-June 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Options
Comments
Speaking of chain auto repair outlets, I had an "interesting" experience with Merchants, a chain in the DC area. This was with the Volvo 240, and I took it in for the advertised special $18.88 front-end alignment. (I knew the car needed it because the right front tire was wearing unevenly.)
Anyway, they "inspected" the car and told me it needed something like $700 worth of repairs. I knew this was b.s. because some of the work included replacing the main radiator hoses, which I had recently done myself! I told them just do the $18.88 alignment, thank you!
Outfits like this must salivate when they see an old car coming in!
Every 6 months or so i suck the old fluid out of the reservoir with a 99 cent turkey baster, and then top it up. This gets most of the dirt out of the res.
Between doing these things the brake fluid stays pretty clean and the work is minimal. I dont believe there's really much need to flush unless the brakes have been really neglected. Or the fluid is just very old and filthy. And i'm certainly not paying a shop to do it. As long as i have at least one foot left to push the brake pedal and $10 for brake fluid.
Brake fluid supplied by car manufacturers is most often a synthetic polyglycol - technically an alcohol. As such, it will readily mix with water. Water does two things - lowers the boiling point, and promotes corrosion in the metal brake lines. While a car's hydraulic system is nominally sealed, moisture still manages to enter over time. A complete hydraulic brake line flush should be done with fresh fluid at least every three years, but, preferably every two years. The following hydraulic fluid designations are mutually compatible and suitable in the vast majority of cases:
DOT3
DOT4
DOT5.1
These are all polyglycols and are miscible with each other without fear of chemical or physical instability. DOT3 and DOT4 fluids are commonly available at any autoparts emporium. DOT5.1 is not generally used in most domestic and Asian manufactured vehicles (which are usually factory filled with DOT3 brake fluid - though ALWAYS check your owner's manual's recommendation), but is increasingly common as the recommended brake fluid in higher end European makes. (the stuff's pretty pricey, too...) Each numerical step in the hierarchy designates a higher boiling point and consequently more reliable performance in extreme situations such as mountain driving or competition. However, do NOT use one particular specialized fluid, "DOT5" in systems not originally filled with it or converted over to use it. DOT5 is a silicone-based fluid that is NOT compatible with polyglycols.
if anyone has had experience with this or a similar issue please comment, we will be taking the car to our local dealer next week and I would like to be as informed as possible prior to going.
Also, do you know for sure if the VSC is activating?
Maybe you can experiment in an empty parking lot at lower speeds to see what happens. (Just watch out for light poles and self-important security guards.)
I am not sure how else to explain it, it seems to occur most often when slowing from higher speeds, i.e. exiting a highway where rapid deceleration is required, but it does not happen every time. When "it" happens the pedal feel is odd with some intermittent feedback different than anything I have driven in the past. I know very well what the engagement of the ABS system feels like when braking slippage occurs and while that is not what this is, I have to think it is still an ABS related issue.
As far as the VSC...the only thing I have to indicate that the VSC is activating is a quick series of beeps that sound as the car feels as if it has been knocked into low range. Apparently, this has happened many times to the wife who first complained of this over a month ago...(I sent her to the dealership) When it happened as I was driving recently, I was so taken aback that I didn't notice any dashboard lights, I was busy staying on the road and shifting into neutral to relieve the high revving of the motor...I coasted a few feet through the curve, shifted back to drive and the car drove normally.
The dealer told my wife that this was occurring due to the tires being worn to their service limits...I chalked this up to BS and him wanting to sell a set of tires, but the tires are pretty much shot (original Mich MXV's @ 32K) and in fact, I am replacing them tonight. I have a hard time believing this is playing a role in the problem.
what's interesting is you reporting an RPM/engine race. probably to derate output they do some interesting transmission control stuff very fast.
The effect would be more noticeable in a tight decelerating turn due to the additional lateral forces acting on your (worn) front tire treads.
Also don't forget that your car has automatic brake force distribution which of itself can provide weird "feel" at times.
Your core, base, problem may be the fact that the transaxle is seemingly downshifting inappropriately during those "rapid deceleration" episodes.
I need your input/opinion on what I am now classifying as a brake issue. When I apply my brakes, they don't squeal (to indicate brake pad replacement time) but the car does not stop well either. It comes to stop very slowly (gently) and I have to be careful since the stopping is not instantaeous (defensive driving). Do you folks think it is a brake pad replacement issue or something else that I need ?
The current brake pads are the OEM pads that came when I bought the car new in 2004. I have never changed them till date.
You say it doesn't stop as readily as it used to?
You don't have to go back to the dealer since you're out of warranty on the brakes -- an independent shop will do. Check with friends, relatives, or co-workers for a reputable shop.
Any opinion on Pep Boys...just moved to a different city and hence don't have any independant shop recommendation.
Thanks for your help.
You can always get a second opinion if the price seems exorbitant.
