I am so very envious of you with your soft top and putting it up and down every day. I only enjoyed that during my Unlimited's first year last year. I moved this past Spring and have to live with the hard top on this whole year until I get back into a house. My soft top barely fits folded in my storage units. If I weren't already spending a pretty penny on two storage units I'd rent a small third one in which just to keep my hard top...oh well, next spring hopefully I'll be back into a house and able to store the hard top for the good months.
If I remember correctly, the latches on the head rail are the last items to secure when putting the soft top back on. Regarding the sunrider, be sure you've folded the soft top so the fabric crease is pointing to the rear. The strap then attaches to the head rail about 8 inches forward of the roll bar. What you describe with the "V" shape sounded like you might be folding the sunrider back with the fabric crease facing forward which would certainly put much more fabric ahead of the header lip through which the securing strap would shape into a "V"...not to mention diminish your open-air space above your head. Just wanted to be sure in case that's what you're doing.
Get your hair messed up for me will ya...I sure miss going topless.
Hi All I have an unlimited and have for well over a year. Love it and so do my boys 4 and 7. I have been having a hard time when I install the rear window on the soft top. The zipper just does not want to work around the first turn top. Tonight I just gave up due to the heat and bugs. Any suggestions or tips. Also has anyone installed a third seat belt for the rear seat.
I just bought a manual and they are little harder to find then autos - but I was willing to compromise on color. If you go to www.jeep.com you can search dealer inventory and its pretty up to date.
I had to cut my hair short so as not to get as messy.... I did have the V pointed forward and now that it points back it is awesome for these Atlanta days when rain can fall at any momemnt -
I must say that the Jeep is awesome - I'll keep letting the blow my hair for you down here in the south.....
I would recommend looking around more. Try to get exactly what you want. Its out there , you just have to find it. Be patient. The hunt can be fun and you will love the fruit of your labors even more. Go Easy, John
OK, here I go again. I'm still looking for a Wrangler and several of that I find are basic, without air conditioning. Actually, most of the time in the Summer the top would be down anyway and in the winter, the heater will be on. Is AC really important ? :confuse:
Here in Atlanta the A/C is very important even with the top down. I run mostly with the top down and that keeps me cool enough - but when I get stuck in traffic I turn on the A/C to keep me cool - and also those days that it rains. If your driving will allow you to be moving most of the time then A/C is not that important.... Try running your current car without A/C for a couple of days and see what you think.
I have a 02 Wrangler and am looking for a place to get my jeep serviced where they know what they are doing and don't charge an arm and a leg!!!!! Please no dealerships!!! Help!!!!! I live in North Miami Beach FL :shades:
Alright guys, im new to jeep land. What do these things mean? The jeeps I see in dealerships are SE, X, Unlimited, rubicon. What is a Tj and a YJ??? If I see parts with these letters on them will they fit my SE?? Thanks.
Here is a link to describe the 2 letter codes. click here Basically most of them are just a two letter code to describe the different Jeeps. The CJ "Civilian Jeep" is for the most part the only one that is an abbreviation. The new Wrangler coming out in '07 will be the JK. SE, X, Unlimited, rubicon, Sahara are the different models of the Wrangler. If your Jeep is a '97 to '06 model then it will be a TJ. Look for parts listed for TJs. The different wrangler models (SE, X , etc.) will not make a difference for most parts. What are you looking to buy?
Air conditioning dehumidifies as well as cools. In the winter, having a car filled with warm dry air is greatly preferable to one filled with warm damp air.
I would like to add some secure storage to our unlimted Wrangler - as we will be using it for traveling - We also need the back seat any advice would be greatly appreciate it.
Thanks for the response. Not sure what im going to get yet, I have a totally stock SE. Ive been looking at getting tow hooks, running boards, etc. But its good to know im looking for "TJ" compatable stuff. Thanks again.
Another noob question. What kind of tow ability does the wrangler 2.4l have? Im looking to tow a single waverunner on a small trailer. Can I do this? No, I didnt get the wrangler for towing purposes, but im just trying to figure out if this is a possibility.
You can try some of the Tuffy products. They have underseat as well as behind seat storage options available for Wranglers, including the LJ, I believe.
I used my Jeep to pull a log chipper about a month ago. When I was pulling off my property I used 4 wheel drive high to get up a hill with soft dirt. I was so excited about how easy it pulled the chipper out of the dirt I forgot to take it out of 4 wheel drive. I drove about 10 to 15 miles along a windy mountain road, towing the chipper, before I realized it. There dose not seem to be any problems yet. Do you think I can relax now?
