I have read so many conflicting threads on this for such a simple idea. Even the 3 dealers I have talked to don't have an idea. I am still wanting to make the corrections for the 265-70-17 Denali wheels I put on my 2001 Yukon in place of the 265-70-16 stock sizes. What do you mean the tech 2 will register on the link but not actually reprogram?
It does work! Itold you that's how I did mine, a guy did it in the parking lot at the GM plant I work at. It took10 minutes, and it is right on the money. I have paced a few cars with digital speedos and they all match mine. The changes have to be saved form the Tech 2 into the memory of the trucks computer, if not the change will not take. It clearly askes you if the tire size is correct, answer yes/no, and it will or won't change the settings. You do the change under the TIRE SIZE CALIBRATION menu. The menu title alone tells you that the tool can do it.
Here is a little help to make sure you really need to re adjust your speedo, it explains how to figure out tire sizes and compare them to each other.
Do you mean that if I bought the power programmer to use on my Yukon XL I can't use it on my Silverado, with the same engine? It actually stores the vin and will only work in that vehicle?! If so it's kind of a rip off in my opinion.
"It does work! Itold you that's how I did mine, a guy did it in the parking lot at the GM plant?"
A guy in the parking lot? How big was this machine. My dealers tech 2 is connected to a pretty large computer.
Yea the HPIII wouldnt be good for your silverado. Only way it would work is if you set all the settings on the XL back to stock. Then you could use it on the rado but the XL would have any of the programs anymore.
I am picking up my new 01 1/2 Ton 4x4 LT on Saturday that I ordered end of March. I wanted to buy the CD changer shown in back of the Suburban catalog from my dealer to add to the truck when I pick it up. The dealer discouraged me telling me that other customers have not been happy with this changer. The recommended I got to a stereo place and have one installed. This is a small family run dealership so I respect their opinion but I am curious what experience other Suburban owners have had with the GM CD changer. I would really like to get it since it looks like it has been engineered to work with the stereo and fit into the center console.
Just picked up my GMC Sierra C3 a couple weeks ago. Really love the truck, but I have two issues that neither my dealer, or any C3 owners I've found (at www.pickuptruck.com forums) have seen. The C3 is basically a Denali pickup, so perhaps you've seen these issues and can let me know what the fix was.
The first is the steering wheel mounted stereo controls. The mute button doesn't work. Press it, and the radio/cd/cassette is muted, but only for a couple seconds, then it comes back.
The second has to do with the lumbar support. Mine seems to pump itself up all the time. For me, the most comfortable seating position is with the lumbar and side bolsters completely deflated. But every time I get in the truck, I have to deflate them again.
Did the Tech 2 also correct the transmission shifting points? I am switching from the factory 265-70-16 to the Denali wheels 265-70-17. Someone told me that the Denali size is not programed into the tech 2, that I should go with a 265-75-16 which is programed in the tech 2 and is less that 1/2 of 1% different. Comments and any further details that I can print out and give to my service rep to read. Your help is greatly appreciated. Bob
If the computer adjusts by 1/4 inch increments, I'm confused. Presumably that is 1/4 inch in diameter. My YXL came with either Steeltex R4S or A/T depending on if you wanted off road tires. Either set is 245/75/16 and dealer said no change to system regardless of which tire you get. Diameter new is 30.4 for the R4S and 30.6 for the A/T -- 1/5 an inch difference. Since the tread depth is 14/32 on the R4S and 16/32 on the A/T, when worn out, both tires are the same diameter -- 29.65. Take the off road A/T's for instance, the margin of difference will be from 30.6 to 29.65 over the life of the tire, almost a full inch. Presumably if I change my tire size and the overall diameter difference is less than an inch, is there really a need to adjust the computer? It can't be that exact if the 245/75/16 tires from the factory are slightly different and the size changes almost an inch as the tires wear out. Am I way off base with this approach? I really don't plan on doing anything more than going up to 265's.
I ordered my base Suburban with trailering, traction and 4.10 on April 18. I just got my order "number", DHRSK6, with TPW of May 14. I'll have it before June! Pretty fast service.
