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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair
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Comments
Over the years, I've owned 50+ cars since 1962, fourteen MBs among them, and nearly as many Toyotas. At the moment, our one and only car is an '02 C240. Apart from a couple of minor problems early on [wheel alignment and a differential leak] that were competently handled by the dealer, we have been very happy with this car. But I would never compare its long-term costs and reliability outlook with anything from Toyota [I am much less impressed with Mazda in this regard].
Nothing from the Japanese in this price category combines the ride, handling, refinement, safety, and overall touring competence of a C or a BMW 3er. But you have to be prepared for the fact that it will be a higher maintenance companion than its Japanese counterparts.
Frankly, if this issue is really important to you, and you can afford a C230SS, you should be looking at the Lexus IS and the Infiniti G as well. Both ride too firmly for my taste, but then so does the C230 vs our C240, so they are more direct competitors for you than they were for me. The IS is tighter inside than the C, but the G has more room, if that is a tie-breaker.
As for "going downhill", in my VERY extensive experience, the difference in reliability between the Germans and Japanese has always been there, and probably always will be, mostly because of the extreme differences in philosophy at the corporate level. The Japanese are fanatical about managing supplier relationships and fixing problems before they get out of hand, and the Germans leave too much of that responsibility to their subcontractors [Bosch, Siemens, etc.], who don't have to deal with the end customer.
You buy German because the cars are different and you want the difference enough to accept this fact of life...if not, stick with Toyota or Nissan or Honda.
I love the designs from MB, BMW, and Audi and I loved the reliability of my old Toyota Supra. I'm willing to accept that these German cars aren't quite as reliable as Toyotas, but I just don't want to buy some POS car that needs an engine rebuild at 50,000. My supra didn't really need any non-maintenance work until it was near 120K.
The MB C230SS is going to be for my fiance. Actually, I might wait out for the 06 or 07. Rumor has it, they'll have a completely redesigned model. My Supra blew a head gasket at about 155K then I bought an 03 Mazda 6s. I also knew that Mazda's didn't have the reliability of Toyota/Honda/Nissan, but I liked it for other reasons.
What type of problems have you faced with your older MBs, BMWs or Audis? Minor stuff like starter, alternator, radiator, cooling, or bigger things like engine/transmissions?
No, the problems that have built this air of "crisis" that you read about are nearly all electronics. The Germans went through a period where their engineers decided that because something was "possible", it ought to be put into production. The result was a series of in-the-field failures that have been a lesson for all concerned. I deliberately avoided any car from a German firm that smacked of reaching too far, too fast - our C240 does not have memory seats [the seat/key interface was a big bugaboo], a cell phone, a nav system, or any of the doo-dads that people seem to think must be in a car these days. BMW has come to grief over their infamous integrated control system, that nearly everybody in the world hates trying to use, and which fails at a high rate.
If you keep the car simple, after the usual debugging period of the first couple of thousand miles, its long-term prospects for being solid and strong are still good. In this respect, as the miles pile on, MBs still feel more rock-like and quiet than anything from the Japanese except maybe a Lexus LS [that car has been an extraordinary piece of work from Day One].
My 1982 Supra was a very satisfying car - but it got traded for an '84 MB 190E...in the end, I've always wound up migrating back to MB.
I put BMW [depending on the model, though] on a roughly equal footing with Mercedes....but not VW/Audi. Their cars have been even more trouble-prone, and there it can get serious real fast, because the dealers [especially VW dealers] have too often shown they are not up to the task.
If you keep a Mercedes properly maintained [which is actually no more demanding than doing the same for a Japanese car, but more expensive by a factor of 2x], the reward is a car that will feel good many miles down the road. They don't make rattletraps, as a rule. But you pay a big price for neglect if you try to take shortcuts with maintenance.
This is my first posting so please be kind!
I recently purchased a '99 c230 Kompressor and have been experiencing a tremendous amount of problems with the gas tank. When I go to certain gas stations to fill up, the gas hose will automatically shut off while I'm filling up. I am assuming that the auto shut off senses that the gas level is where it needs to be and turns itself off. The gas is no where NEAR full, not even 1/8 tank! I have to run it extremely slow and takes upwards of 15 minutes to fill a tank completely. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there anything I can do? PLEASE HELP, MY SANITY DEPENDS ON IT!
I just bought a '99 c230 Kompressor' and the driver side window stopped rolling up or down, Is there any setting that got turned on , etc.
