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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dstangdstang Member Posts: 4
    Gas Sonoma truck 1991. The resevoir on the side seems to be split and three or four of the fins are cracked. I guess the thing that was throwing me off is that the other hoses all have a match. Two for Transmission, two for Engine block and then this orphan.

    Thank you,
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Looks like Autozone and Advance Auto Parts both carry it for anywhere between $135. - $160. Not bad for a truck radiator. The thing I like about Advance Auto web site is it actually shows a picture or diagram of the part your looking up. Sounds like a nice Saturday project.
    Good luck.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi Al,

    My suggestions ...

    - Cycling through the air vent settings will change the fan speed noise as you are changing the air direction/path/resistance (Just like AC and MAX AC) - I think this is normal ...

    - No Heat from Radiator - then the over flow tank drops - then you get "Some" heat -> I think you had an Air bubble in the radiator core - no water, no heat. Keep an eye on the over flow tank and let it cycle throught a full "Cold" to Hot and back cycles.

    - Hotter Engine gauge - well, There could be an issue here. But besides a hotter running engine - it could be that the high engine temp affected the sending unit - or - your DID change the thermostat - perhaps it runinng hotter because of that (Did you replace with the same temp thermometer ??)

    In summary - I'd run it real easy, watch the oil, Coolant - and check for an oil slick in the radiator... You may have lucked out ... alternatively you can do a compression test ...

    Good Luck Buddy !!
  • regnargregnarg Member Posts: 4
    I have recently been having problems with my 93 Sonoma. The "service engine soon" light has been coming on and so far I have replaced a cracked exhaust manifold, O2 sensor, and now the MAP sensor. The truck runs better now, but the light still comes on, just not as often. When starting it cold it revs up and down on its own, until it warms a bit. On the open highway it often feels like it is dragging an anchor, until the "service engine soon" light comes on, then it surges ahead. Changing the MAP sensor has helped this "anchor Syndrome" however I would like to make the service engine light go out perminently. I really feel that it is just a worn-out sensor, but I don't have the funds to replace my truck piece by piece. My next step will probabley be to replace the Throttle Position Sensor. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    You done a lot of good work here - Too bad it did not fix evertyhing.... You did not say if you have a code reader. If not - find a parts store (i.e. auto Zone?) that will read the code for you for free - perhaps that will get to the final solution quickest/cheapest ....

    Good Luck
  • dstangdstang Member Posts: 4
    I have a 4.3L V6 4wd truck. There is a black box 5" x 7" x 1" with two connector ports on the back side of the box, one 4 leads the other has 6 leads. The box is in the engine compartment right infront of the driver next to the break resevoir.
    I purchased the truck about a month ago and have not had any issues with it; only short trips. As I was tracking down an electrical connection, I found that the above box did not have the connectors connected. They were just hanging down in back of the box.
    Any clue as to what this could be. I did not follow the disconnected wires as of yet, that will be my task at hand tomorrow. As I mentioned the truck seems to run fine.

    Thank you,
  • regnargregnarg Member Posts: 4
    I originally got my truck scanned and codes for "lean exhaust" and "O2 sensor curciut open" came up, however that was before I replaced the exhaust manifold and O2 sensor. It cost me $120 for GMC to tell me that, so I havn't been really keen on going back. Does anyone have a list of sensors that a 1993 sonoma would have? The truck runs fine when the sevice engine soon light comes on, so I am rather sure it is just a sensor.

    Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    If you feel you have fixed the problem and you just want to clear the service engine light' you might try this procedure. Disconnect the battery, turn lights on or put your foot on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then reconnect the battery. It should clear the ECM if the discrepancy has been satisfied. Of course you'll have to reset your radio and clock. However, if the initial problem isn't resolved then the light will persist. Actually, if the problem has been resolved the light is supposed to clear itself. To obtain the code yourself isn't complicated. As Mr. Canufixit stated, the chain parts stores are glad to give a crash course of instruction. As we all know, it gets real expensive to start replacing sensors wholesale in hopes of getting lucky. I bought a test plug that fits my 92 S-10 for about $25. But actually I can do the same thing with a small jumper wire that doesn't cost anything. All this and the code definitions are listed in a Haynes manual. I'm not really keen on Haynes but they are plentiful & easy to obtain.

