City
  • bigbutrbigbutr Member Posts: 111
    Just got off the phone with the AAMCO people and they said that a bunch of codes came up when they hooked up the diagnostics tool. Said it was going to take 'hours' of diagnosing (ie, hope you have a hefty pocketbook) to figure out because of all of the sensors involved. Also, I might have to replace the PCM (about $800 was what he said and that didn't include all of the other charges).
    Maybe I'm just being naive because the engine runs fine, but could there be one main problem which would cause multiple error codes? I'll be going by in the morning to get a list of them since I found another site which tells what each code represents. I don't want to tell them how to do their job, but I get the feeling they see me as a cash cow when something 'relatively' simple could be causing the problems. Any ideas?
    Thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Idea #1, get it out of there and into a reputable private trans shop. Here's some light reading for you:

    http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/aamco.htm
    http://badbusinessbureau.com/results.asp?submit22=Search+All+The+Latest+Rip-Off+- Reports+Now%21&q1=ALL&q2=&q3=&q4=&q5=aamco&q6=&q7=
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Water in the transmission electrical connectors would cause multiple codes. Like alcan said get out of there, go to an honest independent shop. The national chains are not a good choice.
  • bigbutrbigbutr Member Posts: 111
    That's one of the problems, finding an honest independent shop since we've only been in the area less than six months. I told AAMCO not to continue on, though I wonder if they did anything to begin with since their bill ($42) said their complete external diagnostic service didn't find anything wrong with the tranny. Not that I'm surprised.
    I did make them give me the codes that were pulled, but all have to do with the TP sensor, MAP sensor, Mass Air Flow Circuit and IAC System High RPM. Don't know how those relate to the tranny, but I guess they do.
    I'll get it situated at some point. Thanks for advice.
    Steve
    Panama City
  • drice13drice13 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma and I was driving down the highway going about 70 mph when it just turned it self off and wouldn't restart. It acts like it is out of gas but it couldn't be because I had just filled the tank not but minutes before. It's had all of it's scheduled maintence through out it's life and even with the one previous owner.
    My peliminary thoughts are that it's either a fuel filter, the fuel pump, or may be the aniti-theft mechanisim malfunctioning. Has anyone else had a similar problem if so what was the diagnosis? Just trying to save my self some time and money and get er' back on the road.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    As you "Just filled it momens before" - any change you get tank full of Water ??
  • hastiinhastiin Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2000 Sonoma. My Sonoma als recently went dead. I turned on the truck, it ran for maybe 3 seconds and then it went dead. We tried to jump it too but nearly melted the cables. There is no electricity at all, no lights on the dash board, nothing. There is also no head lights. Any idea what happened?
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hastin Wrote

    " I also have a 2000 Sonoma. My Sonoma also recently went dead. I turned on the truck, it ran for maybe 3 seconds and then it went dead. We tried to jump it too but nearly melted the cables. There is no electricity at all, no lights on the dash board, nothing. There is also no head lights. Any idea what happened? "

    This does not sound good ...

    As it "did" start and run a few seconds - I'd check the following;

    Possibility # 1.) Battery is OK but you have have a major cable open - Check Cable leads to / from battery, Engine, starter, Grounds to Engine, frame, etc. etc. Remove the Batery leads, Check the battery Voltage, Check the cables / resistance on all leads. Use a Volt/Ohm meter ...

    or - 2.) You have a real major DEAD SHORT. (the fact you melted your jumpers indicates this my be the problem) - A Short In the battery - or in the Truck. Remove the Battery leads, Check the battery for Voltage and if at 0 volts - check for short between terminals. Check the +12 cable for contunity to ground. If it's in the Truck - Start disconnecting ONE cable point at a time with the OHM meter hooked up and Isolate the short ...

    I'm hoping it's the battery - or an easily found short (Cable rubbing, bad starter/Alternator... Alternative is you fried all the electronics .... Hope not ...
    Good Luck - Let us Know what you find!!!
  • argonzalezmargonzalezm Member Posts: 4
    Yes, Ive noticed that the light gets brighter.
    What could be the problem exactly? Where can have it checked?
    Sorry about the bold type.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    When the Truck senses a problem with the ABS - to puts the light on at under full brightness ...

