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Trial and error after previous fiascos showed that when parking and switching off leaving the steering wheel centered allowed a perfect start next time; if wheel was only 10 degrees off center wheel locked up and key could not be inserted. It's obviously useless going back to dealer as they haven't a clue, but what the hell are Ford engineers doing? - There is surely enough evidence here to generate an investigation as there is most definitely a design fault somewhere; I guess it's the old story - after sales problems are of minor concern (money has been collected, bottom line improves) unless there are fatal accidents or safety related problems that may eventually get the governments attention.
It's a pity that I have to make a comparison but my Mercedes has no problems, is so well engineered and put together and the dealer appears to be on top of any technical questions that again US manufacturers are left in the dust.
Did you replace the intake plenum gaskets? Assuming you removed the intake plenum to get to the fuel rail to get to the PCV. If you did, make sure they are seated correctly and that you did not gouch them when installing the plenum back on. If you did not replace them, replace them. You cannot re-use the same old gaskets once you have broken the seal by removing the intake plenum. Also word of advice, if you have not replaced the spark plugs, now would be a good time to do so otherwise you will have to remove the intake plenum once again to replace them later and have to replace gaskets as well again.
-Hoot noise which was kinda fixed but still hear it.
-Leaking back window
-Seatbelt fell apart
-Windows which make strange noises when closing
-Air conditionner blowing out white crap all over me and dash...(they cleaned it a few times)
- *******And most importantly the strange noise coming from under me or the engine when I go foward. Its almost like a rumbling noise...sometimes I hear metal in metal and it also happens when I'm going normal slow speed (50km) and with low rpm's. (going over a small hill) Its sounds like a RRRRrrrrrrrrrahhhh and its annoying! I noticed it did it more often when I had the air on. They changed the catalitic comverter and did some adjustments to the catalitic and front pipe and donut but it seems to be doing it even more. The service agent told me if they could hear it and not normal, they could fix it. I had 3 mecanics hear the noise. They all told me it wasnt normal. Now they told me all Tribute's make that bizar noise and there's nothing to be done.
I'm bringing it one last time to maybe check the manifold and replace everything to stock parts and hopefully the noise will stop or be less noticable. I already spoke to a lawyer and someone at the automotive arbitration plan. I will proceed if not resolved.
Anybody have this problem? ggrrrrrrrrRRRRarRRR noise!
I also noticed when I start moving that there's like a loss of power and not constant? Is that a transmission issue? I think it does it more when i have the air on aswell. Like a small jolt....i give gaz and it starts, i lose power, then it goes but annoying since my whole body swings cause there's not a constant flow....does that make sense?
Having checked fuse 3 for the rear wash wipe system - the rear washer/wipe
system is not discharging any cleaning solution - the window wash system reservoir in the engine compartment is full and the front window washer dispenser is working. On engaging
the steering wheel stick control that manages this operation for the rear window I can hear
what sounds like the motor going. Does anyone have an idea as to the problem here and why it won't dispense cleaning solution ?
Any help appreciated ...
Brian
was in the tube - finally cleared itself ... thanks again .. !!
Tell them it is not the alternator.
DTC P1744 is "TCC - Excessive Slip Detected During Full TCC Engagement". Which means that the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is disengaged or the EPC pressure is at the minimum.
The most likely cause is a sticking or bad TCC solenoid inside the transmission. You can check the connector at the transmission to make sure it is clean and tight and that it is not damaged in any way. That "miss" you felt was the TCC disengaging.
If the TCC and wiring is okay, then pressure testing of the transmission will need to be done.
I don't think it would be as much as he guesses. A new torque converter from Ford is about $265.00 and about 8 hours labor. Throw in a $40.00 TCC solenoid and I don't think it'll be more than $1,000.00.
retired18
Thx
Also, poor cylinder combustion that causes engine misfire increases HC(Hydro-Carbons) in emissions in the exhaust. This can overload the catalytic converters and accelerate their deterioration.
If the problem is not leaky caskets, wires, plugs, coil pack, fuel injectors, or fuel filter this usually is the problem for misfires. I would relace this first before any other options. If the problem persists, check to see if your catalytic converter is clogged.The sensor is small and cost about $34. And if the converter is damaged, check to see if it's still under warranty. I believe most carry an 8 year 80,000 mile warranty. Hope this helps.
I'm Running out of ideas can anyone help?
I did my plugs this summer and had no problems. However, I think it is easy to omit connecting all of the hoses since I had one in particular drop out of sight when removed. I don't think is was connected to the EGR, but it made it easier to remove the EGR.
