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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • I can see why you like the barn doors because in the past the barn doors were superior... the lift gate on the old style Subs and Tahoes folded DOWN, which made it extremely difficult to reach into the bed... unless of course you are over 6 feet tall. It was good, however, for sitting on when you were tailgating at a ball game or whatnot. However, on the new style the lift gate is far superior in every respect... looks, blind spot, functionality (you can lift just the glass or the whole gate), etc. Dealers had trouble in the beginning keeping up with the lift gate orders as they assumed the people would continue to favor the barn doors. Eventually people realized that the lift gate was better and the dealers ordered stock accordingly. Give the lift gate a chance, it is an example of GM engineers finally getting something right! Regards, Bill
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Glad you like it. Each to his own. That is why options exist. My wife chose the cargo doors on her '99 Tahoe and on her '01 Suburban because she did not like the "stupid" window wiper on the rear glass (that is what she said). When it get dirty, we simply wash it off. She had a '91 Blazer with the tailgate and could not reach into the rear cargo area because the tailgate stuck out too far. (She is 5'2"). With the liftgate, things roll out the back when the gate is in the open position, whereas on the cargo door, one can open one door at the time. (The separate lift glass is of no practical value for her since she can not reach in and touch the bottom to retrieve anything).

    I personally like the option of an open rear end without worrying about doors or gates, like beds without shells. I have a '00 Silverado LT Ext Cab.
  • zeenzeen Posts: 401
    New GM incentives announced today on large SUV's
  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    it's still not as easy to get stuff onto roof racks or into pods with the lift gate. At least not without hauling around a stepladder. I find it far easier to put stuff on the roof when I stand in the back with the barn doors open. JMHO.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    At Home Depot last Saturday, I loaded 4 sheets of plywood and half a dozen 10 foot 4 inch posts onto the roof rack (of our 95 Sub) by opening the barn doors and standing on the bumper. I took them off without opening the doors but putting an old blanket over the back to prevent any scratching. Both worked pretty well. The only thing I dislike about the barn doors is the blindspot in the middle as you look through the rear view mirror.

    At a local Chevy dealer, the display floor model has the liftgate up - you can easily walk under it without bumping your head. I wonder if smaller women have difficulty pulling it back down.

    Excursion has an interesting arrangement with barn doors on the bottom half and a window that swings up on the top.

    Ken
  • sbrown8243sbrown8243 Posts: 10
    I would like to look for a new suburban for my wife. She likes "victory red" exterior and tan leather interior. Is there one website where you can go to and put in these specs and it will tell you what dealers in your regional area have a vehicle already on the lot that is a match? I know the dealers have their own websites that include their inventory, but I was hoping to save myself some time with some one-stop shopping.
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    Go to GM Web Site and use the Power Search. Put in a zip code and get the local dealers inventory. Works real nice. I went to the US Postal Service and got a Zip code page and kept expanding my search till I found the one I wanted in Charleston, SC. I live in Florida. Did the deal over the internet and telephone. Skipjack 2
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    It really is to each, their own on this issue, but I wanted to cast my vote. I chose the barndoors for the following reasons: 1. Clearance / access to my Yakima Rocket Box on the roof ( I have it so it overhangs slightly, and on my old Honda Passport, the liftglass would hit the box and not open fully). 2. It's easier for me to open a door, than open a liftgate to toss things in the back. (Yes, I know that the glass flips up, but when you have the cargo cover in place, you really can't just toss things in under it through the glass opening.) 3. THE MOST IMPORTANT: My wife is just under 5' tall, 105 lbs. Trying to close a liftgate with the truck pitched forward 30 degrees in driveway just didn't work. (It was funny watching her jump to grab the liftgate to try to pull it down , though.) Even on level ground, it was tough for her to close the liftgate.

    Things I dislike: 1. The blind spot in the middle (I've gotten used to it, no different than the 2 second delay going into reverse from drive). 2. No rear wiper and having to clean the back glass often.
  • rtomaniortomanio Posts: 2
    Looking for information on problems with differential on 2001 Yukon XL. After a 10 hour trip towing our camper (7,000lbs max), well below max terrible smell from differential. Dealer changed fluid, which they said had terrible odor, but no worn parts, metal shavings, etc. Truck has 6,000 miles. Odor is still a problem and does not seem to be dissipating. Any help would be appreciated.
  • sbrown8243sbrown8243 Posts: 10
    Thanks for the help. I'll give it a try.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    GM reportedly to increase vehicle discounts in bid to reduce inventories (including incentives on the Suburban).

