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Comments
All fuses pull straight out, btw.
At least you can (and should) use the separate lap belt in the meantime.
redjar
ray.
I'm guessing I just burnt out the lighter part, or there's a fusible link someplace that I don't know about that just serves the lighter.
Does anybody know if there's a fusible link, or does anybody know if it's possible to just blow out the lighter?
Thanks.
'95 Camry LE
- Alt H - Fuse
- P/V11 M -Fuse
- Wiring Harness
for the symptoms no window power, with also no door lock power.
Good luck
If it is bad, and you replace it....and then it blows again....get your car to the local AutoParts store to do a free battery and alternator check. Your alternator might be bad.
Generation3-MainPower
Thanks, glad you were able to fix the problems.
I should be back Thursday, so can look at the schematics then, and see what the airbag circuitry looks like, and where that is fused.
As I thought, it doesn't appear to have anything to do with the 60Amp fuse.
If it is your SRS airbag light that stays on, then it is reporting that it has had a failure. You will need to have the failure code(s) read from the SRS unit, or read them yourself if you are real technically inclined. Depending on the code read, it will point to one of the SRS sensors, or it could be a 'normal' code. That normal code indicates that there has been a voltage problem, and indicates to check your battery and charging system. There is a way to clear the codes, but entails jumpering two pins in the cabling, with a specific timing sequence.
Couple things to probably consider. If you are very comfortable that your alternator and battery are good, then it may just be that the main fuse blowing caused a voltage problem which the SRS is now reporting. And if there is nothing else wrong with your power and the SRS unit and sensors, then resetting the SRS is all you need. Would think this is a relatively cheap fix at the Toyota shop.
Another possibility is you actually have a legitimate SRS failure, in which case you would definitely want the Toytoa shop to fix it as well, in case you are ever in an accident.
If you are very technically inclined it doesn't look all that difficult to read the codes and reset the light, but this piece of the manual is about 150 pages. Personally I've only once had an airbag problem, and that was on a Chrysler minivan where the coilspring in the steering wheel wire to the airbag went bad (was later recalled, so they picked up the tab).
If you haven't already had your alternator and battery checked out under load at your local autoparts store (PepBoys, AutoZone, etc), do so. Then I'd recommend taking it in to Toyota to have SRS read and reset, or the SRS unit fixed if that is what is needed. If you are lucky, you'll get away cheap. Make sure you tell them that you had to replace the 100Amp fuse because it was blown. If the code read is 'normal', and they can attribute the code to your loss of the 100Amp fuse trip, then they won't be replacing parts that you don't need.
Good luck.