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2014 Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

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Comments

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    vb124

    Your working a good deal/ price so far. Negotiate thru the end of this month then close..
    1000 below invoice nice job .. Try to hold out to the end of the month. Let dealer sit on his offer. you may save a few more dollars by doing so. Overall if you buy at 28,845 and cant go lower on the price you will have made a very good deal..

    Good luck and enjoy your CRV.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    vb124

    So far your working on a good deal at 1000 below dealers invoice. Get as many dealerships involved as far as your willing to travel and make your best/ lowest deal at the end of the month..
    If 28,845 is the best deal at months end you did well..

    Good luck............... enjoy your new CRV

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • stfwaynestfwayne Member Posts: 26
    edited February 2014

    Brian, I emailed all 14 dealerships in Michigan and have only heard back from 4, 2 days later. I know it's only been 2 days but do you think I should call for a quote or wait for them to email me back. It seems strange that only a few would contact me back when sales are so poor in these snowy months. And at the same time I dont want to call anyone to seem desperate after I sent an email already. So far the lowest price I was able to get with all my accessories, fees, taxes included was $29,040 OTD.

  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 16,373

    @stfwayne

    If you read @brian125's posts carefully, his methods depend on timing your purchase during the last 2 - 3 days of the month. It is just the 11th of February. Wait it out. You'll start to hear back from the other dealerships as the month comes closer to the end.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    Vb124,................. above post is worth mentioning again. Always try to get as many dealerships involved as possible

    Dealerships that are still looking to meet factory to dealer incentives, monthly or Quartly sales incentives tend to sell lower right at the end of the month. If a dealership does not need to meet any deadlines then that price you recieved on the 8th or 15th of the month will still be honored at the end. If its not you walk away from that DEALERSHIP.. I have found many great deals from high volume dealers at months end...They will sell alot lower thru the month than the little dealer will. But both will discount with big savings to meet there quoto's.. Catch the right dealership and you will feel like you hit the slot machine at vegas.

    I'm sure alot of you experienced this; you walk into a dealership sit with the salesman you get nowhere with getting a good price out of him. They lie and will tell you how they cant sell any lower cause dealer is losing money etc, etc, Be armed with the right prices so you could knock these guys back into place. A educated informed buyer always has the leverage when buying.. You make every dealership try to earn your business, not the other way around.. . Sales folks today are trained to wear you down and confuse you.. And the classic scene is when a Salesman has to get up to speak with his manager 3 x and you are left sitting there like a monkey while they laugh at you from behind the back wall.. LOL.. 3 hours later of wasting your time. You finally had enough and are leaving.The Salesman chase's you down and throws one more last minute pitch to earn your business. Something he / she should of did 3 hours ago.. Dont be played like this. you deserve better. This happens alot to many folks........... Decide on a target price to buy then start negotiations online via email with 10 or 15 dealerships. Then closing the deal with the internet mgr. on the last days of that month.. Once you have a agreed price then go down to the dealer to wrap up your deal.. So much valuable time saved..

    Sales are down for Honda the past 2 months stock is starting to pile up due to the weather.

    Another big Northeast snow storm comming up the coast . That means another bad week of car sales sending alot of dealerships into the last week to pull off sales numbers... Sounds to me like a buyers month here in the northeast and midwest.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    @stfwayne; said

    Brian, I emailed all 14 dealerships in Michigan and have only heard back from 4, 2 days later. I know it's only been 2 days but do you think I should call for a quote or wait for them to email me.

    YOUR PLAN AND GOAL..... BUY THIS VEHICLE LAST 2 DAYS , LAST DAY THIS MONTH.................. like a game of poker you never tip your hand til the end.

    IF you emailed 14 dealerships with what make, model, and your target price to buy....... then just sit back at let them respond to you. On Feb 26 thru 28th you start up your negotiations if a deal is not struck by then. This time its direct calls to the internet managers.. speak only to him/her for the sale if possible.. If your earlier email did not state............... I buy today at this price RE-send out emails again. Dealers may not repond till they know sales quoto's will not be meet this month.. You are consider a smart shopper so they know you will be holding out til the end.. Be impatient and you show weakness and they will pin you out. Never tip your hand to the very end. You have the leverage by buying like this and will make the best possible deal..

