Toyota Land Cruiser

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  • george7george7 Member Posts: 9
    Anybody know if the factory Trailer package for a 2000 will accomodate a 5-pin connection (5th line is for brake lock out while backing up)? The standard connector is a 4-pin.

    Thank you
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    What are you towning that has a brake lock for reverse? Im not sure about OEM parts, all of my LC,s were outfited with aftermarkets, and yes they were inline 5 píns (converted from the round five pin at the emitter) on an FZJ-80 and the current UZJ-100

    other trailering news
     george7
    The ammount you can tow also depends on what is loaded in the truck, If you are planing on taking the family, fully loaded SUV, and a 5,600 lbs trailer, you are runing very close, if not on the line. If you were plaining on a weekend out at the lake, give your wife the keys to the other car and load that one with the kids and provisions for the trip. Try to keep the LC as light as possible, exclusion of the 3rd row seats might be a good weight saving solution too. If you are in the LC with one other person, with the 5,600lbs trailer, you are within the rate, given 375lbs for driver and passenger, and around 250 for spares, tools and what ever else you might need. that puts the load around 6000 lbs. when the boat is gassed up your rear suspension will be close to bottem, and may hit the bumpstops if driven over mild bumps. Im sure 6500 is a soft limit, ALTHOUGH I HAVE NEVER TESTED IT, but the trailer hitch is a class IV which is the highest for SUV, they range in classes and thats how we get the 6500 LBS limit, the next class is the V class and it ranges upwards of 6500 lbs (cattle movers) I would be extreamly carefull in driving with 6800 lbs. You must know your machine, check the temp gagues constantly (may be worth while to get a trany temp gague instaled, i have one and it has helped me know when to back off when towing) Check oil, brakes, lights, chains,knowing your tyre pressure is a must. check out some of the towing fourms if you have any more questions related with what to bring and how to manuver the rig under load.
  • george7george7 Member Posts: 9
    TLCMAN,
    Thanks for your input. I agree the hitch is solid class 4. and on the Tacoma is rated for 7500#. Must be that with the additional vechicle weight in the LC keeps the trailered weight down. I expected to be at the limit and had airspring installed to help with ride control (and lights out of the tree tops!). Good point on 3rd row seats - good place to lose 140#.

