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I opened and closed my gas cap door a couple of times to see if it would properly seat, and repeated the above. No change. Both of the push-pin switches will actuate through thier full range (I did not feel anything when pushing with my finger)
My guess is one of the following is defective:
switches in the gas door
lock mechanism
a cable to the lock mechanism
Has anyone heard of this issue, and do you have any recommendations on troubleshooting and repairing?
There seems to be two switches in the gas cap door. is this the case, and if so why two switches?
Thanks,
Ted
I figure there has to be a way, because by sheer fluke, I found I can actually get to see the 4 separate tire inflation values when going down the highway. Background: I had a false low tire pressure indication on the TPMS (it was below freezing) and when the orange warning screen was displayed on the MID, I pushed and held the SEL/RESET button on the steering wheel for about 5 seconds, and it displayed 4 separate tire inflation vaules in the proper locations. So, being in Canada, the right rear tire showed 2 KPa less than the minimum required for it not to go into alarm. Using the handy-dandy touch info screen for conversion, 2Kpa = 0.3 PSI! WOW! I really had no idea the system was THAT sensitive. That's why I'd like to find a menu to not disable it, but just de-sensitize it bit, (lower the alarm point) to say, 3 PSI, or 20Kpa. Any ideas, suggestions, or comments? :shades:
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A08-080.PDF
The solution was the use of black silicone caulk applied to the exposed area ... that should take care of the whistling noise.
Also had a lot of road noise ... solution was the use of undercoating along bare metal areas of the wheel wells ... that helps some.
This is the rubber seal on the door and the body of the vehicle, not the window.
I used WD-40, but plan to use a silicone lube in the future.
Here is the link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfUzofgYWec (please turn up the volume to listening to the noises)
While you watch/listen to the video, you can tell when it is quiet and normal, and when I start regretting that I bought this car. I wish that Soichiro Honda (the founder of Honda) would just wake up from his grave and whip his successors.
*I just came back from Lee's Summit Honda and couldn't get them to work on my car because the service manager was so angry about the survey scores that he received from me, and refused to work on my car. :mad: :lemon:
http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/drr/jump.html
A brand new car should not have a such issue. This is just poor fit & finish.
I will avoid Honda from now.
The item you need to adjust is the bracket at the bottom of the door (at the front side of the bottom of the door). Open the door all the way and you can loosen the nut on top of that bracket enough to move the bottom of the door in and out. There are three marks on the bracket, and I moved it all the way to the third, tightened the nut, and shut the door. No movement at all now.
BUT, here's why the Honda dealer probably won't tighten it enough--with the door tight, it did not line up with the front door at all--about 1/8 of an inch further in than the front door, maybe more. OK, just adjust the front door striker, right? Wrong. You are supposed to be able to hit the striker with the screws slightly loosened and move the whole assembly behind the door frame body panel, but that did not work. SOOOO, I took my dremmel and bored out the striker such that the screw holes were no longer convex, and then I used stainless steel bolts with flat heads rather than the screws with the conical heads. Then, I could move the front door striker and it would stay in place when I tightened the bolts. A little trial and error, and the TIGHT sliding door and front door now align just right.
A dealer would probably not want to go through this much hassle, but it was necessary to get the sliding door tight enough.
Test drive, and . . . presto . . . no rattle from the doors!
A lot of work and creativity, but those doors were really bugging me. Well worth the effort. Good luck.
At first it sounded like coins rattling in a small pill bottle coming from behind the steering wheel. Definitely interior -- but high up, almost at dash level. Occurs on small bumps as well as large. If I tap on the lower fascia next to the radio, I can hear the baby rattle-type sound. After tearing apart the front dash, changing the cable reel, tightening down every loose wire under the dash, I still cannot find the source of this rattle. Then I narrowed down the sound coming through the upper windshield defrost vents -- that is why the sound was so elusive, it bounced off the windshield.
Peeked into the vents, but could not see anything strange. Even with the front dash off and the instrument cluster out, I could not feel, nor see the source of this mysterious rattle. How can I access the windshield defrost vents? (BTW, it is not related to the blower fan speed at all)
I am afraid something was dropped down the vents.
1. The whistling sound was coming from somewhere on right side which obviously I can hear when I am on driver side while the rpm is 2000 or over or speeding from 60mph or more. Got help from my brother to drive the car when he was visiting me patiently on so many days of experimenting to resolve the issue.
2. Did took it to Safelite for windshield resurfacing the mold to see if there was any leak, did the whole new mold but it did not solve the problem.
3. Tried painter's tape (Blue color) down the cowl, vipers, doors both front and back sliding on passenger side, one by one to rule out any leak, all in vain.
4. Change the weather strip of right front door no good but here I found the break.
5. Took out the side view passenger mirror and did the painter's tape on molding of mirror and drove over 60mps, the whispering sound gone. Found that the side view mirror have few rubber moldings that worn out due to water going through from where the mirror attaches to the door. Did some weather stripping adhesive tapes to fix the issue on both the door side and mirror side surfaces.
I hope this long painstaking FIX will help the forum and also to help Honda Dealers who have so far couldn't figure out where that annoyed whistling sound is coming from. Well it took me three days to figure it out as I did not have no help to drive the van while I could sit on passenger side. The cost of that weather strip 10 mm tape was $1.19 from ebay.
Wish you all the very best
I got also another, quite similiar sound: that were house keys put in the cup holder inside the table between driver and passenger seat. I put something soft under the keys and the sound is gone
So, I got a $100 "clean up".
Good service tech, though.
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