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The X isn't my first SUV or truck, found it comparable to my old 4 runner in terms of ride, build, mpg (when the 4runner was still a real truck). For what its worth, I spend quite a bit of my time on trips meeting other owners and we've all had good/great experiences with the truck. Meeting owners is one way of cutting the BS of the boards. The main grip seems to be dealers and not the truck itself when it comes to problems.
My X history..3 years, oil and fluid changes, and losing a front wheel..(ok.. even my service guys fowl up) ... enough time had past between my service call and losing the wheel that the dealer could have fought me on it, but didn't and covered all costs.
Within the owners I've met, this is a typical history (except for the wheel) I'm not the type to side with the X just because I own one.. but I have a lot of fun with mine.
Would I buy another, maybe..
Would I regret not buying the one I have, definitely
Nissan did nothing but talk and promise until litigation made them repair the vehicle many times over. Now some poor schlep who buys my old X will have problems.
I am very happy for the Xterrable owners who have good experiences. It is one of the best off-road vehicles made.
1badsidekick - I LOVE the Jaguar X-Type. It has AWD and I am now driving it in the blizzard we are experiencing in Washington, DC (over two feet of snow). The car is refined, has six airbags, holds the road better than the XTerrable, is sleek and there is a lot of attention to detail.
It is one of the safest cars on the road as rated by insurance. Jaguar service is free for the first four years and they wash the vehicle every two weeks. 100% of the sheet metal is galvanized, so there is no rust. Moreover, the service is outstanding and they entice you with a screaming fast XK loaner (80K car with a 390 hp. engine) when you get service. Talk about pre-sales?
Would highly recommend the X-Type base model if you are cost conscious. With options, the price skyrockets quickly to well over $42K.
The one thing it cannot do is go offroad like the Nissan. It also has less room than the Nissan as it is a car and not a truck.
What ever happened to your quest for a Suburu? Look at the reviews...all very good!!!
Took delivery on my new (0 miles) 2002 Xterra V6 5M 10-31-02, this date now has some significance. For the record we love the Xterra. Put ~1200 miles on it and bought it back to the dealer with oil leak(s) on 12-11-02. Oil leak determined to be "porosity in the block casting", oil sweating out through the casting (a fluke). Nissan OK's, & Dealer installs entire new shortblock Assy. I receive the car back 1-9-03. Roughly 28 days w/o vehicle. Nissan presents me with a Gold extended warranty 5 yr/100K for peace of mind, my wife and I feel better. I discover yet more oil leaks and return car to have them checked out 2-5-03 being told perhaps some "tightening" was in order? Nope! another fatal flaw/fluke in this newly installed engine!!!!!!!!! Nissan and the dealer agree on installing, yes, another short block assembly! While amazed and dumbfounded they don't seem to be too alarmed? I've remained calm and cool throughout this ordeal but we DO NOT want this vehicle back! We still love the Xterra just not this one. We had the vehicle ~112 days, it's been in Nissan service for 43 of those days, and is still there awaiting another transplant. We still are making payments. My case is now in the hands of the Nissan Arbitration board in NJ??? This was told to me by a Nissan representative in California. I'm told a buy back is the next step. Three engines in three months, surely we would have had a better chance of winning the powerball. Everyone seems to be sympathetic and reassuring at Nissan and the Dealer so why do I feel I might have to get a lawyer? Anyone have similar experience(s), if this doesn't qualify as NY State lemon law, what does? Meanwhile I point out that it is costing them ~$40/day for the Grand Cherokee they put me in rather than tell them to stop dragging their feet. Do I make February's payment, due 2-28-03, I only had it for four days? Questions like these no one at Nissan or the Dealer seem to want to answer.
Yes, it's true that a lead-foot like myself will not get maximum fuel efficiency, but my wife, I call her "Pocohantas",consistenly gets 19-20 miles per gallon.
Bottom line is, as it pertains to this vehicle, we're very happy...but we take care of our baby.
Humor us all as to what you mean by this. Glad to hear you're having a great xperience out of your xterra. I believe the pro vs. con side of the xterras in this forum are weighing about even. Personally, when looking at the xterras, I would prefer the '00 and '01. I like the newer ones, but they look a bit to "buggy."
