You can also check out the Catch-alls made by Nifty, those atr easy to clean just spray off with hose. I think that they look a little bit nicer. Cheapest website www.cabelas.com or www.autoaccessory.com You can look at them at www.nifty.com
Watch out with Performance Products. If you try to return anything to them they'll hit you for a 15% re-stocking fee and you'll have to pay shipping back to them! I've been quite disappointed with them.
I picked my Yukon XL up just before Easter and My dealer in Alhambra, CA didn't know about the $1,000 coupon from GM for past burban problems. Do you know who I could talk to, to get my $1000.00
I know it sat on the dealer's lot for about two weeks...before we got it.. it doesn't take much butt a few washings with the wrong materials..by the dealer and not by me..
fssrlk - Do you have any photos of your truck with the 20" wheels? Is the truck stock height? I've been contemplating going from the 18" wheels that I have now to 20", but am concerned with the wheel gap at stock height since I have no plans on lowering the truck. My intention is to keep the same rolling diameter, so I will be using 305/45-20 tires.
I'm considering purchasing a 2001 Tahoe. A local dealer is advertising $1500 below invoice on all Tahoes/Suburbans. Questions:
1) Is this likely to be the best deal out there?
2) How are 2001 owners satisfied with their Tahoes? Any particular problems? Have they been fixed?
3) Are owners satisfied with durability & reliability? Does "integrity" of the vehicle (e.g., freedom from squeaks, rattles) hold up after 15K miles or more?
4) Is build quality and fit-and-finish apt to be better or worse at any particular assembly plant(s)? If so, which ones and is there a way of telling (e.g., from the VIN)?
Many thanks for whatever info. people can provide.
>Can anyone tell me what kind of real world fuel economy to expect on a 2001 Suburban 2500 w/8.1L engine? < In town with a 6.0 liter, 3.73 rear and a light foot, I get approx 10 mpg and on a 1200 mile trip, I got 14.89 mpg, therefore with the 8.1, and a 4.10 rear while not towing, I expect one would get approx 9 intown and 13 on the road. [are you buying or did you buy for the gas mileage? :-) ]
Help! Anyone out there aware smart theft can break in your Yukon XL via the On Star system. It happen to my new Yukon XL. I just note it after five minutes parking at down town Dallas, I close the door, the speaker screen fail out and miss one speaker. There was not a scratch on the door or the key lock. No alarm sounded off. I guess my dealer have not set up the On Star code, the theft can use the generic code to break in the Yukon XL. Be ware. If you buy the new car with On Star system, set up your On Star code as soon as you can.
I have an 8.1 with 3.73 and I get approximately 9-10 in town and 11-12 on the freeway. It really does not seem to make a difference on the driving conditions.
I have a 2001 Suburban 1500 LT. It has a squeak that the dealer supposedly fixed but it's still with us. It seems to be more prevelant on the front passengers side and sounds like empty glass bottles with change rattling around in them. It's driving me NUTS! I am going to take it back to have them try to find it again but it seems to only be in town driving under 40-45 mph. Ideas?
I have a 1 month old Lund Trident bug shield 4 sale, it is painted white to match my 01 yukon xl and is in execellent condition. It creates a whistle on my front windshield, other don't have the problem and my dealer can't fix it. If interested e-mail me at bobh@rebarcpa.com
chuckee98 - Sorry no photos of my truck The truck is stock height, it does have autoride, 2 wheel drive. I didn't have any problems with the 305x50Rx20 Momo wheels and Toyo Tires. After going to 3 other locations and being disappointed. We heard about Wheel Warehouse, Anaheim, CA. They had alot to choose from new exactly what would and would not fit on my Yukon XL and I thought the price was right. They brought the wheels out to the vehicle and set them up on blocks to see what they looked like. If I figured right we are about 4% under the original rolling diameter, so I think the 305/45-20 tires will fit (no expert) I still have room to spare.
have seen low-ball prices advertised.. they include $1K Suburban/Tahoe owners Loyalty Rebate coupon and some include Recent College Grad Rebate..... if you don't qualify for them.. no good..
has anyone tried to remove polish like Nu Finish type ( not canauba wax) from the stipled black plastic that GM uses on their trucks... got some on my wife's new Black '01 'bourbon .. have tried just about everything to remove the white residue that I got on the black plastic wheel wells .won't come off ... tried three Chevy dealers and their detailers.. no one can help.. they look at you like no one else has come across this problem over at Chevy or GMC... any help appreciated...
