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Comments
Is it possible that the blend door is cracked or something? It doesn't feel like it is binding or loose or anything. Could it be a faulty bypass for the heater core? I'm assuming that it has a coolant shut-off for the heater core when on A/C. Maybe that is failing, and it is heating up the drivers side more?
Any ideas, before I tear the whole dash out?
Thanks!
Regards
Just for grins, I decided to check the pressure on the AC system again, and I found that it was still on the low side (~22). This is where I realized that with the connector i have, you have to press it down and hold it for it to open the valve. When I was filling it yesterday, all I was filling was the hose and the gauge.
After a good charge, I think I'm back in business. The air is still a little bit cooler on the passenger side, but overall it is fine. So, for everyone who has had this crazy problem, being low on freon can be a big factor.
Could you give me a general idea as to where the actuator is that you were able to remove prior to tearing out the entire dash? I'm looking around and I can't find anything to check.
Much appreciation.
Russ
I think the controller in the dash is bad. Anybody know this one?
Also the car is a 99 Intrigue and I can cheaply get a 2000 climate controller. They seem very similar. Anyone know if I can put the 2000 controller in the 1999? The only difference I see is an "AC" button on the 99, but an "Econ" button on the 2000. The two buttons are located in the same spot on the two parts.
Also here is a pic of what the websites are calling the actuator, I am including it so you folks can tell me if I am looking at the right part and see the things I am describing.
Once I removed the servo, and operated the actuator by hand, I found that the servo is fine. Even with the damper moved all the way to the 'cold' position, I still have warm air coming out from the driver's side.
A couple of weeks ago, however, my A/C started having problems. The thing would sometimes shut itself off, but would always come right back on. All of the sudden, though, the high/low knob malfunction. The A/C would blow only on max air, and nothing else. Thinking that would be the extant of the problem, I basically ignored it. The thing still worked, and I have little money for car repairs. But two days ago, the whole system stopped working. No air, no heat, no defroster, no fan, nothing. The whole thing is dead. Any suggestions as to what the problem is?
A second, possibly unrelated problem...before the system broke, I noticed that condensation from the air conditioner was leaking into my passenger side floor board. This has happened a couple of times over the years, but had never leaked this much. Could that be where my problem lies, or is it just leakage?
I know nothing about cars, and my brother, who would fix it, has moved away. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the problem might be, so that I can get some quotes for repairs. Hopefully it's not expensive. Money is tight!
part # 12209614 $401.80
Unless you are talking about ignition control module that controls the coils, located in the center of the valve/cam covers.
First let me thank you for all your help.Here is one more for you.What can you tell ma about a CASE relearn?This seems to be the problem,cam and crank sensor timming is off.pcm forgot?or went belly up,Thank you again OLDS409
PCM Programming
and some people discussing Case Relearn:
Case Relearn Ideas
Apparently this is some secret GM cult and only a few high priests have the knowledge --LOL! Sure is a muddy field of inquiry.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=49
Have anybody done a PCM reflash,and did it work? :confuse:
How come you did not notice all these issues during one of your test drives?
I'm not sure how much the part is, I'm thinking it is around $120. Might be able to find it on Ebay cheaper.
The $400 quote is ridiculous. A technician that knew what they were doing could raplace the part in 30 minutes.
Well I read somewhere,that it could be a bad fuel pump.I replaced the fuel filter
fixed about 90% of problem.Looking to replace fuel pump,will keep you
posted.
Glad you got it fixed and it wasn't too much money.
I have a 1999, and my climate control external degrees were never correct since I bought the car a year ago. But recently the climate control began to get stuck at certain temps, then at certain fan settings, and then it would shut off when I pushed recirculate, then it would only turn on after the car warmed up (longer the colder it was), then it basically died occassionally popping on. I had the climate control replaced with a salvage one ($130 all) which worked fine first day, then inconsistent for a week, then dead. Everything else on my dash worked fine except that the daylight sensor which automatically kicks on the headlights went out, so I had to manually turn on the headlights. I wish I would have noticed this before getting another climate control, but it turned out to be the ignition switch (which some others here have found). Cost was $250 (136 part, 95 labor, +tax). Grateful it wasn't anything else as it's hitting 0 degrees here and now I finally again have heat and defrost.
best to all those with climate control problems
My neighbor has a 2000 and replaced his ignition switch also.
To start off with, I have a 1999 Intrigue. It's just the 3.8 base model, but I like it. I inherited the car from my grandmother in 2002 and I have been using it as my primary car ever since. I've put around 85K miles on it in the past 7 years, and despite its flaws(Defective window motors, I'm looking at you!), I haven't replaced it yet.
Getting to my problem, the AC seems to have gone out and rather quickly at that. Now the repetitiveness of my post is that, like most others here, my Driver side is much hotter than the Passenger side. It has been like that for at least 5 years, but the difference wasn't that bad after the car cooled down and the Driver's side was still getting cool air. However, now its got to the point that the car doesn't cool down, and the Driver side feels like it no longer gets any cold air at all. It feels liek I've got the heater on and it's blowing into my face. The car literally has become undrivable in this hot Alabama summer, especially with the defective Intrigue windows keeping the driver's window sealed up. Is there anything I can try before taking it to a mechanic tomorrow so I at least know what to tell them and not get ripped off? Thanks for reading and any help/advice.
One other thing, on occasion, when I start up the car, and the fan is on, it make a high pitch noise like it's scraping something, but if I turn the fan off, and then back on, it's fine again. No idea if that is part of the problem, as it doesn't seem to be related to the AC at all, and it happens very infrequently.
golfgirlmd
I can't believe that they wanted to charge me that much money when the car's trade in value in perfect condition is only $1650!
I bought my Intrigue six months ago with 104,000 and have already put over 2k in various repairs. Seems I get one thing fixed and something else breaks. Now, my headlight turn off when the ac/ heat comes on and sometimes, the ac/heat display panel is dead, then comes on when it wants to but I am unable to adjust mode, fan speed, etc. Seems that most owners are finding that by replacing the Ignition switch fixes the problem. I'm scheduled to have this done at a tune of $500. Sure hope it works. I would like to think that I am going to get lucky and stop having so many problems. Maybe I made a bad choice in purchasing the car from all the problems I reading about from other owners. Think so?