    I will be pulling a Fastload 2624T trailer with a 25' center console fishing boat. I have been able to determine is the 5th circuit is to the backup lights, not sure about the trailer brake lockout while reversing. The factory connector is 4 pin, so I am hoping the controller will accomodate. Most of my towing will be around the NE coast, so hope to keep it mostly level. If I was heading into mountains I would definetly go for the tranny temp, but as I will sticking to flat land and infrequent long hauls will try to go without. I have some reading up to do on tire rating and pressure recommentations - I think my factory tires are D load rated (2600#), which should be adequate, but will require pressuring up the tire. I have trailered before with another vechicle, smaller load, so know the mechanics. But as the load gets high, time to double check everthing. Thanks again.
  • cruiserlustcruiserlust Member Posts: 19
    My dealer has a Toyota Certified used 2003 LC with around 20k on it that I'm getting sort of serious about. My question is; what premium should I expect to pay for it being certified. I can certainly see the value of it, but I don't know what $$ the dealer should reasonably expect.
    Thanks.
    Just for reference the retail price (which, don't worry I would'nt touch with a ten foot pole) was $55,000. It is very clean, has the usual features incl. nav.
  • kullenbergkullenberg Member Posts: 283
    My local dealer had a brand new LC, at a recent tent sale for $56K!!
  • suffsuff Member Posts: 2
    I was in the same situation with a boat trailer needing a 5 wire connection. You'll need an aftermarket 5 wire connector to wire in. Like you stated the 5th wire goes from the backup lights to the surge brakes to signal release when backing. Some added info I found out is that the LC/LX requires a power converter (contains it's own power supply) because the lights do not put out enough voltage. Service techs stated that they go bad more often than normal converters found on other trucks/suvs. They cost about double. Sounds like all you need is the 5 wire connector wired in and you'll be on your way.
  • 98cruiser98cruiser Member Posts: 6
    Here's another way to look at it: Certified vs Extended Warranty. The certification is good for 6 yrs or 100K from the date of "original" purchase. 'Your' vehicle has 1 year remaining on the new-car 3yr/36K warranty. Your question: How much are you willing to pay for a 3-yr warranty after your new-car warranty lapses? Totally separate the warranty purchase from LC purchase. Helps to view it more objectively. FYI, I bought a "certified" '98 Cruiser in 2000 w/30K. The warranty lapsed this past July '04 (6 yrs from original purchase date). It now has 99K miles. I only had one occasion to take advantage of the "certification" - when the throttle position sensor went out at 80k. What does that cost - < $50? I suppose if you need piece of mind, "Certified" is worth it - but don't pay more above the 'normal' cost of the vehcle than a 3yr warranty would cost. Make any sense?
  • 98cruiser98cruiser Member Posts: 6
    BTW, '03 Cruisers in Texas are in mid $40K. I saw a Certified one with 38K for $49,9.
  • seattlecruiserseattlecruiser Member Posts: 45
    My brake wear indicators just started to go off (63K) and I called the dealership for a quote to replace the pads. This is for a '00 LC. They quoted me $345 for the rear brakes and $460 for the front. Looking at the costs for the parts online, this seems kind of high. Is that the going rate? Is it worth getting this done at the dealership, or are the brake specialty chains (Midas and the like) a good alternative? Thanks!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Get the pads of your choice. Labor at a dealer should not be more than 100 per axle or 200 in your case
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    The last Fj80 Front Break job cost me $240 I think it was, at an Indy.
  • mdaryamdarya Member Posts: 11
    Question about an '04 LC. Have noticed the vehicle leans a little to the left, maybe one inch. Have checked tire pressure and tracks straight on road. Is this within normal tolerances. Have seen other LC's and seems that some also lean a little. Only has 8000 miles and didn't notice when I bought it.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Sounds like you just need to have your torsion bars adjusted. Visit the dealer and have them check them for you.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Certified Cars

    Steve, Host
  • scottnrosescottnrose Member Posts: 47
    A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the rear pads on my '00 LC (60K). It is a relatively easy job. I asked for some advice here - got none - and did it anyway. Very straightforward - I have no special tools. Purchased parts on-line at OEM in MA - cost ~$55 (including freight). You should get new shims. Anyway, if you are somewhat mechanical in any way, you can do it.
  • mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    Did you pack the rear bearings? How?
  • mdaryamdarya Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the info. I will have it checked out.
  • flyfish4lifeflyfish4life Member Posts: 103
    About every LC I see has the same "lean". Even ones that are brand new on the lot seem to be one inch lower on the left side based on my less-than-scientific measuring. Would be curious to hear the dealer's explanation.
  • 03cobra03cobra Member Posts: 37
    I purchased an 01 certified LC with 36500 miles(out of the factory warranty) in 6/03. The truck looked very clean and because it was certified (warranty and inspected), I did not inspect the truck as I should have. I think they told me it was about $600 to certify it and I purchased a "wrap around warranty" for an extra $800.

    Within 2 weeks of the purchase I had both exhaust minifolds replaced due to cracks. They were covered under the wrap around warranty, not the basic warranty that comes with the certification. I have no doubt that they were cracked when I purchased the vehicle, and the selling dealer told me there was nothing wrong when I brought the truck back to be repaired. I had to take it to another dealer to have it fixed.

    The truck has been great up until 3 days ago. The torque converter locked up and took out the transmission. The milage is about 73K. The new transmission is covered under the normal certification warranty.

    Without the benefit of talking to a previous owner, I would have never purchase any used 35K vehicle with no long term warranty from a dealer before. The certified vehicle program is what sold me, and I am glad that I purchased it.