    Could be a number of ABS things - but check your sensors on each wheel. Wires my be cut - sensor / bracket bent - too far away from the rotors - so it can't sense the wheel spinning ...
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Key on, engine off, jumper ALDL terminals A and H as shown below. Count the flashes on the brake warning light and post the codes:

    http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
  • donb4donb4 Member Posts: 1
    have a 2.3 4 standard 5 speed, when I back up It want to run about 7-8 mph, and the 1st gear run to fast . H as anyone ever change the clusters to lower to gear ratio between 1-2, thank for any input.
  • toby_pitttoby_pitt Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2000 Chevy S10 Blazer. The power windows don't work at all. The fuse is fine, but the wiring diagram says there is a 30 amp circuit breaker that I can not find in the I/P fuse panel or in the under the hood fuse box. Anyone know where this circuit breaker is hidden or what else I should look for?
    Thanks,
    toby_pitt
  • td_makertd_maker Member Posts: 1
    2000 S10 with 2.2 Litre, 85000 miles. Truck would start and idle fine, and it would even run good for about three miles. Then, it suddenly had no power. You could turn off the ignition, and it would start right up, but lacked power, coughed and spit.

    Code read po171 which is lean on left bank. First, I changed plugs and fuel filter...no change. Changed both of the 0/2 sensors..no difference. Changed tp sensor and the map sensor...same thing. Disconnected exhaust to check for bad Catalytic converter..same thing.

    Fuel pressure was fine....at idle! At speed and heavy throttle, the pressure would fall quickly. I changed out the fuel pump and PRESTO!!!! Problem solved. Damn thing runs as good as new now.

    I pulled off the bed of the truck and the fuel tank was right there. 8 15mm bolts, and a couple of electrical connectors and it lifted right off. Made my life easier.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Thanks TD !! Always nice to have someone post the "Cure".
    I had a 93 Olds - Mostly ran fine - however when you were accelerating - say on a ramp to get on the highway - the engine would bog down when you needed the power most.... It took the Shop a couple hours to find the issue (They almost changed the air flow sensor) - but it was the pump... At Idle the pressure was OK. At higher demand - the pressure dropped. IT had well over 100K mi at the time .. Cost me about $600 if I remember right ...
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi toby,

    Per my 2002 S10/Sonoma GM Service manual ...

    It looks like a dark green wire come from the C Breaker to the Windows. Breaker is listed as "Relay Block Body". Location is listed as "Left Side of Dash, to the right of the I/P fuse block"

    Hope this helps ... (If you are in snow belt - I hope the Windows failed when they were "UP" and not "Down" ;')

    canufixit
  • s10owner96s10owner96 Member Posts: 2
    HELP!.. I have had to replace my starter 3 times this year. What could be causing these to go bad so quickly? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. It gives no indication that it's about to fail either..

    :sick:
  • dmblair78dmblair78 Member Posts: 7
    Have you had any recent top end exhaust work done, such as the flex pipe from the manifold to the top end of the cat? I replaced my starter, then a couple of months later had to have the flex pipe replaced. Starter went dead a month later. When I got under to check out the starter the guys from Merlins (who I don't recommend) put a pipe on that was bent wrong. They had to actually bump the heat shield out of the way to get the pipe to bolt correctly. This caused the starter to get smoking hot and burnt up. When I took it back down to them they did get a pipe that was correct and replaced my starter. But it shouldn't have happened to begin with if the retard knew what he was doing when he put it on.
  • s10owner96s10owner96 Member Posts: 2
    I had the Cad Converter replaced along with the O2 Sensors, New Clutch and Fly Wheel, New Starter, New Water Pump, The usual Tune Up, and Then all these starters going bad.. Seems there is something simple thats wrong.. There is also a problem with my Transmission, the bearings need replacing, perhaps it's getting too hot and burning up the starter since they are in close proximity to each other.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Are you by chance buying your starters from Auto Zone??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    engine heat is one possibility, faulty installation can do it, also buying cheapo discount starters, which can have a very high failure rate. Get one from NAPA or other reliable source.
  • rcarlsonrcarlson Member Posts: 1
    Yep, you should be getting nearly twice that for mileage on the highway...my '94 has a 2.2 and 5 speed and routinely got 30-31mpg in its younger days....it now has 225,000 miles and still does the high 20s....my son is driving it at college...it's been a gem....Check fuel delivery (filter) and check the exhaust smell and what the residue inside the tailpipe is like. It may offer some clues to excess unburned fuel exiting the combustion chambers...sheesh....with that kinda mileage you might as well be driving a full-size
    good luck
  • bon120rbon120r Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 S10 Crewcab w/4.3l with the same thing happening, its not a fuel problem. Had it in the garage for a couple days, moved it out and a couple hrs later went to start it, turns over, but that is it. Haven't had the time to get it looked at yet. Figuring it may be the crank sensor.

    Any suggestions
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    What does "Fail" mean ?? Did it Smoke up ?? Grind up the gear?? Just "stop" - no noise, no noise - does it at least click when it dies ??