Also, I am looking into putting in a CD changer but heard about FP limitations, Can any one elaborate on it.
Thanks
Also, I have the java (light tan) leather interior. I use the Meguiar's gold class cleaner/conditioner for regular cleaning. But does anyone have suggestions on what to use and & how to clean the nitty gritty crevices in the leather, like on the armrest and steering wheel? I am talking about those natural grains in the leather...can't seem to penetrate into those spots and it's starting to look kind of dirty.
I also had the brakes changed during my last visit, they told me there was 20% left until it hit the sensor. Did I get it changed too early, I mean it's only at 20k miles. They also had to change the power steering pump because it was making a whining noise when I turned. Luckily it was under warranty. Anyone else had this problem? I also have heard a click coming from the passenger dash. I thought it might have been the passenger side mirror or seats, but the dealership said it was probably the "step motor" and replaced it. It still makes the noise. It's really just a low-sounding click and I will hear it maybe once during my hour commute. I remember when they gave me a loaner 2004 C230 hatchback, I also heard the click, so I'm wondering what this could be, and whether or not I should take it back for the same problem.
Any input would be appreciated...thanks!
Re: the leather a lot of folks use Lexol with good results it may be worht a shot.
On the brakes, it does seem a bit early but you never know what the car was driven like before you got it. I left mine til the sensors kicked in because it is not at all uncommon for MB to need rotors at the same time. They are 'soft' and often need to be changed so I figure why do it early as the reason to change pads early was to save the rotors in my experience.
JR
I will try the Lexol and will wait till the sensor comes on next time for the brakes. Dealers are always recommending something to be done earlier than necessary, but I figure the car will let you know.
Glad to be of help.
JR
Several of these repairs have been repeated 3 or 4 times because they continue to fail. The thing that worries me is that when the warranty expires, this thing is going to get really expensive.
Anyone has running into this problem? I knew there was another C230 that had same problem.
on mine, the right side is slight up and is so easily noticeable.
takeoutboy
- Gas tank was empty, but the gauge showed I still have half tank of gas, which caused the car stopped in the middle of the high way. A couple of days ago, after I refill the gas, the gauge showed I have only 1/4 gas.
- If I open the driver side door by pulling the handle from inside, sometimes, it opens one door, sometimes it opens all four doors.
The above are the existing problem. Anyone have the same experience?
On my 02 C230K Coupe, my smartkey range is usually over 100ft when approaching from the "way down the row" (10 o'clock position).
When I have to park in the remote lot, I walk up on the car from behind, but don't typically bother to trigger it nearly as early. But it still easily has 30-50ft of range.
The dealer tried to blame the tint put on rear glass window. After the tint was removed and problem still persisted...
If the tint aftermarket, it was a convenient excuse for a lazy dealership to try to welch out on. I hope you're pressing them to pay to have the window re-tinted since its removal didn't solve the problem as they had claimed.
-hh
would a 99 C280 Sport with 49k miles be a bad decision? can get an extended warranty though my credit union. price is $16k.
i will post in Maint and Repair forum too.
looking to get a solid car that won't nickel and dime me, with a little style and tank-like build quality built in
looking at Saab 9-5's too.
Thanks!
Buy a used MB because you like the way the car behaves on the road compared to the competition, but never under the illusion that it will be a car that is low-cost to own. If you want low-maintenance, you must buy Japanese.
Personal recommendation from experience? Look for a good used Acura RL or TL, or Lexus ES if you want something in this neck of the woods that will be less expensive to maintain. Or stick with the obvious, like a 2-year-old Accord. [I'm assuming FWD is OK since a Saab is apparently OK].
Understand, there is nothing inherently wrong with a '99 C280 at the price and miles you mention....just keep your expectations realistic about maintenance costs down the line, warranty or no warranty.
but, the Accord has its own set of reliability problems. i have now decided that if whatever i own is going to be in the shop, might as well enjoy what i have
that said, i wouldn't want a 99 C280 if there are huge known issues. is the engine/transmission in the 99 C280 good and sturdy? what should one look at on a used model? anything out of the ordinary, or just basic car stuff? anything C280 specific?
thanks for the reply!
Otherwise, electronic gremlins are always the prime suspects in these cars, but the '99s were pretty well sorted in this respect - this is the 6th [and next-to-last] year of the W202 body, so there shouldn't be any big issues.