Spoke with my sales rep. today. Front mats are available. Rear cargo mats are available. Still working on 2nd/3rd seat area... I'll have mine Friday...
We have a 2500 4x4 with the 8.1 engine with the 4.10 rear end and we are getting about 9 miles per gal. But we are still in the break in period. Only 400 miles. But it sure had some power.
For anyone experiencing some awkwarkness in closing their liftgate, I have found once I pull it to within 4 to 5 inches of closing, the rear windshield wiper hub makes an excellent push point for the liftgate to shut. By using this method, it will shut completely every time.
I have the same truck, YXL 2500 4 WD 6.0L 3.73 rear end. I am getting around 13.5-14 MPG city, and 16-17 Highway. I live in Michigan and maybe the fact I do not have a lot of hills/mountains to go over helps out on the mileage. Have you used a power programmer on yours? That supposedly will cause a big difference in the fuel economy. Just curious.
I think my low mileage is being caused by bad plugs or a bad plug wire since I have a slight miss or surge while under power such as going up a mountain. I'll get to the bottom of it soon. I have not tried the power programmer. But you know 15 mpg on the road is not bad considering the weight of the vehicle, the fact that my foot is on the floor and I always run the auto climate control with a/c. Is there a hill in MI any place? I spent the summer of '53 working on a dairy farm in Lake Odessa. I think the highest hill I saw was 10 feet. :-)
Mine is a 2001 YXL 2500 SLT, 4WD, Indigo Blue, sunroof, not available w/ auto climate because of sunroof, leather seats w/ full feature front buckets(heated, memory, power recline, power lumbar, power side bolsters) rear audio controls, 2nd row bench, 6.0 L, 3.73:1 locking rear end, HD towing pkg, w/ extra trans cooler and trailer wiring, factory running boards, lift gate, cold climate pkg (block heater, and extra insulation on the fire wall) Off Star, 6900 miles, 13.5 MPG city, 16.5-17 MPG highway.
No really big hills, some rolling land here and there, so no real challenge for the beast's true capabilities. Lots of places to off road, but haven't got the guts to take $38 K worth of truck through the woods and dent it up, or scratch it to hell.
Have you figured your mileage correctly? Did you get the computer re-calibrated to match the tire size? That will for sure knock your figures off.
I also have a slight miss, but only at idle. dealer says it is normal, I say they are nuts. A friend with a 2000 Sierra w/ 6.0 L has no miss or vibration at idle. Never notice it on the road, even when using cruise.
The power programmer, from what I understand, will lower your mileage in order to get the power. It will allow you to re calibrate your tire size yourself, without changing any of the other PCM functions, might also consider removing the speed limiter, just for kicks.
I have heard that simple green will take off the white stuff off of the black trim. Spray it on a rag and it should wipe away. I haven't tried it , so let us know if it works. Carl
Stakeout: Try Castrol Super Clean, it's the strongest cleaner/de-greaser I have ever found on a shelf. Makes Simple-Green a woosey. "Don't leave it on your paint long, it will take the shine off. I plan on washing the next car I paint with it to get the silicons and wax off. Great on cleaning engine compartments.
In regard to rough idle. My '00 Silverado, 1500 5.3 liter, 3.73 rear had a rough idle from day one. Dealer said 'Designed that way', ' they all do that', etc b.s. Check engine soon light came on at 5K, on way to dealer light went out. They kept it overnight and replaced No. 7&8 plugs and applied a TSB. Idles as smooth as silk
My husband and I have owned two used Suburbans ('86 & '89)Now we're ready to take the plunge and buy a new 2001. I Did all the On-line stuff, and I have already received 3 phone calls from eager sales people. All 3 informing me that your base model Burb with a couple of options needs to be ordered...o.k. fine... this I anticipated but am I going to have to pay MSRP? Is it too late in the year for a 2001 Factory Order? I WILL NOT ANSWER MY PHONE UNTIL I'M PROPERLY ARMED.
