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Thanks again
Has anyone else had the same or a similar problem related to the wiring in the 2001 Windstar or close model years? I would like to know if there is a good place to start the search.
Thanks, Dale
Please help ready to BURN this piece of junk
When I turn the key to the "On" position, prior to starting, I can sometimes hear the fuel pump hum for 2-3 seconds, building pressure, then shut off. When I hear this, the van starts every time. When I turn the key "On" and don't hear the pump - you guessed it - the engine cranks but won't fire.
Does this help anybody with a diagnosis? Thanks again.
Have you found a solution yet?
Thanks - Tom
my van left me on the side of the road 12am with no head lights and no street lights. We were almost hit in the back by anouther car that couldn't see us because we had no lights. Ask them to Check the Alternater 1st before replaceing it.
Good Luck
#89 of 129
Headlights and Blower motor stay on when the car is off by tkelly1740
Aug 09, 2008 (6:50 am)
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I finally got this fixed. There is a technical service bulletin on this from Ford and here is the fix. Fuse # 16 is blown therefore the ignition off signal is not being sent to the front end module. Pin # 11 (Windstar wiring diagram) on wiring harness C-239 is shorted. The diagram will show you where the wire goes to a front harness on the fuse box from the back of the instrument cluster. I simply cut the wire at both ends and ran a new wire. I have a 1999 Windstar- hope this helps. I spent 2 weekends looking for this and finally figured it out- cost nothing to fix and only took about 30 minutes. It did take me about 3 hours to put the car back together though.
The brake fluid reservoir is full, and the brakes seem to operate just fine. I cleaned the electrical contacts on the brake fluid level sensor and pressure sensor. I even disconnected the negative battery cable for several minutes to clear the brake computer and that didn't resolve the issue either.
I then removed the front passenger wheel. I inspected the large wheel bearing nut to ensure it was tight. I also inspected the ring to ensure it was free of damage and that it had all its teeth. Finally the sensor wire seemed in good condition.
What could possibly cause this problem? Could I possibly have damaged the front passenger wheel sensor when I hit the curb? Any ideas??? Thanks.
Thanks
Brought this damn thing new... a few years after I had it my passenger electric window quit working, drive side was ok...
Read a few articles as this problem grew...there's a wiring harness (wiring bundle) that was supported by some brackets. Apparently, where the wiring was resting, the bracket was sharp enough to cut through the insulation and shorted it couple of wires that powers the electric window.
Ford knew about it, technical bulletin was issued, but no recall. Can't seem to track this problem down.
Does anyone know, where the short or it's location of this problem?
If this post is similar to another post that I'd missed, please re-direct me...
thanks in advance...any help is appreicated
Read a few articles as this problem grew...there's a wiring harness (wiring bundle) that was supported by some brackets. Apparently, where the wiring was resting, the bracket was sharp enough to cut through the insulation and shorted it couple of wires that powers the electric window.
Ford knew about it, technical bulletin was issued, but no recall. Can't seem to track this problem down.
Does anyone know, where the short or it's location of this problem?
If this post is similar to another post that I'd missed, please re-direct me...
My wife told me that the brake light on the dash stayed on, and sometimes the rear brake lights would not go off. I remembered reading in this forum about the brake pressure switch leaking and causing short circuits and sometimes fires. I removed the air filter hose and checked the pressure switch under the front of the master cylinder. Sure enough it was wet with brake fluid. A new switch from Ford cost about $14.00. (they have plenty of them)
I disconnected the neg bat wire and cleaned off the wiring with a contact spray for electricals. The new switch screws right in without loosing any brake fluid.
Now the cruise works and the brake lights function as they should.
I also master cylinder problems and fixed it at dealership.
I also experinced probs with doors not closing/not latching.
Last summer my car door on the driverside passenger seat would not close at all, I heard a loud snap and though the kids broke something but, it was the wiring harness I had to drive to local Home Depot with my kids in the third row while the window was open. I closed it by using a tree limb cutter on it. But, now there is no more power door.
Latest issue is the lose of use of the entertainment area and front seat electrical outlets. I scheduled an appt to have it checked out for $99.
But now after reading all these problems, I'll wait to get another!
Thanks
J. A., Maryland- owner 3 years, of a broke down expensive 2004 Ford Windstar
I also master cylinder problems and fixed it at dealership.
I also experinced probs with doors not closing/not latching.
Last summer my car door on the driverside passenger seat would not close at all, I heard a loud snap and though the kids broke something but, it was the wiring harness I had to drive to local Home Depot with my kids in the third row while the window was open. I closed it by using a tree limb cutter on it. But, now there is no more power door.
Latest issue is the lose of use of the entertainment area and front seat electrical outlets. I scheduled an appt to have it checked out for $99.
Thanks
J. A., Maryland- owner 3 years, of a broke down expensive 2004 Ford Windstar