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Ford Freestar Electrical Problems



  • I have a 2004 freestar, its ok,as fords go.
    it has 80k on it and the cruz works when it wants to, or never.
    now, the van starts when it wants to. battery is very clean, i replaced the battery 9 months ago.
    now believe this or NOT, i sprayed WD40 very heavy on the starter relay, on the starter.
    BINGO? it started, and i restarted it 4 times after that. well i thought that was it. was i WRONG!!!
    1 HR later i forgot my flashlite in the van, and after getting it out. i said? WILL IT START?
    HELL NO. WOULD NOT EVEN CRANK OVER. i will look at it in the morning. too dark.
    i did jump the starter relay, and it cranked over, every time. BUT WOULD NOT START.
    anybody got any ideas? Leasureman
  • ive had problems with my radio on my freestar. the buttons didnt work and then the battery was being drained and i couldnt start it in the mornings. At the same time i was starting the car the radio came on suddenly. I disconnected the radio and i am looking for some one to fix it.
  • I am having the exact problem that you described with the radio and the battery. Have you found a solution?
  • Sorry, I didn't find a solution. It doesn't happen daily but still is a problem.
  • In 2007, I bought 2005 Freestar that used to be a lease. I had no problems with it until March 2011. I was having problems with slight stuttering. I took it to my dad's friend who owned an auto clinic. They replaced the fuel pump. The stuttering stopped. 8 months later, there started a loud squealing (sounded like the belt was slipping) and the engine and RPMs started going up and down like it was going to stop. About 2 or 3 seconds later, it stalls. Had no problem restarting it while in neutral or park. Check engine light came on reading P0340. Error with Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP). I change the Tension Pulley, then the Idler Pulley, Power Stirring Pump. Also replaced the CMP. No luck. In January 2012, I starting taking the Alternator apart. when I started playing with the pulley on it, I heard a weird scratching. So I replaced the Alternator. At first, the engine sounded way better. I pressed down on the gas peddle and the squealing only lasted for a fraction of a second but then stalled out. I later learned that I could drive up to 60 MPH as long as the RPMs don't go past 2,000. Drove 36 miles on the interstate and it never stalled out. As an experiment, I revved up the engine. When it went over 2,000 RMPs, it still stalled out. Ford wanted a $100 just to look at it. I left and would live with it. In April 2012, while waiting for the recall parts to come in stock at the dealership, my Freestar starting running normal again with no problems. No squealing and no stalling when I dive over 2,000 RPMs. The check engine light is off. I still went ahead and called Ford for the recall and they told me they wouldn't replace the part unless it wasn't working.

    In the meantime, one of the rear-side mirrors won't always open or close. Then the A/C won't work in the rear. And the inside Door handle on the passenger side sliding door won't open the door. Until I have the money and the time to get to the door issue, I can live with these.

    Then on the first week of December 2012, the check engine light came on. Code P0401. EGR malfunction or vacuum hose leak or clogged. A month later, it started losing power and it stalled out. The next day I drove it 19 miles each way to work and from work. Sound and acted normal. The next day, my wife drove it again and it started shaking and stalled out. I then noticed that I could only drive 20 MPH and keeping the RMPs low, the van wouldn't stall out. I then did some checking on it and saw that the EGR was bad and replaced it in Jan 2013. The check engine light went out. Suddenly the engine started shaking bad. RPMs started going up and down constantly and would stall out. I rechecked the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure. Nothing wrong. So it's not a fuel issue. Changed the spark plugs. No success. I put the top plastic pieces and the wipers back on, made sure I plugged them in. The wipers won't work no. Drove home slowly at 20 MPH and then went up to O'Reilly's and did a computer check. It shown code P0340, which is the Camshaft Position Sensor again. This time I'm going to check the wiring. I'm also going to check the PCM.
  • darkhawkdarkhawk Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    I had a situation simular to yours. I had put in a new battery around May 2012. Around October 2012 my van wouldn't start. I jumped it and it started and stayed running. The next day it was dead again. I took it to Auto Zone to do a check and they said the battery and alternator was working fine. I did some checking with a friend, and he tried a drain test and found out that the new alternator I had installed had a drain and was drawing power from my battery constantly. I took the alternator back to Auto Zone and put in the new one. It was no longer drawing power from the battery when the van is turned off.