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    I remember reading about several fixes to eliminate wind noise from the front windshield. I went back through the posts but could not find the solutions. I seem to remember someone saying that the rubber gasket was removed and silicon was placed abound the edge of the windshield and then the gasket was re attached. Any help is appreciated.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Try the silverado topic in the pickup forum

    alot of guys have had this fixed and they can help you out

    Ryan
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    Steve:

    My Suburban is being built this week. Will be coming in 10 days. Could hit this brief incentive. Though there will probably be more in the summer.

    I'm buying a Suburban for the $1000 Loyalty discount tomorrow, I think.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Sure you want to do that? You could buy a lot of boats and sticks for that kind of dough :-)

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    On the new models if you order, the lift gate is standard, and the barn doors are a no charge option. The new lift gates are also aluminium, so they are lighter to lift requiring lower support strut pressures, translating into easier closing.

    One thing I have to say about the barn doors is if you tow a boat or even some trailers, you simply can't open the whole lift gate when hooked up, only the glass. I have this problem with my boat, I made a platform that bolts to the trailer so I can open the glass and get to whatever is in the back. I know that Reese Hitch makes a 18" extender, but I don't trust that for regular towing, I just use it to help launch the boat, keeps the rear end and tail pipe out of the water.

    I still love the lift gate for regular everyday stuff, just that one gripe. To each his/her own I guess.
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    For 2001, if you choose the barndoors, a credit (deduct)is given back to you for that option. Although the liftgate is standard, you end up paying more for it than the barndoors. The difference is only a couple of hundred dollars. This was changed for 2001 - for the 2000's there was no cost difference.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    When I ordered my '01 Suburban (3/16/01), the liftgate was a $250 option, while the cargo doors were standard at no extra cost. ZW9 cargo doors, E52 liftgate/liftglass.
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    Wife told me we had to have one new car! I like my old wagons and even found a couple of low mileage mid-90s Caprices that I bought. But she is unbending. We had a rough winter/spring. We literally had one of our wagons in the shop from the end of December until the day before yesterday. I can't blame her.

    As you hint, the reason that we have not had any new cars is that all our money was spent on canoes, kayaks, paddles and equipment.

    For me, kayaking is the equivalent of:
    "If the only tool you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail."

    Kayaking can fix all kinds of things, but it can't fix a transmission or a blown head gasket.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    That's a very interesting comment - I wouldn't have thought of it. I can't imagine how many times I've reopened the barn doors while hitched up in order to find this or load that or dig for some other thing already stored.

    Ken
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    01 Sub 2500 LT at 400 miles. I noticed a burning electical smell when beginning a weekend trip. I felt the radio area and it was very hot (approx 120-130 degrees). On the return trip at 1200 miles, the radio and ONSTAR failed to function. The only power in that area of the instrument panel was to the clock. No radio, no CD, no tape, no cell phone, no ONSTAR, no emergency function on the ONSTAR. I checked all the fuses in the radio circuit. The next morning (after cooling all night), everything is working just fine. So the question is 'Which relay is taking the system down due to the thermal overload and where is the heat coming from?'

    Thanks ya'll. I should get a response to my service requests today. The suburban is in the shop for (1) the hot radio, (2) brake pedal travels to floor, (3) squeaking passenger door and (4) engine misfiring under load (feels like trash in fuel). 1200 miles and this is all the trouble so far.

    Note: To all with the mushy, brake pedal to floor. There is a section in the service manual describing the situation. On a new vehicle, it is either a bad master cylinder, vacuum booster or accumulator.

    My '00 Silverado did not have the brake problem initially, but has just developed the problem. I'll take it to the shop soon with a print out of the section of the service manual to avoid the "they all do that" syndrome.

    I also WD-40ed my hinges without any change in sound. It appears to be from flexing of the metal spring that puts tension on the door closer.