Tow hooks are good to have. I think EVERY vehicle should have them. They could be used with water flooding, snow, sand, or whatever. They make things so much easier.
There are two main types of running boards. Either body mounted or frame mounted. Body mounted is for more hardcore off roading. The stock ones are plastic and if you do more than just light wheeling they are not the best option. They are plastic and can break and be pushed up into your body. Even the tube bars will not hold up too well if you get into the rough stuff off road. I have some stock ones I want to get rid of if you or anyone else wants them. My email is public. I like Turbo cities if you go with frame mounted. I don't think you have to drill holes. Unfortunately it looks like they took down all the pictures on their site with them mounted. turbo city side bars
Tuffy makes great products and they do make an Unlimited-specific box for the rear cargo area. But I'm not sure that will be your best option for concealing and securing luggage. It is a big drawer that is great for storing recovery gear, tools, etc., but its expensive ($300+ new) and doesn't make the best use of the space if your putting luggage back there. Does anyone know if Mopar makes a "lid" for the Unlimited rear storage area? I know several folks on here and elsewhere have made plywood covers to secure the cargo area of TJ's with the rear seat removed and you could do the same thing for your LJ with the rear seat in place. BTW there is a used Tuffy box for an Unlimited on eBay right now that's around $150 shipped. Just search "Jeep Unlimited Tuffy" and it should pop up.
My wife thinks i am crazy!! I drive a Tahoe now and she drives and Audi convertable. I am tired of driving the soccer mom special and would like to get something different. We dont have kids yet, but we are working on it, but is a Jeep safe for kids in car seats? how easy/hard is it to get them in and out, it would be the main transportation for the kids, does a Jeep hard top come off and on? is it a 2 man job? any info would be great
Welcome - and yes you are crazy and I think most people on this board would agree that they are also crazy - I think that is part of the jeep enjoyment - if your not crazy this may not be the car for you. I would suggest doing a search on the word crazy to see what people resonded to me when I ask almost this same question - my audi was an A4 and we have an Expidition - we got rid of the Audi.
I would strongly suggest the Unlimited and not to think about the regular short wheel base jeep. We have the unlimited it has 2 extra inches of rear leg room and then has 13 extra inches behind the rear seat. This will allow for the taking of strollers and other baby essentials. All my following answers are based on the unlimited - we also have the soft top only.
1. Safety - You lose steal and glass back there but the back seat in the current Jeep is in a ways so that adds to the saftey - I would check out the IIHS.org and Safecar.gov for the crash test data. Our son is 4 years old and loves the car - we looked last year at doing this and my wife was worried about saftey - this year she was fine about it - we are also in the process of adopting a little girl from China so we will have a new born in the Jeep and we are fine with that also - to me the bottom line is the car seat is going to keep the child the safe and is made to handle big time crashes.
2. Again with the unlimted the passenger front seat slides all the way to the front and both my wife (5'4 nothing) and I (6'1 and to much) can climb into the back area pretty easy - I would suggest making sure you get a car seat with a base that stays in the car - then you just push one button and the car seat come out and the base stays - makes it a lot easier to move car seats back and forth and would probably make this a non-issue. The drive side does move forward in the unlimited only - this gives you good access to the back but not as much as the passenger seat.
3. Regarding the hard top my understanding is that it is at least a 2 person job - maybe more. If you have the money and space - look for a top hoist - this would hook to the cieling in your garage and then hoist and store your top.
I will say we are loving our jeep unlimited and I think its great for kids - I will say its a lot more fun. Also, if your plans call for more than 2 kids - the current jeep has room only for 2 in the back.
I drive a Wrangler Sport and have since 2001. My first daughter was born in 2001 and my second in 2002. I have driven them to daycare everyday in the jeep. Is it hard to get them in and out? Yes, but it is all in what you are used to. I have to physically climb into the back and unbuckle them from their seats and get them out. I am used to it and it's no problem. I have lost the ability to remove or fold and tumble my backseat very often because that means complete removal and eventual reinstallation of their car seats. This means the lack of storage issue faced in all Wranglers is compounded. We use my wife's car for almost all weekend errands and trips etc.
One other issue is don't expect a young child or baby to love that open air as much as you will. It is much windier in the back than the front and they are much more dlicate in terms of that as well as sun etc.
I love my jeep or I would have long ago traded it for something more practical. It is do-able and I have never felt like my kids were unsafe but there are some "issues" you will have to be willing to put up with. Worth it for me when I do get to take the top down and enjoy a beautiful day. Or slip into 4wd and enjoy a crappy day.