I've owned 4 Accords and they've all been trouble-free [absent the usual wear and tear as the miles pile up]...same with all but one of our 10+ Toyota products.
In general, European cars tend to need more "care and feeding", which you very well may consider to be being nickeled and dimed.
I think that its just a different design philosophy: many old USA and contemporary Japanese cars are built with the idea that you could abuse them for a long time with nothing bad happening...but they then would need a lot of work to be pulled back.
The difference seems to me to be in the 3-7 year time period since it was new. For a Euro car, you very well might need a "major" system here or there worked on which would be a rarity on a Japanese car. The difference is that you're not going to have the "Toyota Phenominon" where after many months of zero costs, you're suddenly hit with 3 failures in a row that sum to $4K within two credit card billing cycles.
looking at Saab 9-5's too.
My car prior to my MB was a Saab. It was a disaster, and the first car that I've ever gotten rid of with less than 50K miles. It was a great car...when it ran. Between that and a heavy dose of Dealer Service Department Bullhockey over why the failures were occurring, I'll never recommend that car brand to anyone.
If you're nevertheless still thinking about a 9-5, recommend that you go find out which reskinned Opel (GM Europe) it is, and check on the Opel's reliability in conjunction with the 9-5. Just remember that a lot of the JD Power quality junk is just that: junk: the things that they measure such as "Initial Quality" are generally meaningless after the vehicle's a year old. What you really want to know is the vehicle's reliability at 4-6 years after it was built.
-hh
-It's almost an essential purchase if you plan to keep the car beyond the original warranty. Any significant failure can run up repair bills that can exceed $1000 at the drop of a hat.
-Absolutely DO NOT just buy the warranty from your selling dealer without shopping around and getting competitive bids. The warranty is like anything else in this business: there is a suggested MSRP, a dealer cost, and a markup. Many dealers will settle for less profit to build a business in the warranties. Call or e-mail every dealer in the MBUSA website until you get the price you want. [In our case, our selling dealer agreed to match the lowest price I could find, which came from the dealer in Chico CA - the F & I mgr there has made a career of discounting the extended warranty and selling a gazillion of them to savvy internet buyers.]
Understand, I'm only referring to the official MBUSA factory-backed extended warranty, not the dozens of third-party warranties sold by brokers and others.
Our 7/100 extension for the '02 C240 was discounted at least 20% from the going price at the time.
If you wait until 366 days after the car goes into service, then you have to look for one of the many 3rd party warranties out there that are not sponsored by MBUSA - dealers generally sell them, too, and the internet is teaming with them. But the factory extension has to be purchased within 12 months of the original new-car sale....you can't wait until the end of the new-car warranty, as you can with some other makes.
Word of advice to all new owners. Check your tires pressure!!!
I always suspect electronics whenever a car refuses to run smoothly - the drivetrain computer comes to mind given your symptoms - but who knows without hooking it up to the diagnostic system in the shop?
The problem is with the low beams...they are inordinately dim. High beams appear normal. The headlight problem light on the dash comes on momentarily after turning the lights on.
I am suspecting a faulty switch BUT have not checked any voltage drops at the headlights because the high beams are normal. I also do not see any difference in the low beam intensity when I pull the switch to the out (up) position although the internal switch light does illuminate.
Any inputs would be deeply appreciated.
Thanks......Dave
Other cars in the running are a 2001 Volvo V70 T5 58K miles, 2002 Outback Wagon 39K miles, 2001 Saab 9-5 Wagon 45K miles, and a new Mazda6 wagon. All are around $17-19K, Suburu a little less, the Mazda more, of course.
Not exactly a pretty sight for such a fine automobile.
I am told the motors are worn out (as a person with over 25 years of electro-mechanical and electronics experience lack of use will NOT wear out a motor!) and they need to be replaced. I think this is a latent design defect related to the pinch sensor as I understand this same problem abounds on other MB models of the 97-2000 vintage just by looking around my own neighborhood.
If this is a sensor related issue a trim-pot adjustment to the control board or the addition of an external resistor in parallel can recalibrate the circuit and save me a $1000 repair bill for an item that in now way should be worn out. As a quick reference, the front driver's window must go up and down 10 times a day and has never had any issues.
Any suggestions? Anyone have experience with MB USA supporting a repair/replacement? My call to MB USA was not handled well at all.
Thank you.
All opinions are very much appreciated.