    Good luck and keep us posted on what you find out.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I have the same thing on a 92 S-10 2WD. As I understand it, the box you described has something to do with the anti-lock brakes. Only on this make the anti-lock is for the rear wheels. Last year I had to replace the ABS Modulator Valve. Its function is to evenly distribute the pressure between front and back brakes.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Congrats thebigal!! I just love it when a plan pulls together !!!
  • regnargregnarg Member Posts: 4
    Still having a few problems with my truck, service engine light coming on, hesitation, etc.. Will be changing the EGR valve tomorrow, I have been told that they can gum up and stick open or shut. Also makes sense as far as the codes for O2 sensor, and lean exhaust that I have been getting. This will be strike 4, 1-O2 sensor, 2-cracked exhaust manifold, 3-MAP sensor, 4-EGR Valve.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I've read on other post where the EGR has given a lot of trouble by sticking on the S-10's & S-15's. I would think a bad MAP or EGR would have a tendency to cause them to run rich instead of lean. Your order of sequence for troubleshooting sounds solid. I too would inspect the EGR next to make sure it’s opening and closing like it should. On random my S-10, 4.3 acts up on start up. It doesn't do it all the time. I'm wondering if it doesn't have something to do with the EGR. I had a MAP sensor go out on a four banger ford one time. The code it was giving was lying to me. While trouble shooting I filled my garage up with soot and carbon monoxide. That led to an unpleasant experience for me. Since then I've regarded trouble codes as a ballpark figure and not the gospel.
    Good luck and happy hunting. :)
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I am surprised you are having this many problems with the 2.5L engine. I had that engine in an 89 Celebrity and 91 Olds Ciera Wagon, both were quite durable. I had the O2 sensor go on the Celebrity and the same manifold problem happen to the Ciera. I sold the Ciera to my brother-in-law 6 years ago. He was still driving it up until last year until some one rear ended him. The car was a write off. Getting back to your problem, have you had your catalytic converter checked out? A bad converter could cause your engine light to come on. Good luck.
  • regnargregnarg Member Posts: 4
    I got my EGR (EXHAUST/GAS RECIRCULATION) valve off of my truck finally. If anyone needs to do this themselves you will need a 13mm crowfoot socket, or the carborator will have to come off. The old one sounds like a salt shaker, just full of black exhaust build-up. I am rather sure now that I have finally found the real problem.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Congratulations, and thanks for the tip in the 13mm crows foot. Keep us posted on the out-come. :)
  • boxlotboxlot Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 sonoma with vortec engine and 5 speed trans.Will a tranny out of an S-10 work or does it have to be from a Z or Sonoma.Also what years will fit.
    Thanks,
    Boxlot
  • joelc10joelc10 Member Posts: 2
    I am the original owner of a 2002 Sonoma, 52K miles. Without warning my truck won't start. I turn the key and get power but no crank, no nothing. Dealer checked and said the ignition switch had an intermitant open. Switch was replaced but the problem persists. The truck does start after sitting a while, sometimes minutes, sometimes hours. Dealer has no clue and calls it a ghost. Can anyone help?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Auto or manual trans, do you mean it won’t engage the starter. I would check neutral safety switch. If auto move from park to neutral and then try to start. Could be bad connection. Did dealer replace the key switch or the electrical ignition switch?
    There was an issue with GM starters at one time where the solenoid was bad. When the starter won’t turn over have someone put a 12 V test light on the small terminal on the starter relay, try to start if there is power at the small relay the starter is the issue.
  • joelc10joelc10 Member Posts: 2
    Automatic Transmission. The starter won't engage. First click of the key, power comes on, I turn to start, the power dims like normal when starting and than nothing, no click, no grind no nothing. Will try neatral when it happens again, and it will happen again. It happens with no warning.
  • gerdgerd Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 S-10 Ext Cab with V6. My Check Engine light comes on under heavy load at freeway speeds, and the engine goes into limp mode it seems. About 30 seconds after I lay off the accelerator, the truck goes back to normal running and the light goes off. I took it to Auto Zone twice and they say there are no trouble codes logged. I have about 47k miles on it and no other problems. All fluids are full and have a clean air filter.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    The light on will set a history code, have it read again some where else.
  • dfinley3dfinley3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 S-10 with a 2.2 liter and for the past year it has been cutting off while driving. It will start back up with no problem. Sometimes the ABS and Check engine light will come on, and sometimes it will not. I have had the check enging light on long enough to get it checked, and it was crank shaft position sensor. So I replaced that and it is still happening. Then I was told that the computer had to be re-programed. I went to Chevrolet, had it re-programed, and no help. This is a very sporadic problem, it only happens sometimes, but will always start back up with no problem. Seems to be electrical, PLEASE HELP!!
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    You said it cuts out "while driving" - So not at Idle - but when - low speed, acceleration, heavy acceleration, high speed only, etc ...

