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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
The only things replaced on the 96 are the Power Brake Vacuum Booster, Water pump, alternator and a couple of clutches. It has drive California to Virginia pulling a trailer a couple of times.
The only thing on the 91 is an alternator and a couple of clutches.
Just a heads up though, don't think all S-10's are junk. Just remember that any make and model you look up on these forum boards are going to be about cars with issues, after all that is the purpose of these boards, to help people solve problems.
It does have a big hole in the muffler if that matters.
Could it be a cataletic converter?
Also chiltons reference to a lean o2 sensor is common a vacum leak or pressure regulator.
JP
JP
JP
1989 s10 2.5 4cyl
thanks
A few comments - Not sure if this helps ...
Sounds like you are not getting fuel ... another reply suggested the in engine compartment, change the Fuel Filter ... If you can - while you have the line open (and BE CAREFUL HERE due to the line pressure) see if you can turn on the fuel pump and verify you actual have good flow - and check the pressure as well ... It may be that crap and corrosion from the tank (from sitting or may be someone dumped in some foreign matter ??) clogged the fuel filter under the hood (and the injectors). Also, I'm not sure , but there may? be a fuel filter in the tank ?? Again, lack of flow / pressure may indicate that this filer (if there?) is blocked as well.... IT really sounds like a fuel supply problem .... Maybe even the fuel pump??
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Any ideas or suggestions? Is it a problem to just keep adding oil if the engine is consuming?
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Thanks for the time!
Thank You
.
1. Creators of the forum
2. Everybody who would care to give me some advice
My chevy s-10 91 , p/u, 4cyl, 2.5 L started having problems starting in the morning especially on wet rainy days. One day while driving I turned the AC on and the truck died right there. I was able to restart it some time later but it would stay running only if I slightly pushed the accelerator. Ok. I made it home and changed the fuel filter (oh naive me). I started the truck and it ran for some time but when I turned Ac on it died again. And this time wouldn't start at all. Plus my headlights stopped working. I replaced the fuel pump (the stainer was blown and apparently there was no pressure in the line). Hooked the pump but no result. I think I've blown something in the electrical department. I thank you in advance for any suggestions. How
How do i know that pump is getting voltage? how can I make sure it does/does not?
How do I check the relay?
What is it that I may've blown that shut my headlights? Voltage regulator?
Thank you one more time
JP
1996 GMC Sonoma SL (V6)
-Aaron
My brake line/s were rubbing on the hanger near the back wheel (driver's side) I covered the hanger up with some rubber hose and bingo! No more squeak! I don't know if this helps, but if it does, you are welcome!
-Aaron
AIM: eatalargecorndog
Can verify at parts store or in Chilton service manual.
the other sound...."grinding from behind the dash" at first the shop guys thought it was the tach..after they got the dash appart.......nope......after a few hours and a couple of opinions they tracked it down the PCV valve....never would have guessed! anyway still liking the truck, bit thursty though!
I just bought a 2002 GMC Sonoma with 50k miles for use in the Virgin Islands.
The battery keeps losing charge in 14-18 hours. New Battery did not help. Alternator is good.
No lights are on, but occasionally on very dark night, the lights in bottom of gauges (the park/neutral/drive light) appears to be on very dimly. It looks like a phosphorescence glow, not a real light.
Removal of fuse 4 in the cab (the gauge fuse) causes park/drive light and some of the gauges to go out when truck is turned on. However, the faint glow is still visible even when key is removed.
Removal of fuse 19 (the radio fuse) causes faint light on park/drive to go out, also the speedometer/odometer, gas, temp gauges also go out
Sometimes removal of fuse 19 causes all the gauges to quit working, sometimes not. When 19 is replaced, there is a surge and all gauges peg momentarily. Both fuse 19 and fuse 4 have to be removed to shut off the gauges.
Any ideas how this is possible?
Im kinda having the same problem with my truck.I was hoping that you could let me know how to reset the computer.My security light stays on all the time and I think that the security system is telling my computer to stop my injectors from working.The truck will start and run for maybe a second and then dies.I have to turn the key back,wait a few seconds and start the truck again inorder for it to start again.SOMBODY PLEASE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION!
I get a droning vibration starting around 35 MPH and getting louder until at least 75 MPH (didn't go faster). This just started happening one day with no obvious cause. It sounds like I'm being chased by a prop plane. I can feel the vibration in the floorboard. It's still there whether the trans is in any gear or in neutral, whether or not I'm braking, whether or not I'm turning, etc. Sometimes these events can slightly change the noise but it's still there.
I rotated the tires with no effect. I don't feel any "play" on any of the wheels. I looked at the driveshafts and didn't see any missing weights but maybe I wasn't looking close enough.
I tried jacking up the rear of the truck and running it to observe the driveshafts, but after getting up to around 55 MPH, the truck flooded and died. It took several tries to restart. After that I didn't want to keep trying that method so I stopped.
Any ideas?
Sometimes when I'm driving with the headlights on, they will blink out, along with the dash lights. Each event lasts under 1 second. This happens roughly every 15 miles (sometimes more frequently, sometimes less) so it's hard to isolate. One time the fuse for the rear running lights blew, and after that, no more glitches, until I replaced the fuse. What's strange to me is that is a different circuit than the headlights but I guess a short on that circuit can mess up the whole electrical system?
Any tips on troubleshooting something this infrequent?
You say "Vibration" then say "sounds like a prop plane" and "vibration in the florr boards" ? - leads me to think it might, possibly, be a wheel bearing in the front?? Get it up to the noise speed (35+) then, in a deserted straight road, do a long lazy weave - left , right, left, and see if you can hear the noise / feel the vibration change pitch .... It might not be this - but it's an easy test ....
Good Luck !!
This drop will stay until something gives - the "dead short" circuit's fuse gives - or until the short goes away (i.e., the wire moves off the frame). Now, The fuse will blow if the short is there long enough - BUT - it does take some fractional part of a second for the fuse to fry (and there are different types - i.e., AGC). In this "short" amount of time (pardon the pun) - the voltage drops in the entire system - including the computer, the relays, etc (almost everything) these starts to see the voltage drop/ spike. The relays can open, the computer can reset, etc .....
With that said - You said you changed the rear lights fuse - how was it blown?? Was it "Vaporized" (a DEAD short will do this!! ) - or was the fuse just melted enough to open (Minor over amp fuse blow) ??
If the fuse was vaporized - I'd stay on THAT circuit and check the entore harness - due to tha fact of what I said at the beginning. If not, Be patient and "hopefully" it will get worse real soon - and go completely out - then you have a situation you can trouble shoot ....
Canufixit ....