    BRAKE TEST:
    If you have the engine off and depress the brake pedal 3 times, then stand on it, the pedal should not go down more than 2.75 inches according to the service manual. If the engine is on, the pedal should also not go more than 2.75 inches. Mine slowly travels to the full stop position (approx 1 inch from the floor). This is indicative of a bad master cylinder (internal leakage), or a bad vacuum booster.
    This is off course assuming that there is not sign of external leakage as evidenced by drips of hydraulic fluid (GM manual says that a wet master cylinder is a normal condition but not drops, go figure). I don't want any hydrauic fluid anyplace except in the lines and master cylinder.

    Ok here is the rest of the story. You are correct that there is a small fan on the back of the radio similar to the fan on most PC's. When I picked up the Sub yesterday, the only thing that was fixed was the driver's door was lubricated but it was not squeaking. It was the passenger door that was squeaking and still is (I gave the service writer a written list of my complaints and he couldn't even write it up correctly). Every complaint was followed with "designed to work that way" (see attached-work order).

    The brakes are going to the floor stop, with constant pressure while the engine is on. There is a procedure in the shop manual which specifically deals with this symptom (Vol 1, section 5-17 and 5-18). Basically the problem is a bad master cylinder or vacuum booster but the response is "designed to work that way" See attach procedure

    I have just filed a complaint with the GM Customer service to document the hot radio and burning smell, and bad brakes in case the vehicle burns up and kills me or I run into someone. I'll have documentation to sue them with.
  • slipperyslippery Posts: 7
    Has any one gone the aftermarket air intake,catback exhaust,computer reprogramer route with there Yukon XL or Suburban yet? I am looking for more power in that 35 to 60 MPH range where my YXL is a real dog and wont down shift properly.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    dont use WD-40

    it is recommended to use white lithium grease very inexpensive and works well.

    Ryan
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    The brakes on the 2500 Yukon XL, and Suburban does not use a vacuum booster. It is on a Hydro Boost system, at least that's what dodge used to call it. The system uses the power steering pump and fluid, to run the brake booster, not engine vacuum. It could possibly be a master cyl., I have 4500 miles on my 2500 YXL with no problems at all. Where was yours built? Just curious, mine was built in Mexico.
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    I had a lot of windshield noise before installing my lund trident bug deflector, now I have more noise. The dealer's advise was to remove the bug shield. What have others done? Thanks
  • wylie7wylie7 Posts: 1
    We're considering buying a Suburban to handle our camping excursions better. We're used to the lower clearance of a minivan. Anyone have any comments on 1) how easy is it for a medium size dog (about 50 lbs) to get in and out given the higher ground clearance and 2) how do the leather seats hold up with a dogs claws (do we really need to stay with cloth seats)?
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    Boy is it frustrating. I upgraded my 01 Suburban from 245/75/16 to 265/75/16's. The dealership that installed the tires, said they had adjusted my computer. I was about 3 miles faster at 70 MPH than the speedometer indicated, by GPS measurement. This is exactly what the tire upgrade chart says my error would be, if no adjustment is made. I then took it to my local dealership, who said they could adjust it, and when I came back for the truck, they said it was already adjusted and they didn't do anything. I discussed it with the service manager and he said he had a person that knows how to do it right and I made an appointment to leave the truck with them today. When I picked it up, I asked if they had any trouble. He said "No problem at all". In 15 minutes, I could tell, nothing has changed.
    So I have to get up to about 57.5 MPH before the overdrive kicks in in TOW/Haul mode. Thats when my speedometer reads 55 MPH, the shift point. The 265's should be acceptable to GM for an upgrade. I don't think they have anyone who knows how to do it a the dealer level. What can I do to get my Speedometer adjusted correctly???? Its supposed to be possible to make this adjustment and get an accurate reading and also adjust other perimeters. Any input appreciated.
    Skipjack 2
  • sliprocksliprock Posts: 1
    I am having problems with the brakes not engaging in emergency situations. I hit the brake pedal and there is nothing there. It goes to the floor. If I release and pump the brake it comes back. I have had too many near misses and one collision to think that this is definitely a mechanical problem. Has anybody heard of any recalls or patches that are available.

