Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

Henry · September 2003

Hello, I have two competing opinions on whether you can put silicone on the weather stripping to help preserve it. Anybody out there got any inforamtion on this???

rjs200240 · September 2003

I bought the GM silicone for my weatherstripping, but after using it a few times I prefer a nice rubber protectant like Meguiar's #40. I'm sure silicone is better than nothing, though. But it is goopy and thick and collects dirt/dust.

leftyga1 · September 2003

The standard service is very minimal beyond the overall check-up. New plugs and wires is all it is. By the way, the previous owner did not replace the fuel filter regularly or at all. Consequence: the fuel pump failed/weakened. It's a $500 part and installs in the gas tank. Ouch!

blk97aurora · September 2003

leftyga1:

How do you conclude that not changing fuel filter caused fuel pump to fail? What is the regular interval for changing the filter?

kayaman420 · September 2003

Not sure how often it should be changed, but ive heard to have it done quite regularly. A dirty filter is the number 1 cause of pump failure. I seen cut out filters after 20,000 miles of use that were completly filthy. i change mine at least every 20K.

rjs200240 · October 2003

I kept meaning to post my impressions thus far of Zaino, but have been pretty busy. So here goes:

So far I like it, and it is quite reflective. I don't like how much of a pain it was to initially apply. I find the fact that it calls for three car washings to be a bit absurd. I also don't like how water doesn't fly off. It beads a ton of tiny beads, but they don't move even at 50+mph.

I like how reflective it is, and I like that the car always looks very shiny. I like how little of it gets used per application, and application of the actual polish is quite easy.

If I didn't have any Blackfire and didn't have any Zaino right now, but had my experiences with them, I'd buy the Blackfire. If I could just buy Z5 and maybe the QD and still be able to apply Zaino properly, then maybe I'd go for it. The ZFX at $20 or Z1 (which does no protecting) for $10 just to enable the Z5 or Z2 to be applied is a bit of a turnoff. So is the requirement to wash with Z7 then QD with Z6 prior to applying the polish. I guess I don't care for the expensive system thing.

That said, I already bought it all and Zaino is really a very nice product. I might toss a few Blackfire coats on over the winter just to see.

I also find Meguiar's Final Detail QD adds a lot of gloss to the Zaino, and really adds some red to the reflection. Plus, it gets those beads of water zooming off the paint. Some Z5 and Final Detail would suit me just fine. Though, Blackfire and Final Detail is pretty amazing too.

rjs200240 · October 2003

I figured I'd put up some picts of the detailing supplies I own. If for no other reason than it is neat to see pictures.

rjs200240 · October 2003

Well, I went over the whole interior and also all the exterior weatherstripping. I used Meguiar's #40, Lexol leather cleaner, and Pinnacle leather conditioner.

Hey Steve, remember a while back some discussion about what was leather and what wasn't? Ive been scrutinizing it more lately, and it appears that there are parts of the seats that arent actual leather. You can tell a difference in the texture if you look real close. The real leather has very soft creases and texture, and the fake leather has very defined texture. It does seem that any piece that doesnt wrap to the front isnt real leather.

It's actually kind of nice as it means I don't have the problem of getting leather conditioner on the center console when trying to get the sides of the lower cushion. I find it a lot easier to dress the seats now...

I've started applying #40 with a Q-tip to the little bits of rubber that are around the exterior of the side windows, and the tiny little bit around the door handle fixures. I figure they get the worst of the sun and weather, so they could probably stand a bit of help. Anyone else do this?

Also Steve, how was the #16? I just ordered up the Meguiar's October special, and decided to toss in a tin of #16 to try as well...

aurora5000 · October 2003

is just parts that touches your bottom or back for the most part. I could be wrong. When I run out of current products, I will try #16. Using the OTC Dark Red bottle of Cleaner/Waxer. I am using my gallon of #51 Final Detail with no problems.

Thanks,
Steve

rocket3_50 · October 2003

Here's a way to tell that I read about on these boards: Push your thumb against the material enough to make an indentation. Look closely - -if it dimples smoothly, it's not leather. If it forms tiny little wrinkles or crinkles, it's leather.

leftyga1 · October 2003

blk97aurora:
It seemed to be the original fuel filter, given its old stock number. The mechanic suggested every 30K to replace, I believe. Having the fuel filter clogged requires the pump to work harder and thus wear out. Hope this helps.

rjs200240 · October 2003

Well, I did my 4th oil change on the 'Roara. I used up my last AC Delco Ultraguard filter. Should I search for more, or just go back to the Duraguard?