Whooooooooeeeeeeeeeeee. I have used this stuff to clean storm windows neglected for a couple of years, and have found it without equal for cleaning ability, but on the paint of a new truck, I'd be really careful. Be sure to wear thick rubber gloves and keep it out of your eyes. This stuff really cuts the crud, but it's a very strong product. For most cleaning chores, you won't be dissapointed.
appreciate the quick comebacks..always careful when using new cleaner...thanx guys..
also...I again tried my dealer today.. finally talked to the 'detail-man'.. said to use 3M Adhesive Remover with a stiff toothbrush... no one else in the dealership(s) knew how to do it.. we shall see...
..why in this world would the carmakers use this black stipple plastic trim is beyond me.. must be cheap to buy for them.. it sure is a pain in the butt..
As the market stands right now, you should NOT have to pay MSRP...in fact, when I bought my '01 YXL last November, I didn't pay MSRP then either. On a base YXL you should be able to get one for around $200-500 over INVOICE.
As for being able to order an '01...not a chance and don't let the dealer tell you otherwise, the line are probably shut down (or will be soon) to make the changeover for the '02 model year. I believe the last 2 weeks in June or so is the timeframe for that).
A problem you may run into is a dealer will take an order for an '02 but he won't have the price available. I would not order one until they have the prices (which may not be until the late August / early Sept timeframe.
We just noticed a scuff mark or abrasion on the leather seating surface of the rear bench in our 2001 Suburban LT. At this point it is a roughness with three very fine flaps that feel smooth in one direction and raise up slightly when rubbed in the opposite direction. My concern is that with normal wear and abrasion, this will turn into a more unsightly scuff and eventually a hole. Can anything be done to repair this or protect it from further deterioration? All comments are welcomed.
Looking to replace the factory lights with EAGLITE Xenon bulbs. The high beam 9005 are rated at 100 watt, the lows can be purchased in either a 55 or 80 watt bulb. I have the quad headlight relay so when my high beams are on, the lows will also be on. Will this create to much heat for the factory housing? They sell for 16.95 per set, not the 70 per set that the Piaa I just returned cost. Any body else try these who also has the Quad conversion?
I found the base models to come with the climate control package and 9 passenger seating. I found one with cassette, one with 6 passenger seating, one with traction, trailering.
It is past the ordering deadline (April) so don't buy that.
I just bought a pair of base models. One for $22K, 7K off list, and one for $23K, 6500 off list. Fort Worth and Dallas respectively. This included $1000 loyalty rebate.
I saw that Reliable in Richardson, TX had the one with traction, climate, trailering, 9 passenger a week ago. They had more base models than anyone.
FWIW, the Eaglites are not very good bulbs. They were pulled off the market by a very large auto parts chain in my part of the woods because they're illegal and the stores were getting fined by the insurance companies and the police for selliing them. They do not meet DOT regulations. Look for bulbs that do meet DOT or SAE regulations.
Drew Host Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I recently applied with FlashyAutos.com to have my SUV wrapped with an ad for a monthly cash payment. Has anyone here done that? I think this is pretty cool...FlashyAutos.com basically pays for your car! Let me know what you guys think??
Well I have sent and received at least 6 emails to GM Customer relations and Tech Center plus phone calls, if holding on to a line for 20 minutes listening to sales pitches counts too. All I wanted to know was an answer to two questions: (1) Is it possible for the Dealer to use a Tech 2 to correct my speedometer accurately for an up grade from 245/75/16's to 265/75/16's. If so, why has it not worked after three tries.
(2) If the speedometer can not be set right on, is a 4% error acceptable?
No one at GM can answer or will answer. I have been referred to the Telephone center back to Customer Relations to Tech Center and back to Customer Relations with dealer referrals thrown in. Just answer the two questions! I am contemplating sending the CEO the same questions and ask him what the purpose of On Star, Customer Relations and the Tech Service is beyond supplying purchase information and referring questions to back and forth between the sites. This is really bugging me. Skipjack
Here is a link to some useful info from Pickuptruck.com. Like you, I also upgraded my tires from 245/75/16 to 265/75/16 and investigated getting the computer calibrated. I paid my dealer $38 to do the job but it only calibrated the ABS. This was confirmed to me by the mechanic who did the job.
