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It's a great family car. The kids love it, it holds a lot and it parks and rides surprisingly well. I'd recommend it - it was really the only car out there that I wanted to buy and I looked at them all.
The bad reviews are both scary and helpful - you want to know what you're getting. But don't be scared away from the car itself, many of us are very happy Pac drivers.
I can't find diddly. Everything up front is the plastic fascia junk that will rip right off or even if the line is drawn tight against it.
I'm very reluctant to go w/o a tie down. I fear a canoe at highway speeds would rip the roof racks right off w/o a well anchored front line.
Any ideas?
I was told that Yakima would not make a roof rack for the Pacifica because they feared that the flimsy plastic rails, that the rack attaches to, are too weak. Hmmm... they may be right, those rails sure flex a whole lot! I am actually considering installing a second, stronger set of rails just inside of the factory ones. From my many years of experience carrying boats on top of cars, the weight is the least of the problem. The real problem is the wind forces and the forces from jolts on uneven roads that tend to break the roof racks. I had seen my share of racks breaking and blowing off at high speeds, sending unguided missiles at other cars.
As to tie downs on the front what I did was opened the hood and drilled and riveted a 1" strap loop to that aluminum hood re-enforcing channel material that runs parallel to the windshield. Used 4 rivets with washers. When not in use the loop is not visible. When intending to use it simply loop a tie-down rope through it and run it to the bow of your boat. Of course, if your canoe is very long, the bow might be forward of the rear hood opening. I would also like to use a rear tie-down but have not spent the time to figure out the best way to do it, yet.
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"#918 of 984 New Forumite by redwingsfan Dec 08, 2004 (5:43 pm)
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We recently bought our Pac pre-owned - 2004 with 10,150 miles on it - and took it into the local 5* to get it checked over this morning. (We bought it from a Nissan dealership who had taken it in trade and figured they wouldn't know jack about the Pac.) Issues I had them look at: Somewhere along the line the gas cap hadn't been tightened all the way so the MIL was lit when we got the car - Nissan didn't know how to check it out or reset it. I have been reading this forum for the last week and found out that the ATC control head problem wasn't just in ours (thank God) but others had it too. I speak of the intermittent fading out of the display rather than it being in the "delay" mode." Finally, the AWD badge on the liftgate was delaminating and looked out of place on an otherwise sparkling Pac.
We took it in and I waited for the phone to ring this afternoon. I was all ready for the "we couldn't duplicate the ATC display fade out" argument but to my surprise the Advisor said, "Got your car done. We replaced the ATC control head, replaced the AWD badge and reset the fuel pressure sensor. It's ready to go.....oh, and we also checked out the 2 current recalls, they were both completed by the previous owner."
After hearing horror stories about Chrysler dealers I was floored by this. Thus far the wife loves her Pac and it's all put back together correctly. Everyone's happy for once."
I made the above post on 12/08/04 and we've had no problem in the nearly 2 months since. The service at the Chrysler dealer was awesome and the wife still loves this car. I kind of get the feeling, after reading all the bitching, that this is an 80-20 type deal. 80% of the posts are "problem" posts where people vent frustration and 20% are posts where people are pretty darned satisfied. Personally, I don't take much stock in all the whining due to the reasoning above. I also wonder if the "crappy service" at Chrysler dealerships isn't actually a reflection of people's poor attitudes right back at them. Yelling and screaming at people doesn't make them want to help you out. People who would (as my Dad used to say) [non-permissible content removed] if they were hung with a new rope giving dealers attitude from the get go, merely exacerbates the problem.
Months later, still no problems. Now have 17,000 miles on the Pac and wife's still loving it. The local 5 * is great - no problems at all with anything we've wanted or needed.
It can be from any Chrysler dealer...........
As far as a rear tie down, the installation of a trailer hitch (although pricey for just a tie-down), would surely do the trick.......the Mopar hitch is almost hidden and a home job for a do-it -yourselfer as you are................