I also got a magnetic drain plug for about $3. It is the GM replacement. I think it is aluminum instead of the iron of my original one. It feels lighter, and there were a bunch in the bag when I bought it. None of them were sticking together. Yet it will easily lift my original drain plug. I was pretty surprised by how strong the magnet was.

I've been using 7.5 quarts since the last change, and over about 7,000 miles and about 10 months, I didn't have to add any oil at all. Though, it was probably about .5 quarts down when I changed it.

garnes · October 2003

The two oil analysis tests that I had done were with a M1 filter and a AC Duraguard. The dirt was 4 ppm and 1 ppm respectively. Both were about 3000 mostly city miles - the duraguard actually had a bit more mileage on it. Both had very low amounts of wear metals in the oil too. I think the condition of the K&N filter was about the same for both tests. I'm not holding this up as a scientific study, but I think the duraguards are just fine.

rjs200240 · October 2003

That's right, I'd forgotten you'd done tests against the M1 filter. I think the Duraguard is a good filter too. I might just call local GM dealers, see if anyone has some Ultras, and if not, just go back to the Duraguard. The Ultras are just cool. They are black like the ZR-1 oil filters (which were not Ultraguards). I dunno... it's just cool.

rjs200240 · November 2003

I know a few of you were eager about my results, so I figured I'd post a little wrap-up. Yesterday I threw some Blackfire on top of the Zaino, and I doubt I'll go back. Driving around last night, and today looking at houses, the Aurora just looked so awesome. It hasn't looked that reflective, deep, and metallic in a while... not since the last time I'd put Blackfire on it...

Zaino was very reflective, beaded water very well, and likely would last a long time (it has been holding up just fine since I put it on).

However, it had very low gloss. Reflections have very little red in them. I could probably take some reflection photos where you couldn't even tell my car is red. To me, that's not a good thing. It's a lack of depth/gloss. Also, water didn't bead off the car well. It beaded up a lot, but never rolled off. And the car seemed to crud up more. Unless it's just been a yuckier time of year, it seems that stuff like bits of grass and other crud stick to the paint more. These things would have come off during a wash with Blackfire, but needed claying or bug & tar products to remove with the Z.

I might throw some Z coats on Blackfire in the future seeing as how I have the stuff, but I doubt I'll use it much anymore. It is just too expensive and finicky (when you factor in the Z7 and Z6 you have to use to "prep" for subsequent coats), doesn't have a look I prefer (the reflection is awesome, but I want some gloss!), and the prep seems counter-intuitive to getting a nice finish. Dawn washings seem mildly harmful, and certainly dull the appearance. Blackfire can go over anything and last just fine. Plus, I can use any car wash and such when applying subsequent coats.

Final Detail provided a temporary solution to water not flying off the car, and to the lack of gloss, but a coat of Blackfire is now providing a much longer-term solution.

Zaino is definitely a good product, but it just isn't what I want from a product. Blackfire is. I'm also a bit eager about the pro version of Meguiar's new NXT that's coming out. It sounds a lot like Blackfire to me, which is definitely a good thing...

Oh, I picked up some #16 along with some more Medallion Premium Paint Protection, and look forward to trying the #16 out soon. I'm not sure if I'll try it on the Aurora, or stick with Souveran as the topper of choice. But #16 sounds like a good product, especially if it can outlast #26 and provide more shine. It smells like crayons...

blk97aurora · November 2003

Does anyone have experience replacing Classic rear air shocks with after-market brand? I can buy a pair of Gabriel Hi-Jackers for $88 including shipping vs. ~$250 for ACDelco replacements. Is the extra $$$ worth it for OEM? I want to maintain the air adjustable ride control.

Henry · November 2003

This inforamtion is about 2 1/2 years old. However, at teh time I replaced my shocks the non-GM parts guy recommended the GM REAR shocks because of the load leveling feature. The reason he gave me is that the GM shoucks would not require any adaptors to hook up to the load leve system. Whether this is an issue now I do not know. Since the guy was telling me not to buy his product, I believed him at the time.

The fronts can be any brand you choose. I have KYB and I believe some folks have gone with Monroe.

You may also want o serch this board and the main board for shocks. This question has come up before.

Just my 2 cents.

95mushroom · November 2003

vanchevrolet.com has them for $102 each. not too bad..

blk97aurora · November 2003

Henry and 95mushroom,

Thanks for the information. I have already replaced front struts with Monroe SensaTracks. I would have preferred KYB or Koni, but they have nothing for '97s.