    The test also shown that a lot of power was also being drain into the fuse box.

    Check for a battery drain.
  • Check for a battery drain from your alternator.
  • The Answer to all the problem everyone is having thinking its the battery and starter isn't the problem...the answer to the problem is the PCM=power control module whick is located under the the black cover the windshield wipers are connected to...the water is getting in the wiring and everything wet which is causing the transmission code to come up and the spuddering and the trans not to engage in gear at times...failure to fix it on fords part everyone is having the same problem...what needs to be done is the black cover needs to be taken off and something put over the PCM to keep it from getting wet but first needs to be dried out and then put back together. hope that helps everyone.
  • harj1harj1 Posts: 1
    I had similar problems with my 2005 Freestar 4.2 - what it turned out to be was Camshaft Position Sensor & Synchronizer. You have to replace this part completely to sort out squealing problem (thinking it is the belts) and RPMs' going up and down. I had my repair done at Ford Dealership.
  • I took this video tonight.

    Immediately after, took my daughter on a test drive to show her what the van was doing. Wouldn't you know the *$&!$ van worked perfectly???
  • We had the same problem as a lot of people on here with the rpms going up and down and the van not starting looked all over the internet for the problem and came across a video on youtube about a similar problem turned out the problem is the pcm is getting wet water is getting under the black cover and the pcm is getting water inside of it which is causing the problem not the battery which is an electrical problem be the pcm is the power control mogul the best bet is to take the black cover off and seal to the youtube video for people aren't car savvy or don't know where the pcm most case the problem only happens after it rains or snows.
  • We had the same problem happen to us which turned out to be the pcm=power control mogul its a very common problem after it rains or snows causing the pcm to get video
  • abakesabakes Posts: 3
    Hi, I am hoping that someone here can help me. I have a 2006 Freestar, it has the keyless entry keypad and remote. The remote will unlock or lock all the doors, EXCEPT the driver's door. The keypad will do the same. However, when in side the car, I can pull on my door handle and the car unlocks. Any guesses as to what is wrong?
  • I started developing all slew of problems with van once dealer replaced torque converter under recall. It seems to now not have the same power to get moving, or to get up grades on highway or hills that it used to. I have to give it more gas to make a hill or to get into passing gear, and then all of a sudden the engine catches up to the gas I have given it. The rpm's may remain higher than normal (slightly) on highway when it is going through its shifting and at times there seems to be a delay in the shift to 3rd gear, but only sporadically. They retested the trans and said all ok. First issue post torque replacement was the temp gauge spiking every time I hit a grade on the highway or after accelerating the engine quickly to cut out into highway traffic. This was never happening before. It would go down on its own quickly if I let off the accelerator. No actual signs of any overheating (steam, smell, etc). They tested coolant system and said all ok. Next day after driving on highway grade, parked, went into store, came out and no start-clicked only. Took a jump first time. Next morn took into independent shop to see why. Electrical all tested ok, and could not find issue with temp gauge. They had also told me that they noticed the ABS code came up (none ever displayed on dash) and that it was not plugged in or connected right, and also the cruise control not working, or code for that may have come up-cannot recall) I never use cruise but tried on trip and would not work even though it had the last time I used it months before. Took car back to take on a trip next morning, and 2 hrs into trip it started losing power, radio cut off, displayed low battery words on radio panel. I cut into break-down lane to get to next exit, but before I made it, the van shut completely off and would not restart. Towed to shop and said alternator went bad so replaced it. Finished trip (10 hrs each way) without any more electric issues, going through mountains for 3+ hrs of trip each way. Entire time had temp gauge issue spiking then going back to mid level, but no actual overheating. We did hit a huge rain storm on the drive there, about 4 times in the mountains, but had no issues while at our destination with any starting. On way back, 2 hrs into trip, starting losing power on highway, power would go down, may have slight hesitation like a vacuum leak, but ended up correcting itself after about