For this reason, I would NEVER purchase a Nissan/Infinity again and went with a Jaguar. Ford of all maunfacturers turned this brand on its proverbial head...making it a much better vehicle. At least I know Jaguar will take the vehicle back if insurmountable problems occur. They did for my friend just because his hood paint was severely chipping. Whamo...a new car with even more options, not even a repaint offer! Have to love great customer service.
Too bad because I really like some of the new Nissan's as previously stated.
I hope things work for you. What worked for me was arbitration and many hours in my attorney's office. You may want to contact your state's attorney and ask them to work with you. I also gave Nissan of America a barrage of calls just to waste their time knowing I would get nowhere. Kind of made me feel better.
If Nissan buys back your XTerrable without arbitration, I will faint. I strongly suggest you contact an attorney immediately. Hope this helps.
Again, many love their XTerrables. It is when one has problems that the good manufacturers step to the plate.
Too bad the Forrester looks so ugly.
I disagree with you regarding the looks of the newer Xterrables. I think they got better looking with the menacing front-end! Always liked their looks and like the ones with the brush bar. The Frontier also looks nice and the new long bed with the supercharger should sell well.
Maybe you will get lucky and purchase a perfectly fine Nissan? Maybe you can find a good pre-owned one with a clean repair history? Just do not buy my old Just Blue '01 SE, 16,000 miles, from a large nation-wide retail chain with a national web site.
It appears you still are looking at this board and are undecided?
Regarding the Edmunds reviews, take them with a grain of salt. They gave a negative road test to many vehicles like the Jaguar X-Type and US sales increased over 230% from '01 to '02 based on customer feedback and demand. This happened in a down-economy, as well. Read the current owner posts to gauge a true baseline. See how happy/unhappy they are with their vehicles.
For example, after reading the Chrysler Sebring Edmunds reviews I was ready to purchase that car instead of the Suburu. After reading the owner posts, there is NO WAY I would purchase.
Glad to see you are looking at variables like depreciation. It appears you are a smart consumer.
As for vehicles and personality...there is a correlation!
Good luck to you.
You can get another opinion in the Real-World Trade-In Values discussion. Two or three car dealers in there hit the auctions every week and really have their finger on "current" values.
Also see: What is the "Kelley Blue Book" Price?
Steve, Host
I guess I'm just curious why the big drop in Xterra values? To only show a $1000 difference between Xterra trade-in and private party TMV indicates to me that supply is seriously outstripping demand and that dealers can better afford to wait it out. Since I have no plans to give my Xterra away for $16k, I would think my best course of action would be to wait it out.
Its interesting, though, that I have looked up other vehicles I own or have sold recently and TMV looks dead on. Maybe the public is shifting away from SUVs with the high gas prices and fear of war, but I think it is more so that there is such a glut of SUVs on the market now. Any thoughts?
There's a glut of used cars on the market period - the economy; all those incentives and zero percent deals that got people to buy new; higher gas prices; over-production; and who knows what else. Take your pick:-)
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
1) Check the screws holding the skid plate. dealers love to crack them during oil change.. fix is to swap them for heavier ones
2) check for a rock inside the A-arm (yes..it has happened)
>a high pitched metallic scraping noise is heard when I turn the wheel--similar to brake wear indicators.
Check/grease the steering stops (looks like bolt heads that limit the amount you can turn the wheel.. total 4, 2 per side, on in front and behind the wheel)
>The cruise control surges and the transmission gets stuck in gear when the cruise control downshifts to maintain speed up hills.
Hills are hard on cruise as it tries to maintain speed.
I'm not a fast driver, and usually average only about 60 mph highways with it (trying to get a little distance from a tank). Best I can get is around 17mpg. Any thoughts from experienced XT owners?
You're now in a situation where you should be thinking seriously about your legal rights and the financial harm you ARE going to suffer as a result of your apparent lemon vehicle. Nissan North America will do everything in their power to avoid a buy-back. I've litigated a lemon law case against Mitsubishi; believe me when I tell you, they take this seriously and fight hard to avoid the public perception of "giving in".
Get your legal ducks in a row and consult with respect to an attorney. The idea that they want to get you out of the old one and into a new one is theoretically BS. Check your state's lemon laws (look in the consumer protection area) and familiarize yourself with the definition of a lemon as well as the remedies. In most states, if you have a lemon vehicle, the manufacturer is obligated to take back the bad one and replace it with a new one (mileage charges may apply) or refund the money you've paid to date.
In any event, don't let them get you to the dealership and play games. Anything other than "here's your replacement vehicle" or "here's your money back and a voided finance agreement" constitutes game playing.