    If your target price is xxx you want each dealership to match or beat that price for the immediate sale that moment. Do this thru the internet manger.. Make him/ her fax you a email with agreed pricing in writing or a faxed bill of sale holding with a credit card deposit... This covers your butt.

    If i email 20 dealers.... 8 may not respond 3 may not want to discuss price online. The rest are the dealerships i try to make my best deal with.. If a couple of the dealerships that are not internet friendly and tell me they will match a price of another dealer i may consider them if they are very close to me otherwise there out.

    Dealers that are not Internet friendly are usually behind the times and more times than not are Bs. Artists.....

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • citizenchicitizenchi Member Posts: 11

    Does anyone think that Presidents Day may be a good day to buy? Does Honda usually have any incentives? I've seen other car manufacturers advertise Prez Day deals (Nissan with $2k bonus cash, for example). Or wait til the end of the month?

  • stfwaynestfwayne Member Posts: 26

    After some haggling the lowest price i was able to get out the door with all the accessories (cargo tray, all weather mats, mud guard set, wheel locks, front hood deflector) on a CRV EX-L AWD was $29,719 from one dealer and $29,919 from another. Im still going to wait till the end of the month but with both dealers telling me this is their bottom line and they wont drop it a penny whether i wait or not how do i approach the negotiation when i go to purchase it at the end of the month?

  • MichaellMichaell Moderator Posts: 240,057

    @stfwayne said:
    After some haggling the lowest price i was able to get out the door with all the accessories (cargo tray, all weather mats, mud guard set, wheel locks, front hood deflector) on a CRV EX-L AWD was $29,719 from one dealer and $29,919 from another. Im still going to wait till the end of the month but with both dealers telling me this is their bottom line and they wont drop it a penny whether i wait or not how do i approach the negotiation when i go to purchase it at the end of the month?

    Can you provide a breakdown of those OTD numbers - selling price, taxes, fees, etc.?

    Also, where do you live? This will help folks who read this discussion get the best possible price on their CRV.

    Thanks!

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  • stfwaynestfwayne Member Posts: 26
    edited February 2014

    Sure thing, Michaell@Edmunds...here is the breakdown:

    2014 CRV EX-L AWD (No Navigation)

    Sale Price of Vehicle: $26,988 + Doc Fee: $224 = $27,212

    6% Sales Tax (State of Michigan) = $1,632.72

    Transfer Plate and Title Fee: $23

    $27,212 + $1,632.72 + $23 = $28,867.72


    Accessories:
    All Season Floor Mats, Cargo Tray, Door Edge Guards

    Hood Air Deflector, Splash Guard Set, Wheel Locks

    Total for Accessories + Installation: $832.80


    Total Out the Door Price with ALL fees, taxes, accessories included:

    $28,867.72 + $832.80 =====> $29,700 (All prices come directly from the e-mailed dealer quote)


    I havent purchased this vehicle yet but here are the prices that I received from the other dealers in the state to give you an idea of what I was going up against: $29,918, $30,451, $30,563, $30,690, $30,903, $31,000, $31,266, $32,098. I emailed the above quote to every single dealer and none could come close except one ($29,918 roughly $220 more than my best offer).

    I plan on waiting till the end of the month (last 2-3 days) to make sure I get the best deal. I may call tomorrow to see if I can put a small deposit to guarantee the price thru the end of February (or should i not do this??) But what do you recommend saying to the dealer in person as I have only haggled over the phone and never met the dealer that gave me the lowest price (I test drove the car at the dealer that offered me the highest price). I plan on asking for the cargo organizer thrown in for free but what else should I ask for or should i just accept $29,700 as the best price available??

    Note: the dealer that offered me the best price is the #1 Honda dealer in terms of cars sold per month so I dont think they are too concerned about not selling enough vehicles since they move the most out of any dealers in the state.

