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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • computer hiccup? or the filter is clogged?
  • they dont make them like they used to. Take a look at, I could not believe how many parts they make for the big 6.
    yes, U joint needed to be replaced. plus an alignment.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "computer hiccup? or the filter is clogged? "

    Ford confirmed a bad batch of circuit cards for certain 2009 models. The later models are being included out of caution by the NTSB.
  • I own a 2009 Tribute and have noticed some of the same things you report. Any metal piece on my vehicle, front to back, inside or out, seems to be rusting.
    The fixtures which attach the seat to the car as you mention rust. The bolts holding the windshield wipers are rusting. In the rear hatch the bolts sticking up are rusting.
    I have not noticed any water in the front of the vehicle, but the rear seal around the window in the hatch needed replacing (under warranty).
    Seems that the same problems are still there.........unsolved.
  • for car companies, cheaper the better. Most car companies outsource most components, look at the Magna website. Or go to FB and find Mazda, complain online. I have a 2011 Escape, sounds like a Chinese sewing machine, cheap.
  • zpb52zpb52 Posts: 1
    Saturday, my wife took her 2004 Ford Escape V6 in for an oil change at a locally-owned Mobil 1 franchise. The car was running beautifully before she took it in. When she left, she noticed the engine was acting a little funny and the Check Engine light was on, so she wheeled back around to the oil change place and inquired. The technician told her that it's possible some water got in the engine during the oil change or that the oil level hadn't fully been recognized by the car and that could've led to the check engine light, but regardless, she should take the car to their affiliated auto shop a few miles away for a tune-up. They reset the check engine light and sent her on her way, saying that if the light came on again, to take it into their shop to figure out what may be causing it.

    After running a few errands, an hour or so later, her car suddenly wouldn't climb a hill and there was a loud hissing sound coming from under the hood. She pulled over. lifted the hood and noticed that there was an electrical wire hanging loose (we later learned, after some online research, that this was the electrical wire leading to the DPFE sensor).

    We left the car on the side of the road and I took her back to the oil change place, where she proceeded to give the technician a piece of her mind, asking what could have happened and pointing out the unplugged electrical wire in the process. The technician explained that he didn't know of anything they did wrong and that the hissing sound may have something to do with the vacuum seal being knocked loose during the oil change. He said he didn't know what wire we were talking about and why it would have been unplugged. (But anyone who has ever lifted the hood on a Ford Escape would be able to see the DPFE wire unplugged -- it's right on top in the front.)

    We called a tow truck and after talking to the driver for a few minutes, he took a look under the hood and noticed the blown EGR valve ( and told us what it was.

    We had the car towed to a reputable local shop that we've used in the past, and the head mechanic there said he's never seen an EGR fail in this manner since he's been working with them. We did find a photo online of another EGR valve that failed in nearly the exact same manner (

    So -- the question I have is -- Can the unplugged DPFE sensor lead to the blown EGR? Is it possible the DPFE was unplugged accidentally (perhaps knocked loose because of its proximity to the oil well), or would it have to deliberately be unplugged? Why would someone unplug it during a routine oil change?

    We are going to approach the owners of the oil change place once we are billed for the repairs about "making it right", because we fully believe their negligence (or possibly foul play) led to this failure, and we may pursue legal action thereafter if they refuse to cooperate. Any advice on this front would be appreciated as well.

    Any help any of you could provide would be fantastic. Thanks.
  • Except for the oil change I had exactly the same problem. What caused the the DPFE and EGR problem was excessive pressure. What caused the execss pressure was a plugged rear catalytic convertor. What plugged the rear convertor was interior of one of the front converters. What caused the front converter to come apart was excessive heat from burning raw fuel. What caused raw fuel was a misfire on one cylinder due to a failed ignition coil. I have replaced the rear catalytic converter, the EGR valve and the DPFE and am driving the car. I have not yet tackled the front converter.
    Seems pretty likely your situation is the same. There are lots of reports of this occurrence on the web. Ford probably should have reconsidered a utility vehicle that can't sustain a misfire especially one with plugs that are not accessible.
  • My Escape has overheated twice now after the recall fix. There are other complaints about this on the DOT website. Do not buy this car.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 14,140
    So how do you like your Escape other than the overheating?
    2019 Lincoln MKZ Reserve 1, 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • This car reminds me of a prototype. The car isn't integrated yet. The transmission also has lots of issues. It never knows what gear to be in. Perhaps a crappy throttle position sensor? I heard they are now switching out all the MAP sensors on the AWDs. IF explorerx4 is a Ford engineer, I'll do you a favor and come out for a couple of months and work for you for free. You need all the engineering help you can get lol.
  • azkiwiazkiwi Posts: 2
    Have an odd problem with the rear door on the 2001 escape. It sometimes locks, it sometimes doesn't.. The hotter it gets, the more prone to failure it is.
    Currently the truck door is unlocked. I want to remove the plastic trim cover to get inside and have a look see. I have removed the 4 or so screws from the bottom. But since I know v. little about removing trim etc from and escape, prudence dictates I ask for advice before I start trying to pry it off and possibly /probably break something.