Feel free to e-mail me off line with questions.
I'm looking at getting a new SUV. I'm leaning toward the Xterra because it's the most truck-like of the SUVs I've found. It's also affordable. I currently own a 93 Explorer that's been nothing but problems for me. Now, I'm looking to get something new to avoid frequent repair bills, and want an SUV that rides like a pickup.
I'm looking for some constructive feedback. Are these really good vehicles? Are there better ones out there? What do owners like/dislike? What's a good price to pay for one of these (or another selection)?
I've done enough research through normal channels. Now, I need to hear from people who own this and other SUVs for advice before I make my decision.
I looked for a similar discussion and couldn't find anything. So, if this is repetitious and another discussion exists that answers my questions, please let me know. Thank you in advance for your help!
It is very capable off road and in snow and both of them have been trouble free for me. The only maintenance I ever had to do were the standard things. Routine service and oil changes. As for mileage I have gotten above the EPA ratings on both of them.
One thing I have to say is that the roof rack on the X is the most useful rack I have ever had on any vehicle. Buy an extra crossbar if you want to increase the weight capacity on it. The weight carrying is limited by the crossmembers.
It definitely rides like a truck rather than a car I prefer the harsher ride myself, a soft ride makes me feel like I'm driving a boat.
I can't recommend it highly enough, the only product out there right now I would consider replacing the X with is the Murano but it is a different type of SUV altogether.
My baby is Granite, the replacement for Gold Rush in previous models. More of a pewtery shade rather than pure gold. By the way, it is surprisingly maneuverable given the size of the vehicle and the brakes are amazing.
Does anyone have some comparison information on the XTerra, the Ford Escape, the Hyundai Santa Fe (yikes, could it be legitimate?? not to put down Hyundai, but this is their first attempt at something SUVish) and the Jeep Liberty?
I really want a small SUV with good/better gas mileage that isn't horrible to park or get stuff in and out of. But it needs to be able to handle and act like a real SUV, not a car.
If you have any comments I'd love to hear them!
Subaru Forester vs Hyundai Santa Fe vs Jeep Liberty vs Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute vs Saturn Vue
Remember that people tend to post more when they have a complaint than when the SUV works right when they jump in it everyday and go (Romulandmz being the exception <g>).
Enjoy shopping!
Steve, Host
- I understand what Traction Control is, but is the Vehicle Dynamic Control a stability control system?
- How does it work?
- Basically, how effective is it in helping control a lateral slide or hydro planing through a puddle on the pavement?
Thanks in advance for any help.
I always disable the A/C during the cooler winter months.
With the advent of the new less efficient refrigerant the
A/C evaporator (A/C cooling heat exchanger) had to become a lot more dense and complex, 10,000 sq. in. of surface area vs 4400 for freon.
When your A/C shuts down, in many cases unknowingly, there will ALWAYS be a thin film of moisture remaining on these surfaces, about a quart for the one in a 92 LS400. That's the reason your windshield and windows will oftentimes fog up very quickly once you deactivate the defrost/defog/demist function.
My 92 Lexus would oftentimes on a cold morning spontaneously and suddenly fog over the windshield about 5 miles from home. I discovered that the reason for this was becuase during the previous day's A/C operations the thin film had accumulated and then remained within the A/C plenum overnight.
My initial solution was to leave the sunroof and windows open in the garage at night so the car could "dry" out.
Later I was to discover that the A/C would automatically shut down if I drove into an area of colder weather, 34F or below. When teh A/C shut down all of the moisture would be free to enter the car and quickly fog over the windshield.
My 2001 Porsche 996 has a switch in the glovebox that I can use to open the A/C compressor clutch circuit during the winter. On my RX300 I simply unplug the refrigerant pressure sensor switch just in front of the radiator.
Automotive A/C systems ARE NOT capable of dehumidifying incoming airflow that is already at a lower temperature and/or has a low relative humidity. As the outside air temperature declines to, and below, about 55F the efficiency of the A/C to dehumidify the incoming airflow declines precipitously until at 34F it is non-existent.
If you have condensation forming on the interior surface of your automotive windshield or windows it is solely the result of the DEWPOINT SPREAD being too low. Dewpoint spread in this circumstance is a function of the relative humidity and the temperature of the interior surface of the windshield.
