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Chrysler Sebring Warning Lights and Problem Codes



  • Driving to work and my car stalls. Oil light has been coming on and off the last day or so. Have put oil in my car the last few weeks. Then my check engine light came on and before I could get to a safe spot, it stalled.
    Thankfully I was near a gas station, added 2 quarts of oil. It sounds like it wants to turn over but nothing. It's like something isn't sparking for it to start up. I will admit I am overdue for an oil change, so could this have anything to do with it?
  • when i put windshield washer fluid in my car, it is gone right away. i don't use it often. but the other day when i put some in, i saw something leaking from under the car. i think there might be something wrong with the container that the washer fluid goes in . what should i do.
  • loudoloudo Posts: 2
    I have a 98 sebring convertible engine misfire when pass 3500 rpm if I go to lower rpm engine is fine I already change crank and cam sensor also change fuel pump and filter that any one have this problem before or have what could be the problem
  • sobhy3sobhy3 Posts: 1
    To reset the indicator of oil change on Sebring 2008 : turn ignition key on (do not start the car) then press on the gas 3 times, the indicator will be rest.
  • johnjohn7johnjohn7 Posts: 1
    To reset your check engine light disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable. Leave it off for about 5 to 10 minutes then reconnect the cable. It may take a couple of trys for the car to start and it may run a little rough for a minute or two while the computer resets but your light will be off.
  • i have a 2006 sebring convertible v6. have had main computer board changed in 2008. i have had check engine light on for almost 2 years. was coded as miss fire cyclinder 5. needed new fuel injector. replaced and went 1000 miles no problem then light back on. replaced spark plug and moved the new fuel injector to another cyclinder, 70 miles check engine light on still saying misfire at cyclinder 5, tried to reset wouldn't. also have no swish when i remove gas cap. i seem to think a vaccum line has problem but not showing up. fuel milage has decreased with this. techs think i'm crazy and don't know about autos because i'm a woman. i used to help my dad with the cars, so do know autos. HELP!
  • I have a light on, on my dashboard it is an exclamation point it is under the D where you put the car in Drive what would that mean i don't have a manual with this used car. Help
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Pretty sure it's your tire pressure notification.

    ClaireS, Host
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  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    You might want to try downloading the owners' manual. I found one location here: .html (use the link closer to the bottom of the page).


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  • you were right it was the tire pressure notification thank you so much.
  • thank you for locating the manual that is such a biggggggggggg help i love this forum
  • Hey i have a 1998 Sebring JXI Convertible, It has 211K on it and about 2 days ago the oil light started flickering at idle. I gave it a few revs and kept it above 700 RPM and it goes out. Today it is coming on at 1000 RPM. I have read the discussions here and i bought a new oil pressure switch, going to put it in today. Any other ideas on why this happens? could it be the oil pump? Oil pick up? I had the oil in it a bit overfull and its been foaming as well, i took some oil out yet it is still foaming. I have had the car for 5 years and this oil light and a few wheel bearings and a few overheating problems have been the only problems I have had. The car has been good to me. Any other help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • kimf1kimf1 Posts: 3
    My 98 Crysler Sebring Convertible started smoking (whitish smoke) on my way home from a 45 min tripI had gone on a short trip, when I arrived I stopped the car and was not sure if I saw smoke or not, but thought I smelled something. A few hours later, when I left, everything seemed fine, then when I was almost home, coming off the freeway, I noticed white smoke coming out of my driver's side, also a little coming out from under my dash. As I got off the Freeway, the car died. Someone helped me push the car to the side and I had it towed home. I bought the car, May of 2010. It died several times coming from the Coast (where I got it and Fresno). It sat for a while as it would die. Took it to Firestone in August 2010, had Diagnostic done, Firestione replaced Engine Sensors, crankshaft, position sensor, Angle position sensor, still would die, also oil pressure light comes on after car warms up at stops. Then I was told it was the distributor. Took car to a Dealer (as I thought they might know what they were doing) in February 2011. Had to have another Diagnostic done, was told it was the Computer module, replaced Module, retested and then told me it was the Distributor, also changed that. When I got the car home, it was running, but oil pressure light still comes on at stops, then about a week later the check engine light came on again. I was told it would cost more to look at it and fix it. Called Bureau of Automotive Repair on Dealer, Dealer would not work with me. I had got the car back in March, now it did this. Do you know what could be wrong? Also, after it started smoking, I looked at the temperature gauge and it was on completely cold??? Usually by the time I get home from anywhere it is half was up the meter.....Please help.
  • the sebring 2.5 engine is notorious for having distributor issues which throws misfire new distributor and problem solved...
  • I have a 2008 Sebring 3.5 V6 that just rolled 40,000 miles. Check engine light also just came on. I don't own a code reader. Can anyone tell me if the car is programmed to turn that light on at 40k, or do I really need to have it looked at?
    If it is preprogrammed, can someone tell me how to reset it?

    Much appreciated.

