Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Does anyone know if this is caused by the engine mounts not being synched to the engine vibration modes?
Does it get better as the engine mounts age?
Many thanks for any leads.
Happy 4th and God Bless America!
I do most maint my self but this truck is not new
and frankly I'm a bit scared to take it on a LONG trip such as this.
Any advice would be helpfull
thanks
I am trading in my 1999 LT. It has been a great car. Will be kind of sad to turn it in!! I am also getting the factory installed drop down DVD. Is there any benefits to installing a system after factory.
Thanks for any information. I have already learned so much on this message board since I found it last night!!!
palsaus: Invoice price minus those rebates is very good, BUT YOU should be getting the benefit of the $695 OnStar Rebate, not the dealer. Also, depending on the value of your trade-in, you probably are better off taking the 0% 5-year financing instead of $3,000 rebate (our trade was $17,000 and I know that 0% saved more than $3,000). Also, I would definitely recommend the factory RSE DVD - it works beautifully and is very nicely integrated into the vehicle and the sound system. Aftermarket systems almost all use FM modulation to play sound through the car stereo (we had this in our Expedition - not as nice), do not look as nice, and give you a 1-year warranty instead of the factory 3-year/36K warranty. The only benefit to aftermarket in my mind would be the ability to install the player itself in the dash - which if you have small children (who aren't old enough to operate the player in the back seat) would be extremely helpful.
When we bought my wife's car, they had already ethced in the Lojack? numbers on the window before I even knew what it was!
Nothing I can do to make it happen.
I hate to have to bring it in so soon. Has anyone else heard something like this?
I bought the YXL today. SLE with towing, buckets, sunroof, adj. pedals, premium sound.
It was 9,578.00 off sticker. Doesn't have OnStar so I wasn't eligible for that rebate.
It's Carbon/Grey. I love it, and no running boards, hurray!
I've wangle a deal for 03 LT w/DVD, trailering, cargo pkg, liftgate, skid plates & lock diff.
MSRP=46584; Inv=40659. The dealer's offer (w/discounts--$3500 cash, $750 mil, $695 OnStar, $500 Conquest)= $38,096.
After doing my math and figuring his invoice minus holdback, I'm going to offer $36,900.
Am I on the right path or too stingy?
God Bless America!
what is the GM card cash? I applaud your ability to get $8100 below invoice...with all of the stuff I know (discounts, holdback, bogus fees), i can only legitimately get down to $4500 below invoice!
Let's hear your tips!!
I thought for sure this had something to do with the child lock feature, and or the preferences in the Driver Info Center, but I can't figure anything out.
I hate to put it in the shop already. Has anybody else had this problem?
Thanks
Also, replace the rear diff fluid with a good synth fluid.
Happy Camper Hunting
GM card cash is cash earned towards purchase of a new GM vehicle. Five percent of charges from a GM Mastercard are added to this account. In may case, I could earn up to $500 per year for a max of seven years. You keep earning past 7 years but only last seven years count up to $3500. I had $3150 in my account plus a $200 promotion that I used. Few years ago GM changed the rules to remove the $500 per year cap, however imposed total maximums depending on vehicle. I opted to stay with old rules. That's best I can remember. See gmcard.com for more details.
2.In the "Instrument Panel Fuse Block" there is a
Rear Door Lock Relay and a rear door unlock relay.
Switch them to see if your trouble clears. Be gentle and see if
those relays just plug in. I think they do.
3.There is a "Door Lock Actuator" which may have
gone south. They do show up on the wiring
diagram as having a circuit breaker which could
also be defective.
1.There is a 20 amp fuse for locks in the I.P. fuse panel but if this
were blown both functions would be dead. If you can`t lock and can`t unlock this should be your trouble, unless you have bad wiring or connectors. With trucks there are chances for several things to cause a end trouble. Hope this helps.
There are two Yellow 20 Amp fuses located side by side in your Instrument Panel Fuse Block. The "DOOR LOCK" fuse is the one closest to the outside edge of your fuse block. Just about all auto parts stores will have these fuses in stock but there may well be a spare in your fuse block. Just check the diagram on your fuse block cover.
The "Instrument Panel Fuse Block" is located near the drivers door at the left hand edge of your Instrument Panel. You will notice a mark at the bottom forward edge of the panel where light outward finger pressure will cause the panel to pull off.
Hope this helps. Please advise.
Both are fine vehicles and drive fantastic. But I was surprised about the mileage I got. On a full tank, Yukon XL had burned 1/4 of the tank for about 100 mile Hwy + City driving. DXL seemed little better for the same type of driving - a little over 1/8th of the tank.
But I got the best mileage on my old Tahoe - less than 1/8th of the tank. My 96 Tahoe consistenly gives 18 miles/gallon on City+Hwy driving, and since the last tune-up, I think I am close to 20 mpg.
