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Chrysler Pacifica

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  • pssimonpssimon Member Posts: 144
    BTW... I bought a left over 2008 Pacifica yesterday. Almost a third off of list! I'm a happy camper! It is a Limited AWD with almost everything in it. :)

    ---Paul
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    2. If they really do go under, Mr Obama said that the government would assume all warranties, so again, the warranties continue.

    As the owner of a 2005 Dodge Ram that's still under warranty (Cummins diesel 5 years/100K miles, all other systems 7 yrs/100K miles under Added Care Chrysler Service Contract [which extends the engine coverage as well to 7 years] - I'm at 49 months and 63K), my concern is not so much Obama backing the warranty... if there's no Chrysler LLC, there's no dealer network - exactly who will perform warranty repairs?

    I'm really pulling for the Fiat deal.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • pssimonpssimon Member Posts: 144
    Does anyone know whether switching to synthetic oil violates, in any way, the warranty on new vehicles? After my experience with synthetic oils in my 2004 Pacifica (mpg went up and frequency of oil changes went down) I was considering it for my new 2008.

    My concern is that since oil changes are less frequent, would I be in trouble with regards to following the prescribed maintenance schedule? I am changing my synthetic at about 7500 miles even though I was told I can go to 10K miles. The last thing I want to do is void a Lifetime Powertrain Warranty.

    thanks...

    ---Paul
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    Paul, if you are changing at 7,500 miles now, I would not go out to 10,000 miles. That is only a 25% increase in what you are doing now, and I can guarantee that you will have trouble with Chrysler ( Obama/Fiat Motors ?) if you ever have a powertrain warranty claim.

    I say this for two reasons:

    1. You are using a non-specified oil in your vehicle ( probably a minor issue, but a point nevertheless)......

    2.Because of the expense of the non-specified oil, you would understandably go further between oil changes. That's not a problem until you go beyond the maximum recommended interval. That's the problem here.........

    Chrysler/Obama/Fiat ( COF Motors) ?.......will come back and say you did not follow their recommended oil change , so they could deny your claim.

    Having said all this, it is a remote scenario, but it could happen, and if it did, that would more than wipe out all of the advantages of using synthetic oil on this vehicle and your next three cars for that matter.

    I stuck with fossil oil and 3-4,000 mile intervals for the reasons I just gave you......

    Just my opinion, Paul

    Random Thought: Given the fact that Fiat should shortly have a 35% stake in Chrysler, will the winged logo on my Pacifica come in red, white, and green ?
  • irismgirismg Member Posts: 345
    Oh, OK good! I hadn't read about the government-backed warranty program. I suppose there's a time limit on that? And who would perform the repairs - can we take the car to anybody now, instead of having to use the dealer?
  • irismgirismg Member Posts: 345
    I've always liked Pacificas - huge and expensive but very comfortable and love that wrap-around cockpit! Congrats on the deal!
  • pssimonpssimon Member Posts: 144
    Now that I just bought my 2nd Pacifica, my dealer is going away.

    Its going to be interesting now that Chrysler has put out the list of dealers to be axed. Sadly, the one I have been dealing with for 25+ years is on the list! I will miss them.

    Anyone else in that boat (losing a dealer they really become "attached" to)?

    NPR was saying Corporate was not even going to help the dealers they are axing with respect to inventory. They are leaving all the stock with the dealers for them to deal with, most likely to send to auction so they will get even less.

    I will surely miss my dealer. They sold my family about 8 cars, including 2 Pacificas.

    Anyone else feel the loss? :cry:

    Paul
  • jzalkinjzalkin Member Posts: 56
    Just agreed to and put a deposit on a new 2008 Pacifica with everything. Sticker was 37.5k and bought it for 25k OTD. We have a newborn and the wife is really excited as we got so many more options than we could have in any other car. Too bad the dealership is closing and this was the last 2008 left. Crazy deal - I'm sure we will never buy another car this good this cheap ever again.
  • joe29001joe29001 Member Posts: 48
    Switching to fake oil shouldn't violate the warranty, as long as it has the required certifications - and is changed per the recommended schedule.

    The manual states 3,000 miles between oil changes, period (regardless of oil quality). If you want to spend double or triple on oil, that's OK, but if you increase your oil change interval accordingly (to justify the cost), then you'll risk voiding the warranty.

    While it's your choice: if the warranty is important (and you don't like wasting money), then stick with regular oil at the recommended interval.