an hour or so driving like that (happened about 5 times within that 1-2 hour drive) and made the last 7 hrs home ok. Next day loud noise from engine front-started as squeal like belt but got louder. Drove to work that morning and within 2 miles of home, car shut off for no reason while waiting at first stop light. Started right back up, but experienced a slight hesitation when pressing on gas to take off. Independent shop said noise was from bad cam position sensor and it fixed the noise issue. Had also asked them to check the gauge issue. But they had trouble getting the temp gauge issue to happen. They first replaced temp sending unit/sensor and thought that fixed it, but when I went on test drive with them to show them when it happened, it still happened for them to see. So, they did a process of elimination by replacing t-stat and water pump. That issue now seems to have corrected itself with gauge, but as soon as I pulled out of the shop, at the first stop light, car just shut off. . Started right back up but I noticed the radio kick on to an AM station when it had previously been off. I drove back to work without any further issues that day. Went a week with no more occurrences. This weekend, after driving through the city for 15 minutes, came to stop light and shut off again. No fluctuation of rpm's at any of these times, and no sputtering before it shuts off. Starts right back up, but got a slight bucking when pressed on accelerator and hesitated to move at first. Kicked right in though and got home. Later that day went 2 miles to store. When headed back home, about a mile into drive, went to turn on green light, without coming to a complete stop (foot on brakes but still coasting) and car dies as I start to turn. Started back up, slight hesitation to engage gas pedal but got home. I noticed the door locks attempted to engage when I started it back up (they are auto lock as soon as I take off so they attempted to auto lock like they normally would on take off). It appears to be something electrical that is causing things to fail (sensors, alternator, etc). No check engine lt on at any of the times, no warning lights before shut down either. Is this related to the PCM issues or something else? Coincidence that all started happening as soon as dealer touched converter? Should CAS replacement have fixed this shut down issue as well, or is something more going on?
  • Wondering if my issue could be this pcm thing. We are having difficulties with the electrical in the dashboard going black while driving. We are not losing engine, still drives just no dash electricity. It will then come back on with everything fine. Every once in awhile it would not start, but a jump would start it. Replaced alternator, drove fine but then battery went dead. Replaced battery. No problems until tonight when dash went black again. I haven't noticed a correlation with rain, but it has been raining off and on all day today. So any ideas? Could that be this pcm thing I have been reading about?
  • We have the same problem with our 2005 Freestar. Except, it is the PCM.
    We could not drive ours because the tranny had no power.
    The PCM has been on back order for sometime. Called Ford and they say it was shipped to our dealership last Wed.(11-13-13). Was to be there on Monday(11-18-13) but, was not in that shipment. Called the dealership today and they can't locate the PCM order.
    Two weeks and counting to get this van fixed.
    Ford knows there is a problem, they don't want to send a recall for the PCM getting wet.
    I do believe this is our last Ford.
    Try this number to get a hold of Ford Customer Care. 1-800-392-3673 and follow the prompts.
    Good luck...
  • Have an update. The PCM we have been waiting for is no where to be found and the shipment of back ordered PCM's is going to be a long wait.
    Am going to have them install an aftermarket and see what happens.
    Ford, I hope you make this right with everyone...
  • hahaha Ford make this right are you joking this has been the worst Ford I have ever owned 3 transmissions 2 torque converters numerous issues with the back tailgate handle pulling out 150,000 miles about 36,000 miles for trans. worst Ford ever made.this will definitely be my last ford.havnt owned anyyhing but a ford.within the first two years on the extended warranty plan there was over 15,000 dollars in charges.
    Plan on looking at chevy van tonight.why sink any more money into a piece of junk that isn't even 8 years old..about the only issue I haven't had is the engine always starts even though it can't move.
  • jgrijgri Posts: 1
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    2004 Freestar. Ignition off, key removed Radio clock stays illuminated Left and right door window,lock,and mirror controls stay illuminated When you lock the doors electronically the driver door unlocks itself.

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