    I apologize for the formatting of this post and thanks again everyone on these forums for your advice and help!

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    @stfwayne said,
    I plan on waiting till the end of the month (last 2-3 days) to make sure I get the best deal. I may call tomorrow to see if I can put a small deposit to guarantee the price thru the end of February (or should i not do this??

    Never give any dealer a deposit.. The only time You leave a deposit is after you and dealer agreed on a sale price and your going to buy vehicle.

    Wait til the end of the month those other dealers will lower there price. If not you buy from dealer#1..

    Buying a car is like a game of poker. dealer has 2 weeks to close you. Let these dealers come back to you. Half will... Every time a higher priced dealer emails or calls, let them know in 2 weeks your buying from dealer #1 unless you could match or beat xxx price. and these accessories are added into the deal at dealers cost.. Not full MSRP.. If any one of those dealers agree before months end you seal the deal..

    Your leverage in this deal is to drill into every other dealer beat my high volume guy or lose my business. By saying give me your best price is where your making the mistake and are classified by dealers............. as the average buyer.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • stfwaynestfwayne Member Posts: 26

    brian125, every higher priced dealer that has followed up with me to see if I am interested I have let them know the best price that I have and told them I would do business with them if they could throw in an extra accessory and beat the price by $100 otherwise I will be going with my final offer of $29,700. Not one dealer has even attempted to beat that price with two or three dealers even getting upset and claiming I was lying and asking to see a quote. I sent the email quote to those dealerships as proof and they responded by saying they could not come close to that price but if i wanted the best service to stop by their dealership. Note: i only asked them for their "best" price in the first set of email negotiations. Since I left my number in the email forms all have called numerous times but none could touch that low number.

    That is why I am so confused. Not one dealer has come close to the price of $29,700. One managed to get it down to $29,919 but told me that even if i waited till the last day of the month or during Presidents day sale (his words not mine) that he couldnt go under $29,900. I told him thank you for his time and hung up.

    So now here I am with the offer of $29,700, I am just going to wait till the end of the month and see what comes up because no one is able to touch that price. I even called two dealerships in Ohio to see what they could do and their lowest number attempt to match my deal was $29,950. I dont know if $29, 700 is some kind of steal but no one has been able to touch that deal with the accessories included since I believe the high volume dealer was basically able to throw them in for much lower cost ($300-400 less) than the other dealers.

    Like I said I am going to wait until the end of the month but how do I approach that high volume dealer that gave me the price of $29,700 when I make the final negotiations. Should I ask for a lower price in the dealership? Should I ask for a bigger accessory than just a cargo organizer (MSRP $78)?

    Thanks
    Shawn

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    You seem to be putting yourself through a LOT over a lousy 100.00 but, hey, it's your money.

    I just hope that 29,700 wasn't a lowball that they won't honor. Some stores will do that if they know they are being shopped all over. Since the other places wouldn't even budge 100.00, I suspect this is probably the case. Good luck!

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    Shawn

    Play out the next 2 weeks and buy at the end of the month..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • stfwaynestfwayne Member Posts: 26

    Ok guys turns out the $29,700 and the $29,919 offers were deceptive by not including the destination fee of ($830). So the best offer is $30,500 and since I got upset they said they would work with me on bringing it down from the original FAKE price of $29,700 to $30,500. Even though the dealership was deceptive they are still the lowest price by $300. And yes $100 does matter because that is the difference between getting an accessory and not getting one so it does make a difference.

  • atlangelatlangel Member Posts: 6

    What is the best price I can expect to get on a 2014 CR-V 2 wheel drive

  • atlangelatlangel Member Posts: 6

    oops, need to more specific. 2014 CR-V LX front wheel drive. What is the best price I can expect to be able to negotiate? and how about on the EX? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

  • atlangelatlangel Member Posts: 6

    I forgot to add that I am in GA. B)

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    @ atlangel said,

    What is the best price I can expect to get on a 2014 CR-V 2 wheel drive.