    If the Tranny and Cluch have been removed - I was thinking the starter could be aligned wrong and it's "jamming" on engagement - causing the statrer to bind / overheat, etc .. but you have few clues ... can you elaborate ?? Did all the pinion Gears Looks new when it died ??? Etc ...
  • bka76bka76 Member Posts: 4
    I have 2000 s-10, when lights are on all lights work, when push in the brake drivers side rear goes out completely.when key is out of truck brake light works on drivers side rear
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi,

    Does the Signal light work on the drivers side when you turn on the left directional (with Ignition on ??)...
  • bka76bka76 Member Posts: 4
    yes both front and back blinkers work with ignition on(alot dimmer than pass. side in rear)
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi, I'm looking at some 2002 Pick up Schematics (they are a bear to read ...)

    Two more Questions ...

    - Does your 3rd break light work OK ?? (Both with ign on and with it off ) ??

    - Try you Flashers - both with ing on and off ...

    Let me know what you see ...

    There are two paths to the Stop/Turn signals ... I'm trying to figure out with path to trace ...

    Canufixit ..
  • bka76bka76 Member Posts: 4
    3rd works ign. on & off

    flashers work ign. on & off

    yeah, I can not figure it out. I look under the truck i see the wires running along drivers side & splitting 1 goes to drivers side rear light mount & 1 goes to passenger side and ends it looks like.thanks for responding I am puzzled
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    OK - My inputs ...

    As the LR Brake light does work "in some confguration" - I will assume that the rear wiring is OK .. (Bulbs, contacts, Rear wiring ground , etc. etc .. - I assume you have checked these as we'll ....??)

    The Schematics are just terrible to follow - but I can say this ...
    There are multiple feeds paths to get power to the lights "up Front" of the vehicle (12v is always on for the Break lights - Power when the ign is on (for the Signals), etc ... As the Domestic version vehicles should be using the same side light bulbs for the Brake and turn - I'm assuming the issue is on the "Ign on" feed path.... This comes from various locations - and in summary I'd check the following;

    - Fuse in the interior fuse box (left end of Dash) - Check
    "Turn" fuse

    - In engine Compartment Fuse Block (Left side fender) check these 3 Fuses/modules;
    Stop LP
    Lt Turn
    CMSL (Center high mounted Stop light)

    For all Above -Pull, Clean, check fuses for contunity, Replace if in question, etc. etc...

    The Final Item it might be (and I hope not ) is in the "Multi function Switch" - But this is in the Steering column ... Before I'd go in there - I'd take it to the Dealer ....

    Hope this helps ???

    Canufixit
  • studmaestrostudmaestro Member Posts: 1
    I recently rebuilt a wrecked '03 s10 pickup. I had to replace a few parts on the motor that were broken from the wreck. One of them was the crank sensor, so I used a crank sensor out of a 2000 astrovan motor because it fit and the motor ran fine with it in. Now my "check engine soon" light comes on when I get on the freeway or hold it at 2200 rpm for a minute or more. I Pulled the codes and got "random/multiple cylinder misfire detected." Thinking it was my crank sensor, I went out and bought the correct one from the chevy dealer, installed it, and now my truck won't even start, it just clunks a few times and dies. I reinstalled Astro van sensor and it started just fine. Why won't the correct sensor work?
  • rcm710rcm710 Member Posts: 6
    Last October I purchased a 2002 Chevy S-10 P/U, 4.3, FWD. I later found out that this vehicle was previously owned, much to my chagrin, by Enterprise Rent-A-Car. Evidently they had the PCM programmed to shut down the fuel injectors at 80mph. I would like to set this feature to "off", together with the automatic headlamps and the automatic door locking feature. Does anyone know of a device I could buy to do this; at the same time leaving all of the pre-programmed parameters intact? Thanks- Bob :confuse:

    P.S. Thanks PRP1010 for your response post dated 12/22. I hope you come up with a cure for the problem.
  • bon120rbon120r Member Posts: 4
    The auto headlamps and auto door locking can be shut off by yourself. If you look in the owners manual, it will tell you what to do. For the PCM you will have to likely take it to a garage or if a friend has the diagnostic tool to change the parameters. We use the Mactools Mentor for our work.
  • bon120rbon120r Member Posts: 4
    Put the Mentor scan tool on, no codes, replaced plugs, dist cap and rotor still won't fire.
  • boognish3boognish3 Member Posts: 1
    Hey there I have been having some problems with starting my chevy s10... If my car has been idle for sometime 4+ hours it is difficult to start it. When I turn the ingition it will wine and crank and eventually it will start but there is definately a problem. I recently replaced the starter but wonder what could be causing this new problem. Any assistance is much appreciated.