    I had as problem with a 93 Olds (120K approx.) - it would not die but almost - it started to cut out and bog down real bad at moderate acceleration (Ramp to Highway speed up) otherwise started and ran great.
    Per the Shop - Fuel pressure was fine - but the Volume was low. Replaced the Pump and all was well .. they said the did not intially suspect the pump as pressure was fine - but finally checkd the flow somehow - and caught it .. Otherwise I would have had to wait until the pump fully failed... (probably at teh worst time/place as usual ..)
  • boxlotboxlot Member Posts: 2
    the big al thanks alot for the info,it was very helpful.,
    boxlot
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    i have a 1984 s-10 that is shaking horribly while driving. today i took my boy out quad riding, and we load the quad in the back of the truck. well, as soon as we hit the road, the truck statred shimmying, not very much and barely noticable. as always he noticed the problem and took a little while to convince me that he wasnt crazy. it wasnt til we got up to the mountains that it realy got bad. i mean this isnt jsut a little vibration, this rocks THE WHOLE TRUCK. it feels like its in the front end but i cant be sure. when turning a corner, it shakes side to side. our friend who was folowing behind us said that he was loking and it looked fine, nothing shaking or anything. also, when going over bumps, it really sets it off, very scary. we pulled over and checked the truck over but nothing out of the ordinary. :confuse: it seems the faster we go, the less it shakes. i know it has nothing to do with the tires because they're fairly fresh. any ideas would be really helpful!

    ~tom
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    i forgot to mention that it only does it on-and-off, not all the time. i do believe it is a problem with the front suspenstion, as it slowly started getting worse. any ideas on how much it would be to fiz a problem? i really have to keep this on the road for those trips to the mountains, so i hope its reletaviley cheap. but i thank you for the opinion and i will definately have the tires checked in good time

    ~tom
  • s_man692000s_man692000 Member Posts: 5
    Hello,I see this is an old thread and im not sure if you resolved this issue,try this,change the ignition module !! It doesnt even matter if its been recently replaced,you can get a 'bad" one,it happened to me.A faulty module can cut spark and fuel !! My brother in law lost both recently in a 89 sierra 1500 during a heat wave ,changed fuel pump,TBI unit,and computer......we didnt realise we were not getting spark until we removed a plug and turned it over.I then remembered working on my 91 sonoma,I forgot to plug in the wires to the distributor and guess what...no spark ...no fuel.I assured him that was the issue and so we went to NAPA and got the new ign. module and she fired right up and has been running ever since.....but initially he had the same problems / symptoms.Hope that helps
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    HI,

    I find it "Curious" that iit's "on-and-off, not all the time".... "
    This always leans me towards a unique if not very obvious solution to the problem. If, say, just the wheel was out of balance or bent - it would not just "go Away". Therefore the issue may be someting related to Time and circumstances.

    My suggestions;
    - If you suspect the Front end is way out - The front tires should show something for clues - Feathering, scuffing on the tread lines, etc ... So I would take a good look at the tires (esp the front and compare to the rear) for more clues ...

    But While you are looking at each tires (Jack up each wheel one at at time) -check pressures of course, - and "Spin the tire" by hand (slowly) and let your hand feel the flat OD diameter and then the side walls for bumps and bulges. Do this for a cold tire and then when hot - and better yet -do it again right after it's been driven and you think it is in the worse state. You may have a belt in the tire slipping around. Eventual mileage per trip and heat from the friction of the road may be causing it to slip out - then return after the vehicle sits. ( A time issue..)
    (Years ago one tire manufacturer had the reverse issue you state (Aramid (sp?) belted tires?)- it would vib when cold then get better - as the Belts tended to a "Set" when parked, then eventually evened out with a few miles and heat).

    Also while you have the tire off the ground - and spinning - check (by eye and holding a piece of chalk just off the rim/tire) the rim and rubber O.D. to be sure these are not out or round warped, etc.

    As previously stated (by BigAl?) Check for missing weights as well - you may be out of balance. A incorrectly balanced tire many have the shock is hiding it until the shock gets overheated and then passes more of the vibs to the chassis. (Time issue again ..)

    And finaly, When you first start out and it's not too bad - try trying to "Drive through" the problem. For example - it the vibs start at, say, 40 MPH and get worse - try it a little faster - to see if it goes away at a higher MPH - If it does I'd suspect tire(s) being out of round - or out of balance .. (I recently had new tire install vib issues that started at 60MPH and went away at 68 MPH - I suspected an out of balanced tire(s) - but the new tires they installed had two of them out of round - and they had to trash them ..).