    If fuel economy improves, then it might help offset some cost, but would certainly fall short of justifying the expense.
  • jzalkinjzalkin Member Posts: 56
    Wife and I picked it up (Sig series) touring loaded for 25,000 OTD. We also got the extended warranty from Chrysler for $1,300 for 5/60,000. Happy with the car and purchase. Too bad our newborn is too young for the videos now.
  • familyman20531familyman20531 Member Posts: 1
    need to replace 4 Michelin® Energy™ MXV4® Plus with 70,000 miles on them. any ideas? Vendors say the MXV4 + are discontinued.
  • pssimonpssimon Member Posts: 144
    I put Goodyear's on my '04. I was going to get Fortera's but was told I can get the truck equivalent (spec for spec) by buying the truck version in the exact same size. These were Assurance Triple Treads. Check them out! They are the same tire and cost less. I will say they are a little noisier than the Michelin, but these tires should last forever (well, almost!). Check it out!
  • 4kings14kings1 Member Posts: 1
    I do not have an owners manual. Can anyone tell me what is recomended for oil changes and general up keep issues?

    Thanks
  • yogapassionyogapassion Member Posts: 1
    You will love your Pacifica! I just purchased one and love it. It was on the lot for $28,725 and I got it for $14, 900. Great deal huh? It's amazing.

    I like most the parking assistant that alerts you when something is behing the vehicle and the DVD player--my daughter thinks it is amazing to be able to watch Dora in the car.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I own a 2006 Dodge Caravan that I switched to synthetic oil after 10,000 miles and I just bought a 2007 PT Cruiser convertible that I will switch to synthetic oil after it reaches 10,000 miles. In both owner's manuals it says that under no circumstances should oil changes exceed 6 months or 6,000? miles. You need to check your owner's manual to make sure that you do not violate the terms of the warranty.
  • jzalkinjzalkin Member Posts: 56
    Congrats - a lot of car for little money. We are still a year or two away from the DVD being used for our son, but I may convince the wife to drive while I watch a movie in the back ;)
  • ipcguyipcguy Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2007 Limited and have an opportunity to get a 2008 cheap. They are both Limited models. What are the differences between them apart from the single exhaust on the '08. Thanks in advance
  • bthawkbthawk Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Pacifica. That makes a loud ticking noise during driving. It sounds like the speedometer cable. The faster I go the louder it becomes. The slower the quiter it is. Any thoughts would be great.
  • pacifica07pacifica07 Member Posts: 9
    edited April 2010
    I know this post is old, but just wanted to say that I have an 07 Pacifica and I started seeing the same problem (paint bubbling by the front emblem). Has anyone out there seeing this and if Chrysler had done any type of recall/fix on this. Thanks
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    Personally, I have not experienced any paint bubbling by the front emblem, nor have I seen many posts on that issue. I do have the Mopar translucent smoke gray "rock chip preventer" installed on the front lip of the hood, the front emblem is (visible) but screened behind the guard......

    Sorry to hear about that.....are you still under a warranty ?
  • pacifica07pacifica07 Member Posts: 9
    Fortunately the Corrossion warranty is still in effect for another 2 years (5 years warranty / 100,000 miles, so I will be heading to the dealer as a recomendation of Chrysler's HQ. I'll post the outcome.
  • pacifica07pacifica07 Member Posts: 9
    Just an update, went to Chrysler Dealer and they were "puzzled" about the problems, since there is no defect on the under side of the hood nor on the top (nicks or scratches). The problem is that the paint is blistering under the clear coat, but only on certain areas, exactly by the emblem, the weird part is that there is no blister on the "bullet groves" They asked me to take the car to their collision center for an estimate. Even the guy at the collision center didn't even know what would be causing this. Anyway, the estimate came to about $360 to paint the entire hood. Now I guess it will start the waiting time to see what the dealer is going to do as they told me they will call me today with the decision wether they'll fix it or not. If they make a fuss out of $400....Particularly that this is clearly a manufacturing flaw. Will keep you posted.
  • b25nutb25nut Member Posts: 202
    Last week marked my going into my 8th year with my Pacifica. Still get comments that it looks almost new. Still runs like a charm and still has the original brakes at 97,000 miles. The only repeat problem I have had is the air conditioner has stopped blowing cold air for the second time. My wife had to borrow it last week since six people wouldn't fit in her RX330. The memory system sure makes that an easy transition.
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    Hey b25nut,

    Congratulations on your 7 plus years.......Nice to hear from you again......I'm at 84,000 miles, with the original brakes also. Mine also looks "almost new"..........garage kept helps !