I have a 94 Suburban LT with 130,000 miles and have loved it. Now looking to buy a 2001 Sub or Yukon XL. Do any of you guys have pros or cons on either model in comparisons from when you bought?
Also any good websites to search to buy a new vehicle as well as dealers in the New England areas to buy from? Anyone used an autobroker to purchase?
We sold our 1993 GMC Suburban LT last year with 165,000 miles (and got $10,000). We looked at both the Chevy and GMC versions of the larger SUV's as a replacement and ended up with the Yukon XL. From what I recall, the Chevy was less expensive largely because you could buy it with less options. The GMC had more robust "packages" and was priced a little higher. By the time you added all the same stuff from Chevy, the Chevy actually came out a little higher. We also noticed the there was a different "cut" to the leather in the GMC, which we liked just a little bit better. As with previous Suburbans, they are undoubtedly built on the exact same line and only get their "names" towards the end. We got a private tour of the Janesville (WI) plant several years ago (interesting story for another day) and to a layperson like us (we had the whole family) we didn't know what the car was going to end up being until they slapped the grill on and added a few "bowties" towards the end. Bottom line, to me anyway, is that either one is a great truck and the differences are too minor to fuss over for the most part. I would add that if you want to go upscale, GMC offers the Denali package whereas Chevy does not offer anything similar. You could also choose the Cadillac Escalade as an option, but I don't believe it is offered in the bigger versions, only the Tahoe/Yukon size.
As to Internet deals vs. local dealers, we tried "Autobytel" and had very little luck with it. Our best bet was to use the figures provided right here at Edmunds.com and use them as negotiating tools with the dealership. We took that one step further and presented them to both Chevy and GMC dealers - and then had them compete with each other for our business! "Gee, I don't know, Dealer X has just offered us this Yukon XL for $1,000 over invoice" When they caved, we would go back to the GMC dealership and say, "Well, this is what the Chevy dealership said they would do on a loaded Suburban." By the time neither would budge we had saved several thousand dollars and were driving off in a new YXL. Car salespeople don't like it, but being a career sales guy myself, I know it is the American way. Also be sure to check on any rebates and factory discounts BEFORE you start negotiating. I hear there is a factory loyalty discount/rebate of $1,000 for previous Suburban owners. Negotiate your best deal and then remind them of the rebate when you have finished. You will get a GREAT deal!
Good luck and ENJOY your upgrade - I know we have!
we leased an '01 Chevy Subn 4wdLT Black on 4/30 ...used the $1000 Current Subn loyalty coupon .. If you own a Subn or tahoe that's all that is required
now there is a $1000 Dealer cash Incentive on Subn and Tahoes.. also Yukons & Yukon XL.. where we live in NC--Chevy's Southeast region.. most other regions have the same.. some dealers are passing this along to customers.. others 'play dumb' and say they never heard of it.. they have..
also there is a GM Lease Incentive for old GMAC Leases that originated before 3/30/99.. turn them in without any penalties.. all remaining payments are waived.. I scanned the GMAC info that I received in the mail at http://www.greengrouper.com/ggserver/ChevyLeaseend.jpg I have an older '99 Subn that falls in this category.. so I'm now looking for another one if I can cut the deals all together... this ends on 7/15/01
tried the Internet 'deals' in the past.. no good for us..
I am interested in purchasing a new Suburban. I am confused about the seat mounted seat belts. I am wondering if they are an annoyance since they lock in place, and in a crash would they stay locked in place. I now drive a 97 Suburban and the belts allow movement in the chest area, is it an annoyance to loose this movement. What were others told was the reason for this change, I am getting different stories from different dealers. I am not sure they are safer that the ones mounted to the steel of the car. Please advise me if you have these and use these, and if they have or have not protected in a crash.
I saw where rhanson3 mentioned a quad headlight relay to make the low beams be on when the high are on. Is this an aftermarket part? Where can I get one? I've got a 2001 Tahoe I'd love to have that setup.
