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Are you super-sure you have the proper fluid in it, and there is not tooo much fluid?
The light blowing and the gauges.....eeek. Intermittent electrical is one of the worst to find, however...if that entire cluster twitches, I would think the issue would be either the connector for that cluster or in the power source that feeds it.
One time my dash light would flicker a bit and then I kept blowing the minivan fuse that ran my dash panel lights. I found the problem was in my trailer wiring harness had worn through in the back and was shorting out causing me to lose dash and running lights.
GL Dean
Back in May, I had a new Jarvis tranny put in a 2005 Focus with about 89K miles. on it. The original transmission failed about 12K miles after the car experienced numerous, strange electrical problems.
I continue to have transmission problems and am about to take the car back to the garage for the third time. The car runs fine for a day or so. Then shifitng becomes very rough. The OD light flashes and the "check engine " light comes on. Codes show a heat sensor on the tranny keeps blowing. Last time it also showed a bad ground in the left tail light. Garage has already replaced sensor twice and thoroughly cleaned the ground connection. What else could be causing this to happen?
The strange electrical prolems from last year included a blown alternator, anti-theft fuse that blew, and a seemingly good battery rather suddenly turning into one that held no charge. All through these issues, the battery idiot light never came on although I had it tested and it is working.
Any ideas, anyone?????
Thanks~
Fred
We all feel your pain.
Internal lube doesn't sound like the issue here, while I am not sure if the '04 & '02 trannys are the same, the same basic issues apply.
If it were a solenoid, it should show up when you have the codes scanned.
Maybe the dash-electrical issue effects the scanning of the computer??
How many times have you had it scanned?
Are you sure it was a good scan?
Getting a repair manual for the tranny.....my only idea would either be a "Haynes" type manual or go online and see if someone offers a better one there.
GL
Dean.
While I don't have a light, I do have the banging/clunking up and down shifting between third and fourth that some seem to have described in this forum. I'm trying to find out what's up.
Any other places to try besides AZ or AA for the codes?
Thanks.
The dealer couldn't duplicate the problem the first time, so I had to drive the vehicle until issues were prevalent to troubleshoot.
Not happy with this vehicle on all fronts. First new vehicle I have purchased since 1992, and will be my first and last Ford.
I put nearly a quarter million miles on my Jeep Cherokee before it was totalled by an Ford F250, so I don't abuse vehicles.
I should have gone with my gut and purchased the Honda Civic.
Hindsight.
Charles
Another tear-down and more parts ordered. Service Manager said it is a good thing that the mechanic test drove it. I smell a Lemon Law claim brewing.
Has anyone else had issues with their 2009 Focus Auto tranny?
I can't believe I'm the only one...
Charles
about 2 days ago, i put my car in gear, turned my wheel right and started to back up, it felt like my right wheel was shaking.
i called my dad he took it to the shop, they said it was the transmission, something about worn clutch plates.
i don't think it could be that
i can't find anything about this, what are common problems do worn clutch plates cause?
thanks.
If there's little or no motion, then it's your clutch hydraulics.
Bleeding clutch hydraulics on some cars can be a devil of a job---sometimes you just need pressure bleeding tools.
Anyway, if they've guessed right, worn clutch plates are something that happens eventually to all transmissions, the result of wear and tear, miles, and heat. The clutch plates are what "grab" the power generated by the torque converter, and these plates are applied or released depending on what gear you are in. They can be controlled by electronics, or hydraulic pressure, or both. Usually they slip and start to burn off their friction material.
new car. Two days ago she said it was "acting funny". I drove it and noticed that the
transmission seemed to be slipping and not shifting correctly. I drained the pan and replaced the filter. As I was about to put new fluid in it I noticed that there is
way more oil in the drain pan than the 3.1qts that the book says should take to
refill after filter service. My question is. Is it possible for the fluid in the torque
converter to pump/leak back into the transaxle and over filling it ? I know the
fluid level was correct before the engine change.
Car started shifting into neutral on the freeway, and I freaked out. 2002 ZTW with 131,000 miles on it. Took it to our garage (new to the shop, hadn't been going there long). Mechanic told me the tranny was done and quoted me $1700 for a used one, and $3200 for a rebuilt jasper.
Came home over the weekend, found this thread, read the entire thing....printed out posts 76 & 110, and we showed it to the mechanic, who all of a sudden was, "Oh yeah, well, that could be it, but it could also be the tranny, and we didn't want you to be mad at us if we did the solenoid and didn't fix the issue." Pure BS. So then, they wanted $600 for a tranny flush, new filter and the solenoid. We said no thank you, please put it back to together. Paid them for their time and drove off.