    Funny, I have never had a problem (knock on wood) with the AC, and I live in steamy Houston , TX !

    Mine also runs great, my repeat problem was front end clunks, but I have already chronicled on this site how I finally solved that annoyance.........

    Again, b25, congratulations, and keep posting!
  • 2008_pacifica2008_pacifica Member Posts: 3
    good day, can somebody help me to locate a full loaded and equiped 2008 pacifica under 60K miles and under 12 000$.... please email or reply to me. thanks for your assistance.
  • jtg61jtg61 Member Posts: 43
    You won't get the lifetime powertrain warranty buying a used Pacifica. Don't bother.
  • sochsoch Member Posts: 11
    I have a fully loaded PAC touring 2006 24K miles only, willing to sell.
  • 2008_pacifica2008_pacifica Member Posts: 3
    a 2006... depend how much you want to sell it for...
    do you have any pictures? what is the color inside and outside? leather or cloth?
    and finally where are you located... and do you honestly have any issues.. because there are several problems with pacifica especially the first ones... (2004 to 2006). thanks for your quick answer.
  • 2008_pacifica2008_pacifica Member Posts: 3
    hi,

    what do you mean? i should not consider being an used one?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    ...to offer your vehicle for sale in the forums. These are not classified ads.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • pssimonpssimon Member Posts: 144
    I have hit 30K miles and am looking into acquiring a Service Contract. I want to get a REAL Chrysler Service Contract. I know there are all sorts out there, but I want the real thing.

    I know that the contract is a negotiable item. I have called different dealers in my area and get different prices for exact same contract.

    Has anyone purchased a contract from ChryslerWarrantys.com? They claim they are the real thing and are a couple hundred less than the local dealers.

    Any thoughts? If anyone knows any other source for a real Chrysler Service Contract that offers a good deal, please let me know.

    I am looking for the $100 deductable, Max Care, Lifetime contract. I have a 2008 AWD Pacifica.

    Many thanks in advance...

    ---Paul in Southern NJ
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    Paul,

    You are right in wanting the real thing in an extended warranty. The question is: What is the Real Thing?

    Prove me wrong, but my gut feeling is: ChrylerWarrantys.com may not be the same thing as the local dealers. They claim they are, but they are not the ones actually doing the warranty work for you, your local dealer is.

    Bottom line: If you have a local Chrysler dealer that has dealt fairly with you so far, I would eat a couple of hundred dollars just to have their undivided attention when the day comes to use that extended warranty................

    Good Luck,

    Brooks in already hot Houston, TX................

    P.S. I do not work for Chrysler or anything automotive related at all.......
  • b25nutb25nut Member Posts: 202
    Nothing from Chrysler indicates if or when the timing belt on the 3.5 should be changed. I'm at 98K. Has anyone changed theirs?
  • pssimonpssimon Member Posts: 144
    I have 166K miles on my 2004 and I haven't changed mine..... does that help?

    ---Paul in Southern NJ
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    edited May 2010
    b25nut,

    I would replace your timing belt now, unless you plan on selling soon. ALL timing belts break eventually, some makes (ex: Hyundai 2.7 V6 ) recommended replacing every 60,000 miles. At 100,000 miles, you are at the end of the line. I guess you have two choices here:

    1. You are keeping the Pacifica. Replace it now, knowing that it will not be breaking somewhere and leaving you on the side of the road.