I'm more than a bit surprised Chrysler would show that picture in the MOPAR catalog of a kayak on top...I can just see a big wind + 70 mph plus large boat ripping the plastic channels right off the car. YIKES!
Is this for a speaker? Is there a speaker box that fits in this opening? To big of a hole not to fill even if I have to build my own box and amp for more bass.
Can anyone HELP me with this question?
2005 PAC
30,000
I wonder if a low profile subwoofer would fit under the front seat(s), there seems to be a fair amount of room under there....
2004 PAC
23,000
subwoofer - $90
Subwoofer mounting frame - $240
Amp - $425
What I have not been able to find out is whether or not that plug provides audio too. It seems to provide power but beyond that I don't know if the my stock radio (not the upgraded one), will provide audio to the subwoofer.
2005 silver, leather, sunroof
27500 miles sofar
Just like you, I have not had any problem with my 04 AWD (since February 04 with 13K on it). Thanks.
Sub off ebay: about $20 - $50
Amp: FREE (Rockford Fosgate 200a1)
Install amp: $70
Box: ?? parts and labor
Total: $130
beats the hell out of $300
At the same time I had the dealer replace the front seat belts (TSB 23-026-04) due to their occasional foul smell. To my surprise, the new belts had also been redesigned so that they latch much easier. I recommend all first year owners get this done.
Since mine is one of the first Pacificas built some of you out there may be under the impression that I should be having tons of problems. No so! I couldn't be happier. I feel I have had a minimum of inconveniences.
Over July 4 weekend a beautiful brand new gold Pacifica Limited was in front of me on Hwy 18 going up to Lake Arrowhead in California. I hope the owner checks in on this forum. As soon as we reached the steep grade, they fell way back. Don't be discouraged! You need to use AutoStick and put it into third gear the moment that your speed decreases on a grade. You can keep up with or pass most vehicles this way.
It took over eight months after I purchased my Pacifica before I saw another one in my county. It was therefore a good feeling when last month I got on the freeway and had a Pacifica both in front and behind me.
You are quite correct about the need to use lower gears in this car (or most cars). This one is rated 250 HP at 6400 RPM, which means that it probably puts out only about 125 HP at 2500 - 3000 where most people drive it. I had an owner complaining to me that his Pacifica was underpowered uphills and passing. When I asked him how high was he revving the engine, he said that never more than 3000 - 3500. No frigging wonder that he thinks is underpowered. It helps to know a bit about the power range of your engine! In uphill passing situations I will take my Pacifica all the way to the 6500 redline, unless it is at 4000 feet, 4 person and steep uphill, when the engine cuts out at 5300. I still have to report that to the service but, what's the hope of getting it fixed if they can not reproduce it? It will not do it with 2 people or at 1000 feet elevation. An other computer programming glitch that 99 percent of the drivers will never experience since they do not visit those rev ranges at those elevations.
4 valve engines all live in the higher RPM ranges, unless you have variable timing which allows better low-end operation as well. So, don't be shy, use the kickdown on passing or use the AutoStick. You'll feel the real power coming in around 4000 +. I had always revved all my engines throughout their rev ranges and NEVER had an engine failure or a worn out engine.
Also, after a drive, when I get out of the vehicle, I sense a burning smell coming out of the hood but when I look under the hood, everything looks okay but can sense a burning odor. Is the burning smell due to the vehicle being new or something else?
Thank you for any and all replies.
As to where the power is for passing and other types of acceleration:
There is always an argument as to which is more important, torque or HP. In all my many years of track racing various GT and Formula cars we always set our rev ranges to solidly nclude the peak HP, which is normally at the very high end of the rev range. We did that at the expense of completely missing the peak torque RPMs. If we shifted gears where the peak torque was the engine did not have nearly the power than what it did at peak HP. We did that sometimes, just trying to "cruise" home, for what ever reason. Lap times always dropped off significantly when doing so.