    Also, does anyone else have a tapping sound in their engine. The dealership has put one recommended patch on the control module and it is only getting worse. I have a 454 (7.4L) with 46,000 miles on it. It has been making this noise for almost 2 years. The only answer I get is that GM redesigned the engine and that this noise is normal. I have never heard of an engine making this much noise being "normal"
  • sloanesqsloanesq Posts: 60
    I just made a deal on a new Suburban. Delivery will be next friday, May 25 - can't wait!! Do I still qualify for the rebate if it comes out before I take delivery?
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    You think your dealer is an idiot, I talked with a service manager today about reclabrating my new 17" Denali wheels on my yukon xl and he said the truck senses the speed of the vehicle and tire size and automatically adjusts to the correct setting. What could I say but I will get back to you. The guy had no clue.
  • snug38snug38 Posts: 6
    I am having my first problem with my 2001 suburban 2500 with 600 miles. The HomeLink Transmitter (garage door opener) has lost power. No indicator light. Does anyone know where the fuse is located and how it is labeled?
  • gritchgritch Posts: 3
    Where can we read more about recent rebates/discounts. I am ready to take delivery of a Youkon XL and do not want to miss out. At the present time I only know of the loyalty discount which I understand lasts until June 30.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Edmunds' incentive information is updated as soon as possible. Manufacturers with current programs are listed here.

    When an incentive or rebate program expires, manufacturers do not always renew or revise them immediately. Just as new car pricing is competitive, so are rebate programs, and carmakers often wait to see what their competitors will do before announcing new programs.

    The upshot is that Edmunds may not always have the latest information on the day that you need it.

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • seattlesamseattlesam Posts: 3
    Picked up my 2001 Yukon XL Denali from Dave Smith Motors, Kellogg, Idaho yesterday. $218 over invoice minus $1000 GM loyalty rebate AND MINUS $1000 NEW GM REBATE effective 5/15/01. They tried to find a dealer trade, couldn't, so factory ordered for me on 3/9/01, built 4/25/01, delivered to dealer 5/8/01, and picked up yesterday, 5/17/01. Even though had factory ordered vehicle, new additional rebate still applicable. Highly recommend this dealship. This is my 4th suburban (1st Yukon XL), and by far best buying experience. Professional, low key, and knowledgeable. Brad Hathaway did a great job for me. Kept me informed all the way. Garnet Red with Pewter interior.

    Thanks to all who have contributed to this forum. Learned a lot and was able to spot the dealers who were serious and those who weren't. Special thanks to CW Martin, Don, and Irv. What great knowledge these guys have for the not so mechanically inclined and for those who might get intimidated at the point of sale.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    picked up a new Subn 4wd LT ( Black) for my wife with liftgate 2 1/2 wks ago.... that's what she wanted ( 5'2" and no problem reaching it).got the $1K Loyalty rebate ... I have a '99 Subn with Barn Doors..the liftgate wins in my book after having lived with mine for over two years now.... had a '97 Expedition before that with liftgate.. the only way to go ( for me at least).. thought about a new Excursion for me recently .but .hate those dutch doors + liftglass.. 2 barn doors are bad enuff.. but three including liftglass would be he!!.. I guess to each his own...


    after we picked up her new 'bourbon.. the dealer called me about a week later to let me know about a new program GM is coming out with for old Leases on Suburbans and Tahoes.. maybe others.. wasn't totally updated on full program details other than it goes into effect for the month of June only.. anyone with a GMAC lease on a Suburban & Tahoe after 3/1/99 can get out of it with no penalty and no owed monies on '99 models...in other words ..a walkaway deal IF you get another '01 Suburban or Tahoe... that's what he said.. supposedly I'm to get a letter direct from GMAC very soon with complete details.. sorry about details being fuzzy but that's all I have so far... will update when I get further info..


    evidently those new Rebates are targeted for certain regions.. from what I can see it's the western GM region.. this article elaborates a little more than the prior Autonews.com article.. mentions western Region.. so it seems like only rebate left is for $1K Loyalty program for most of U.S... By the way.. the loyalty program can be used more than once but expires on 6/30/01.. I checked with Chevy and the dealer on that..

     http://biz.yahoo.com/rf/010515/n15302270.html


    Steve-host.. a question ??If you happen to know .... why did Edmunds do away with their old method of posting Customer Rebates as well as Dealer Incentives.. their new method leaves a lot to be desired especially with eliminating the Dealer Incentives part, compared to that 'old way' of just listing ALL the Customer Rebates and Dealer Incentives on one long page....???