    Your target price to buy should be between 800 below dealers invoice price on the very low end of the sale to as high as 1700 below invoice price.

    You also need to take in consideration any dealerships high Doc fee' charges. If they are high you need to add them onto your asking price making that charge a wash on the bill of sale .

    example; 2014 CRV, LX fwd model Invoice price = 22,723 plus destanation charge= 830.

    Total ............ $23,553..... So if my tareget price to buy is 1200 below invoice and dealers doc fee charge is 599 my asking price to buy is $ 1799 below invoice price. This price excludes any rebates and incentives that apply to me. You then add your states taxes ,dmv, fee's and dealers doc fee charge onto bill of sale for your out the door pricing..

    Buy at the end of the month to get best pricing from dealerships.

    Good luck.................. brian

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • citizenchicitizenchi Member Posts: 11

    Hi,

    I'm in the Chicago area and have a dealer quoting me the out-the-door price of $27,326 for an EX. The cost of the car is $23,770 and they are adding on $3556 of fees including 9% sales tax ($2140), destination fee = $830, $247 regional ad fees (are these negotiable?) and who knows what else. This is the first price given to me from any dealer so I'm going to start here and work with other dealers. I'd like the OTD price to be $25k. Is that reasonable for my area for an EX? Want to make sure I'm being realistic before starting any more email negotiations and asking them to meet a price point. Any advice would be appreciated and worth a slice of deep dish pizza being sent to you.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    citizenchi,

    There are two ex models , awd and fwd.

    Take your model's invoice price add the dest/ charge of 830 then minus 1000 off that price. thats a good deal.. Sales tax is not negotable but the ad fee is.

    In your area your target price should be between 1000 and 1500 below invoice price plus flex cash of 500 dollars if dealer has to offer for financing thru them..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • citizenchicitizenchi Member Posts: 11

    Thanks brian,

    So if the invoice for the AWD EX is $24690 + 830 - 1000 = $24,520. Then you add about $2250 of sales tax and maybe minus the $270 ad fee and I'm at $26770ish. Maybe I'll shoot for saying I'd like the EX at $26k out the door and see what happens, and wait them out til the end of Feb as the price may come down. I was at the dealership last Saturday to test drive one and the place was empty. This winter has been brutal around here so I'm guessing less people want to checkout cars, so dealers might be hurting a bit. Sound like a decent strate-ger-y?

  • citizenchicitizenchi Member Posts: 11

    @yym2001 said:
    Hi Brian, Thanks a lot for the input! I sealed the deal today. changed my mind in the last minute. decided to go for EXL AWD. I am in Chicago. The dealer was pretty nice and still offered me a 1500 below invoice price (i.e. 26500 including dest.)+tax, etc. It really helps to read the previous posts!

    Hi yym2001, Where in Chicago did you get your CRV? I'm in the Chicago area and am looking. Sounds like a great deal for an EX-L. What was your out the door price?

  • stfwaynestfwayne Member Posts: 26

    @citizenchi said:

    $26,500 is a great price you should definitely grab that EX-L

    Im your next door neighbor in Michigan and no one can touch an EX-L for under $29k out the door

  • jaz6jaz6 Member Posts: 3

    Brian: I'm in the Houston area and the best quote I've received for the EX-L: $25110 + $830 = $25940 + $339 (Wheel Locks,Splash Guards & Cargo Tray) + 182.45 (TL) + Doc fee (125) + $1,673.69 (Taxes) for a total of $28,260 What do you think?

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    jaz6,

    Keep on negotiating til the end of the month you may be able to do better

    EXL fwd or awd??? I'm going to assume FWD model putting you at 890 below invoice. This would be a good deal but dealer is overcharging you on Accessories. Tell dealer you will buy vehicle if he throws in the wheel locks, and splash guards and gives you the other item at dealer cost.

    You could buy those items online alot cheaper at

    Cheap honda parts or college hills honda. Check out pricing for accessories..