After supposedly installing reprogramming with the tech2 and then checking the computer programing on another dealers computer the read out on tire size showed that the new tire size was installed. (Stock 245/75 vs. new 265/75) The reason I claim that it did not really take is by checking the odometer over a known mileage check. The odometer was not correct until I used the hypertech reprograming. The set up requires that you carefully mark your tire then roll one turn and measure the distance then divide by 3.1416 to obtain the true diameter which is input into the program in 1/4" selections. A 1 inch diff.in circumferance of a tire with aprox. 8foot cir. would make a differance of 55 feet in one mile.
Though the cold air is probably not a problem for those with the Auto Htr/AC controls now it will be come below 50 degree weather. Your dealer does supposedly have a supplement fix for this problem now. My fix was arbitration and GM buy-back. They paid me 2 May and am now proud owner of a Toyota Sequoia.
Just bought a new 2001 Suburban 4WD LS with several other options of which the Premium Ride Suspension is one. Does anyone have any idea what the make up of the suspension is vs the standard suspension. I assume the shock absorbers are part of the mix; any other differences?
Have ordered a copy of GMT01CK8 Shop Manuals. If no one answers you in the next ten days I will be glad to research this for you. Will look for a simple way to defeat the automatic lumbar support inflation. I`ll watch this area since someone may post an answer in the next day or ten. Helm advises my four volumes is in shipping dept. now. My guess is 6 to 10 days deliver time.
It took the hypertech programmer to get the odometer correct; mph difference between 245's and 265's is small enough that you won't see much differance on the speedo even at 75mph, thats less than 3mph.
A 1/4" diameter tire change is definitely noticeable in the speedo/odo. As Ryan said -- If you're outside the range of what GM supplied as stock, you'll need something like the HP-III to calibrate correctly. Also helps for fine tuning between tire brands. -- Don
I understand a 1/4 inch tire change may be noticeable, but my point is that it has to be something GM planned for in its programming. The tires that came with my truck have 16/32 of tread when new. Presumably when the truck was assembled the computer was set for the tires that came from the factory. As I wear these tires down (which is happening quite quickly) I will wear nearly a half inch off the tread depth before they are worn out. As I approach that worn out stage, I will have worn over 3/4 of an inch off the tire diameter. If a 1/4 inch difference is a reason to recalibrate, shouldn't the computer be recalibrated every 10k miles or so to adjust for the tire wear? Or, if GM expects there to be a 3/4 inch diameter change over the lifetime of the tire, then why should I get overly worried about going from an OEM tire with a 30.6 diameter (Firestone Steeltex A/T 245/75/16) to one with a 31.3 (B.F. Goodrich All-Terrain T/A 275/70/16)? I am not so concerned about the speedo or odometer as I can deal with that, I am more concerned with the ABS or any other "safety" related parameter.
I have visited this area several times since I started looking for a new minivan or SUV, and have found good info here. Now I would like to give back a little. I live in northern VA and just bought a LT with autoride.
In northern VA just about everyone is selling for about invoice. I telephone interviewed 12 dealers: 5 were unresponsive or thought unreliable for one reason or another, and the other 7, with some work, were from invoice to invoice + 200. Yukon XLs seem to run a bit higher, but I did investigated them as thoroughly.
The out the door price includes more than invoice, and some dealers played games with what invoice means. The invoice separately states the vehicle total (model+trim+acc, which of course you can calculate on your own), the cooperative advertisement fee, and the delivery freight charge. Line 310 of the invoice includes freight and coop advertising. Coop advertising is 1% of MSRP less freight so its about $400. Freight is $765 here. One dealer quoted a price of "invoice less $1000" plus freight, taxes, documentation, but used the 310 line for "invoice," thereby charging twice for freight. That and a very high doc fee, in addition to purposeful deception, erased any advantage.
In the numbers above I used the line 310 definition of invoice. In addition to that, doc fees are added (range 89 to 290, reasonable amount seems to be 150) and tag charges (about $49, which you can do on your own). Some try to stick you with "business license tax" - about $60.