If the condensation has already formed, or is beginning to form, then you must force a STATE CHANGE (converting water to vapor) by bringing
an extraordinary level of energy to bear on the issue.
DEFOGGING/DEMISTING THE INTERIOR SURFACE OF AUTOMOTIVE WINDOWS/WINDSHIELDS.
1. Turn up the heat to MAX.
2. Turn the blower up to MAX.
3. Activate the defrost/defog/demist function.
4. Make doubly sure the airflow is in Fresh mode, not recirculate (*).
4. If A/C is available then activate the A/C (**).
5. Lower a rear window slightly to exhaust the condensation as it vaporizes (***).
(*) Some modern day automatic systems (Toyota/Lexus especially, systems designed by NipponDenso or Denso USA, and I would be suspicious of MB products) will indicate FRESH with the system still in recirculate, or partial recirculate mode. I was warned many times for my 92 Lexus that I had to manually depress the "fresh" mode button, even with that mode indicator already lit, myself to be sure it actually was in fresh mode.
(**) Even if you have A/C, and activate it in this circumstance, and even with an indication, A/C indicator "lights", the A/C may not add any dehumidifying functionality. The incoming airstream may already be of low humdity and/or temperature, or in many cases while the indicator will light up indicating A/C mode the A/C compressor may be disabled (most Toyota/Lexus systems disable the A/C with OAT below 35F) due to climatic conditions.
(***) Many modern day vehicles have very little provision for cabin atmospheric outflow. Once it was decided by the powers that be that A/C would be used all year around then something had to be done to keep the gas mileage in check. Apparently the solution was not to let "conditioned" air escape the vehicle.
Most "exhauster ports", the common method used to exhaust passenger cabin atmosphere, are now rather small and almost all located somewhere near or around the bottom of the rear quarter panel of the vehicle. An area of unusually high atmospheric pressure due to airflow around under and over the vehicle.
Unless you turn your blower up extremely high there will not be enough atmospheric pressure within the passenger cabin to force any sunstantial level of exhausting airflow.
http://www.tornadoair.com/
steve_ "Jeep Wrangler" May 4, 2003 10:48pm
Steve, Host
What do you think? Is it really that dangerous for the car to ride with bad shocks? How can you tell if they are bad? What kinds/brands of shocks will fit on my truck?
We are most likely going to sell it and get either a Murano or G-35 by the end of the year. I don't want to have to get pricey repairs if they aren't necessary...
Steve, Host
If thats the noise a small piece of 3m double sided tape under the end of it will reduce or eliminate it.
Do you do a lot of driving on bumpy roads? The function of shock absorbers is really not to absorb shock (the springs do this), but to control the spring oscillations. If you have really bad shocks, you will get wheel hop, and lot of bouncing when you hit a bad spot in the road.
I am absolutely convinced that you can find decent gas pressurized shocks for you Xterra for around $ 100 for all four. I installed four Gabreiel shocks on my 95 Nissan SE V6 4X4 pickup for about $ 80. I got the shocks from Autozone I believe. I have had these for about two years now and they work just fine. The claim that only Rancho shocks fit your vehicle sounds like nonsense to me. Check JC Whitney catalog on line - they probably have quite a few shock absorbers for your vehicle at a reasonable price.
Thanks
National Base Price $23,399 $22,129 $22,312
Regional Adjustment
for Zip Code 50124 -- -- $21
Optional Equipment $1,834 $1,517 $1,568
P01 Power Package info $1,299 $1,126 $1,154
V93 Electrochromic Mirror info $219 $167 $175
K94 Body Side Molding info $99 $73 $77
M93 Splash Guards info $89 $53 $59
L92 Floor Mats info $79 $61 $64
F94 In-Cabin Microfilter info $49 $37 $39
Color Adjustment
Silver Ice Metallic Clearcoat -- -- -$31
Destination Charge $540 $540 $540
Total $25,773 $24,186 $24,410
Totals $24,186 for invoice. We have a $1500 rebate with 1.9% financing for 60 months. Would $1k under invoice minus rebate for a total of about $21600 sound out of line? I know the X-Terra is down 25% in sales for the year and the 04's are coming soon. Is this in the right ballpark, or should I ask for more or less? Thanks in advance.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!
Thanks
Gary
I'm looking into buying a 2000 Nissan Xterra, but can't figure if the XE is available with automatic AND manual transmission. If I find an automatic, is it an XE, or an SE?
THanks