    Thanks,
    DJ
  • scoreboardscoreboard Member Posts: 1
    I loaned my light trailer out and naturally the wiring pigtail came back damaged. I replace it not knowing that the wire (I assume, Is damaged somewhere). When I plugged it in, I first had turn signals for a minute or so, but nothing else. Now I have no turn, marker or brake lights on the left rear. Also, I have one of those trailer pigtail testers. Have no power to the trailer. Disconnected pigtail wiring harness and reconnected left rear light cluster directly into main harness with no change. Checked all fuses, both left dash and under hood. Flashers, running and turn all work on left front. Left turn blick fast. Flashers normal, both in ign on and off. Help!
  • bka76bka76 Member Posts: 4
    -------fixed--------
    I finally got under the truck and checked all connections. I un hooked the connection going to left rear light mount Tried the lights (nothing)straightened all wires cleaned all prongs plugged back in .Now everything works . I did also find a blown fuse Under hood (10A)I am so glad I didn't pay for this fix. :D
  • wally7wally7 Member Posts: 3
    just replaced water pump in 1999 ZR2 4.3and found that I had to re-torque bolts after a week or so because gasket started leaking. One of the two bolts right above said hose connection goes through into water space. Try a 14mm/9/16 (or maybe it was 13mm?) up in that blind space and tighten the bolts. worked for me! easier if you remove fan shroud.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Use sealer on any bolt going into a water jacket.
  • ttttracyyy69ttttracyyy69 Member Posts: 1
    we bought a 2002 s10 and the first 200 miles i went thru 3 head gaskets, so i replaced the motor,so far the only problem i`m have now is a charging problem which i at a loss everything is fine so who knows i cant wait to sale this so called truck.should have got a ford
  • dopydogdopydog Member Posts: 4
    does anyone know how to get the defrost vent out of the dash? i bought a billet one to replace it with.
  • rcm710rcm710 Member Posts: 6
    Dear bon120r:
    Thanks for the reply. I have tried the remedies indicated in the owners manual, but they are only TEMPORARY changes. As soon as the ignition switch is turned off and on again, the original factory settings are replaced. For example, I know that pushing the "dome override" button 4 times will turn off the daytime running lamps, until you shut down the ignition. Same is true for the door locks. By pushing the lock switch through a particular sequence, it changes when the doors are locked; until the key is switched off. I will look into the device known as "Mactools Mentor" and find out if it can be of help here. Thanks again -Bob ;)
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    I agree that the Dome Overide /DTRL "resets" after vehicle shutdown/re-start - but not the door locks - not in my 2002 ... Once set - it has stayed that way for 4 yrs ...
  • bon120rbon120r Member Posts: 4
    Turns out it was the immobilizer. Put the key in the ignition turned it to on, then locked/unlocked the doors with the remote and started the truck. Fired up right away. Figures.
  • brian33brian33 Member Posts: 1
    i just put a set of 245 50 r16 on my 2000 s-10 speedometer seems to be off by 10 mph any solutions
  • tanshepardtanshepard Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem on my 98. I just pulled the dash bottom apart and found the acutators near the gas pedal to work but the lower one had a problem. The plate that it moves was either broken or disconnected on the inside of the blower cowling. I pulled the actuator from the plate and moved it by hand, definitly had a problem. I replaced the heater core last year had to pull the dash to take the blower cowling/assy out 10 hrs later done. That is what this would take to fix the prob. Instead I took a piece of 1/4 " fuel line I had hanging around put it up the floor duct about 1-1.5' and it opened the plate have floor heat now, in the summer I'll think about a good fix. This worked for me. Good luck
  • glowingredglowingred Member Posts: 3
    Hey Folks! Just purchased a beater 98 S-10 so I figure I will be seeking advice often. This truck has 113,000 on it and has bounced off every guard rail within 200 miles of me..however was running like a top when i bought it..out of the blue the thing lost almost all power..service eng soon light came on..and cat conv was glowing cherry red.
    I figured the cat con was plugged so I replaced it..to no positive effect..the new one is glowing just as brightly in no time..however there is a lot more exhaust getting through...still no power tho and S E S light is still on..
    any help? :confuse:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Engine?
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Is that 113,000 miles or kilometers? The cat conv is warrantied by GM for 80,000 miles or 130,000 kilometers. You should not have to pay for it, if your within these mileage amounts. The cat conv falls under the emissions warranty and is transferable to subsequent owners.
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