    2. You keep driving until the timing belt breaks, leaving you on the side of the road, incurring a towing charge, and possibly causing other damage to the engine....valves, maybe ?
  • richardlee1richardlee1 Member Posts: 1
    Did the Timing Belt replacement job myself (I am a typical do-it-yourselfer, no more than that). Some random thoughts & suggestions for the next guy since this is a b!#$h of a job! (had 118,000 miles on my 2005 Pacifica, 3.5L engine) Chrysler says to replace the belt at 102,000 miles. The 3.5L engine is an "interferance fit" design, should the timing belt fail the valves will slam into the pistons, totally ruining the engine.
    1_ I bought factory Chrysler (made by Gates) timing belt since I did not want any issues. ($40 fr eBay)
    2_Bought a factory Chrysler (made in Germany!) water pump for the same reason. ($40 fr eBay)
    3_ “Borrowed” a loaner Radiator Pressure Tester, Chrysler Harmonic Puller (3-jaw) and Harmonic Installer from O’Reilly auto parts. Used the Pressure Tester to test the new water pump for leaks, it is sealed by an giant o-ring and did not want to find it leaking after full assembly.
    The Harmonic Installer did not work due to its design. Got a 90mm long x 12mm x 1.75mm bolt and a bunch of washers from Ace Hardware for $2.80 which enabled me to install the Harmonic Balancer.
    Should you not have this, the auto parts suggested a slamming the harmonic balancer back on using a piece of wood and a 10# sledge hammer (I did not try that approach)
    4_ No need to take the valve covers off or disconnect the fuel line as the factory manual suggests.
    5_ Do have a bottle of “white out” handy. Mark the old belt & drive cogs on the 2 cams and at the crank. Then transfer the marks to the new belt. Makes the install/timing a snap. (One cam did snap out of position after the belt was removed, but was easy to rotate back into position w/ a wrench.)
    You CAN use the breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt to rotate (slowly) the crankshaft to TDC position.
    6_I used a small tow chain w/ hook to keep the harmonic balancer from turning when I torqued it with the ½” drive breaker bar. (I did not have any air impact tools.)
    6 a_Use of a floor jack to support the engine is kind of optional. It is mostly used to maintain the engine in a position such that it can be most easily worked on. At times you may feel the need for any extra ¼” of horizontal clearance, this can be obtained by using a short (3-4’ long) 2x4 board as a “pry bar” to pry the engine block towards the drivers side of the engine compartment.
    7_ Have a 3/8” x ¼” drive adapter handy and a full set of 3/8” and ¼” metric sockets handy. As well as the ½” drive metric socket for the harmonic balancer (think it was 17 or 19mm do not remember precise head size, but it had a smaller head size than I expected).
    8_ Do have some metric Torx head 3/8” drive sockets handy and some Vice Grips pliers. (there is 1 Torx screw on the timing belt cover)
    9_ One of the most difficult steps for me was getting the power steering pump bolts back on. Was almost impossible. Wound up having to remove the radiator fan assembly such that I could push the steering pump back in position. (There is a timing cover bolt BEHIND the steering pump. I DID NOT put this timing cover bolt back in upon reassembly since I would never want to have to remove the steering pump again.) Now is the time to replace the factory installed Lower Radiator hose if you haven’t already.
    9.a_ Re-installing the serpentine accessory belt can be difficult. I used the clips to hold it in place. I used a 1” wide ratchet “tie down strap” to pull a 12” crescent wrench attached to the tensioner to “rotate” the serpentine tensioner back. The ratchet drive strap held the tensioner back well and the belt went on without too much fighting.
    9b_ I used some large “paper clamps” from the office supply store to “clip” the timing belt and serpentine belt on the drive pulleys during the install. Made things much easier.
    10_ After 118,000 miles the Timing Belt still looked mighty good. But of course should it have broken the engine would be toast. Also replaced the serpentine accessory drive belt with a new Gates micro-V belt.
    11_Total wrenching time for me on this job was sixteen (16) hours. (this includes time going back to auto parts store twice and replacing ALL the radiator and heater hoses)
  • cwkimcwkim Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a pacifica with under 80K on it for my wife. I have been reading about issues with the different years, like the 07s having tricky transmissions. Any suggestions on which years have the least problems? I don't really care about the year as much as the mileage and the 3rd row seat.
    Thanks
  • jtg61jtg61 Member Posts: 43
    I wouldn't buy a Pacifica any older than 2007. You definitely want the 4.0L and 6-Speed Transmission. This is the same package in the current Town & Country. 2007 was the first year for both which might account for the 'tricky' issues. I would hope they would have been worked out during the warranty period. I have a 2008 Touring WP Chrysler Signature Series and love it. The mileage computer regularly delivers 27 mpg highway and 22 mpg local which isn't bad for a vehicle of this heft. Sadly you won't get the Lifetime Powertrain Warranty that accompanied these model years for original owners. The 3.5L has issues and the 4-Speed limited gas mileage in the 2006s and earlier. Stay away from these. Good luck.
  • b25nutb25nut Member Posts: 202
    I would sell my 2004 (if I wanted to) to my best friend without any hesitation.
  • charger70charger70 Member Posts: 7
    So, What do you have against your best friend. JUST KIDDING. LOL
  • hollybarryhollybarry Member Posts: 11
    I can't hardly believe you get 27 and 22 mpg on your sig. series when I get a crappy 14!!!!! How could this be so?????????
    p.s., my car has sucked since I bought it.
  • brennambrennam Member Posts: 1
    I am down to one working key for my '05 Pacifica. One was lost years ago and I have a "replacement" key that was created by a locksmith. It doesn't have buttons on it, but it will work in a pinch. If I use it to manually open the doors when locked the alarm will sound until I start the engine.