My buddy and I spent about 2 hours last night doing this and it worked like a charm. My only issue is a small leak that I need to locate and check.
Thanks to aokrongly and dno36 for you knowledge and compassion to share with this thread.
I see a lot of upset people in here, but I am not one of them! I have this one paid off, so it will probably die like the rest of the cars I've paid off. I have put 187K on this car, and hauled too much and not cared for it as well as I should. The only issue I have had with it was the 2 ignition switches I put in at almost $400 each. 12 month 12K warranty on an ignition switch? Oh well. The first one I bought lasted 13 months- go figure.
Any help on the tranny issue would be appreciated!!!
My car doesn't accelerate good anymore. While driving, shifting from first to second, it will go ok. But from second to third, it will rev up and change gears. It doesn't maintain speed as it drops slowly and the car will joint with a gear change. Also, the O/D light will turn after a while if it keeps on going back and forth trying to change gears. The miles on my car are over 130,000 +.
I have taking it to a auto-shop who did a diagnostic on it and it had two faults with it. One was a transmission chip fault, and the other I don't remember.
Can i be able to fix this on my own or should I take it to a mechanic?
Lets have you take it to an Autozone-type auto parts center where they will do a free scan for you , and give you the results printed for your assessment.
It only takes about 5 minutes to do it all. There may or may not be one to many numerical codes given by the cars computer that correspond with a possible engine fault.
After you get that done, please post back with the results and we can go from there.
Cheers
Dean
We also have the issue were the trans is slow to engage and clunks after braking and then accelerating. It's rare now after switching to Amsoil Synth Tranny fluid.
Ignition yup that's a new one I've order a Strattec 707592 replacement cylinder online, and removed the pins from the cylinder in the meantime to prevent complete ignition cylinder failure. And fixed up the squealing blower motor.
Now the ABS and Traction Control lights clear and then come on after after a short drive.
Oddly enough we just bought a new Honda Cr-V instead of the Escape.
Pay up front or pay later, either way you pay ;-)
GL
Dean
It has an AT, and when driving, if I reach a speed of +/- 60km the transmission slides into neutral. The only way to keep the vehicle moving in a forward direction is to drop it into 2nd and reduce my speed.
The "check engine" light came on a few days ago, about the same time the tranny started to slip. I don't know if the two are related or if its coincidence.
I've read several of the posts here and am learning that transmission issues can be linked to may factors, but while everyone talks about slipping from 3rd to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd, no one has mentioned slipping into neutral, so I'm wondering if my situation is unique or if "neutral" is just my cars "slipped to" gear of choice?
Thanks to any and all that can shed light on this issue for me.
I am betting on our old friend 0750.
GL
Dean.
Scanning will not show anything recent unless the 'check engine' light has come on.
The car getting 'pinched' between a curb and a van could cause a shift in the engine/trans in relation to the body of the car itself.
The front end and powertrain should be checked for being out of proper alaignment.
Just my 2-bits
Dean
Thanks for your help! So thankful!!!!!
Sounds as if you are on the right track here.
Has the issue changed at all since you topped off the fluid?
You really do not need a specialty shop to this job, it is quite easy.
The 0750 is solenoid "A" costs about $50 retail at your local dealer.
It is pretty straight-forward to replace it and can be done in a driveway in less than 2 hours.
I do not know what "book-time" is for this item, however the whole thing should be under $350 with the needed 3 quarts of fluid, new filter and gasket set.
Keep us advised and good luck.
Dean.
Sounds like you have this posted on the wrong board, as this sounds electrical/computer related.
GL
SO glad its looking like there isn't any major problems! Thank you to this thread and to Dean for keeping me hopeful and sane through all of this! MUCH appreciated!
I would assume the "check engine" light is on.
It seems as if you are 1-step past this thread really being able to assist.
Your fate now lies with the dealer and your relationship with them.
As with most dealers, and many "repair" shops, they will charge you for anything that will make them money, if you need it or not. You may get a new part that is possibly unnecessary ($64.02-connector).
The new solenoid could be a bad one.
You need to have them do the replacement, and hope that they don't "[non-permissible content removed]" you around, finding other items that will pad their coffers.
Hopefully they will remedy the problem without your added financial support.
GL
Dean