I think the Unlimited is awesome - and with my 4 year old I find it easier to get him in and out of his car seat than the my old Audi A4 - lot more room
Also, you should be able to pick up an Unlimted at a great price I paid 22,500 for my Unlimted with the H package and 6 CD changer - that one now could probably be had at 21,500 to 22,000.
Look at Jeep.com and you can the different models and dealer search - you can also see the 2007 Wrangler - I perfer the 2006 unlimited model and it will soon become a classic - I'm not wild on the 4 doors - and being a new model could be buggy (I used to own a 2000 GC and it was buggy).
Once you get bit by the "wrangler fever" you can't get rid of it.
I have had my 4" lift on my 06 unlimited for a while now and I was having trouble with the shifter not staying in 2nd and 4th gear. I did lower the transfer case when I got the lift, so im assuming thats thats the problem. How hard is it to either adjust the shifter or get a longer one so that I can fix the problem so that the shifter will not hit the body and get knocked out of gear. I didn't want to take it apart without knowing how in depth a project it would be. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
The best solution is to return the t/c to its original position, which will return the lost ground clearance and aleviate and t/c shifting problems, then deal with the vibration issues using a correctly engineered solution i.e. drivetrain modifications.
However, you may get away with modifying the trim around the shifter boot, or possibly bending the shifter itself. There is no adjustment. A local welder may cut and sleeve the shifter for you. Also, both B&M and Hurst make a short throw shifter for earlier models so you might want to check with them.
Thanks Mac. I checked it out and found out from the manufactuer that I can bend the shifter 2-4 degrees to the front and that should fix the problem and would be the easiest.
I have been hearing a clunking noise from the right front of my 2000 TJ when I hit moderate bumps. I have traced it to the connection between the top of thelink you disconnect(I don't know it's name) and the sway bar. I tried to tighten it, but the nut seems to be bottomed out or out of treads. It looks like there is a grommet between the bar and the link. My guess is I need to replace it (probably both sides). So, what do I need to buy or fix?
Remember, I don't do off road stuff, so I have never messed with that area. I would like to have any parts before I take it apart.
I can't produce Tom I'm afraid, but I can give an answer.
Yes, you need to need to replace the link on both sides. It's known as part #52087-771AB, LINK Sway Eliminator. The top fitting with a boot is located rather like a tie rod end and requires a 'pickle fork' or similar for removal, which you can borrow from your local Autozone.
It's easiest to remove the whole sway bar and links combined. Just remove the swaybar clamp bolts and the bolts through the bottom of the links. You can then comfortably work on the top of the links. An alternative to the pickle fork is a ball joint press, or you can strike either side of the location hole simultaneously with two large hammers. You can even clamp the sway bar in a vise and beat the link out with a large hammer (this method is therapeutic if you've had a bad day).
Reassemble in reverse order, torquing the swaybar clamps to 40 ft.lbs., the bottom link bolts to 70 ft.lbs., and the top link nuts to 45 ft.lbs.
Hello all, I have an 02 Wrangler X Sport with an I6 engine and 5 speed manual transmission. It has very low miles. The truck is completly stock.
I was driving along today on the highway (going about 50-55 miles per hour) in 5th gear when all of a sudden the entire vehicle began to shake violently. No lights came on on the dashboard, but the engine started to cut out. I pulled over to the side instantally and released the clutch. Turned off the engine and got out to find smoke coming from around the transmission case under the front end of the vehicle. It smelled like burning moth balls, not burning rubber. I got it towed home on a flatbed truck, as I didn't want to drive it. I had just been out to a local dealership, and they had access to the vehicle. I think they may have shifted the 4 wheel drive lever around and somehow put it in-between 2H and 4H. The light didn't come on, on the dashboard saying that it was in 4H so that is why I didn't think to check. When I was driving it home from the dealer, the Jeep seemed to have trouble accelerating, especially when in 3, 4 and 5. It felt like something was holding it back. I checked to make sure the parking brake was on but didn't think to check if it was 100% in 2H. It starts and runs. I tried that once it was unloaded at the house. The transmission works, but I'm not going to try driving it again until I know what happened. It is now sitting in my driveway. I have no idea what to do.
What do you all think happened? How much, if any, damage was caused? What should I do with it?