    The one original key-fob combo that I have is broken where it would attach to a key chain. I'm afraid that it will be lost since its not attached to anything. I see that Dorman has key-fob repair kits, but its not the right shape/size for the Pacifica key.

    Does anyone know how to repair the key with buttons so that it will attach to a keychain again?
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    brennam,

    I feel your pain on the broken key fob......the same thing happened to me. I ended up getting a new one from the dealer, if you have two keys, you can program another , cheaper one from ebay yourself........

    The broken one lives on as a valet /car repair key .....usually, they just tape a number on it and use it that way..............I figure if they lose it, they will owe me a new one..........but it has never happened.

    The key fob was a flimsy design, no doubt.........
  • charger70charger70 Member Posts: 7
    I just recently bought a 2005 Pacifica and the owner only had 1 key (key-fob combo). I checked with a couple of dealerships for cost of extra keys, WOW they are not cheap. I went on Ebay and found keys with fob and without. I bought 2 without and had to take them to a dealership to program them. Cost me $35.00 for both, not to bad.
    If you have 2 working keys you can program a third key yourself (keys with fob or without) Most of the sellers on Ebay will send you the instructions on how to program the keys.
    Also on Ebay they sell just the shell for the fob combo.
    Hope this helped.
  • bobdavis1952bobdavis1952 Member Posts: 1
    Took my 2006 Chrysler Pacifica to the shop a couple of weeks ago to find out why AC air was not coming out the front dash vents. The AC blower and controls were working fine, just no air out the front register vents. They found the cam had come loose to the damper that controls air to those vents. They said it was back on and everything seem to be working fine.

    Two weeks later it is doing it again, is this something I can access fairly easily myself. Which side is this connector on in relation to the drivers side.

    Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Hot in Texas. :)
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    edited June 2011
    My 07 PAC Touring AWD has 102,000 miles on it, I have used Mopar 10/30 oil at the dealer from the very first. I use only 1 pint in 4,000 miles. So I am pleased. I was told told 4 years ago Mopar was really Mobile 5000 10/30 oil sold in bulk to the dealers. Recently someone told me Penzoil now has the contract for Mopar. Does anyone know anything for sure who supplies oil for Mopar now?

    I considered using the synsethic oil, but Chrysler does not allow for extended intervals beyone the normal mileage in either schedule A or B. By the way no one can qualify for schedule A. Read the requirements for schedule A and see there is no way for anyone that drives any where to meet Chryslers requirements. Any thoughts on this ?

    farout
  • pssimonpssimon Member Posts: 144
    I have a 2004 FWD with currently 177,000 miles on it. I am using Mobil 1 in it and have so far had no problems. I have been using it since about 140,000 miles. I appreciate changing my oil less frequently.

    ---Paul
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    There is no reason to go by the owners manual when everything is at your expense. My situation is much different, the 07 pac's came with the lifetime powertrain warranty, so I am certian Chrysler wants proof of all work done by the schedule. The Mobil 1 according to Chrysler must be changed just the same as tge 10/30 oil. That does not seem right but they make the rules. Do you have the 3.5L in your pac, and have you had any problems with the PAC? Many 04 owners have engine cradle rust problems and Chrysler has stood behind them.

    farout
  • jtg61jtg61 Member Posts: 43
    One thing to consider when using Mobil One or other synthetic oils in your engine. Although the oil itself keeps its' lubricating properties longer, the oil still gets dirty at the same rate, which leads to engine wear. I was told by a mechanic that you can use synthetic oil longer, up to 15,000 miles, but you still need to change the oil filter every 5,000 miles to maintain the cleanliness of the oil in your engine. This seems to make sense.
  • pssimonpssimon Member Posts: 144
    There is no question that synthetic gets dirty.... supposedly, however, because of it's properties, it doesn't get the same kind of dirty, or at the same rate as conventional oil. That's how it can be rated so much higher in longevity.

    I change it at about 7500-8000 miles as opposed to their suggested 15000. The key here is to use a quality oil filter.

    --Paul
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