Comments
The mats look pretty good and black is the perfect color for my graphite interior. Is there an online store or chain store where I can get them?
http://www.basspro.com
paid $49.99 for the front set. They have recently went up to $54.99.
also try
http://www.performanceproducts.com
i think they give a discount for buying complete sets (front and rear)
Ryan
www.autoaccessory.com You can look at them at
www.nifty.com
"http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html"
I picked my Yukon XL up just before Easter and My dealer in Alhambra, CA didn't know about the $1,000 coupon from GM for past burban problems. Do you know who I could talk to, to get my $1000.00
http://www.greengrouper.com/ggserver/May01$04a.jpg
Thanks.
1) Is this likely to be the best deal out there?
2) How are 2001 owners satisfied with their Tahoes? Any particular problems? Have they been fixed?
3) Are owners satisfied with durability & reliability? Does "integrity" of the vehicle (e.g., freedom from squeaks, rattles) hold up after 15K miles or more?
4) Is build quality and fit-and-finish apt to be better or worse at any particular assembly plant(s)? If so, which ones and is there a way of telling (e.g., from the VIN)?
Many thanks for whatever info. people can provide.
In town with a 6.0 liter, 3.73 rear and a light foot, I get approx 10 mpg and on a 1200 mile trip, I got 14.89 mpg, therefore with the 8.1, and a 4.10 rear while not towing, I expect one would get approx 9 intown and 13 on the road. [are you buying or did you buy for the gas mileage? :-) ]
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
Front mats are available.
Rear cargo mats are available.
Still working on 2nd/3rd seat area...
I'll have mine Friday...
Try it, you will like it.
('01 Suburban 2500 LT 4WD, Autoclimate, 2nd row captain, 6.0 liter, 3.73 rear, tow package, limited slip, rear audio, 265x70R16 Michelins, Cord lighted running boards, cargo doors) Currently 2600 miles, avg 9.9 mpg town, 14.80 highway
Mine is a 2001 YXL 2500 SLT, 4WD, Indigo Blue, sunroof, not available w/ auto climate because of sunroof, leather seats w/ full feature front buckets(heated, memory, power recline, power lumbar, power side bolsters) rear audio controls, 2nd row bench, 6.0 L, 3.73:1 locking rear end, HD towing pkg, w/ extra trans cooler and trailer wiring, factory running boards, lift gate, cold climate pkg (block heater, and extra insulation on the fire wall) Off Star, 6900 miles, 13.5 MPG city, 16.5-17 MPG highway.
No really big hills, some rolling land here and there, so no real challenge for the beast's true capabilities. Lots of places to off road, but haven't got the guts to take $38 K worth of truck through the woods and dent it up, or scratch it to hell.
Have you figured your mileage correctly? Did you get the computer re-calibrated to match the tire size? That will for sure knock your figures off.
I also have a slight miss, but only at idle. dealer says it is normal, I say they are nuts. A friend with a 2000 Sierra w/ 6.0 L has no miss or vibration at idle. Never notice it on the road, even when using cruise.
The power programmer, from what I understand, will lower your mileage in order to get the power. It will allow you to re calibrate your tire size yourself, without changing any of the other PCM functions, might also consider removing the speed limiter, just for kicks.
I tried it.
I liked it.
Good suggestion.
Mike/DFW
Carl
also...I again tried my dealer today.. finally talked to the 'detail-man'.. said to use 3M Adhesive Remover with a stiff toothbrush... no one else in the dealership(s) knew how to do it.. we shall see...
..why in this world would the carmakers use this black stipple plastic trim is beyond me.. must be cheap to buy for them.. it sure is a pain in the butt..
thanx again..
As for being able to order an '01...not a chance and don't let the dealer tell you otherwise, the line are probably shut down (or will be soon) to make the changeover for the '02 model year. I believe the last 2 weeks in June or so is the timeframe for that).
A problem you may run into is a dealer will take an order for an '02 but he won't have the price available. I would not order one until they have the prices (which may not be until the late August / early Sept timeframe.
Hope that helps.
Campo57
Mike/DFW
It is past the ordering deadline (April) so don't buy that.
I just bought a pair of base models. One for $22K, 7K off list, and one for $23K, 6500 off list. Fort Worth and Dallas respectively. This included $1000 loyalty rebate.
I saw that Reliable in Richardson, TX had the one with traction, climate, trailering, 9 passenger a week ago. They had more base models than anyone.
Hope this helps.