I have an extended warranty with $50.00 deductable which I think will cover this (didn't think of that before, thought parts might be inexpensive), looks like that may be cheaper and a lot less trouble. Don't mind doing the work, for old guys, it's the darn getting down and up off the ground that's the hard part.
I've had my UN for 3 weeks, had the top down once but put it back up to shield my daughters from the sun in the backseat. I have the same problem: my 2 bow does not sit properly on the side bows. When I pull one side over so it is seated properly, the other side comes off. I have tried all of the adjustments to no avail. I think that this is happening to more people, they just aren't looking and don't realize it. My husband put some zip ties on each side to hold it all together. I believe that it is an engineering defect and that the 2 bow is too short.
I have been without a garage for several years due to downsizing from a house to a condo. We just purchased a new condo with a very large 2 bay garage with ample room for a work bench, etc. I'm Fat City!! Nothing like a good garage. May look into a hoist for the hardtop. Anyone recently install one? How much time/effort/money? Go Easy. John
You can build one yourself for close to $50.00. I bought a worm gear winch from E-bay for $10.00 and used some strut channel (i.e. unistrut) to make the frame. You will want a worm gear winch as it will not unwind on you if you let go. It all bolted together. Got the pulleys from a garage door supply for cheap. 4 ft. slings run from front to back. I used the slings in this fashion to keep the bottom of the hard top from spreading. I have also tweaked the alignment of the supporting members so everything hangs vertically. My initial from was made from black steel pipe and did not work very well. This is a much better solution. Hopefully the pics will show.
Sorry i don't have a detailed parts list. Worked on it sporadically.
Ah, KB2, it seems like yesterday you were trying to talk yourself out of keeping your HT. I'm glad you kept it. How are things in the northeast? Maine was awesome, btw. We did a lot of hikinng and sea kayaking.
Sweet! I just got my hoist setup a couple of weeks ago. I bought an electric hoist at a local tool store for $80 and connected it to a couple of 2x4's to hang above the rafters in my garage. Added a couple of tow straps and it was good to go.
I have been hearing a clunking noise from the right front of my 2000 TJ when I hit moderate bumps. I have traced it to the connection between the top of thelink you disconnect(I don't know it's name) and the sway bar. I tried to tighten it, but the nut seems to be bottomed out or out of treads. It looks like there is a grommet between the bar and the link. My guess is I need to replace it (probably both sides). So, what do I need to buy or fix?
Remember, I don't do off road stuff, so I have never messed with that area. I would like to have any parts before I take it apart.
Terry
Terry:
What Mac said.
I don't have this problem, since I have never re-connected my sway bar since the first time I disconnected it for "wheelin."
I'm not recommending that anyone else should leave their sway bar disco'd like I do. There is a risk involved, since the Jeep will lean way over in case of an emergency swerve or whenever a curve is taken a little too fast.
There are no good reasons to leave a sway bar disconnected on the highway. It's just laziness on my part, but then Thelma Jane pretty much just gets driven to Turkey Bay for wheelin' and back home again. She sees very little use otherwise.
Nice to know I'm still remembered around here. I have been pretty busy with helping get ready for a 40th high school class reunion, which will happen next summer, Good Lord willing. I CAN'T BELIEVE IT HAS BEEN 39 YEARS SINCE MY HIGH SCHOOL GRADUATION!
Comments
If I remember correctly, the latches on the head rail are the last items to secure when putting the soft top back on. Regarding the sunrider, be sure you've folded the soft top so the fabric crease is pointing to the rear. The strap then attaches to the head rail about 8 inches forward of the roll bar. What you describe with the "V" shape sounded like you might be folding the sunrider back with the fabric crease facing forward which would certainly put much more fabric ahead of the header lip through which the securing strap would shape into a "V"...not to mention diminish your open-air space above your head. Just wanted to be sure in case that's what you're doing.
Get your hair messed up for me will ya...I sure miss going topless.
I just bought a manual and they are little harder to find then autos - but I was willing to compromise on color. If you go to www.jeep.com you can search dealer inventory and its pretty up to date.
Good Luck
I must say that the Jeep is awesome - I'll keep letting the blow my hair for you down here in the south.....
topless is the only way for me....
Can't wait for it to break-in and the weather to chill a tad. People can't believe I commute in it every day.
It's a Jeep thing.
All I need now is my "Hummer Recovery Vehicle" sticker for my H2 coworkers.
Welcome back from a newbie
Good Luck
Oh, BTW, everyone else is invited too.
tidester, host
Here is a link to describe the 2 letter codes.
click here
Basically most of them are just a two letter code to describe the different Jeeps. The CJ "Civilian Jeep" is for the most part the only one that is an abbreviation.