    Needless to say, if I were you I would buy a certified car and seriously consider the wrap around coverage.
  • bjoyebjoye Member Posts: 35
    I emailed my dealer about an '05 LC. Immediately they replied that they'd discount $6000. Is that normal for LCs? I hadn't even tried to bargain yet.

    Also, does anyone here have any thoughts on the Lexus LX vs. Land Cruiser debate? I know it's subjective, but what ARE the differences? Wood trim? Sound insulation?
  • seattlecruiserseattlecruiser Member Posts: 45
    Thanks for the feedback. I called a few brake shops (Midas, Meineke), and they quoted me between $280 and $420 for both axles. Equivalent OE parts (ceramic pads), repacking bearings, turning front rotors, all of which the Toyota dealership said they would also do. Still quite a spread, I have to assume that Toyota charges an arm and a leg for the original parts.
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Talk to the dealer and the independent shops and see if you can bring your own parts. Then order them online from toyota-parts.com or an equivalent. They still make money on the labor, which to me is a valuable service. I would even consider replacing the rotors instead of turning them, they will last much longer and save you in hte long run.
  • cruiserlustcruiserlust Member Posts: 19
    My dealer quoted only $3800.00 off MSRP right off the bat on a 2005; $6000 off sounds like a much better place to start.
    Did they say what the availability is for a 2005 right now, and in what part of the country are you located?

    There are a few other discussions I think that are dedicated to the LC/LX comparison issue. I've never read them; I guess I'm just not a Lexus kind of guy.

    Thanks everyone for the feedback on Toyota Certified.
  • jaygjayg Member Posts: 6
    Hello everyone, it's been awhile since I've been to this board.
    My LC has developed a wind noise that comes through the passenger side dash vent near the window. The noise doesn't come through any of the other vents. Any thoughts on what could be causing this? How is this vent connected to the outside ( the noise starts at about 50 MPH and changes depending on speed and outside wind).
    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • mdaryamdarya Member Posts: 11
    Took the LC to dealer. Says suspension is within normal limits. They say it leans 1/2 inch to the left, looks more to me. Have notice that many lean also. Guess this is normal. Wish at least it would lean right!
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Re-lay the driveway? :)
  • mdaryamdarya Member Posts: 11
    And the street, and the parking garage, and . . . :)
  • bjoyebjoye Member Posts: 35
    They have 2 TLCs on the lot. I'm in North Carolina. $6000 off was the initial offer in response to 2 emails from me. Plus they had about $1000 worth of add-ons (wheel locks, Toyo Guard spray protectant) that she said I didn't have to take if I didn't want.

    Now I'm trying to decide between the TLC and another Lexus GX470.
  • luvboxrsluvboxrs Member Posts: 47
    Maybe one of you smart men can help me out...

    I can't keep the vibration/wobble out of the steering of my 03 LC. I rotate and it gets worse. I've had it back at the tire place upteen times looking at rotation, balance, everything to figure out why I can't get a smooth ride out of the tires. This has been an issue for the last 20k miles or so.

    Is my problem the tires? They are the tires I bought the vehicle with--Goodyear Grandtreks. I have 18" Foose wheels. I have 34k miles on these tires.

    I'm tempted to go buy new tires even though I don't quite need them yet, but do you think that will solve my problem? I do rotate every oil change.

    Any opinions??
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Did you buy the LC new or used? At what speed does it vibrate? When I bought mine, it did the same thing, but the tires were worn, and new tires improved the ride some, but I still had vibration problems at 60-75 mph. I have had the tires rotated and balanced several times, including on one of the Hunter machines, which corrected the problem, but I still get an occasional wobble. It is aggravating to say the least. The brakes, alignment, etc all seem to be fine.
  • luvboxrsluvboxrs Member Posts: 47
    I bought the LC new. The vibration problem is between 60-70. Usually worst at about 62-63 mph.

    Like you, everything checks out fine...

    The last time I rotated, the vibration was so violent it was like one of those foot massager deals at the fair! My arms were flying around everywhere. I took it back and said you have to put the tires back the way they were!