    Canufixit
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    i looked into these suggestions and found

    1) tire pressure is fine
    2)i spun the wheels and found no bumps, bulges, valleys, what have you
    3)all the weights are accounted for, but it is impossible for a weight to come off as there is a tire rim cover, that covers the weights to prevent this lol

    by on and off i ment that it didnt always shake WHILE driving it. it was an hour trip and throughout the drive it would stop periodlicaly, for a few minutes till i hit a bump, and then it would do it again. so it was shaking for about 90% of the trip. we took it out again to drive it around town for more evaluation of the problem, and it felt as it did yesterday, except for turining corners at low speeds, it sways side to side even worse now. and this shaking starts from the second we start moving, very slow but severe swaying side to side. then around 30 mph it doesnt feel muchy like swaying anymore, jsut a side to side vibration. then at free way speeds its barely noticeable until, like i said we hit a bump, particulary when entering a bridge. i feel this has nothing to do with heat issues because it shook as soon as i pulled out of the driveway
  • s_man692000s_man692000 Member Posts: 5
    The coolant temp sensor isnt in the throttle body,....im sure you figured that out ? Its in front of the throttle body by the thermostat housing.
  • s_man692000s_man692000 Member Posts: 5
    When you broke the engine down did you remove the timing chain/gears ?
  • s_man692000s_man692000 Member Posts: 5
    I know this is silly but did you bleed the brakes ?
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Boy - that sounds REAL bad ...

    At this point - I suggest you carefully drive it to a reliable mechanic and have the Front end checked for loose / warn parts and have them look underneath at the chassis and rear suspension as well ...

    If you asked them for a front end line up - typically they will do this first and minimal or no charge and give you an estimate.

    I'd not drive this until it was at least checked ...

    Please let us know what you do find ...

    Canufixit.
  • s_man692000s_man692000 Member Posts: 5
    Not sure about standard shift trucks but the automatic 4wd's are controlled by vacuum lines.And there is a vacuum control under the battery box the vacuum lines go to.A friend of mine had a blazer and we were offroading,he got stuck in 2wd went to go into 4wd and nothing,I could hear vacuum leaking,so I disconnected the line from the controller and hooked it directly to the intake vacuum port and it shifted right in to 4wd,he still thanks me to this day.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    i will thank you
  • giesbrechtgiesbrecht Member Posts: 1
    Hi my truck is doing the same thing ,just wondering what the problem was ? thank for your help.
  • lnarolnaro Member Posts: 2
  • lnarolnaro Member Posts: 2
    I have a Chevy S10 4WD, 1998. It won't start, no power to gauges but it turns over. Any ideas??
  • oldpawdadoldpawdad Member Posts: 14
    check the fusible link on the smaller wire leaving the battery positive. Or connection of this wire. It feeds the truck body. The starter may still spin.
  • christoph1christoph1 Member Posts: 1
    I got a 95 Blazer 4.3L V6, the SES light comes on each time I drive at highway speeds (over 55mph) for about 1h, but runs fine. Computer indicated that it is error code 173 Bank 1 running rich, SES light goes off after its been driven at speeds under 55mph for a few days again, and when the light is on the engine runs well with no additional fuel consumption. EGR valve was changed 2 years ago, and the PCV valve is working correctly any ideas? Air filter is not new but not dirty either.
  • flipper3flipper3 Member Posts: 10
    okay i already know that my problem lies in the TCCM, and that if I undo the battery let the truck sit for at least 5 minutes then reconnect the battery that it will go into 4hi once at least. the truck always goes into 4lo. but tis seems like a major pain in the [non-permissible content removed], especially since when i need 4hi it is for short periods of time but fairly regularly so i would like to be able to switch it on without unplugging the battery. does anyone know Where exactly the TCCM is and what it looks like, specific instructions would be nice since i have no owners manual because the truck is 2nd hand.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    I believe in my 2002 manual it has an emergency process to get the truck out of 4WD. You do it from the cab using the shifters/ brake pedals and such - seemed pretty simple and straight forward whn I read it - want me to look it up ??