    Wheel locks = 36

    Splash guards = 65

    Cargo tray ......... 90.... these prices are as close to dealers invoice as we know.

    I Don't think wheel locks cost the dealer more than 20 dollars?....lol

    If this dealer was about 1200 below invoice on the price of the vehicle i would say buy, But not at 890 below plus overpaying for accessories, and paying the dealers 125 dollar doc fee charge..

    Play out til months end making your best deal out of your contacted dealerships. The more dealerships you get involved the better you will do..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jaz6jaz6 Member Posts: 3

    Brian: Thanks! You're correct, this is the FWD version. I will keep negotiating with the dealer.

    @brian125 said:
    jaz6,

    Keep on negotiating til the end of the month you may be able to do better

    EXL fwd or awd??? I'm going to assume FWD model putting you at 890 below invoice. This would be a good deal but dealer is overcharging you on Accessories. Tell dealer you will buy vehicle if he throws in the wheel locks, and splash guards and gives you the other item at dealer cost.

    You could buy those items online alot cheaper at

    Cheap honda parts or college hills honda. Check out pricing for accessories..

    Wheel locks = 36

    Splash guards = 65

    Cargo tray ......... 90.... these prices are as close to dealers invoice as we know.

    I Don't think wheel locks cost the dealer more than 20 dollars?....lol

    If this dealer was about 1200 below invoice on the price of the vehicle i would say buy, But not at 890 below plus overpaying for accessories, and paying the dealers 125 dollar doc fee charge..

    Play out til months end making your best deal out of your contacted dealerships. The more dealerships you get involved the better you will do..

  • carstudycarstudy Member Posts: 3

    I get the deal for the 2014 CR-V LX AWD OTD 22848.37 include Free door trim guard and wheel lock in great DC area. Is this a good deal?

  • atlangelatlangel Member Posts: 6

    Hi Brian, Thanks for the info on the 2014 2wd CRV LX. I am getting confused trying to figure out the pricing. I am in GA. The current offer I have is $21,755, plus $599 doc fee, plus $95 license fee. Should I be able to negotiate a lower price and if so, how much? Thanks!!

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    Atlangel

    Invoice with dest charge is 22,383 minus your offer 21755= 628 below invoice price minus 599 doc fee charge= 29 dollars below invoice .............. Terrible deal

    your asking price or target price to buy today should be between 800 below invoice to 1700 below depending on your area and supply and demand factor.

    Read my prior post to you about adding dealers doc fee charge onto your asking price..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • sunnysgangsunnysgang Member Posts: 2

    Hi Brian,

    Thank you for the knowledgeable posts. I sure have learnt a lot.

    I am looking into buying a 2014 EX-L FWD in Missouri. The invoice price is $26,000, Destination Fee $830 and the Dealership charges a $199 Administration Fee (which seems to be a standard for dealerships around here). I have gotten an offer for $25,988 (excluding taxes, registration fees, accessories).

    Being that this is an EX-L and thus I am paying premium price - I need to aim for better - I was considering setting a target price for around 25,500 but wanted your sage advice on the matter.

    Also should I send them a counter-offer via email or would it better to visit and negotiate?

    Thanks.

  • carstudycarstudy Member Posts: 3

    Hi, Brian,

    the deal $22848 OTD for CRV LX AWD 2014 is good deal or not? Can you input your comment.

    Thanks.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    sunnygangs,

    This post applies to all buyers this month. Do what i'm saying and you will get a better price. Try to hold out and Start negotiations after the 24th of this month wrapping up your deal the last 2 days, last day of this month.. Unless a dealership agree's to your target price to buy before the 28th..

    Here's how i look at your deal and all Car deals I do. Your at 842 below dealers invoice. Thats not to bad as far as price. Now take dealers admin fee or doc fee charge of 199 and your deal is now 643 below invoice. still not bad but there most likely is more room to save a few more dollars....... You need to try.

    And here is how you should go about it ..