Anyway, it's all negotiable, and it's out the door price (line 310 amount + docs + anything else) that matters. Around here I found that an out the out the door price of invoice (line 310) + $200 for EVERYTHING excluding sales tax, is clearly attainable.
In addition, as others here have mention, GM gives a $1000 rebate for former owners. Also $400 grad discount -- maybe some others.
By the way, the line 310 amount of the invoice is not the dealer cost, and the 3% holdback is not all the dealer earns on a car. Read the notes on the invoice. So, don't get caught up in the empathy play some dealers use - I'm only earning $200 on this car, salesman needs to get a commission, etc.
Interestingly, I looked into the BBB record of the dealers and found good correlation between BBB rating the dealer's level of dealing straight.
I just purchased a Suburban 4WD, and want to add skid plates -- did not find a vehicle with that option and all the others I wanted. Does anyone have info on this -- aftermarket vendor, pricing, is the vehicle pre-drilled, how many plates are there? When I spoke to the dealer, it seemed extremely expensive - $500-700 - relative to the option price. Any help appreciated, Vix
I just bought a Suburban, and am having lots of fun trying to figure everything out. One thing I noticed, the oil pressure gauge indicates about 60 to 70 psi when driving, about 45 when idling. It jumps around a bit when driving. I am used to a lower psi - any comments? I read somewhere that the middle seat head rests fold back when the middle seat is folded up for more cargo space. But the version I have does not seem to let the head rests fold back, and therefore requires one to move the front seats forward. Are the head rests supposed to fold back?
I was informed friday that my Z71 shipped from the factory to the "upfitter's" on April 27th. My question is, how long from the time yours left the factory until you took delivery?
My eddie Bauer expedition lease just expired so I was dying for the truck. Talked the dealer into going and getting it off the train myself...literally..and driving it to the dealer (63 miles) so they could wash it, inspect it and redeliver it to me. Pre delivery inspection was not done, so takes these comments as interesting but not indicative of how the truck was really delivered AFTER the PDI done by the dealer. Probs--Steering wheel turned off center to the left, play in steering of one inch; RR door wouldnt unlock or open from inside or out; compass/temp buttons on mirror were hooked together and did the identical thing instead of their discrete functions; cassette player on invoice with upgraded radio--but the cassette player not there; But what a truck!! Great smooth ride, much smoother than my 99 expedition 4x4.....quiet as a mouse. Gorgeous inside. I couldnt be happier....even if I got to see some things the mexican assembly folks screwed up that i wasnt supposed to see.
Helm seems to be the ONLY distributor for the true GM service manual set. The current set is GMT01CK8 which sells for $120.00 plus ship of $6.50. The set was four thick manuals and sold for the same price last several years. Ship went up 50 cents. Others sell general repair guides but are not as detailed as the true factory set. Of course the set covers the Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL and the Denali. In my lowly opinion and my brothers ( Don ) no other source will give you so much info. " Anyho " enjoy your new truck and SMILE. :c) Irv.
m5steve: You're the first person I have heard from on the lumbar support mysteriously inflating. It does the same to me. Are you large framed? I am 6'3" and about 240lbs and I think the lumbar support switch is activated as I swing my leg out of the seat. The upper part of the switch inflates both the bolsters and lumbar, while the lower section of the switch deflates both.
I also prefer the lumbar and bolsters fully "deflated". The only solution I can think of is to disconnect the switch or possibly have the dealer flip the position of the switch 180 degrees (maybe it can be done without the dealer, although I haven't tried yet).
Your mute switch simply seems to not be functioning properly as my 2001 Denali XL radio steering wheel controls work exactly as they should.
Looked at a nice new base model Suburban at Huffines Chevrolet - Lewisville, TX. I am not into a lot of the fancy options. But Huffines in Lewisville is the only dealer in the area that sells a Tahoe equipped like this. Base model + cloth + Front and Rear A/C + power windows + second seat. With loyalty rebate around $26K.