    Canufixit
  • flipper3flipper3 Member Posts: 10
    thats not the problem, the thing will not go into 4hi unless i disconnect the battery cable for 5 minutes min. and then it only works for about 3 engages. the problem is not taking the truck out of 4wd. its putting it into 4hi. i dont want to have to disconnect the battery everytime.
  • skyethorskyethor Member Posts: 3
    The TCCM is behind the passenger side kick panel, it is a small silver box.
    I went to a dealer and he tried to tell me it was under the dash and needed to be programmed for my truck, [non-permissible content removed].
    I went to a junk yard and they showed me where it is located. They said all the s-10s and blaziers in their yard had them removed by people lookign for replacemnts, they cost about $400 new.
    My truck has the same problems, it will shift if i put it in neutral and stop.
    The dealer also told me they had no problems with the box or dash switches all the while nodding his head at me indicating they have a problem.
    I will never buy another Chevy again. The tail gate cables also rusted through, Chevy has recalled all the cables for larger trucks but refuses to admit the rubber coating on the cables causes water to stay in the cables when the gate is closed causing corrosion. :lemon:
  • flipper3flipper3 Member Posts: 10
    by behind the passengerside kick pan i assume that you mean in the engine compartment. if this is so about how far down do i need to look and how small of a silver box are we talking about, cause looking down from the engine compartment i can see 2 silver boxes on the passenger side of the truck against the kick pan
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi,

    I'll dump some some info here - and hope it helps ...

    Canufixit

    =====
    1.) Kick panel is inside the cab - passengers side. If you are sitting it's next to your right foot .. (it usually gets "kicked" getting in and out - hence the name).

    2.) Per my Operators manual - ;

    "On Automatic equipped vehicles, if your transfer case does not shift into 4 Hi, Your transmission indicator switch may need adjustment. With your transmission in neutral press and release the 4 hi button. While the 4 hi indicator light is flashing, shift your transmission into park. Wait until the 4 hi indicator light remains illuminated before shifting into gear. This will get you into 4 hi. but you should take your vehicle in for service to restore normal operation .... "

    2.) My full Shop manual has an extensive procedure (step by step - go/ no go) process for troubleshooting this.. It's too long to type - or I'd post ..

    3.) For the Tail gate cable just mentioned by skyethor ..

    On this Site (and this Doc is bear to find ...)
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/
    (See my post # 1823)

    it says this
    "NHTSA Action Number: NHTSA Recall Campaign Number:
    EA05008 N/A
    Make: CHEVROLET Model: SONOMA
    Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
    Year : 2002
    Component :
    LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES:TAILGATE:LATCH

    Date Investigation Opened : April 14, 2005
    Date Investigation Closed : May 19, 2006
    Summary:
    GENERAL MOTORS IS CONDUCTING A "SPECIAL POLICY" PROGRAM FOR 903,464 OWNERS OF 2000 - 2003 MODEL S/T VEHICLES THROUGH WHICH OWNERS MAY, AT THEIR OPTION, EITHER (1) PERIODICALLY INSPECT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES INSTALLED IN THEIR VEHICLE AND HAVE THE CABLES REPLACED IF THE CABLE COATING EXHIBITS ANY INDICATIONS OF DAMAGE OR DETERIORATION OR (2) REQUEST THAT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES BE REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE. GM WILL HONOR ALL REQUESTS BY OWNERS WHO OPT FOR REPLACEMENT WITHOUT QUESTION REGARDLESS OF THE CONDITION OR APPEARANCE OF THE CABLES. GM HAS AGREED TO MAIL REMINDER NOTIFICATIONS TO OWNERS EVERY TWO YEARS UNTIL THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES HAVE BEEN REPLACED OR UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS 12 YEARS OLD. ODI'S INVESTIGATION INDICATES THAT A SIGNIFICANT MAJORITY OF THE REPORTED COMPLAINTS (87%) AND INJURIES (94%) HAVE OCCURRED IN MY 2000 - 2003 S/T VEHICLES.
  • oldpawdadoldpawdad Member Posts: 14
    They cost about $70.00 each. Just replaced a set!!!!
  • flipper3flipper3 Member Posts: 10
    so is the TCCM under the truck or do i have to remove the passegerside kick panel to get to it
  • geemick53geemick53 Member Posts: 4
    I have been getting this code every couple of days. PO117 Engine Coolant Temp
    Circuit Low Input
    The other day I took the vehicle to the garage,they told me they changed out the Temperature Coolant Sensor.

    Today the Service Engine Light came on again. Had the Code checked. Same code came up again. When to Auto parts store checked it. They cleared the code . It came back on again within a half hour.
    I have a 1998 Blazer , 4.3 engine .
    Don't know where to look next . ?????
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    actualy i have decided to completely bag fixing this problem or any others that may come up. instead, i am going to buy another, newer, used truck for hauling and enter the s-10 in the tough trucks in the clark county fair. i really hope that destroys it because i do not want to drive it home in worse condition that it already is lol.or, if it isnt decomishoned, ill just leave it there so the big monster trucks can run it over lol.
    i think that wil solve the problem

    ~tom
This discussion has been closed.