    Depending on your area, supply and demand, how many dealerships are around you, and knowing when and how to buy will help you recieve the best price. pricing will vary. You may save a couple of hundred or more It all depends on how good you play the game.. Buying a car is like a game of poker who is going to blink first ..Never show your hand til the END.......... If your a good negotiator you could see as high as 1700 below invoice plus the flex cash incentive of 500 dollars... Your Area along with supply and demand play a part in pricing......along with how good you play the game and by bringing in as many dealerships your willing to travel to. hoping that by months end dealerships are still looking to meet there sales incentives. Thats when dealers will let vehicles go alot cheaper than in the begining and middle of the month. Always wait til months end to buy/ lease..

    First send out as many emails to all dealerships Internet dept. addressed to the internet managers. If there are only 5 or 10 in your area that your willing to travel to then send 5 or 10. These are the dealership you try to make your best deal with.. Try to find and email high volume dealerships near you.... they sell cars cheaper than the little guy.

    Each email you should state to the mgrs. I am looking to buy...... x model , color , and any accessories you want on vehicle . If you agree to sell me this vehicle for 1200 below invoice or xxx price I will buy from you today. If you would like i can leave a deposit by credit card til my model is ready to be picked up. I plan on buying this vehicle by months end. I have contacted several area dealerships and out of area dealerships. I would prefer to buy closer to my house but if my price is meet further away i will except a deal today..

    Any email to this effect will be very effective and get the job done.. If you feel you want a lower target price that is fine also. Let this email sit for days if need be with dealerships. When they respond with a higher price tell them my price wraps it up today yes or no..1st dealership that agrees gets my money.... play the game never give in til the last days... by then dealers cave in trust me.. Unless your price is really out of the realm.. At 1200 below for mississippi thats not going for the big numbers..... At worst case maybe you settle on 1000 below invoice price but let the whole month play out before you lower your price.. Let these dealer chase you .

    I'm not fimiliar with your states doc fee/ admin charges.. Make sure every dealer has the same price or adjust your asking price to compensate that charge.

    Dealerships that have flex cash if you finance thru them of $500 is added to your deal after the agreed price.............. and not before.. Remember Flex cash is a Incentive given to you by the Honda corp for financing thru them. Its not to be used/ applied by dealer as part of your asking price to buy....its added after agreed sale price..

    If you want to drive from dealer to dealer before months end you will be wasting your time. wait til the last, 2 days to do that sick scene...

    Limited dealerships in small towns and area's means dealers have the price leverage.

    At months end if you have not struck a better deal pick the closest dealerships and go in to negotiate.... prepare yourself for alot of dealership games and lies. make your best deal with closest dealership. All dealerships that are not internet friendly remove off your buying list,

    Any dealers that tell you to come down for pricing/ wont deal on line that are within a quick drive from your home save til the very end of the month.. Its always best to negotiate online first then go to dealership when pricing and deal has been agreed upon..

    Hope this helps you boys and girls.......................... good luck

    Brian

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    carstudy

    Sorry but i'm not a mind reader. your post left out the most important info to breaking down your deal.

    Please post i'd be glad to help..

    1- Agreed sale price

    2- Is the destanation charge included in this price.

    3- dealers doc fee charges.

    4- does your model have any added accessories to it.

    5 any other otd charges you did not disclose.

    Every state has a different tax rate, some states have no tax. every states dealerships have different dmv, and doc fee charges .

    The only persons that would want your OTD price would be someone in your own buying state which you did not post. Otherwise agreed sale price, and dealers doc fee charges are the most important to know..

    Also if you could post the dealership and state you purchased at.. This helps other forum members decide if its worth a shot at the dealership you bought at..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • atlangelatlangel Member Posts: 6

    Hi Brian, Thanks for the additional info. I just get a little confused with add this amount and subtract that amount. I hate to sound dumb but it is hard for me to figure out what you are trying to tell me. So referring back to my last question and your response, it sounds like you are saying I should be able to offer $20,000 and I pay the ad valorem for the 2014 fwd CRV LX in GA, And this amount would be all inclusive. Is that correct or is that going too low? I am just trying to figure out what would be a good counteroffer to make.
    Also I read that the 2015 would have some exterior and interior changes, so I was wondering if I should hold out for the 2015 model. I can't really find any info on what colors will be offered.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    Atlangel,

    I dont think honda will do anything but very minor touch ups on the new 2013 accord. Usually a 4 yr run before they change . Re read my above post about emailing dealerships.