Just curious which dealers are good in your opinion in N.VA. I'm looking at getting one of these vehicles soon. Still deciding between the the Yukon XL or the Suburban.
For the dealers where I checked BBB, there was a good correlation between my experience and their BBB rating - ie., the ones that tended to be less straight forward in the way they described their pricing had worse BBB ratings, ie., problems with other customers for whatever reasons. It doesn't mean you don't deal with them, just be prepared. "Good" is a bit subjective...
I ordered my 2001 Z71 Burb (White) on March 1st. Dealer contacted me on April 12th to advise it had been built (Silao, Mexico) and shipped to Starcraft Vans Plant in Elkhart, Indiana for final Z71 cosmetic work. It was then railed to California, with eta of April 24th. It arrived one day early, the 23rd. It sat in the rail yard in San Bernardino for several days and was finally trucked to dealer on April 30th. I picked it up on May 1st. Still breaking it in, about 300 miles on it. She runs like a charm and no problems yet....
Does anyone have experience I/ what it takes to remove a door dig? We parked our brand new Pewter YXL in the last parking space at the end of a parking lot and some low life in a brand new Pewter Tahoe whacked our side door. The clearcoat and paint were not scratched too bad but there is a very good "dig" in the metal. A crease about 1" long. The moron in the Tahoe did not even bother to move to a different spot. You could see the paint chip on the edge of the door.
There are some companies that do ding removals by pushing out the dings. My Disco suffered hail damage a few years ago and the hood just looks like the surface of a golf ball and it took them one day to fix that plus some minor dings removed. You couldn't tell that the hood was ever damaged. No painting was involved.
Sorry if this is a repetitive topic. I've priced both cars (AL ST $300 higher than Bur CT) and need to decide by tomorrow due to low inventory on the features I want. It seems to me there is very little if any difference between the two trucks. The AL has nicer leather but is there anything else differentiating the two? The salesman was trying to tell me the AL is better at reducing sound and a friend thought that the AL was a fighter drive. Any feedback is appreciated.
I'm not sure what happened with the spell check function in the message above, but the 2 cars I was comparing are the Yukon XL SLT and the Suburban LT.
Having driven the vehicle for substantial miles with and without correct calibration and detecting no problems with the braking under normal circumstances I would say that there is no effect. But after making that statement I wish I had simulated a panic stop situation so as to be able to properly comment on any percieved difference. I may make a few panic stops with and without the proper programming and report the results.
A local tire dealer told me a couple of years ago that you can go above the factory rolling diameter by 5% without affecting the ABS. I don't know if this is still true. I checked again at my local Chevy dealer and he swears up and down the Tech 2 will re program the ABS on our '00. He said that 285/75 16s would be no problem - I've asked him on two separate visits and got the same answer. Even told him I heard you needed a code from GM - he said no. I'm going to have him try before I swap out the tires, just to make sure. I really don't care about the speedo - I can compensate for that. When the radar detector goes off, I go 5 under anyway.
Been away from this chat room for a loooooooong time...I have a loaded 2000 Sub LT that we have customized pretty well...18x9 AXIS rims, P285/60/R18 Bridgestone Duelers, Video Monitors in headrests, VCP under seat, custom paint, blah blah blah...
1. We had accumulated 3 dings (actually 2 dings and 1 crease) up high on the drivers side rear 1/4 panel. No other marks on the truck made the three tightly bunched marks a mystery. I live in NY and we have a friend who owns a DentX. They do paintless dent and ding removal. He came over and within 15 minutes he got all the damage removed! He went in through the wheel well. For door dings he takes off the panel and works it that way from the inside. I watched and he used tools like a locksmith. Long rods, etc. The truck is perfect. No way you can tell and I am PICKY! Anyway, the going rate is anywhere from $75 to $150 per panel. He really took 15 minutes. Unreal!