I think that you would feel significant power increase over 3900 rpm in the Pacifica. I do. Particularly so because as the wind resistance increases with speed it is the HP that is able to punch the car through the wall of air and keep it accelerating. Torque will not overcome wind resistance. The Pacifica, with its wide, tall, blunt profile, presents quite a bit of resistance to the winds. The figure I remember, off the top of my head, that in order to double your speed, you need to increase HP by a factor of 4. Thus you can do 50 MPH with 25 HP, 100 MPH with 100 HP and 200 MPH needs close to 400 HP, in well designed, aerodynamic cars..
An other thing to consider, while you are in passing mode is that you want to pull the engine into a high enough RPM range so that when you upshift into the next gear and your RPM drops, you are not falling out of your power range. Quite important during those single-lane passing manuvers.
It would be nice to have the full dyno (wheel) HP and Torque curves available for the Pacifica engine but, I have not been able to find one on the Net.
For engine break-in, the manual says that you need to dirve between 50 - 55 mph for 300 miles and after that, you can drive based on the speed limits. 300 miles is relatively a small figure for a V6 engine to have a good break-in as in my old car, the engine break-in was for 1000 miles. What do you all recommend? Thank you.
I agree with you, 1000 miles is a better bet than 300 miles and will not hurt a thing, no matter what anyone says ..........
Further, I changed my oil and filter at 1,000 miles just to start out fresh after the "break in " period....You don't know how long that oil has actually been in your Pacifica before you actually drove it home....Cheap insurance, I say........
My Pacifica (3.5 L) has 24,000 miles on it and does not use one drop of oil between 3,000 mi. oil changes...........
I have treated all of my new cars this way and have never had one that used any oil at all.
The one used car that I bought (11,000 miles) used oil the whole time I had it , even though I did 3,000 mile oil changes. Obviously, that car ( a Subaru) was not broken in the way I would have done it, and I added a quart of oil every 3,000 miles all the way until I sold it at 73,000 miles. I have never bought used since......
Just ordered a 2006 Pacifica Base fleet car. I plan to buy it after the lease which is 3 years down the road. I know I can add on Fog Lights, Roof Rack and Park Sense with no problems. Can EVIC, Dual Zone Automatic Temp. Control and Trip Computer be added on later? What other things could be added on that I might find useful?
Manual gear box died at about 70,000 miles, at the same time the engine was both leaking and eating oil (half of a gallon per 700 miles) ... ball joints with huge play even if replaced about every 2 years ... man ... nightmare car ...
I had stopped replacing the oil on that car because during the 3000 miles I was actually pouring into the engine about two times its oil capacity. Why replace the oil ? It was clean all the time !
Actually I think that the rear wheels were always disconnected from the brake system ! That devil's "brake limiter" was always completely out of adjustment, and I remember once driving at 10Km/h on ICE, opening the door, looking at the rear wheel and hitting hard the brake pedal. It continued to spin !!! On ice !
And these guys complain about Pacifica ...
Thank you for the info. Do you recommend changing the oil every 3000 miles or 3 months? The reason I ask is because I don't drive 3000 miles in 3 months as my work commute is just a mile away. For me, it will take about 5 - 6 months for 3000 miles. What do you recommend? Thanks.
I would use a really good oil (I use Mobil One synthetic) and just stick to the 3000 mile schedule, but I would not go over 6 months no matter what.
Hey, with a one mile commute, maybe a bicycle would be a good idea!
Take care pac1.
A dealership manager for one of the multi-brand, multi-city dealers had been transferred to the Chrysler dealer for about a year. He recently came back to the city and my cousin and he are friends and the cousin was considering getting a PAC. So he asked the manager/friend about the PAC and his advice: Stay away.
Daimler showed a Vision R at the 2004 Paris Motor Show and it apparently had a diesel V6 in it putting out 375-ish lb-ft of torque with ~8% better highway mileage than the Pacifica currently gets. This seems like a practical alternative. But ideally the PAC needs about a 20% boost in gas mileage or more to make it palatable. An even smaller diesel with an electric hybrid boost might be the ticket.
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/FirstDrives/articleId=106456