  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    I'd kinda forgotten about that. Some improvements were supposedly in the works, and I thought a "printer friendly" version of all the incentives was going to be available. Drew? (I think I'm having another senior moment)

    Here's the last news that I could find:
    melissa "Talk to the Hosts" Apr 4, 2001 8:41am

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • murmurmusicmurmurmusic Posts: 13
    Can anyone help me with some basic towing info? I have a 2001 1500LT (no autoride). I'm not looking to do much towing at all, but occassionally things like a cement mixer rental, or a flatbed for taking the riding mower to the shop etc... The vehicle came with nothing that goes in the square towing reciever. What exactly to I need to purchase to be in business for the most casual towing?? What ball hitch size is standard? What do I attach the ball hitch to? Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    If you already have the square towing receiver, you are almost there. Did your LT come with the trailering option? This includes the receiver and wiring. This would mean that you have the round 7 connector probably. Go to a place that installs trailer hitches. They can sell you a draw bar and ball. The 2" ball is pretty common. Some older, smaller trailers had 1 7/8". A problem can be which draw bar. They have various drops/rises (depends on how you install the ball) so that it matches up to the trailer being towed. An adjustable draw bar can also be purchased. Second, I would get a 7 round to flat 4 adapter so that you could tow a trailer with either the round or flat wiring.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Wow - 2 Suburbans - that's a driveway full! I can't imagine trying to keep up with the washing and waxing on two of these babies! I do my wife's Suburban and my Bonneville and am very glad to have the job done with.

    What are some of the differences you notice going back and forth between the 99 and 01? Anything on the older one you prefer to the newer model?

    Ken
  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    Skipjack,
    You will not be able to get the dealer to reprogram for a differant diameter tire/wheel configuration as the new models must have a code supplied from tech support before parameters can be adjusted from factory settings. This I know very well first hand because I fought the system steadily for three months before conceding defeat. This problem is not at the dealer level but a corporate policy mandated by the federal bueracracy generated by the continuing liberalization of our country. If you think I'm crazy then you really don't have any conception of the power that the liberals in the EPA have over our U.S. Manufacturers.
    Enough of that: you can now buy a hypertech 3 programer which will reprogram your computer to new tire size parameters within 1/4" of actual circumferance and adjust other parameters as well; about $325.00. P.S. I really detest the libs for what they have done to a once God fearing and moral country.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    like I said my '99 is a White one K1500 4wd.. easy to keep clean.. or at least the dirt doesn't show as easily as on my wife's new Black '01 K1500 4wd.. she likes the newer rounded styling.. to me it was made with the 'mommies' in mind.. as that is a large part of the sales marketing by Chevy..get those 'mommies' out of their vans and into that big profit-margin 'bourbon

    I happen to like the front seats in my old '99 better .. both are LT's & have leather Captain's Chairs.. mine are more comfortable and are bigger and with more padding both in the seat and the backing.... the seats in the new 'bourbon are those wrap around new style with a lot less padding.... I prefer the older style ...heck it's a truck..not a sports car.. even though my wife doesn't and won't say it's a truck.." it's an SUV" she says.. yeah right..!!

    no matter what Chevy says or what the hype the salesmen give.. that newer one is smaller inside.. must be the rounded styling as compared to my '99 box/square styling.... also I like my 40 gallon gas tank.. by taking the spare tire out of the inside left-rear and putting it below.. sure didn't add anymore room.. a waste and loss of a large gas tank..

    AND the worst thing they did in the new LT Suburban was to put that awful addition to the center console over the front hump...for what ....just to hold a cassette player and a piddlee storage compartment... what a waste of good space.. and you can't dump it as an non-option..only recourse is to get an LS.. I tried..

    the new liftglass is to my liking in the '01.. I have the barn doors that are a pain.. the '01 is quicker & peppier than my '99...

    she got the rear bucket seats.. I prefer my old rear bench seat.. only for the room they provide when they lay flat without a missing center piece.. so far my wife loves her new 'bourbon..moonroof and all...that's all that matters.. it's hers .. I just play chauffeur every now and then...