    I was really hoping to get rid of this problem once and for all! The guys at the shop are sick of me already. :)
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    This is really interesting that the problem you are having and mine are essentially the same. Someone else posted about this problem a while back as well. My LC is a 99 with stock wheels. When I bought it with the worn out tires, they were stock Michelin LTX's. I replaced them with oversized B-stone dueler a/t Revos 285/75/16. Does the vibration go away above a certain speed? When did you purchase the wheels and tires? Was it after that when the problem started?
  • seattlecruiserseattlecruiser Member Posts: 45
    I've got one more follow-up about the brake job. I have it at a Midas right now, and they say I need to replace one of the rear calipers due to a frozen piston. I asked if they have done everything they can to get if loose, and they state they have. They also said that the pad on that side is much more worn than on the other side.

    Does this make sense? I searched the board, and I couldn't find any previous posts about problems with frozen pistons. This is a '00 LC with 63k miles. Also, I had no braking problems whatsoever when the wear indicators started to go off.

    I really have no reason to doubt the mechanic, seems like an honest enough guy. But I figured it's still worth checking in the with board if any of this sounds odd to anybody and if there are any suggestions on how to verify what they're telling me. Thanks!
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    The alignment issue may be related to toe in/toe out IMHO. The alignment can be to "spec", as you've both noted, but you can still get the vibration. I stumbled on to this phenomenon with my BMWs a few years back. They seemed prone to the 60-63mph shimmy you're describing. As it turns out, if you set the toe to exactly 0 you get shimmy, with a little toe in, as you pick up speed the toe moves pretty close to 0 and no shimmy. You may want to check with some alignment shops in your area and see if this sounds reasonable to them. I found that black top roads were the worst for causing the shimmy

    Though I've had this problem too, mine was strictly a balance issue.

    The frozen piston/brake caliper is not uncommon and can cause the uneven pad wear. You can rebuild the caliper if you're inclined to do it--which is cheaper than buying a new one.

    Finally, re: the lower on one side issue--I'd still recommend adjusting your torsion bar up on the low side. I'm sure the dealer would do this for you.

    HTH
  • luvboxrsluvboxrs Member Posts: 47
    hank14:
    The vibration does go away at about 70+ mph. The wheels and tires were on the vehicle when I purchased it. The problem wasn't immediate--it didn't develop until I had 10-20k miles on the car.

    I posted my question on another forum here on edmunds and someone wrote back that the Nissan Pathfinder had the similar problem we are having and they were able to fix it by finding someone with a Hunter 9000 Road Force Balancing machine to balance the tires. I looked up on www.hunter.com and found who in my area had the machine and it's the shop I've been taking the LC to all along. So I guess that puts me at square one again.
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Maybe it's the alignment issue steelcruiser mentioned, although I had the Toyota dealer do the alignment and the balance on the Hunter machine at the same time. I'll ask them about it.
  • lpc68lpc68 Member Posts: 45
    just to update on the starter problem. replaced the starter and its good as new. remanufactured toyota starter cost $150 + tax and labor at a local indy shop was $65. took about 45-50 minutes. bit of a hassle to get to.
  • flyfish4lifeflyfish4life Member Posts: 103
    Anyone hearing any current rumblings as to a definitive redesign date for the next LC. Motortrend says 2006, but you would think rumors would be surfacing if that were the case. I just hope Toyota doesn't screw too much with the classic lines and current chassis. Would love to buy an '05, but something keeps holding me back. Just wish Toyota would release some info so that prospective buyers could make an informed $55K decision.
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Maybe they don't want to say so they can sell their 05's? Seems logical to me, although I know they have to announce it at some point.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    I am a bit dissapointed in toyota right now, I have looked over the engines and ratings are realized the LC is the only one using the old 4.7 with hp pegged at 230, the sequoia uses a iFORCE 4.7 basicly the same engine with fancy gizmos, that pumps out 282hp thats not it, the 4Runer has two engines offered one, the 4.0 V6 that puts down 240hp (also avalible in the tacoma) and the 4.7 V8 borowed from the land cruiser now uses VVT-i and brings the output to 270hp. Not to mention the Tundra uses the i-Force i belive, so why is the PREMIUM SUV of the pack being handed the least powerfull engine? My thought is brand new engine to out power its stable mates, for the LC in 06 or 07 when the redesign comes, I hope. For the sake of all cruiser lovers, the sequia is nice but its not a cruiser... Comon Toyota impress me once again.
  • mercaramercara Member Posts: 291
    tlcman.

    I hope you are right too. I am waiting to replace my M-Class with a LC. It'll be great if Toyota threw in a V8 with cylinder shut off technlolgy with 300HP and about 20 mpg :).
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    good luck with the 20mpg, but it would be nice to see the power ratings equal to its torque rating... 325ish still look for the advertised 15-12 mph (cylinder shut off might not work for a car of this size and weight)
  • flyfish4lifeflyfish4life Member Posts: 103
    I agree with you hank14, but the LC is in such limited volume already (3-5K units annually), not sure that dissemination of information (say in the January auto shows) poses a huge threat to sales of the existing model, especially in a year where the GVW tax deduction may be axed. One dealer I spoke with recently had heard a rumor that the LC may become a separate division of Toyota (sort of like SCION) and have dealerships with several variations, including the FJ cruiser. Who knows?
  • baker1baker1 Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone had to decide between the Land Cruiser and GX470? I am looking to get DVD and NAV. Both appear to drive well, but the GX does not appear to be scheduled for a change in 2006 like the land cruiser. I was just offered 52,700 for a 2004 land cruiser with DVD/NAV/Convenience. I don't expect to use the 3rd row in either too often. Is this a good price or should I try to bargain for an 04 GX with NAV/DVD
  • bjoyebjoye Member Posts: 35
    I have an '04 GX470 and I'm considering getting another vs. a LandCruiser. We don't have any '04 Cruisers available around me. You can probably get an '04 GX for close to $45k, that's significantly less than the Cruiser.

    The GX is nicer(better interior, quieter, better audio system, handles better), the TLC is a hair bigger (more hip room, and shoulder room although the GX has more headroom/legroom). Don't forget about warranty length and service pluses like loaners.

    I wouldn't worry about the TLC makeover pending. It may actually turn out that the current is a classic and the new model isn't as well accepted, just like the BMW 5 series makeover.

    You can't go wrong with either, it's just a matter of cash and personal preference. I still can't decide. But if I didn't already have a GX, it would be a no brainer, the GX delivers much more for less money.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    I have a friend who lives in Phoenix and bought a GX. A/C wouldn't keep the car cool and after several trips to the dealer to sort out the problem, the dealer ultimately came clean: Toyota/Lexus has problems with the GX cooling in hot climates, primarily Arabian peninsula and Australia. After fighting....eh..sweating...for several months, Lexus bought it back at full pop and threw in a healthy discount on an LX. It seems dealers are supposed to first do damage control, and if that doesn't keep the customer happy, simply buy it back.
  • bjoyebjoye Member Posts: 35
    Well, I'm certainly not in Phoenix, so I can't disagree. But I have a black GX with dark gray leather and it easily froze me out in the middle of a North Carolina summer this year. I highly recommend the dealer ceramic window tint to keep out the heat. I had them tint the driver and passenger windows as well.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    The A/C on my Fj80 packed up (seized up so the car wouldnt drive without cutting the appropriate belt) at around 80,000. So I have been sweating it out for 37,000 miles now - not prepared to cough up the $1200+ itll take to fix it. I was unaware that this was an LC Lexus weak spot. Of course I was out of warranty - typical.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    On the GX, not the LX/TLC
  • mercaramercara Member Posts: 291
    Anyone have any experience with using the third row seating on the GX vs the LC. Which is better? My M-Class has the third row and it is usable for moderately sized folks. I sat in the third row in a GX during the NY auto show and it was pretty bad. I have ruled out the LX as I need to tow. The GX and LC tow 6500 lbs but strangley the LX does only 5000 lbs which is pretty weak for a full size V8 truck.
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