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Comments
My wife and I bought a used 4 Runner several months ago and it had the front brakes replaced. Turns out the mechanic forgot to bolt the calipers on...so several miles away from the used car dealership, the ABS locked up as we approached a 4 way stop. It freaked my wife and I out big time! Anyway, we demanded a refund because I knew every time we put the brakes on after that, we would be worrying about the same thing happening. Good luck!
By the way, we test drove a 2007 Highlander SR5 on Thursday and the brakes were very responsive. I told my wife, "see, this is how they are supposed to be." Now she knows why I complained about our Camry's brakes. Glad to know that my Camry isn't the only one with spongy brakes.
So, are you doubting that my brakes feel spongy? I am just sharing my experience. There is definitely something wrong with them but Toyota denies it. In conjunction with the shift flare, I am about a week away from trading in my 2007 Camry XLE v6. I love Toyota - but I am very disappointed in the 2007 Camry.
I cannot comment on your other issue, but I have read that Toyota has issued TSBs on several things to correct problems. Hang in there if you can, it is too expensive to trade in brand new car. Good Luck.
They are telling my I need to change the rotors and the pads. How could the rotors need to be changed so fast? They told me the rotors will be at: 1.024(which they say is at specs) after they are resurfaced. They say the rotors are at 1.122.
On my former '97 Camry, I didn't have to change the front pads until 109K miles, and the rotors were fine. (Of course, pad life is highly dependent on brake use.)
There should be no difference in "stiffness" (brake pedal feel and effort I presume) between 2007 vs. 2008 Camrys, whether they're assembled here or in Japan, and whether they have 4-cylinder or V6 engines. The bulk of Camrys sold in the US are built in the US.
None of this is good. Get it looked at as soon as you can.
Get it to a shop to have someone look at it.
The sensors report back to the compouter how fast the rear wheels are turning (or not, as they begin to skid). The computer compares that to the front brakes, and adjusts the braking pressure so that you don't skid and stop in the shortest distance possible.
You're going to have to take it apart, and hope that it is a bind in the locking mechanism as opposed to broken. If broken, you may want to check prices at a junk yard and compare that to the dealer.
I have a 2006 Camry LE, and I've been hearing a low squeaky noise from the brakes (it appears to be the front ones). This noise only occurs when I'm stopping on cold brakes--for instance, in the morning when I'm going to work. The noise ceases after the third or fourth time of breaking. After that no matter if I'm breaking at a red light, breaking from a high, or from a low speed, I do not hear anything.
Could this be a sign that my breaks need cleaning or perhaps even need changing?
Also I've noticed a low rattling noise when I'm stopped at a light. The noise goes away when I shift into neutral (with the brakes still applied). Could my rotors be warped?
Later
Caaz
I have an 04 Camry XLE 4 Cyl. The upper rear brake light works, but the ones in the tail light area don't (both sides). The bulbs look ok, and the Stop fuse is ok as well. What is the next thing that I should check, and is this a common problem? Thanks for your help! Deb
What is dim, the dashboard display? or your headlights?
If dashboard display, make sure the dimming rheostat is turned all the way up to full brightness.
Not always. We kept taking my daughter's '99 Camry to an independent shop because the brakes felt mushy. They did a number of small fixes but always insisted the brakes were fine. Well, they were not fine. We finally did take it to a dealer and by that time it needed extensive brake work, but at the end of it, she now has fully functioning brakes. Sometimes the dealers have more experience with the cars they service all the time to know the source of the problem if it isn't obvious. Although I agree that an out of warranty car doesn't generally need to have basic services done at a dealer, there are those situations where it is better to spend the extra money.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Thanks
I have a Camry 2005 LE with 45K. It seems the brakes are still working well since there is no noise or viberating when braking.
So I am wondering if I need to have a comprehensive brake inpections, which is about $80 cost quoted from a local dealer. Or a regular visual inspection is enough at this monment.
Thank you very much!
If you do it yourself, don't stick your head in the wheelwells or under the car if the car is supported only by a jack -- use secure jackstands on a hard level surface.
Thanks, Tom
If you try to put a bolt in with the wrong threads per inch, the threads themselves start to immediately bind.
I haven't been following your problem, but did you look to see if there was a small locking nut on one of the lugs? I've seen very flat thin flimsy lock nuts on one lug nut, just to keep the drum from coming off when you pull the wheel off.
Also, on the inside of the backing plate flange, they usually have cut out holes where you can put in a brake tool (or flat screwdriver) and turn the starwheel adjusting screw manually, thereby moving the brake lining away from the drum. Many times the brake lining wiill be tight to the drum and grabbing the drum, keeping you from being able to take the drum off.
Those above two ideas are when the drum is loose from the axle flange, but still won't come off. If the drum is stuck tight onto the axle flange close to the center line of the drum, then some penetrating oil where the drum edge meets the axle and a little tapping should get it off.