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I recently applied with FlashyAutos.com to have my SUV wrapped with an ad for a monthly cash payment. Has anyone here done that? I think this is pretty cool...FlashyAutos.com basically pays for your car! Let me know what you guys think??
(1) Is it possible for the Dealer to use a Tech 2 to correct my speedometer accurately for an up grade from 245/75/16's to 265/75/16's. If so, why has it not worked after three tries.
(2) If the speedometer can not be set right on, is a 4% error acceptable?
No one at GM can answer or will answer. I have been referred to the Telephone center back to Customer Relations to Tech Center and back to Customer Relations with dealer referrals thrown in. Just answer the two questions! I am contemplating sending the CEO the same questions and ask him what the purpose of On Star, Customer Relations and the Tech Service is beyond supplying purchase information and referring questions to back and forth between the sites. This is really bugging me. Skipjack
Here is a link to some useful info from Pickuptruck.com. Like you, I also upgraded my tires from 245/75/16 to 265/75/16 and investigated getting the computer calibrated. I paid my dealer $38 to do the job but it only calibrated the ABS. This was confirmed to me by the mechanic who did the job.
See this link...
http://forums.pickuptruck.com/Forum11/HTML/004369.html
BlueBurb
Yukon XL. Do any of you guys have pros or cons on either model in comparisons from when you bought?
Also any good websites to search to buy a new vehicle as well as dealers in the New England areas to buy from?
Anyone used an autobroker to purchase?
As to Internet deals vs. local dealers, we tried "Autobytel" and had very little luck with it. Our best bet was to use the figures provided right here at Edmunds.com and use them as negotiating tools with the dealership. We took that one step further and presented them to both Chevy and GMC dealers - and then had them compete with each other for our business! "Gee, I don't know, Dealer X has just offered us this Yukon XL for $1,000 over invoice" When they caved, we would go back to the GMC dealership and say, "Well, this is what the Chevy dealership said they would do on a loaded Suburban." By the time neither would budge we had saved several thousand dollars and were driving off in a new YXL. Car salespeople don't like it, but being a career sales guy myself, I know it is the American way. Also be sure to check on any rebates and factory discounts BEFORE you start negotiating. I hear there is a factory loyalty discount/rebate of $1,000 for previous Suburban owners. Negotiate your best deal and then remind them of the rebate when you have finished. You will get a GREAT deal!
Good luck and ENJOY your upgrade - I know we have!
Chris
we leased an '01 Chevy Subn 4wdLT Black on 4/30 ...used the $1000 Current Subn loyalty coupon .. If you own a Subn or tahoe that's all that is required
now there is a $1000 Dealer cash Incentive on Subn and Tahoes.. also Yukons & Yukon XL.. where we live in NC--Chevy's Southeast region.. most other regions have the same.. some dealers are passing this along to customers.. others 'play dumb' and say they never heard of it.. they have..
also there is a GM Lease Incentive for old GMAC Leases that originated before 3/30/99.. turn them in without any penalties.. all remaining payments are waived.. I scanned the GMAC info that I received in the mail at http://www.greengrouper.com/ggserver/ChevyLeaseend.jpg I have an older '99 Subn that falls in this category.. so I'm now looking for another one if I can cut the deals all together... this ends on 7/15/01
tried the Internet 'deals' in the past.. no good for us..
I have scanned the Loyalty Coupon at this link.. you don't actually need the coupon .. just show the registration to the dealer to get the $1K Loyalty Rebate.. it ends on 6/30/01 http://www.greengrouper.com/ggserver/Chevy1KLoyaltyCoupon.jpg
the $1000 Dealer Cash Incentive link is at http://www2.edmunds.com/servlets/rebate.RebateDetail?subp=17070&make=Chevrolet&model=Suburban&program=Dealer or go to Edmunds and Look up National Rebates and Incentives and plug in your make/model for your State.. this ends on 7/15/01
lock in place, and in a crash would they stay locked in place. I now drive a 97 Suburban and
the belts allow movement in the chest area, is it
an annoyance to loose this movement. What were
others told was the reason for this change, I am
getting different stories from different dealers. I am not sure they are safer that the ones mounted
to the steel of the car. Please advise me if you
have these and use these, and if they have or have
not protected in a crash.