I realize that the size of tank has a lot to do with how far the guage moves. I am deciding whether to buy a DXL or YXL. Does any one know more realistic mileage difference between the two? It seems that YXL w/ 5.3 should do better than a 6.0L DXL, plus the weight difference in favor of YXL.
glsable
With only the $3000 and $500 conquest rebates I paid $37,400 for an LT that stickered at $48,400.
squadman: I think you should be able to beat my deal by another $1945 with the new rebates! Good luck!
It would have been interesting to set the "personal" or "business" trip computer to record your test drive on each vehicle. That way you would have not only had the fuel gauge reading but the miles driven, average mileage, average speed, and gallons used.
I think the EPA numbers for the Tahoe are about 1 mpg better than the Suburban, but I don't know how much of that is weight and how much is the 4.8 vs. the 5.3.
Deletions
Exterior color Light Pewter Metallic (11U)
Exterior color Indigo Blue Metallic (39U)
Exterior color Redfire Metallic (72U)
Front passenger door lock cylinder
(PF4) 16" machined aluminum wheels
(NG1) Emissions, NY or VT state requirements
New Features
Right front passenger seat belt reminder
Tire pressure monitor (UJ6) on 1/2 ton models
Exterior color Dark Blue Metallic (25U)
Exterior color Silver Birch Metallic (59U)
Exterior color Sport Red Metallic (63U)
16" Cast aluminum wheels (PF9)
17" 5-spoke aluminum wheels (P25), includes 16"
steel blackwall spare
17" All-season, blackwall tires (QAN)
P265/70R17
17" All-season, white outlined-letter tires
(QAS) P265/70R17
Hydroboost brakes on 1/2 ton models
Changes
1SJ Equipment Group Changes: (A95) Cloth buckets seats and (PDH) Driver Convenience Package are not available.
1SK Equipment Group Changes: (AL4) 2nd row bucket seats are not available. (UC6) 6-disc CD changer changed from standard to available. (UB1) CD and cassette is the standard radio.
1SL Equipment Group Changes: (PDQ) Personal Security Package has been deleted. (UE1) OnStar is standard.
1SM Equipment Group Changes: (PDC) Cargo Package, (PDH) Driver Convenience Package, (U2K) XM satellite radio and (Z82) Heavy-duty trailering equipment are standard.
Traction assist (NW7) includes Heavy-duty locking rear differential (G80), except with 4-wheel steering (NYS) which requires Heavy-duty limited slip rear differential (G86)
(NE1) Emissions now include Massachusetts, Maine, New York or Vermont state requirements
(PDZ) Heavy-duty trailering equipment now identified as RPO (Z82)
Does anybody have a new 2500? And what will i notice that is different from my Denali? As i said, I am getting most of the goodies, suspension, 6 cd changer, etc. My major concern is that the ride may not be as smooth as the Denali XL.
Any input would be appreciated,
Thanks
like to know what dealer is giving that much off??...
Unless a "really" good deal can be made for a 2003, it might be wise to wait for the 04's
What is the opinion of the group?
larry91: I think the answer to your question depends on how long you are willing to wait. If you want to buy in the next several months, I would definitely go for an '03 and take advantage of all the incentives/rebates and 0% financing, which are not being offered on the '04s as of yet and no guarantee they will be offered in the near future. Also, there are no material differences whatsoever between the '03s and the '04s, so no real reason to hold off. The only exception is the ability to get both the RSE DVD and the Sunroof together, which you can't get on an '03 (you have to choose one or the other).
I could be wrong in my analysis... anyone else want to jump in on this?
There will be a ride difference between the DXL and 2500. Try both and seehow much. Make sure the 2500 has autoride and 4 wheel steering (if you want it) and check the tire pressures furst.
CMUF-09360615, SERVICE # 16263494 WHITE
86CMUF3491462EUL BLACK
CMUF-2531527 (308587)
thank you.
If I'm not mistaken the engine breakdown goes like this.
Sub/YXL 1500 - 4.8 or 5.3 liter
Denali and XL - 6.0 liter
Sub/YXL 2500 - 8.1 liter
The 8.1 liter engine IS NOT available with the Quadrasteer. I would think that is the combo it was designed to be used with, towing???
Also the standard Suburban wheel will be the 5-spoke cast aluminum wheel from the Avalanche (and that is optional on the Silverado).
The GM Online Ordering site now has pictures of the new colors (silver birch, new red, new blue) and the wheels
errerr: thanks for the website address!
(see his earlier post)
You could also get the $10k off the base LS models too, which theoretically is a better deal.
I have a 2001 Denali XL with 32000 miles, and am thinking of letting my daughter have that vehicle( that's her suggestion, not mine) and getting an XL 2500 with all the goodies. The more i think about it tho the LESS I like the idea. Sooooo, I will probably just stick with the Denali, which I really enjoy driving, tho the 8.1 liter engine has a lot of appeal to me. Think I will take a cold shower and let it pass. The depreciation on that type of vehicle is Staggering. Of course, all these GM incentives don't help keep the value up either.