VanChevrolet is the place I found lowest price, and I will most likely buy there for the rear shocks as well as a fuel pump.

autobahn95 · November 2003

I replaced the rear shocks on my '95 with the AC Delco's in June of last year.
Go to www. yoursource-autoparts.com and order a pair of 504-96 shocks. For the PAIR, they were $95.00. You can't beat that price. I also put the KYB's up front, they are incredible.
good luck.
Pete

garnes · December 2003

OK, I had another one done. This one with 3800+ miles on the oil and I drove most of it with my K&N filter that I cleaned and re-oiled with the K&N kit. I use M1 oil in the engine.

The results were pretty much the same as the other two. Extremely low wear metals and the dirt was very low too. The engine is just not wearing appreciably at all. According to these results, it should perform and operate like new for a very long time. Way past 100k and I think if it goes like this - 200k will be nothing for like new performance.

However - one weird note. The iron numbers were about the same as before - very low. I thought the magnetic drain plug would skew it next to nothing, but it really doesn't seem to do much. All other wear metals were way down next to nothing, so I kind of doubt I could have had much larger iron wear numbers but not see any increase in any other wear metal.

So, maybe the magnetic drain plug just pulls a very small % of what is in suspension or just grabs some particles that would have been filtered or just remain on the bottom of the pan anyway. Who knows?

The plug had very little material. It was more like a gray film - not really any particles you could identify. Still - it can't hurt.

One good thing, I'm more confident on the performance of a K&N filter that's been reconditioned. They really are washable and reusable without a decrease in filter efficiency.

garnes · December 2003

oh - I'm pretty sure that going less than 5000 miles on the M1 oil is a waste. I'll start going longer. After almost 4000 miles it's still clean and the viscosity and all is right where it should be. Great stuff.

rjs200240 · December 2003

You don't go by the oil life monitor?

Yeah, I wouldn't really be surprised if the plug didn't do much. Maybe it just grabs the larger particles. But it can't hurt.

Thanks for the info on your testing.

95mushroom · December 2003

rjs, I thought the oil monitor actually had nothing to do with the actual codition of the oil, it just went by how far you've driven???

Henry · December 2003

It is just a milage counter

hammen2 · December 2003

My extended warranty company would reject any oil-related warranty claim (think: virtually anything engine) if I went more than 4k miles between oil changes. This is why I won't put synthetic in it - a waste of $$$.

--Robert

rjs200240 · December 2003

Is not just a mileage counter. I've posted up some technical articles from GM before, but don't want to go search for them. Basically, on reset, a counter is set for a certain number of engine revolutions. As the engine rotates, the counter is decremented. There are factors that apply a multiple to the amount decremented, so that each engine rotation when the oil is cold or whatever decreases the counter more than each rotation when it is warmed up. There were other factors as well, but I can't think of them.

Because your car goes more miles per engine revolution on the highway, highway driving means more miles before a change (though not necessarily more revolutions before a change). So you could idle your car all the way through the engine life counter, whereas a set-mileage change interval could never capture that (since cars don't have hourmeters or whatever they are called).

The oil-life monitor is more advanced than you think, and certainly more advanced than a 3,000 mile interval no matter what. In addition to the oil-life monitor, you should change your oil before it gets to be more than 12 months old.

garnes · December 2003

Like hammen2 indicated about the warranty - I'd go shorter intervals so as not to void the warranty. However, since warranty gold is in trouble, I filed a dispute with the credit card company, and got most of my money back. So, I'll be going more by the monitor - probably change it when it's down below 20% or whatever.

I don't drive a ton of miles so it'll probably end up being a twice a year thing - spring and fall.

rjs200240 · December 2003

As it happens, I just got the MyGMLink newsletter in email, and it had an article about the oil life monitor (though it is more simplistic than the one I posted before):

Let's see, my last oil change was about three months ago; or no, it was 2,700 miles ago, I think. Where did that windshield reminder sticker go?