    If your area dealerships all charge 599 for a doc fee or ad fee charge you need to counter that charge. you do this by lowering your asking price/ target price to buy. This makes it a wash on the bill of sale.. In G.A. a good price to buy may be 1200 below invoice, so counter the doc fee charge by adding 600 onto the asking price.

    Invoice w dest/charge for your model= $22,383

    minus your offer to buy.......................- 1800..... 1200 below plus 600 to counter doc fee's.

    Total offer............................................20,583....... to buy before taxes

    The above price would exclude taxes, doc fee charge and dmv charges making the total OTD price complete. If dealership has flex cash that would be another 500 off your agreed sale price of $20,583. flex cash is a incentive by the honda corp to finance thru them.

    To answer you last question? do i think you could get vehicle for 20k.. You might but it depends on how good you can negotiate and play the game. read my post to sunny it would apply to you also..

    I have been buying new cars for 40 yrs with over 1000 vehicles bought for family, friends, and friends of friends. The only way to get top below dollar pricing is to know how and when to buy/ piting one dealer against the next and play by the same dirty rules they play by.. Supply and demand and your area play a part in price. Dealerships in MD are selling alot cheaper than in your area. thats where you might need to buy if your looking to close a deal 2k below invoice. I think 1200 to 1500 below your price of 22,383. may be do-able at months end in your state. You need to get about 10 to 15 dealerships involved if possible.. Your one deal and quote is 29 dollars below invoice price..

    Maryland dealers that are selling alot cheaper the in G.A.

    Criswell, Sport, Pohanka, O"Donnel, Norris... email for pricing if you want to travel out of state.

    good luck............ post your deal when your done..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • budgetbuyerbudgetbuyer Member Posts: 15

    Ok I realised that I had posted at a different place on Feb., 8th and therefore re-posting my message here

    Hello Brian,

    Thanks for your reply Brian :)

    We bought our CRV AWD 2014 today, the msrp sticker price was $25,025. incl. destination.

    We paid 23,832.15 O.T.D (used college grad and flex cash discounts). We transferred our old plates. There was no trade in car involved. We live in Michigan

    Our dealer charged $200 doc. fees and would not budge on it because he said that we were already getting enough discounts.

    There were no additional features installed by the dealer on the crv.

    Final figures are:

    Selling Price = 23,180.86, +Taxable fees 24.00, +Doc Fee 200.00, +Tax 1,404.29,

    +Non Tax Fees 23.00

    Total Balance before discounts = 24,832.15

    Less: 500 (Graduation Disc.),

    Less 500 (Flex Cash)

    Final figure 23,832.15
    Dealer said he had to charge tax on whole amount, before deducting the flex cash and grad disc.

    We got Honda Financing of 1.9 % for 5 years.

    We declined any additional warranties, as we did not have good experience with it in the past.

    I do understand that I could have gotten a better deal at the end of the month, but needed a car bad, and could not wait that long.

    Thanks for all the tips you and the rest kept giving on this forum again and again. I hope the information I have provided will similarly help others too

    Best Regards

    BudgetBuyer

  • stfwaynestfwayne Member Posts: 26

    @budgetbuyer...
    What model CRV did you purchase and from what dealer in Michigan?

    I contacted all 14 dealers in the state in my search to purchase a 2014 CRV EXL AWD with splash guards, hood deflector, door guards, wheel locks, mats, cargo tray and organizer.

    My best offer right now is between 29,700 from a dealer that is not being up front with pricing in email (neglected to mention any destination fee in final out the door price) and another dealer that has advised me to wait till March 1 for his flex cash to be available since apparently his dealership is out of Flex Cash for February. The second dealer offered me a price of $30,500 with $500 flex cash so basically 30K out the door.