2. I thought my wife kept inflating the lumbar supports, but she swears she isn't. She drives the Sub 75% so I always thought she was making herself comfortable. When I asked she looked at my with that 'what lumbar support' look that only your wife can give you. How is it possible that these things inflate themselves.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, have been out of town. Dealer is full of it the Tech 2 is a HAND HELD unit, it is all self contained. It gets its power through the ALDL connector under the dash, and is NOT connected to a big computer. It is only about 10" tall, and 6" wide, and about 1.5" thick. Extremly portable! Don't think the dealer knows jack about what he is talking about. If I can sneak my camera into the plant I will get a picture and post it. Very strickt on camers, not sure how the guy got the Tech 2 out, but...
The GM cd changers are made by Pioneer, and I have had 2 Pioneer changers and have been very happy with both. Dealer prices are high, but if you want to run the changer through the radio head unit, and have OnStar, the GM changer is the only one that will work with OnStar. There is a company that makes a "protocol converter" that changes GM talk into Kenwood talk, and it messes up the OnStar, I tried it. Luckily I had a guy at work that bought the setup from me for his truck. A "wye" adapter will be needed if you want to keep the tape deck. Otherwise any aftermarket CD changer will work if you want to use an FM modulator, and have the extra control laying around.
I am not sure if it adjusted any of the trans mission stuff. It shifts at the same speeds as before. The guy at work said it sets the whole system up for the larger tire size. The Tech 2 has every tire size in there from 16" rim size up to 19" rim size and ALL tire sizes. It is for the guys that jack their trucks up and put the big monster truck tires on them. If the guy you know cant get into it to program 17" tires in it he either doesn't know what he is doing or needs to try and trick the tool into thinking it is on a Denali.
Comments
Here is a little help to make sure you really need to re adjust your speedo, it explains how to figure out tire sizes and compare them to each other.
drb2002 "MY2001+ GMC Yukon Denali/Yukon XL Denali" Apr 30, 2001 3:19pm
A guy in the parking lot? How big was this machine. My dealers tech 2 is connected to a pretty large computer.
Yea the HPIII wouldnt be good for your silverado. Only way it would work is if you set all the settings on the XL back to stock. Then you could use it on the rado but the XL would have any of the programs anymore.
Ryan
Just picked up my GMC Sierra C3 a couple weeks ago. Really love the truck, but I have two issues that neither my dealer, or any C3 owners I've found (at www.pickuptruck.com forums) have seen. The C3 is basically a Denali pickup, so perhaps you've seen these issues and can let me know what the fix was.
The first is the steering wheel mounted stereo controls. The mute button doesn't work. Press it, and the radio/cd/cassette is muted, but only for a couple seconds, then it comes back.
The second has to do with the lumbar support. Mine seems to pump itself up all the time. For me, the most comfortable seating position is with the lumbar and side bolsters completely deflated. But every time I get in the truck, I have to deflate them again.
Any ideas??
they wanted $600 for a 6 disc installed in my truck.
265-70-17
on any of their vehicles? (i am not quite sure)
If the answer is yes then they can reprogram it. If they say no tell them to call technical assistance. They will help them out
Ryan
see
http://www.obd-2.com/
The set up requires that you carefully mark your tire then roll one turn and measure the distance then divide by 3.1416 to obtain the true diameter which is input into the program in 1/4" selections. A 1 inch diff.in circumferance of a tire with aprox. 8foot cir. would make a differance of 55 feet in one mile.
Helm advises my four volumes is in shipping dept. now. My guess is 6 to 10 days deliver time.
Irv. ( Filling in for Don. 4341 )
-- Don
In northern VA just about everyone is selling for about invoice. I telephone interviewed 12 dealers: 5 were unresponsive or thought unreliable for one reason or another, and the other 7, with some work, were from invoice to invoice + 200. Yukon XLs seem to run a bit higher, but I did investigated them as thoroughly.
The out the door price includes more than invoice, and some dealers played games with what invoice means. The invoice separately states the vehicle total (model+trim+acc, which of course you can calculate on your own), the cooperative advertisement fee, and the delivery freight charge. Line 310 of the invoice includes freight and coop advertising. Coop advertising is 1% of MSRP less freight so its about $400. Freight is $765 here. One dealer quoted a price of "invoice less $1000" plus freight, taxes, documentation, but used the 310 line for "invoice," thereby charging twice for freight. That and a very high doc fee, in addition to purposeful deception, erased any advantage.
