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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Thank you,
Good luck.
My suggestions ...
- Cycling through the air vent settings will change the fan speed noise as you are changing the air direction/path/resistance (Just like AC and MAX AC) - I think this is normal ...
- No Heat from Radiator - then the over flow tank drops - then you get "Some" heat -> I think you had an Air bubble in the radiator core - no water, no heat. Keep an eye on the over flow tank and let it cycle throught a full "Cold" to Hot and back cycles.
- Hotter Engine gauge - well, There could be an issue here. But besides a hotter running engine - it could be that the high engine temp affected the sending unit - or - your DID change the thermostat - perhaps it runinng hotter because of that (Did you replace with the same temp thermometer ??)
In summary - I'd run it real easy, watch the oil, Coolant - and check for an oil slick in the radiator... You may have lucked out ... alternatively you can do a compression test ...
Good Luck Buddy !!
Good Luck
I purchased the truck about a month ago and have not had any issues with it; only short trips. As I was tracking down an electrical connection, I found that the above box did not have the connectors connected. They were just hanging down in back of the box.
Any clue as to what this could be. I did not follow the disconnected wires as of yet, that will be my task at hand tomorrow. As I mentioned the truck seems to run fine.
Thank you,
Thanks
Good luck and keep us posted on what you find out.
Good luck and happy hunting.
Thanks,
Boxlot
There was an issue with GM starters at one time where the solenoid was bad. When the starter won’t turn over have someone put a 12 V test light on the small terminal on the starter relay, try to start if there is power at the small relay the starter is the issue.
I had as problem with a 93 Olds (120K approx.) - it would not die but almost - it started to cut out and bog down real bad at moderate acceleration (Ramp to Highway speed up) otherwise started and ran great.
Per the Shop - Fuel pressure was fine - but the Volume was low. Replaced the Pump and all was well .. they said the did not intially suspect the pump as pressure was fine - but finally checkd the flow somehow - and caught it .. Otherwise I would have had to wait until the pump fully failed... (probably at teh worst time/place as usual ..)
boxlot
~tom
~tom
I find it "Curious" that iit's "on-and-off, not all the time".... "
This always leans me towards a unique if not very obvious solution to the problem. If, say, just the wheel was out of balance or bent - it would not just "go Away". Therefore the issue may be someting related to Time and circumstances.
My suggestions;
- If you suspect the Front end is way out - The front tires should show something for clues - Feathering, scuffing on the tread lines, etc ... So I would take a good look at the tires (esp the front and compare to the rear) for more clues ...
But While you are looking at each tires (Jack up each wheel one at at time) -check pressures of course, - and "Spin the tire" by hand (slowly) and let your hand feel the flat OD diameter and then the side walls for bumps and bulges. Do this for a cold tire and then when hot - and better yet -do it again right after it's been driven and you think it is in the worse state. You may have a belt in the tire slipping around. Eventual mileage per trip and heat from the friction of the road may be causing it to slip out - then return after the vehicle sits. ( A time issue..)
(Years ago one tire manufacturer had the reverse issue you state (Aramid (sp?) belted tires?)- it would vib when cold then get better - as the Belts tended to a "Set" when parked, then eventually evened out with a few miles and heat).
Also while you have the tire off the ground - and spinning - check (by eye and holding a piece of chalk just off the rim/tire) the rim and rubber O.D. to be sure these are not out or round warped, etc.
As previously stated (by BigAl?) Check for missing weights as well - you may be out of balance. A incorrectly balanced tire many have the shock is hiding it until the shock gets overheated and then passes more of the vibs to the chassis. (Time issue again ..)
And finaly, When you first start out and it's not too bad - try trying to "Drive through" the problem. For example - it the vibs start at, say, 40 MPH and get worse - try it a little faster - to see if it goes away at a higher MPH - If it does I'd suspect tire(s) being out of round - or out of balance .. (I recently had new tire install vib issues that started at 60MPH and went away at 68 MPH - I suspected an out of balanced tire(s) - but the new tires they installed had two of them out of round - and they had to trash them ..).