   Relax. Engineers have introduced technology designed to help those of us who have trouble keeping track of exactly when the last oil change was. And it can help save time and money, while helping protect the environment by reducing waste. The GM Oil Life System is already included on many new GM vehicles and the number is constantly increasing.
  The Oil Life System serves as an electronic reminder that constantly calculates oil life based on a number of variables. The factors taken into account include: engine speed, operating temperature, load or rpm variance, and period of operation at any given load and temperature. The idea is to recommend an oil and filter change when it's actually needed, rather than by some predetermined interval.
  Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. Remember, for the oil life system to work properly, it must be reset every time the oil is changed.
  The oil change reminder will not detect dusty conditions or engine malfunctions that may affect the oil. Also, the oil monitor does not measure how much oil is in the engine. So be sure to check the oil level and condition on a regular basis.
  With the Oil Life System, there's no need to adhere to the old adage of changing your oil every three months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first, unless you forget to reset the system or you live in an unusually dusty environment.
  If you change your oil on the "old schedule" that could easily be four or five oil changes a year. At an average of $25 per change, even if the system only eliminates two of those changes, that's $50 per year multiplied over the life of your vehicle. Not to mention the time saved and inconvenience avoided.
  Also, by reducing the number of oil changes, you'll be helping the environment by limiting the amount of engine oil that is used as well as the amount of oil that needs to be discarded properly.
  For drivers who may not use their vehicles often, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is needed for over a year. However, GM service recommends that you have your oil and filter changed once a year and reset the oil life system at each change. If you don't reset the system, your reminder light may stay on.
  To find out more about the GM Oil Life System, consult your Owner Manual. Remember, there are Owner Manuals available online at mygmlink.com. If you have any other questions regarding the oil life system, phone or visit your GM dealership service center.
MyGMLink News vol 1, issue 5; article by Mark H. Stowers

blk97aurora · December 2003

Robert,

I did not know about MyGMLink until I read your last post. I just registered. Thank you.

mike98c · December 2003

Rejected my car when I put the vin in last year because car is registered in G.M. database as having been destroyed! Oh well I'll just console myself with all the money I saved on the initial purchase because it was declared a total loss (flood) before I picked it up from the insurance company through one of their brokers I used to do business with a couple years ago. 137,000 miles and no unusual electrical problems aside from the flashing lights syndrome last year.

garnes · December 2003

I'm looking for a little help on trying to get an idea of how much iron (or other wear metal) is present in my used oil. Simply put, if the results are 7 parts per million, how many grams is that for 7.5 quarts of oil total?

I think it would be interesting and give a "feel" for what is going on and also give an idea of how much iron (by comparison) is found on the magnetic drain plug.

The way I see it, 7 ppm is probably by weight. So is it as easy as (7/1,000,000 x weight of 7.5 quarts of oil)? If it's a volume thing (don't think so) then the specific gravity would come into play I guess.

Just a guess trial calc. - 7/1,000,000 x 12 lbs of oil??? (based on a guess on the s.g. of oil) x 454 grams/pound (easy number to remember) = about .04 grams of iron. That's about 1/20th of a paper clip I think - well .05 would be.

If that's in the ball park or at least in the park's parking lot, I can say that what I see on the magnetic plug would need to be multiplied by a huge number (I'm guessing 100's at least) to equal a chunk/piece of metal the size of 1/20th of a paper clip.

So maybe the plug magnet doesn't really do much or effect oil analysis results.

Any thoughts??? I hope I have not opened myself up to another "doh" moment. But I'm curious.

stickking1 · December 2003

Hey Mike, just a note...I had the same kind of problem with MyGM rejecting the VIN for my car. I sent them an E-mail explaining the problem and got a response the same day! I had to fax in a copy of my registration card and my address info, they entered it into the database, and I was all set. The level of service really surprised me.

-Brian

mike98c · December 2003

I'll give that a try.

mike98c · December 2003

I wonder how the new Meguiars (Nxt Generation) wax will compare to the Blackfire and some of the other sealants after reading an e-mailed article about it. Has anyone else heard it reviewed?

rjs200240 · December 2003

Yeah, I heard a lot about it over on Autopia.org and on showcargarage.com. It sounds pretty cool. It actually sounds a bit like Blackfire, which IMO is a good thing.

mike98c · December 2003

I looked it up on those sites. It sounds likeitmay replace my putting a base coat of Carnuba wax on to deepen the gloss of the silver in the color coat.

mike98c · December 2003

I should replace my KEYBOARD with its sometimes I work, sometimes I won't spacebar first I suppose!

stickking1 · January 2004

Did you get an Email about the little mini-auction that they held on Showcargarage? For a bottle of NTX. I got on this morning and had just missed it by a few hours. It went for $50 bucks. Now the Ebay auctions were out of my reach, but I think I might have paid 50 dollars for a crack at this stuff.

95mushroom · January 2004

Hey guys,
Just picked up the new Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. Its suppose to be for walls to remove dirt and crayons so I thought it would be excellent for the door sills and lower door panels (above the carpet stuff) since those get beat-up pretty by passengers who don't care for the Aurora as much as us diehards.