    What was your experience with your dealership, who did you deal with specifically, and more importantly how do you like your new ride??

  • shwsshws Member Posts: 1

    Hi,

    Iam in South Florida(Deerfield Beach) and looking for Honda CRV EX-L,FWD.My target price is 28000(with new tag and title) out of the door.Best deal I have got so far is 28500(with just wheel lock accessory).Please let me know,what is the best price in this area.

    Best Regards,
    Shwr

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    shws

    The best price in your area if nobody responds is; The best price you could Negotiate.. Use the email tips to dealers making your best deal at months end. Target price 800 to 1700 below dealers invoice. Compensate your states high doc fee charges also like noted .

    good luck............. post your deal when done.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • pdev670pdev670 Member Posts: 9

    Folks,

    I am looking for a Honda CRV LX AWD in New Jersey. Anybody who has bought recently and can share some details that would be great. Thx in advance

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    Try these dealerships in New jersey. , Auto-Sport, Hamiliton, DCh paramus, Paul miller.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • _bryan_bryan Member Posts: 8
    edited February 2014

    I just bought a new CRV LX FWD with accessories (mud flaps, cargo liner, wheel locks, nitrogen in tires). They offered me 200 less for a car on site, but my wife wanted a color they didn't have. Purchased in upstate SC.

    Final Price was $22,000 out the door.

    I felt like I could have gotten a little lower price, but they worked well with me and I had another dealer that was extremely arrogant and rude.

  • _bryan_bryan Member Posts: 8
    edited February 2014

    One more note (this may be helpful). We bought a 2013 CRV EX-L FWD (no nav or dvd) in July 2013. Purchased in upstate SC.

    Final Price was $25,500 out the door.

    At that time, Honda had a $1,000 incentive for buyers who had bought from a competitor in the last 5 years. That helped us.

  • llbean2009llbean2009 Member Posts: 23

    Purchased a 2014 CRV EX-L FWD (no nav or dvd) this evening in Los Angeles, $26100 (sticker $28525)

  • jaxbilljaxbill Member Posts: 2

    Looking for a new 2013 or 2014 CR-V EX-L (no NAV) and I have emailed the dealerships in my area. Getting the run around from Hendricks Honda in Daytona. At first they responded with an offer 27,682 OTD with 25400 price, no charge for accessories (cargo mat, nitrogen tires, wheel locks. splash guards) 699 dealer fee 168 title fee and sales tax. But the sales tax didn't add up to my county (Duval), it was off by around 100 bucks. I replied back asking if they can confirm the quote with my county sales tax.
    The sales manager responded back saying that the salesman used New Mexico sales tax and and the new OTD was roughly a thousand dollars higher at 28705. I immediately called BS and asked for an itemized quote. Still waiting on response.

  • jaxbilljaxbill Member Posts: 2

    Oh and I'm looking for the 2WD and told them any color but black or white.

  • dan49dan49 Member Posts: 7

    Good Morning,
    I am looking for a 2014 honda cr-v awd ex or exl in the the greater Boston area.Anybody who may have bought recently and would like to share their price paid, and good experiences with dealers would help.Also have not been able to read all the past posts but how can you find out the invoice price.Thx in advance
    Dano

  • pdev670pdev670 Member Posts: 9

    I contacted around 10 dealers from Tri-state area online. Although most claim to have a Internet sales process in place. Some are not forth coming about the price and most are not offering any discounts. The best deal I got so far is as below:

    • Invoice price 22724
    • Offering price 21795
    • destination charge 830
    • Sub-total 22625
    • Tire Fee 7.5
    • documentation 299
    • Tax 7 % 1583.75
    • DMV 296
    • online registration 7.7
    • Out of the Door 24811.25

    This surely doesn't look like a deal at all to me. Kindly offer your two cents

  • pdev670pdev670 Member Posts: 9

    Forgot to mention. this is for a 2014 AWD CRV LX

This discussion has been closed.