The car has failed inspection this year. The mechanic has suggested me to replace all the four brake calipers. The price quoted on the calipers is around 220 dollars a piece + a labor charge. The invoice price is around 1200 dollars.
Is this the right price for replacing the brake calipers?i>
But now that I think about it, the 2005 and 2006 are pretty new to require new brake pads...so there may be some other issue.
Just what kind of damage should I expect from this mishap? I didn't see any smoke and after I stopped my car, I thought I smell something but it was extremely hot that day so I could be over-reacting.
J
After everything cools, just check to make sure the parking brake will apply, hold the vehicle, and release again. And also feel during regular braking that you don't have any pulsation that might occur if the rotor became warped.
Regards
J
J
I think kiawah had good advice: does the car brake normally, and do the parking brakes hold on a hill if the transmission is placed in neutral?
The '05 Camry uses disk brakes at all 4 wheels with integral small drum brakes for the parking brakes in the rear wheels. I can't see how the rotors would have been affected unless the parking brake was very firmly set. But then, you would have noticed that the car wasn't accelerating correctly.
The rear rotors have a caliper on them, which is your normal braking. Hydralic fluid makes these work, when you press on the brake pedal. Inside the rotor on the inside of the hub, is a set of small brake shoes which perform the parking brake function. These shoes are expanded and applied via a brake cable attached to the parking brake pedal. This is required because you can't easily 'lock' hydralic fluid.
So in your case you had applied the parking brake, and drove for a couple miles. There are two types of problem that this could have caused. First is that you could have worn down the brake shoes, so that it was metal to metal and you grind the inside surface of that rotor. You'd only be able to tell by taking it apart and visually inspecting the surface. If the shoes were wore down, then you'd need to replace them. If the drum was scored, then I'd probably replace them since rotors are cheap (if you do it yourself). But the reality is even if the drum was scored, not sure you'd need to replace it since scoring only would impact parking brake ability "if the drum was turning". Since 'normally' the drum isn't turning, even if scored it probably isn't a problem. Since you don't normally use your parking brake anyhow, not sure this would be a big deal (except for the shoes worn down to nothing).
The second thing that could have been damaged is from heat. The parking brakes applied would create heat if driven, and that heat would get transferred to the rotor, and out to the working area where the regular braking system works underneath the caliper. Excessive heat would cause the metal to warp (if really had enough heat), and you would feel that when you put on your regular brakes and you'd get a pulsation up and down in the pedal when you applied the brakes. The pulsation or grabbing would occur with every tire rotation so it would start out fast, and slow down as the car slowed. If you have this pulsation, then the rotors would need to be replaced.
Again, I'd be surprised if you had damage, but it is conceivable. To know whether you actually have damage, takes an inspection of the parts, or if you are feeling the pulsation then you know you have warped rotor problem.
As to costing $400 for someone to do, I can't speak to that since I typically would do all this type of work myself.
Gen 5 Rear Disc
Thank you for your suggestion and information!
I have no real idea just how this determination is made other than the possibility that the ECU constantly watches the rate at which you move your foot from the gas pedal to the brake to determine an average and if the rate for a given instance is abnormally QUICK it provides the extra, additional, braking assist.
The result of all this being a soft or spongy brake pedal "feel" during "normal" braking.
A soft pedal is what my '04 Camry (with disk front and rear drum brakes) has. As long as the brake fluid level is normal, I wouldn't worry about it.
All 2007 models have 4-wheel disk brakes (with standard ABS), so I'd expect them to be similar to my '05.
Edmunds is running a long-term test of the '07 Camry, and I don't recall anyone complaining about this.
(It was hit while parked, but obviously that doesn't count.)
I've experienced the start of brake master cylinder failure (on my former '77 Impala), and the Camry is nothing like this: when you approach a typical stop, you apply the brakes in the usual manner, and for a split second, NOTHING happens. Your heart skips a beat. Then the brakes kick in.
As it got worse, I knew it wasn't a mind game, and I realized after the initial press on the pedal with no response, you had to pump again (and again, if necessary). But of course I got the master cylinder replaced as soon as possible.
Has ANYONE had or heard of this problem?
If the caliper's were sticking and not squeezing, you'd have a hard pedal with no braking.
If the calipers or any of the lines had a leak, you'd have no brake pedal (like you had), but you'd be way low on brake fluid and there would be brake fluid all over something or dripping on the ground where you park.
So I think the only thing left is the master cylinder, which when depressed is not pushing the fluid out. Why it only happens at low speed, is beyond me.
If it was me, I'd make sure you knew how to stop with the parking brake in an emergency. Unfortunately, the 2007 is a locking one without a hand release....so that will make it extremely difficult to use as an "emergency" brake. You'll probably end up locking up the rears. Take it out in a clear parking lot and try what you'd have to do if your brakes failed again. (This made me think that I need to do the same).