Canufixit
1) tire pressure is fine
2)i spun the wheels and found no bumps, bulges, valleys, what have you
3)all the weights are accounted for, but it is impossible for a weight to come off as there is a tire rim cover, that covers the weights to prevent this lol
by on and off i ment that it didnt always shake WHILE driving it. it was an hour trip and throughout the drive it would stop periodlicaly, for a few minutes till i hit a bump, and then it would do it again. so it was shaking for about 90% of the trip. we took it out again to drive it around town for more evaluation of the problem, and it felt as it did yesterday, except for turining corners at low speeds, it sways side to side even worse now. and this shaking starts from the second we start moving, very slow but severe swaying side to side. then around 30 mph it doesnt feel muchy like swaying anymore, jsut a side to side vibration. then at free way speeds its barely noticeable until, like i said we hit a bump, particulary when entering a bridge. i feel this has nothing to do with heat issues because it shook as soon as i pulled out of the driveway
At this point - I suggest you carefully drive it to a reliable mechanic and have the Front end checked for loose / warn parts and have them look underneath at the chassis and rear suspension as well ...
If you asked them for a front end line up - typically they will do this first and minimal or no charge and give you an estimate.
I'd not drive this until it was at least checked ...
Please let us know what you do find ...
Canufixit.
Canufixit
I went to a dealer and he tried to tell me it was under the dash and needed to be programmed for my truck, [non-permissible content removed].
I went to a junk yard and they showed me where it is located. They said all the s-10s and blaziers in their yard had them removed by people lookign for replacemnts, they cost about $400 new.
My truck has the same problems, it will shift if i put it in neutral and stop.
The dealer also told me they had no problems with the box or dash switches all the while nodding his head at me indicating they have a problem.
I will never buy another Chevy again. The tail gate cables also rusted through, Chevy has recalled all the cables for larger trucks but refuses to admit the rubber coating on the cables causes water to stay in the cables when the gate is closed causing corrosion. :lemon:
I'll dump some some info here - and hope it helps ...
Canufixit
=====
1.) Kick panel is inside the cab - passengers side. If you are sitting it's next to your right foot .. (it usually gets "kicked" getting in and out - hence the name).
2.) Per my Operators manual - ;
"On Automatic equipped vehicles, if your transfer case does not shift into 4 Hi, Your transmission indicator switch may need adjustment. With your transmission in neutral press and release the 4 hi button. While the 4 hi indicator light is flashing, shift your transmission into park. Wait until the 4 hi indicator light remains illuminated before shifting into gear. This will get you into 4 hi. but you should take your vehicle in for service to restore normal operation .... "
2.) My full Shop manual has an extensive procedure (step by step - go/ no go) process for troubleshooting this.. It's too long to type - or I'd post ..
3.) For the Tail gate cable just mentioned by skyethor ..
On this Site (and this Doc is bear to find ...)
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/
(See my post # 1823)
it says this
"NHTSA Action Number: NHTSA Recall Campaign Number:
EA05008 N/A
Make: CHEVROLET Model: SONOMA
Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Year : 2002
Component :
LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES:TAILGATE:LATCH
Date Investigation Opened : April 14, 2005
Date Investigation Closed : May 19, 2006
Summary:
GENERAL MOTORS IS CONDUCTING A "SPECIAL POLICY" PROGRAM FOR 903,464 OWNERS OF 2000 - 2003 MODEL S/T VEHICLES THROUGH WHICH OWNERS MAY, AT THEIR OPTION, EITHER (1) PERIODICALLY INSPECT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES INSTALLED IN THEIR VEHICLE AND HAVE THE CABLES REPLACED IF THE CABLE COATING EXHIBITS ANY INDICATIONS OF DAMAGE OR DETERIORATION OR (2) REQUEST THAT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES BE REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE. GM WILL HONOR ALL REQUESTS BY OWNERS WHO OPT FOR REPLACEMENT WITHOUT QUESTION REGARDLESS OF THE CONDITION OR APPEARANCE OF THE CABLES. GM HAS AGREED TO MAIL REMINDER NOTIFICATIONS TO OWNERS EVERY TWO YEARS UNTIL THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES HAVE BEEN REPLACED OR UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS 12 YEARS OLD. ODI'S INVESTIGATION INDICATES THAT A SIGNIFICANT MAJORITY OF THE REPORTED COMPLAINTS (87%) AND INJURIES (94%) HAVE OCCURRED IN MY 2000 - 2003 S/T VEHICLES.
Circuit Low Input
The other day I took the vehicle to the garage,they told me they changed out the Temperature Coolant Sensor.
Today the Service Engine Light came on again. Had the Code checked. Same code came up again. When to Auto parts store checked it. They cleared the code . It came back on again within a half hour.
I have a 1998 Blazer , 4.3 engine .
Don't know where to look next . ?????
i think that wil solve the problem
~tom