The new Wrangler coming out in '07 will be the JK.
SE, X, Unlimited, rubicon, Sahara are the different models of the Wrangler. If your Jeep is a '97 to '06 model then it will be a TJ. Look for parts listed for TJs. The different wrangler models (SE, X , etc.) will not make a difference for most parts. What are you looking to buy?
And prior to the TJ but after the CJ is the YJ............that's the one with rectangular headlights.
I would like to add some secure storage to our unlimted Wrangler - as we will be using it for traveling - We also need the back seat any advice would be greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
John
Perhaps something like this:
http://www.tuffyproducts.com/trunk/131.html
-Paul
There are two main types of running boards. Either body mounted or frame mounted. Body mounted is for more hardcore off roading. The stock ones are plastic and if you do more than just light wheeling they are not the best option. They are plastic and can break and be pushed up into your body. Even the tube bars will not hold up too well if you get into the rough stuff off road.
I have some stock ones I want to get rid of if you or anyone else wants them. My email is public.
I like Turbo cities if you go with frame mounted. I don't think you have to drill holes. Unfortunately it looks like they took down all the pictures on their site with them mounted.
turbo city side bars
Could be, especially if you were going uphill.
Guess we can enjoy the pics.
With so many "niche" cars getting green-lighted these days, I thought this would get through.
-Dan
I would strongly suggest the Unlimited and not to think about the regular short wheel base jeep. We have the unlimited it has 2 extra inches of rear leg room and then has 13 extra inches behind the rear seat. This will allow for the taking of strollers and other baby essentials. All my following answers are based on the unlimited - we also have the soft top only.
1. Safety - You lose steal and glass back there but the back seat in the current Jeep is in a ways so that adds to the saftey - I would check out the IIHS.org and Safecar.gov for the crash test data. Our son is 4 years old and loves the car - we looked last year at doing this and my wife was worried about saftey - this year she was fine about it - we are also in the process of adopting a little girl from China so we will have a new born in the Jeep and we are fine with that also - to me the bottom line is the car seat is going to keep the child the safe and is made to handle big time crashes.
2. Again with the unlimted the passenger front seat slides all the way to the front and both my wife (5'4 nothing) and I (6'1 and to much) can climb into the back area pretty easy - I would suggest making sure you get a car seat with a base that stays in the car - then you just push one button and the car seat come out and the base stays - makes it a lot easier to move car seats back and forth and would probably make this a non-issue. The drive side does move forward in the unlimited only - this gives you good access to the back but not as much as the passenger seat.
3. Regarding the hard top my understanding is that it is at least a 2 person job - maybe more. If you have the money and space - look for a top hoist - this would hook to the cieling in your garage and then hoist and store your top.
I will say we are loving our jeep unlimited and I think its great for kids - I will say its a lot more fun. Also, if your plans call for more than 2 kids - the current jeep has room only for 2 in the back.
Good Luck!
John
One other issue is don't expect a young child or baby to love that open air as much as you will. It is much windier in the back than the front and they are much more dlicate in terms of that as well as sun etc.
I love my jeep or I would have long ago traded it for something more practical. It is do-able and I have never felt like my kids were unsafe but there are some "issues" you will have to be willing to put up with. Worth it for me when I do get to take the top down and enjoy a beautiful day. Or slip into 4wd and enjoy a crappy day.
That Unlimited is awsome, it is a lot cooler then my Tahoe.
Also, you should be able to pick up an Unlimted at a great price I paid 22,500 for my Unlimted with the H package and 6 CD changer - that one now could probably be had at 21,500 to 22,000.
Look at Jeep.com and you can the different models and dealer search - you can also see the 2007 Wrangler - I perfer the 2006 unlimited model and it will soon become a classic - I'm not wild on the 4 doors - and being a new model could be buggy (I used to own a 2000 GC and it was buggy).
Once you get bit by the "wrangler fever" you can't get rid of it.
However, you may get away with modifying the trim around the shifter boot, or possibly bending the shifter itself. There is no adjustment. A local welder may cut and sleeve the shifter for you. Also, both B&M and Hurst make a short throw shifter for earlier models so you might want to check with them.
I have been hearing a clunking noise from the right front of my 2000 TJ when I hit moderate bumps. I have traced it to the connection between the top of thelink you disconnect(I don't know it's name) and the sway bar. I tried to tighten it, but the nut seems to be bottomed out or out of treads. It looks like there is a grommet between the bar and the link. My guess is I need to replace it (probably both sides). So, what do I need to buy or fix?
Remember, I don't do off road stuff, so I have never messed with that area. I would like to have any parts before I take it apart.
Terry
The Tomster has been way too quiet lately - maybe this will prompt him to get back into the fray!
tidester, host
Terry
Yes, you need to need to replace the link on both sides. It's known as part #52087-771AB, LINK Sway Eliminator. The top fitting with a boot is located rather like a tie rod end and requires a 'pickle fork' or similar for removal, which you can borrow from your local Autozone.
It's easiest to remove the whole sway bar and links combined. Just remove the swaybar clamp bolts and the bolts through the bottom of the links. You can then comfortably work on the top of the links. An alternative to the pickle fork is a ball joint press, or you can strike either side of the location hole simultaneously with two large hammers. You can even clamp the sway bar in a vise and beat the link out with a large hammer (this method is therapeutic if you've had a bad day).
Reassemble in reverse order, torquing the swaybar clamps to 40 ft.lbs., the bottom link bolts to 70 ft.lbs., and the top link nuts to 45 ft.lbs.
I have an 02 Wrangler X Sport with an I6 engine and 5 speed manual transmission. It has very low miles. The truck is completly stock.
I was driving along today on the highway (going about 50-55 miles per hour) in 5th gear when all of a sudden the entire vehicle began to shake violently. No lights came on on the dashboard, but the engine started to cut out. I pulled over to the side instantally and released the clutch. Turned off the engine and got out to find smoke coming from around the transmission case under the front end of the vehicle. It smelled like burning moth balls, not burning rubber. I got it towed home on a flatbed truck, as I didn't want to drive it. I had just been out to a local dealership, and they had access to the vehicle. I think they may have shifted the 4 wheel drive lever around and somehow put it in-between 2H and 4H. The light didn't come on, on the dashboard saying that it was in 4H so that is why I didn't think to check. When I was driving it home from the dealer, the Jeep seemed to have trouble accelerating, especially when in 3, 4 and 5. It felt like something was holding it back. I checked to make sure the parking brake was on but didn't think to check if it was 100% in 2H. It starts and runs. I tried that once it was unloaded at the house. The transmission works, but I'm not going to try driving it again until I know what happened. It is now sitting in my driveway. I have no idea what to do.
What do you all think happened? How much, if any, damage was caused? What should I do with it?
Thank you!
I have an extended warranty with $50.00 deductable which I think will cover this (didn't think of that before, thought parts might be inexpensive), looks like that may be cheaper and a lot less trouble. Don't mind doing the work, for old guys, it's the darn getting down and up off the ground that's the hard part.
Terry
I've had my UN for 3 weeks, had the top down once but put it back up to shield my daughters from the sun in the backseat. I have the same problem: my 2 bow does not sit properly on the side bows. When I pull one side over so it is seated properly, the other side comes off. I have tried all of the adjustments to no avail. I think that this is happening to more people, they just aren't looking and don't realize it. My husband put some zip ties on each side to hold it all together. I believe that it is an engineering defect and that the 2 bow is too short.
Sorry i don't have a detailed parts list. Worked on it sporadically.
jb
tidester, host
I have been hearing a clunking noise from the right front of my 2000 TJ when I hit moderate bumps. I have traced it to the connection between the top of thelink you disconnect(I don't know it's name) and the sway bar. I tried to tighten it, but the nut seems to be bottomed out or out of treads. It looks like there is a grommet between the bar and the link. My guess is I need to replace it (probably both sides). So, what do I need to buy or fix?
Remember, I don't do off road stuff, so I have never messed with that area. I would like to have any parts before I take it apart.
Terry
Terry:
What Mac said.
I don't have this problem, since I have never re-connected my sway bar since the first time I disconnected it for "wheelin."
I'm not recommending that anyone else should leave their sway bar disco'd like I do. There is a risk involved, since the Jeep will lean way over in case of an emergency swerve or whenever a curve is taken a little too fast.
There are no good reasons to leave a sway bar disconnected on the highway. It's just laziness on my part, but then Thelma Jane pretty much just gets driven to Turkey Bay for wheelin' and back home again. She sees very little use otherwise.
Nice to know I'm still remembered around here. I have been pretty busy with helping get ready for a 40th high school class reunion, which will happen next summer, Good Lord willing. I CAN'T BELIEVE IT HAS BEEN 39 YEARS SINCE MY HIGH SCHOOL GRADUATION!
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?