    If they made the old style rather than the new style like my ('99) I'd buy/lease one in a minute again .. my '99 now has 44K miles on it and is nearing it's lease end in less then 10 months... I guess I'll bite the bullet and settle for a new version ( probably a Z71-- black) IF they give me a 'deal'..the newer version is definitely 'prettier'...here we go again.. catering to those 'mommies' :) otherwise.. I'll either buy mine off the lease or see if Ford will deal on another Expedition again ( I had one in '97)..

    with the way things are, the Excursion is out as a replacement for me.. those triple rear doors/liftglass are abominable .. and I believe Ford missed the boat in this day and age by building the Excursion on a F250 frame at about 8K pounds getting 7-10?? mpg with that underpowered V10 of theirs ( wouldn't get a diesel)..but heck, the darn thing is really big and nice inside.. I've driven a couple and like their looks both inside and out.. it is a true Truck though..

    what it comes down to .. I just resist change.. but heck that new Z71 is sure nice.. in black of course.. :)
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    thanx for that link.. thought I was the only one out here that missed that easily accessed Rebates and Incentives old page..rather than go to each individual Make and model and clicking on drop down menus..

    it sure was a lot quicker accessing the info ALL at once PLUS seeing the Dealer Incentives that are now missing

    thanx again for getting back to me about it..
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Thanks for the side by side comp - very interesting. You sure are right about women driving these "trucks". I see far more women drivers than men - and most of them are pretty nice looking too! The Excursion is a sorry excuse for a competitor for the 'bourbon' and I bet the lease return units coming on the market next year will have depreciated incredibly.

    I hadn't realized the gas tanks were downsized. Our 42 gallon bathtub can take us from here in Maine all the way to Va before needing a long drink. BTW - ours is a 95 LS.

    Thanks again for the info.

    Ken
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Not sure about that either, aside from the message that you linked to.


    Drew
    Host
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  • sloanesqsloanesq Posts: 60
    Moss6, you should let Rush Limbaugh know about that he's always looking for more anti-liberal ammunition :) BTW, isn't it funny how the liberal democrats, who are always complaining about the gas-guzzling SUV's, are now complaining (and blaming Bush) about the high cost of gas? And here I thought they were all morally obligated to drive a Toyota Prius.
  • tawoetawoe Posts: 2
    rtomanio: GM bought back my 99 Tahoe for 11 repairs by 9 dealers in 5 states. Now I have 3/4 Sub. The diff is heavier and holds more fluid. I found only 1 dealer honest enough to tell me the 1/2 ton can pull the spec load around the block, but don't bank on a long haul. (That honesty earned my 3 1/2 hour drive to order my 01 Sub.) That's a roll of the dice - some 1500 do, some don't. Check back of the manual for BB procedures and start gathering info. I found several on bulletin bds with this problem when towing. I hope to try my 3/4 on a Yellowstone - Grand Canyon trip in a few weeks. (It's last years trip the Tahoe failed for.)
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    and you'll probably find the Rushmobile. My guess is that he has Town Car, a DeVille DTS or a Mercedes S class.

    Ken
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    According to this older article, that "horizontally gifted" radio announcer "drives" a chauffeured Lincoln Town Car. For more politics and cars, I'd suggest I don't like SUVs, why do you?"" plus there are many to choose from over in the News and Views Board

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • rpirpi Posts: 7
    I am experiencing a klunk noise on the 2-3 shift. The problem is worse when the engine is cold bot never really goes away even when warm. It is a distinctive mechanical thump like metal on metal. It is almost as if the 2-3 gearing is sloppy or loose. The noise also appears when slowing down for a turn and then accellerating up to speed. I hear the klunk when the tranny shifts down to accelerate then again when it shifts from 2-3. Tranny also klunks when shifting from drive to reverse. Dealer says this is normal. Isn't this what they always say? Any insight into this problem would be appreciated. XL is a 2000 1500 with 21,000 miles. It rides on 275/70/16 rubber. Can this cause the tranny problem?
  • cwhit3cwhit3 Posts: 6
    Has anyone read anything about what, if any, changes will be made in the 2002 model? The Car Connection.com says the 6 door feature is not due out until 2003. Thanks.
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