  • Your seats are electric. Move your driver seat forward and backward a few times and it will go out. I've had the same issue and it works. The light will stay off for a day, week, month or year. The air bag circuit measures resistance and the connector under the seat isn't completing the circuit, which causes the resistance to change. I had the same problem happen a few times. The last time I did the procedure above has corrected it for over a year now. If you have several people driving the car and the seat is always being moved it may happen more often. The fan problem is a blower motor resistor board located under your glove box in the air flow tunnel for the blower motor, the part costs about $38 bucks from pep boys.
  • diannb29diannb29 Posts: 1
    Ok I just bought a 97 Sebring LXI for 1000 dollars the chick I bought it from said it ran rough and she wasn't kidding! First we had the codes checked it threw out 7 of them so we replaced the MAP sensor, husband reset the ECM (disconnect, reconnect battery) and now it was doing the same thing only wouldn't throw any codes, however through reading what seems like a million posts I read something about a vapor lock, I figure well I'll see for my self. Started my car, with foot on break ran it through all gears. PARK,N,D,2,L at neutral I reved my rpms slightly. Shut the car off, then did the on off on off on off on thing to get the codes nope nothing, so went and loosened my gas cap slowly and OMG you woulda thought it was a radiator over heating with the sound. and strong fuel smell, so i put it back on but not tightly just first turn, drove it to pick up my son from school it still died when at a light unless i drove it two footed which isn't good to do but had to, however SPUTTERING, COUGHING, OR JERKING WHEN TRYING TO GET UP TO SPEED, NO LAGING EITHER, HAD ONE HECK OF A GET UP AND GO!!!! so tonight we are gonna do a seafoam treatment to clear some of the carbon buildup, which from reading these 2.5l motors are notorious for.... Lets see....
  • ahinsonahinson Posts: 17
    light came on all at runs as steady as the day i bought it.took it to advance auto to scan the check engine light and ho said the code was P2004. can some tell me in english what that is and can i buy the parts at advance auto or autozone to fix it my self.I'm a pre 1974 engine guy myself. all these codes scare me. thanks. :blush:
  • ahinson - Hope you get a reply. I posted the same message re my 2008 Sebring and after months nobody answered.
    I did discover a strange event: I had to replace the battery just last month, and after installing the new one, that check engine light never came back on... I don't know what to make of that, but the car runs perfectly and I do all regular minor maintenance (filters, oil, plugs) so I'm left to assume that the light is programmed to come on at some mileage interval just to get you to take the car to the dealer for a few hundred bucks.
  • kimf1kimf1 Posts: 3
    They had put another distributor in it at the dealership. When I said I wanted it rechecked as the oil light and check engine light were still coming on, they tried to charge me for another evaluation. Then after I threw a fit, they said they would recheck it, but I would have to pay for any other work done to it. As I had already paid for this to be done in the first place, I a have given up. It is still running fine.
  • ahinsonahinson Posts: 17
    thanks for is a intake manifold runner control circiut open bank one. i can't even locate the part on my car.can't even find the part if there is such a thing.I just sprayed some carb. cleaner down the air intake and put in some injector cleaner.Tokk it back to auto zone and now they say no code shows up.stunning.but my light is still on and the car runs great. thanks again.
  • iamjohnpiamjohnp Posts: 1
    The check engine light on my 2010 Sebring sedan came on during a smog test today, which caused a failed test. My plates are already past expiration, so I need to get re-registered ASAP, but can't until I've fixed the issue with the check engine light.

    I first noticed the check engine light turning on and off about a year ago, but didn't think anything of it at first. After a while it started (I assume) to affect the air conditioning and the outside temperature reading in the dashboard. At times, my car tells me it's -31 degrees outside when it's 60. At those times when the temperature reading is off, the air conditioning usually fails and the car blows uncooled air (though it still blows air).

    Last time I got my oil changed, I had the shop check the check engine code and they said it had something to do with the temperature gauge, but they didn't know how to fix it.

    I'd really like to avoid the costly process of having a professional diagnose and even fix the problem, so if anyone has thoughts around what the issue might be and a less costly, yet reliable, solution I would be very appreciative.

  • torakkitorakki Posts: 7
    My co-worker has a 2010 Sebring with the "low tire preasure" light on and showing 30 and 31 lbs. cold. The preasure goes up to 35 when driving and warm but the light never goes off. Do the preasures have to be 35 lbs. cold? She's gone to 3 tire shops to add air but they say the preasures are fine. I thought my code reader could delete the code but apparently it's not in the same system. Could it be a bad sensor or just still too low?
    Thanks for any input.
  • amijoiamijoi Posts: 1
    2009 sebring lx with 28000 miles on it engine light keeps coming on , have replaced the cam shaft postion sensor twice and now 2 different dealers are telling me thats the problem still....engine sputters and stalls and sometimes is difficult to start...HELP?!
  • mrzkelamrzkela Posts: 1
    2004 chrysler sebring sedan it only has 66,000 miles and it has been sitting, I replaced the battery had the engine flushed, tune-up, oil change done yesterday after leaving the shop it was running fine all the lights were off (engine, oil). Today I took the car to go get the breaks done, when I step on the breaks the oil light comes back on, now the engine light came back on and the car is starting to jerk again....can any one help with this problem??
  • deb32133deb32133 Posts: 2
    edited August 2012
    My 2003 chysler sebring issue. Engine light was going on and off. Engine did hesitate a few times. Had the code pulled and it said camshaft position sensor circuit. Had that replaced, went home, next day the light came on again. Has anyone had this happen and how did you fix it?
  • What did you end up doing to solve the problem?
  • My car had not been driven for 3 weeks until today but has been sitting outside and we have had some heavy rainstorms during that time. It started with no problem, drove it for 45 minutes or so with no problems but the engine light would not go off. Tried the OMG test but that didn't resolve anything.

    I'm out of the country with the car and don't want to take it to a mechanic that I don't know if I don't have to.

    Any suggestions?
  • If your car is running fine and the check engine light comes on for no apparent reason, examine the gas cap. Sometimes if it is not on correctly it will set off the light. Take it off and put it back on, make sure you hear the 3 clicks per the owner's manual. It will take a couple of cycles of the engine, 2-3 days, before it goes away. If you can't get it to click right, buy a new gas cap for $15.00 and follow the same procedure.
  • lindzlindz Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2003 Sebring limited convertible, 48K miles, test drove during day all was well car is sweet. That evening the dash cluster (tack, odometer, flue gauge, oil gauge) went off. All other interior and dash lights stayed illuminated. happened twice second time after 30 min of driving they came back on. Any ideas
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