    How is the trim attached to the cargo door, and what is the procedure for loosening and removing it.

    AZ Desert
  • azkiwiazkiwi Posts: 2
    fingers.. clicked post in lieu of edit....
    It's the rear cargo door, not as implied a rear pass. door.


  • noting on rear passenger side, and tail gate rust, Already!!!
    even after last year undercoat.
  • An Allen wrench is used to align the headlights. Its made of soft metal. Is there an easier way beside removing the front end of the escape to align. We found the low & high beams are too low.
  • thank you for such a complete reply about your escape. your post has proven to be most helpful!!! thanks again
  • angieiangiei Posts: 1
    I also have a 2005 Ford Escape and have had to be towed 3 times in the last couple of weeks because of this same issue. Once it is towed to the mechanic it would work fine. First mechanic did find a service message on the internet about it. After that I took it to the Ford Dealership and they could not get the car to malfunction. They put some kind of a black box device in it to see if it would record what is happening. Took it for a drive and got stranded 30 miles away. Had it towed to dealership and it was determined to be the torque converter...$2000 fix. I am a one car, single mom family and each stall/tow was very inconvenient. Finding a lot of 2005 Escapes are having this same issue. Just wondering if this should be a recall situation and not a service message situation.
  • hwmspechwmspec Posts: 10
    Welcome to the club. The Ford Escape and Mazada Tribute transmissions are junk. My failed at 60000 miles. Cost 2700 to repair. Traded the POS in for a Lexus, couldn't be happier.
  • miss13miss13 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out how to fix this problem? Add I'm having the same problem.
  • I need some help in troubleshooting my 04 Tribute ES, 3.0 V6 automatic. 106k miles
    After a severely drawn down dead battery, I installed a warranty replacement from Advance Auto.
    It started right up and I drove it first on back roads 25-35 mph and it runs perfect. Anything above 35 and it boggs down like its starving for fuel. I ran it for about 6 miles struggling at 35 mph and had to turn around and come back home. It idles perfectly and drives with plenty of
    smooth acceleration up to 35mph. No Check Engine Light throughout this ordeal.
    Here is what I did so far.
    - Connected the code reader to see if there are any pending codes - PASS no codes pending or present, no Check Engine error.
    - My first thought was fuel filter/fuel pump. I installed a new fuel filter and no change still bogging.
    - I attached a professional fuel pressure gage to the fuel line at the engine and getting a steady 65 PSI. I even placed the gage on the windshield and took it for a ride and the pressure is steady 65 PSI from 0-35 MPH. I even floored it only to get that severe bogging at 35+ and fuel pressure still at steady 65 PSI.
    - Also note that it has a new exhaust + CAT front to back 6 months ago. Flow is fine.
    I was ready to go out and buy a new fuel pump assembly, but not after that test.
    My thoughts: Fuel injectors? why would it run so strong and smooth at idle and below 35 mph and also not throw a code.
    The only clue I have is when all this started with the drawn down battery and new battery installation. I have decided to try and reset the computer by removing the battery cable and let it sit overnight. I have read that you need to pump the brake 5 times while its disconnected to reset. I have also read that you should tap the battery cable 2-3 times on the post to clear the computer.
    Any thoughts on this are welcome.
  • UPDATE: Turned out to be a clogged up CAT converter. I want to leave this post up for others to reference that may have similar problems.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Sounds like that new cat you got six months ago was short-lived. Thanks for the update.
  • mattcazmattcaz Posts: 1
    edited August 2016

    I have a 2004 ford escape XLT 3.0 V6. Last summer it started idleing rough and acting funny. Slowly over time it kept getting worse giving misfire codes, stalling at lights etc. I changed, plugs, wires, both O2 sensors, fuel filter and was getting ready to replace EGR valve when I discovered the actual problem under the hood stareing at me. I should say hissing. This triggered some old school memorys and skills. With a little detective ear work I followed the sound to a 1/2" diameter vacum hose that had deteriated from extreme heat. The hose is located on top of the engine in back next to the firewall. It is about in the middle and is a 90 degree hose. the heat had caused a hole to form in turn making the hose collapse on itself. I turned the engine off and the hose popped out. I put some duck tape on it and restarted. The car ran perfect, the check engine light went out and I drove it for a week with no problems, until i properly replaced the hose. Never has been a problem since. So before spending to much more time and money check this hose out first if it is not the problem then keep looking and LISTENING. Shortly after I found a smaller hose in front with same issue and replaced that one as well(it was not causing performance issues though).

    I hope this helps someone and saves them some money too. Pass on the info to anyone else who is having same troubles.



    You saved my [non-permissible content removed].. the hole was right where you said it would be and in your second post you saved me from trying to find the part number for the hose. I have some duct tape on it and the parts on order.
    I can't thank you enough! God Bless the internet and those people who are willing to post their issue and their fix.

    Matt Caswell
    2004 Escape with over 112K on it
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