I would check hoses and electrical connections to the EGR/DPFE and any other components in the engine compartment that may have been removed during the plug replacement. Do the hoses have any cracks that could be leaking air?
My questions: Do I really need to get this fixed or is the zip tie a easy remedy? What the part name of the plastic piece that used to secure the cable to the pin?
I was traveling at about 80km/h behind another car in a single lane road. The road opened up into double lanes and I wanted to overtake the car in front of me. I stepped on the gas, the transmission kicked back two gears and the next moment the engine just cut out. The rev's dropped to about 3500 and the engine came back in. It revved up to 4000 rpm and cut out again. It continued to do so for nearly a minute. By this time I have pulled over on the side of the road and reduced speed to about 40km/h. The engine then kicked back in and I continued my trip without any further incident.
Is there something busy failing and if so, what? Do I need to start looking for spare parts? Any advice will be appreciated. :confuse:
I was having some major issues with the transmission in my 2009 escape.
The transmission would downshift from overdrive all the way down to 1st or 2ND gear or after driving on the highway then going 30 or 40 mph it would not shift down. So i brought it in and they pulled the transmission and had to replace some seals and clutches. the problem is when i picked up my car on a Friday afternoon it was raining so i just drove it home and parked it and didn't use it on sat. but on Sunday i noticed the hood looked like it was up about 3/4 of an inch. i called the dealer on Monday am and they said that there was no way the could have done anything like that. So i have a friend who is a body man and he said it looks like they bent the radiator support. then i showed it to the dealer they denied they could have done anything like that by taking the transmission out and said i must have done it or the car was in an accident. there is no external damage on the car and the radiator support looks like it has some pry marks on it. The mechanic at the dealer lowered the rubber snubbers and moved the latch but this doesn't fix the problem. It still doesn't look right.
Any ideas on what to do next?
thanks Tom
The Ford dealer came up with three codes: P0351; P0303; P 0316.
They replaced coil #1 and charged me $344. Same problem the next week. Dealer said they might have to replace another coil. I took it to a local mechanic with diagnostics. The owner told me the same codes, same solution.
A hot-shot mechanic working there said the code P0316 might indicate a bad wire to the computer. He replaced the wire. After a summer of record-breaking heat, I have had NO PROBLEMS! The cost for the second solution was $81.
The gaskets set, upper and lowers in one kits cost me about $8. The lower gaskets were burnt to a crisp. Once I replaced those then it was fixed and ran great, for a few months.
If you ever have problems with sputtering and stalling while your engine is cold those gaskets are something to look at. There are probably 8 bolts or so that hold the intake/plenum on. once they are out you can pretty much swing the plenum back so access the gaskets.
Recently i got a code P0171 (lean condition bank 1) along with the check engine light. There are no vacuum leaks anywhere (already checked). Vehicle has become sluggish off the line, fuel economy has dropped from about 27 mpg to 21 mpg. Traveling at speed up a moderate grade I have to shift from 5th to 4th and sometimes to 3rd to get up the hill. Performance is suffering. Odd thing is that at night it runs better (it's cooler), during the day when the temp gets over 75 degrees it turns into a slug. It never was a formula one vehicle but the performance was pretty good for a 2.0 liter 4cylinder FWD with a 5 speed.
Before I start throwing a bunch of parts at this thing (Maf sensor (removed and cleaned), fuel pump, injectors (fuel injector cleaner in gas tank 2 bottles), Throttle body (cleaned) does anybody have an idea what might be causing this and the solution?
Thanks
Auralvoodoo
Anyone know where I can find this and/or willing to take a quick picture of their assembly?
Am new to this forum so please forgive me if I'm doing this all wrong.
I have a Mazda Tribute 2002, 122k on the clock. For about the last 3 weeks or so I've noticed that when I first use the car during the day (morning or afternoon) whenever I turn the wheel I hear a rubbing/friction noise (not a whistle), as if something is grinding on something else. After a minute or two of driving the noise disappears completely and that's it gone for the day, even if I leave the car for a couple of hours and use it again it doesn't reappear. Following day same thing again.
Yesterday I took it to Goodyear Service Centre (nearest place to me with a good reputation) and they had the car for an hour (at no charge which was good) and diagnosed that I need 3 x engine mounts fitted at a cost of $998, obviously I'm reluctant to shell out this sort of money if it's not the cause. Has anyone any other thoughts on this please. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
Stuart