In the numbers above I used the line 310 definition of invoice. In addition to that, doc fees are added (range 89 to 290, reasonable amount seems to be 150) and tag charges (about $49, which you can do on your own). Some try to stick you with "business license tax" - about $60.
Anyway, it's all negotiable, and it's out the door price (line 310 amount + docs + anything else) that matters. Around here I found that an out the out the door price of invoice (line 310) + $200 for EVERYTHING excluding sales tax, is clearly attainable.
In addition, as others here have mention, GM gives a $1000 rebate for former owners. Also $400 grad discount -- maybe some others.
By the way, the line 310 amount of the invoice is not the dealer cost, and the 3% holdback is not all the dealer earns on a car. Read the notes on the invoice. So, don't get caught up in the empathy play some dealers use - I'm only earning $200 on this car, salesman needs to get a commission, etc.
Interestingly, I looked into the BBB record of the dealers and found good correlation between BBB rating the dealer's level of dealing straight.
Addison
Does anyone have info on this -- aftermarket vendor, pricing, is the vehicle pre-drilled, how many plates are there?
When I spoke to the dealer, it seemed extremely expensive - $500-700 - relative to the option price.
Any help appreciated,
Vix
I read somewhere that the middle seat head rests fold back when the middle seat is folded up for more cargo space. But the version I have does not seem to let the head rests fold back, and therefore requires one to move the front seats forward. Are the head rests supposed to fold back?
thanks,
Vix
Vix
Others sell general repair guides but are not as detailed as the true factory set. Of course the set covers the Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL and the Denali. In my lowly opinion and my brothers ( Don ) no other source will give you so much info.
" Anyho " enjoy your new truck and SMILE. :c)
Irv.
I also prefer the lumbar and bolsters fully "deflated". The only solution I can think of is to disconnect the switch or possibly have the dealer flip the position of the switch 180 degrees (maybe it can be done without the dealer, although I haven't tried yet).
Your mute switch simply seems to not be functioning properly as my 2001 Denali XL radio steering wheel controls work exactly as they should.
Just curious which dealers are good in your opinion in N.VA. I'm looking at getting one of these vehicles soon. Still deciding between the the Yukon XL or the Suburban.
Dave
Vix
I ordered my 2001 Z71 Burb (White) on March 1st. Dealer contacted me on April 12th to advise it had been built (Silao, Mexico) and shipped to Starcraft Vans Plant in Elkhart, Indiana for final Z71 cosmetic work. It was then railed to California, with eta of April 24th. It arrived one day early, the 23rd. It sat in the rail yard in San Bernardino for several days and was finally trucked to dealer on April 30th. I picked it up on May 1st. Still breaking it in, about 300 miles on it. She runs like a charm and no problems yet....
Thanks
I may make a few panic stops with and without the proper programming and report the results.
They do need a code from tech assistance. They have to give them the vin to get the code.
Looks like I have about 9 more days to wait. Btw, I ordered mine on Feb. 27th.
1. We had accumulated 3 dings (actually 2 dings and 1 crease) up high on the drivers side rear 1/4 panel. No other marks on the truck made the three tightly bunched marks a mystery. I live in NY and we have a friend who owns a DentX. They do paintless dent and ding removal. He came over and within 15 minutes he got all the damage removed! He went in through the wheel well. For door dings he takes off the panel and works it that way from the inside. I watched and he used tools like a locksmith. Long rods, etc. The truck is perfect. No way you can tell and I am PICKY! Anyway, the going rate is anywhere from $75 to $150 per panel. He really took 15 minutes. Unreal!
2. I thought my wife kept inflating the lumbar supports, but she swears she isn't. She drives the Sub 75% so I always thought she was making herself comfortable. When I asked she looked at my with that 'what lumbar support' look that only your wife can give you. How is it possible that these things inflate themselves.
Bill