All I could say is WOW!! I now have like new door sills and doors. It got everything off, even the All-Armor Multi-Purpose stuff wouldn't. Works on the black inserts too.

Though it is made of foam and wears quickly and you have to clean up the juice up it really works.

rjs200240 · January 2004

Well, I tried this stuff out. Not on the Aurora yet, but the results on the Regal have me pretty anxious about trying it...

stickking1 · January 2004

You beat me to the pictures! I have a bunch from working on it this weekend, but my weather was really cruddy, so once I took it out of the shop, it ceased to look nice.

javidogg · January 2004

Hey nice looking Aurora, that thing came out dope.

Looking awesome.

What is that product once again and was it easy to use.

Peace.

rjs200240 · January 2004

That's our Regal, not the Aurora... My Aurora is red... :P

It is Meguiar's new NXT Tech Wax. It does apply easily and buff off easily. Hopefully it will last a few months as well.

Brian, let's see the picts!

javidogg · January 2004

I looked at the hood real quick, now I see it does look different from the Aurora.

Nice work though, I forgot you got the 2K Aurora.

Peace.

stickking1 · January 2004

First thing first...get the NXT out of that bottle and into an easier-to-handle container.

I used my Porter Cable to apply the NXT...I use it for everything, including Blackfire and I wanted to see how the NXT would react. The application was a breeze as well as the removal. I noticed a bit more residue on my microfiber towel after removing the wax than I normally see with Souveran or Blackfire...but I'll chalk that up to my first time using the stuff. I still have to get used to the right amount to apply and all that. I let it sit for about 45 minutes before buffing off, though I'm sure it was ready long before that.
Couple more pics:

The required hood shot

I wasn't all that impressed with the finish right when I was done, but the next morning it looked really great. The surface of the car looked like glass under water and it was super slick. I'm looking forward to some warmer weather when I can add the NXT to a complete detail session....all that I did here was wash and wax. Pretty good results considering the time spent.

Oh..I almost forgot...

Look it's Michigan in summer! Just had to throw it in there to keep my hopes up :P

rjs200240 · January 2004

Brian, that side shot looks really glossy! And the hood reflection is great! I never really got to feel the slickness later on the Regal. It got dusty, plus the car is currently parked outside and it's been about 15 degrees each morning. I didn't feel like having my fingers fall off just to feel the slickness increase...

I noticed it is a bit more dusty when wiping off, but I also noticed I used about 3/4 of an ounce to apply it, whereas with Blackfire I'd probably use about 1/4 of an ounce. And Souveran... I dunno, how much is 1,000,000 applications divided by 8 ounces?

The Regal was a bit dusty yesterday, much like the Aurora is (I'll wash it today probably with some QEW). Anyway, with a bit of dust on it, it looked similar in gloss and shine to the Aurora which has Blackfire and #16 on it. Considering how much time I spend babying the Aurora, and how little I did to the Regal, the fact that they look pretty similar (well, until you catch the Regal in the right light and see the swirls, dings, chips, etc) is a pretty good testament to the way NXT performs. I look forward to trying it on the Aurora, and I hope it lasts a good bit and beads/sheds water the way Blackfire does. I wonder how Blackfire would look on top of NXT? I really love the surface properties of Blackfire.

stickking1 · January 2004

Yeah, I agree Bob. It certainly was a time saver in the long run. I spend a lot more time when I go for the Blackfire than I did with the NXT. I'm looking forward to an entire detail of Swirl-Free, #3, and NXT...then maybe a layer of Souveran.

One of the guys on Autopia mentioned doing AIO and then a layer of NXT. I'd really like to try a round of AIO/SG and then hit it with NXT. It has a very strong scent...reminds me of the Meguiar's shampoo, and makes me think there are some cleaning properties in the product, so if that's true, I'm not sure how well it would layer. I may be wrong though...it might have zero cleaning capabilities and just smell very strong. Can't wait to find out!

Henry · March 2004

Okay, I finally stood there as the mechanic poured the 8 quarts of oil into the car for my oil and filter change. We then looked at the dip stick and it was half-way between the second and the middle line marker on the dip stick. I have now made a mental note that this is the FULL marj for my 95 Classic Aurora.

Do you other Classic owners have the same FULL line on your cars? In other words, at 8 qurts we know the car is full of oil. What does your dip stick read? -- Henri

rjs200240 · March 2004

Henri, the capacity is actually 7.5 quarts... On my car it is on the bottom half of the ok part. When it gets down to the actual low line, I'll put in 1/4 to 1/2 a quart.

Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

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Oldsmobile Aurora: Care &amp; Maintenance

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Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance