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Jeep Wrangler



  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Saw a pair of decals on the rear window of a Wrangler in Bloomingale, Il. that read " official H2 recovery vehicle" and "official H3 recovery vehicle"
  • wpowellwpowell Posts: 125
    Yeah, and I think Mac is the owner of an "Official Wrangler Recovery Vehicle". Conspicuously absent from the sticker list was "H1 Recovery Vehicle" :)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I don't care what you drive - if you aren't getting stuck you aren't playing hard enough.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Oh you don't have to play hard to get stuck.
    Some people manage without even trying. :)

    However, those that off-road regularly are divided into two groups.
    Those that have got stuck, and those that will get stuck!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I've been stuck - I just know better than to get pics of it when it is happening. ;)

  • I am considering a sahara 4x4 with manual transmission and would be grateful for input regarding the following:

    1) What is the best way to extend the "clutch life". For instance when approaching a red light is it best to engage neutral and take one's foot off the clutch or is it best to leave the car in gear with the clutch engaged?

    2) What symptoms does a failing clutch make?

    3) is there any role in prophylactically changing the clutch at say for instance 60,000 miles?

    4) finally, is it possible to obtain a roof rack for a hard top?

    thanks in advance

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    1: Wear on the friction plate is caused when you 'slip' the clutch. So, ease up on the pedal smoothly and quickly as you move off and as you change gear. At all other times your foot should be off the pedal.
    Depress the pedal just before you come to a halt, engage neutral and remove your foot from the pedal while braking to a final stop at the same time.
    All the time your foot is on the clutch pedal, either resting on it or depressing it, the release bearing is wearing.
    Additionally, don't coast up to the light either in neutral or with the pedal depressed, as (a) you aren't benefiting from the control given by engine braking, and (b) you don't have the option of accelerating forward immediately if conditions change for any reason.

    2: An engine rpm increase without a corresponding increase in
    ground speed, sometimes accompanied by an unpleasant smell.

    3: much depends on variables like driving style and load that you can't guess at clutch life unless you've personally driven the vehicle since new.
    If you need peace of mind for whatever reason, then you'll probably want to inspect it, though remember it makes no economic sense to reinstall an old clutch.

    4: Yes...but that isn't a clutch question!
  • Dear mac24

    thank you for your advice

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,641
    Mac is dead on- as usual. I'd only add that I have a 1999 Sahara with 103K on the odometer and the original clutch assembly is still functioning perfectly- as is the rest of the Jeep, come to think of it... :D

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • I need help on how to replace the spekers,on a 1988 wrangler ,pease help
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    Kind of quiet here lately, but I still like this forum, and I check it often.
    109,000 miles on my '95 YJ - got a date to change the fuel pump & filter in a couple of weeks. Otherwise we keep rolling along quite nicely.
    Hope all is well with all of you.
  • Greetings all! I'm new to the forum and I'm actively in the market to buy my first Wrangler. I'm settling in on the 98-03 models, Sport or Sahara. I talked to one owner who told me to buy anything between 00 and 03, because of the beefier manual trans. Anything to that? I'm also quite sure I'd rather have the manual vs. the auto trans, I like to have more control than the auto would offer. I've also decided on definitely getting the hardtop(although, I've seen some really nice soft tops that do appeal). Any words of wisdom for this soon to be proud owner? I do like to get out in it to do some gold panning. I'll soon be returning to the Lake Tahoe area to live and wanted something for any condition. I'd appreciate any comments and suggestions. Thanks and I'm glad I found this forum.
  • jimlw2jimlw2 Posts: 122
    Welcome to the group...Gold panning, cool! Fits right in with a Jeep lifestyle so good choice of your next vehicle. Review the posts here from many looking for advice on manual vs. auto and it always comes down to personal preference. Like you said, lots like the total control of which gear gets the power. I was so torn, I bought one of each! :blush: I have an automatic and a manual in the Wrangler Unlimited styles ('05 and '06 respectively). After having the manual for just six months, I'm leaning toward liking the automatic better due to the smooth power on unimproved roads. I seem to concentrate on terrain better and enjoy the view more with the automatic. I tend to be a little "jerky" on the throttle/drive-train as the terrain gets bumpier. The manual just seems more "on/off" in terms of throttling as my foot jostles around on the pedal as things get bumpy whereas the automatic seems to "absorb" those little throttle changes caused by my foot bumping around as the Jeep humps and bumps along. Could be my techique needs improvement, too. ;)

    I wish you luck in your Jeep search...I hope it "pans-out"...sorry, I just had to say it. Better yet, I hope you find enough glitter to pay her off or at least buy her new meats or some fun mods. Be sure to show her off here when you get her.
  • I'm only a short time Wrangler owner and I firmly believe that the Rubicon is the only way to go. I've had mine stuck in nearly bumper deep clay and it's crawled out on its own. The equivilant can be done to a Sport or Sahara if you want to spend the added money on after market parts and installation. As for hard top or soft top, I live in Maryland and with the winters here I have absolutely no need for a hard top.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    For your area in Tahoe, a Rubicon makes good sense. The manual transmission was changed from the AX-15 to the beefier NV3550 transmission in later years, so that statement is valid. The manual transmission can be picky offroad, but hand throttles are easily installed to help 'smooth' things out if your foot bounces. I've offroaded some interesting terrain, and I've gotten pretty good at keeping my foot stable. For those rough times, the hand throttle is a good help.

    In California, a hard top would be nice for the snow, but you will want something soft for the summer. A soft top or a cheaper safari top would serve you VERY well. It would protect you from the hot sun at elevation (believe me, I know about Cali sun at elevation!), and provide some protection from rain, should you get some when the top is off.

    IF you plan to do this w/o any other vehicles, be sure to invest in a quality winch and follow safe practices for self recovery (shovels, snatch blocks, ground anchors, etc). Be sure you know what you're doing and do so safely.

  • Thanks jimlw2!

    I don't have a great deal of trouble with a manual. I cut my teeth on manuals in the deserts of southern Utah and northern Arizona. That's where I discovered how much I liked having a manual in those conditions. Actually fell in love with jeeps when I used to drive my uncles old WWII model all over the Arizona Strip. Believe me, there were places I went that would make even the most hardy of four-wheelers flinch with that old jeep. I think I found her though! An 02 Sport, black with slate gray interior, 2" lift, hardtop and only 49,000 miles on her. I've contacted the dealer and now I have to make the 300 mile trip to check her out. Wish me luck! :D
  • A Rubicon would be great mropat. But some of us have to work for a living in Bushworld! ;) I've looked at the Rubicon with great admiration, then came back to earth after the sticker shock. Guess I'll have to do it like you said, ". . .after market parts and installation." That's okay. Seems that's the chosen method from what I've garnered from those on the forum. It let's you form a bond with your baby. :P Kind of like the bond I have with my '65 VW Bus. I still have that thing and she runs like a champ.

    Query: With the winters in Maryland, don't you mean you have no need for a "soft top?"
  • Thanks for the tranny info erickpl. That's what I was told.
    Your right about the soft top in summer up in Tahoe. How could you not want to ride around topless on a glorious summer day in Tahoe at 80 degrees? However, Tahoe is also notorious for late afternoon thunderstorms that rise up from the Nevada desert, so a safari top is definitely on my list of "must haves." Not to mention, the winch. After being stuck many times in southern Utah without one, the one time I had one on my uncles old WWII jeep, taught me a valuable lesson. I'm sure I'll be seeking you out for info about what type is best when the time to purchase arrives. You may not believe this, but I've got into some pretty incredible places with my '65 VW bus and didn't have a problem. I remember, while serving in the military on NATO exercises in Germany, how the German Army went all over and through the notorious Black Forest mud with those VW vanagons and transports. Really made the American passion for bigness seem trite.
  • I just walked out on deal for an 01 Sahara that was in excellent shape. Only 41,500 miles on her and the idiots wanted to quibble over $400 bucks! The pre-approved loan I have has a Loan to Value ratio limit on it and they were $400 over and wouldn't budge. Gawd! I'm so pissed! It was such a good lil baby, too! Maybe they'll come around and give me a call. Geez, car dealers! :mad:
  • hey you guys, I just sold my 1998 wrangler with manual transmission, and I'm willing to buy another wrangler, what can you sugest me to buy? manual or auto transmission, considerating that I go to the beach and run in the sand, and sometimes also I go to run in mud, I have put in mind 6 cilinders, hard top and air condition, but cant decide if I want manual or auto, please let me know, also I'm going for a 2001 or 2002. please let me know what you all think.
    thanks :)
  • They met me half way on that Sahara! $200 dollars down and I pick her up tomorrow! Yehaw! Here's a pic of her. :shades:
    Just click on goldpanner above and click on Visit my Carspace!
  • Hi,

    Just got a 2008 Wrangler X last week and I am thinking of installing running boards or side steps. Don't want to do it myself (I'm gonna mess it up somehow. I know it!). Can anyone recommend a good place in south Jersey (Cherry Hill, Marlton, Medford areas) to get them installed?

    Thanks in advance.

  • I did a combo of both. The "on the lot" sticker said $19,999 marked down to $17,999. The "online sales" sticker said $14,999 - I paid $11,999 minus my trade in. So negotiating is even possible beyond the internet price.

    My secret weapon - said "no thank you" and picked up my purse twice. The first got me from the $18 sticker to $14, the second got me to $12. Then saying "no thank you" twice to the finance guy when he offered me the service plan got my interest rate down two more points plus the service plan down a grand (I'm spending a total of $8/month on the bumper-to-bumper plan).

    Good luck - just remember to *really* be willing to walk out the door!

  • My question is this to everyone.....
    I received the TPS Check engine code (as determined by AutoZOne testing). Sounds like TPS because of the skipping feel while driving.
    Changed out TPS and still have light and skip. Do you think I received a bad module.
  • Very impressive! Where did you get yours?

    I am shopping as well, hope I am as diligent.

    john in SoCal.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Changed out TPS and still have light and skip. Do you think I received a bad module.

    Did you reset the computer and clear the fault code after you changed the sensor? Also, check for damaged wiring to the TPS.
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    I'm looking to replace the vacuum actuator on the front axle of my YJ. The local dealer quoted me $250 for the part, but I also found the 4x4 posi lock system online for $165. Is there a cheaper OE source? Which option should I go with?


  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Ok, you guys have to check out Wantajt's video he just put up on his CarSpace page. It makes me nostalgic for my old CJ-5.
  • Good video after I turned the music off.
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